AMP  LIFE 


AND 


RICKS  OF 

RAPPING 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/deta.ils/camplifeinwoodstOOgibsrich 


THE  LIBRARY 
OF  > 
THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 

MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


CAMP  LIFE  IN  THE  WOODS 

AND  THE 

TRICKS    OF   TRAPPING 

AND 

TRAP   MAKING 


CONTAINING 

COMPREHENSIVE  HINTS  ON  CAMP  SHELTER,  LOG  HUTS,  BARK  SHANTIES,  WOODLAND 
BEDS    AND    BEDDING,   BOAT    AND    CANOE    BUILDING,   AND    VALUABLE    SUGGES- 
TIONS ON   TRAPPERS*  FOOD,  ETC.      WITH   EXTENDED  CHAPTERS  ON   THE 
trapper's  ART,  CONTAINING  ALL  THE  '*  TRICKS "  AND  VALUABLE 
BAIT    RECIPES    OF    THE    PROFESSION  ;     FULL    DIRECTIONS    FOR 
THE  USE  OF  THE  STEEL  TRAP,  AND  FOR  THE  CONSTRUC- 
TION OF  TRAPS  OF  ALL  KINDS;   DETAILED  INSTRUC- 
TIONS FOR  THE  CAPTURE  OF  ALL  FUR-BEARING 
animals;    VALUABLE   RECIPES   FOR   THE 
CURING  AND  TANNING  OF  FUR  SKINS, 
ETC.,  ETC. 


BY 

W.    HAMILTON    GIBSON 

AUTHOR  OF   **  PASTORAL  DAYS " 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  THE  AUTHOR 


NEW    YORK 
HARPER    &    BROTHERS,    FRANKLIN    SQUARE 

(^Stereotyped  by  John  W-  Lovell) 


lf^( 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1881,  by 

W.  HAMILTON   GIBSON, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 

All  rights  reserved. 


TO 
MY   BELOVED    FRIENDS, 

MR.     AND    MRS.   F.    W.    GUNN, 

KIND     INSTRUCTORS,    AND     PARTICIPANTS 

IN   THE 

BRIGHTEST  JOYS   OF   MY  YOUTH, 

THIS   BOOK   IS 

AFFECTIONATELY     DEDICATED    BY 

€l)e  5lutl)0r. 


V\3\Z^(^8 


F  all  the  various  subjects  in  the  catalogue  of 
sports  and  pastimes,  there  is  none  more  sure 
of  arousing  the  enthusiasm  of  our  American 
boys  generally,  than  that  which  forms  the  title 
of  this  book.  Traps  and  Trapping,  together 
I  with  its  kindred  branches,  always  have  been 
and  always  will  be  subjects  of  great  interest 
among  boys,  and  particularly  so  to  those  who 
live  in  the  country. 
It  is  a  fact  to  be  regretted  that  we  have  so  few  examples  of 
"  Boys'  Books  "  pubhshed  in  this  country.  There  are  a  few 
English  works  of  this  character,  that  are  very  excellent  as  far 
as  they  go,  but  are  nevertheless  incomplete  and  unsatisfactory 
to  the  wants  of  American  boys,  dwelling  largely  on  sports  which 
are  essentially  English,  and  merely  touching  upon  or  utterly 
excluding  othe7'  topics  which  are  of  the  utmost  interest  to  boys 
of  this  country.  In  no  one  of  these  books,  so  far  as  the  author 
of  the  present  volume  knows,  is  the  subject  of  Traps  consider- 
ed to  any  fair  extent,  and  those  examples  which  are  given, 
represent  only  the  most  common  and  universal  varieties  already 
known  to  the  general  public. 


M3it;3(jy 


4  PREFACE. 

With  these  facts  in  mind,  the  author  has  entered  with  zeal- 
ous enthusiasm  upon  the  preparation  of  a  work  which  shall  fill 
this  odd  and  neglected  corner  in  literature,  and  judging  from 
the  reminiscences  of  his  own  boyish  experiences,  he  feels  cer- 
tain that  in  placing  such  a  volume  within  reach  of  the  pubHc, 
he  supplies  a  long  felt  want  in  the  hearts  of  his  boy-friends 
throughout  the  land. 

Far  be  it  from  us  in  the  publication  of  this  volume,  to  be  un- 
derstood as  encouraging  the  wanton  destruction  of  poor  inno- 
cent animals.  Like  all  kindred  sports,  hunting  and  fishing  for 
example,  the  sport  of  Trapping  maybe  perverted  and  carried  to  a 
point  where  it  becomes  simple  cruelty,  as  is  always  the  case  when 
pursued  for  the  mere  exciteine^it  it  brings.  If  the  poor  victims 
are  to  serve  no  use  after  their  capture,  either  as  food,  or  in  the 
furnishing  of  their  plumage  or  skins  for  useful  purposes,  the 
sport  becomes  heartless  cruelty,  and  we  do  not  wish  to  be  un- 
derstood as  encouraging  it  under  any  such  circumstances.  In 
its  right  sense  trapping  is  a  delightful,  healthful,  and  legiti- 
mate sport,  and  we  commend  it  to  all  our  boy-readers. 

It  shall  be  the  object  of  the  author  to  produce  a  thoroughly 
Practical  volume,  presenting  as  far  as  possible  such  examples 
of  the  trap  kind  as  any  boy,  with  a  moderate  degree  of  ingenui- 
ty, could  easily  construct,  and  furthermore  to  illustrate  each 
variety  with  the  utmost  plainness,  supplemented  with  the  most 
detailed  description. 

With  the  exception  of  all  "  clap-trap,"  our  volume  will  em- 
brace nearly  every  known  example  of  the  various  devices  used 
for  the  capture  of  Bird,  Beast,  or  Fowl,  in  all  countries,  simpli- 
fying such  as  are  impracticable  on  account  of  their  complicated 
structure,  and  modifying  others  to  the  j)eculiar  adaptation  of 
the  American  Trapper. 

Devices,  which  inflict  cruelty  and  prolonged  suffering,  shall, 
as  far  as  possible,  be  excluded,  as  this  is  not  a  necessary  quali- 
fxation  in  any  trap,  and  should  be  guarded  against  wherever 
possible.     Following  out  the  suggestion  conveyed  under  the 


PREFACE.  5 

title  of  "  The  Trapper,"  we  shall  present  full  and  ample  direc- 
tions for  baiting  traps,  selections  of  ground  for  setting,  and 
other  hints  concerning  the  trapping  of  all  our  principal  game 
and  wild  animals,  valuable  either  as  food  or  for  their  fur.  In 
short,  our  book  shall  form  a  complete  trapper's  guide,  embrac- 
ing all  necessary  information  on  the  subject,  anticipating  every 
want,  and  furnishing  the  most  complete  and  fully  illustrated 
volume  on  this  subject  ever  presented  to  the  public.  In  vain 
did  the  author  of  this  v/ork,  in  his  younger  days,  search  the 
book  stores  and  hbraries  in  the  hopes  of  finding  such  a  book, 
and  many  are  the  traps  and  snares  which  necessity  forced  him 
to  invent  and  construct  for  himself,  for  want  of  just  such  a  vol- 
ume. Several  of  these  original  inventions  will  appear  in  the 
present  work  for  the  first  time  in  book  form,  and  the  author  can 
vouch  for  their  excellence,  and  he  might  almost  say,  their  infalli- 
biHty,  for  in  their  perfect  state  he  has  never  yet  found  them  to 
"miss  "  in  a  single  instance. 

As  the  writer's  mind  wanders  back  to  his  boyish  days,  there 
is  one  autumn  in  particular  which  shines  out  above  all  the  rest ; 
and  that  was  when  his  traps  were  first  set  and  were  the  chief 
source  of  his  enjoyment.  The  adventurous  excitement  which 
sped  him  on  in  those  daily  tramps  through  the  woods,  and  the 
buoyant,  exhilarating  effect  of  the  exercise  can  be  realized  only 
by  those  who  have  had  the  same  experience.  The  hope  of  suc- 
cess, the  fears  of  disappointment,  the  continual  suspense  and 
wonder  which  fill  the  mind  of  the  young  trapper,  all  combine  to 
invest  this  sport  with  a  charm  known  to  no  other.  Trapping 
does  not  consist  merely  in  the  manufacture  and  setting  of  the 
various  traps.  The  study  of  the  habits  and  peculiarities  of  the 
different  game — here  becomes  a  matter  of  great  importance ; 
and  the  study  of  natural  history  under  these  circumstances 
affords  a  continual  source  of  pleasure  and  profit. 

Among  the  most  useful,  although  the  most  cruel,  of  inven- 
tions used  by  the  professional  trapper  are  the  steel  traps  ;  so 
much  so  that  the  author  would  gladly  omit  them.     But  as  they 


6  PREFACE. 

are  of  such  unfailing  action,  of  such  universal  efficacy,  and  in 
many  cases  are  the  only  ones  that  can  be  used,  any  book  on 
trapping  would  certainly  be  incomplete  without  them.  The 
scope  of  our  volume  not  only  embraces  the  arts  of  trapping  and 
trap-making,  but  extends  further  into  the  subject  of  the  wild 
life  of  a  trapping  campaign, — containing  full  directions  for  build- 
ing log  cabins,  and  shanties  ;  boats  and  canoes;  hints  on  food 
and  cooking  utensils  ;  also  full  directions  for  the  curing  and 
tanning  of  fur  skins, — in  short,  a  complete  repository  of  all  use- 
ful information  pertaining  to  the  life  and  wants  of  a  professional 
trapper. 

In  the  preparation  of  the  work  no  pains  have  been  spared  to 
insure  clearness  in  general  directions,  and  every  point  which 
would  be  likely  to  puzzle  the  reader  has  been  specially  covered 
by  separate  illustration.  In  this  particular  it  stands  unique  in 
the  list  of  boys'  books.  Every  difficulty  has  been  anticipated, 
and  in  every  instance  the  illustrations  will  be  found  thoroughly 
comprehensive  and  complete.  That  the  care  and  thoroughness 
which  has  been  displayed  throughout  the  work,  and  to  which 
its  pages  will  bear  witness,  may  meet  with  the  appreciation  and 
enthusiastic  approval  of  every  boy-reader  throughout  the  land, 
is  the  most  earnest  hope  of 

The  Author. 


^i?-*;,^-  '-• 


BOOK  I. 


TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 

Introduction.— The  Dead  Fall.— Honey  as  Bait  for  Bears.— The  Gun  Trap.— Pe- 
culiar Habits  of  the  Puma. — "  Baiting"  for  the  Puma.— Caution  required  in  Set- 
ting the  Gun  Trap. — Several  Guns  used.— Different  Modes  of  Setting — Various 
animals  to  which  the  Gun  Trap  is  adapted. — The  Bow  Trap.— Vane  and  Barb 
for  Arrows. — Best  Wood  for  Bow. — A  Second  Example  of  Bow  Trap.— Arrows 
Barbed  and  Poisoned. — The  Down  Fall  ;  or  Hippopotamus  Trap. — The  terri- 
ble Harpoon  used  by  the  African  Trapper. — Different  Modes  of  Setting  the 
Down  Fall. — Modification  of  the  Down  Fall  for  small  animals.— -The  Bear 
Trap. — Various  Methods  of  Setting. — Honey  as  Bait  for  Bear. — Bait  for  Puma. 
— The  Pitfall. — Use  of  the  Trap  in  Asia  as  a  means  of  defence  against  the 
Tiger.— Disposition  of  the  Bait. — Wonderful  agility  of  the  Puma. — Niceties  re- 
quired in  the  construction  of  the  Pitfall. — The  Log  Coop  Trap. — Various  ani- 
mals for  which  it  is  adapted.— Different  Modes  of  Setting.— The  Corrall  or 
Hopo  of  Africa.— Its  Construction  and  Appalling  Effects.— The  Net  Trap.— Its 
Use  in  the  Capture  of  the  Lion  and  the  Tiger. — American  animals  to  which  it  may 
be  adapted.— Two  Methods  of  Setting.— Bird  Lime.— Its  Use  for  the  Capture  of 
the  Lion  and  Tiger pages  17—36. 


IV  CONTENTS. 

BOOK    II. 

SNARES  OR  NOOSE  TRAPS. 
General  Remarks.— Requisite  Materials  for  Snaring.— The  Quail  Snare.—"  Suck- 
er Wire  "  Nooses.— Six  Quail  caught  at  a  time.— Hoop  Nooses.— Horse  Hair 
Nooses.— Hedge  Nooses.— Peculiarities  of  the  Grouse.— Selection  of  Ground. 
— The  Triangle  Tree  Snare.— A  Hawk  captured  by  the  device. — The  Wire 
Noose,  as  arranged  for  the  capture  of  the  Woodchuck,  Muskrat,  and  House  Rat. 
—The  Twitch-up.— Selection  of  Ground  for  Setting.— Various  Modes  of  Con- 
structing the  Traps.— The  Poachers'  Snare — Its  portability.— The  Porta- 
ble Snare.— Its  PecuUar  Advantages.— The  "  Simplest "  Snare.— The  valuable 
principle  on  which  it  is  Constructed.— Its  Portability.— Various  Adaptations  of 
the  Principle.— The  Quail  Snare.— Its  ample  capabiUties  of  Capture.— Peculi- 
arities of  the  Quail.— Successful  Baits.— The  Box  Snare.— Modification  in  a 
very  small  scale.— The  Double  Box  Snare.— The  Animals  for  which  it  is 
Adapted.— Ground  Snares.— The  Old-Fashioned  Spingle — The  Im- 
proved Spingle. — Objections  to  Ground  Snares. — The  Figure  Four  Ground 
Snare. — The  Platform  Snare pages  39 — 62. 

BOOK    III. 

TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 

The  Sieve  Trap.— The  Brick  Trap.— The  Coop  Trap— Improved  Method  of  Set- 
ting.—Defects  of  the  old  style.— The  Bat  Fowling  Net.— Its  Use  in  England. 
—How  the  Dark  Lantern  is  Used  by  Bird  Catchers.— The  Clap  Net Its  Ex- 
tensive Use  in  Foreign  Countries.— Decoy  Birds.— The  "  Bird  Whistle  "  used  in 
place  of  decoy.— Wonderful  Skill  attained  in  the  Use  of  the  Bird  Whistb.— Selec- 
tion of  Trapping  Ground.— The  Bird  Whistle  Described.— Its  Use  and  Marvel- 
lous Capabilities.— The  Wild  Goose  Trap.— Its  Extensive  U#e  in  the  Northern 
Cold  Regions  for  the  Capture  of  the  Goose  and  Ptarmigan.— Tame  Geese  Used 
as  Decoys.— Gravel  as  Bait.— The  Trap  Cage.— A  Favorite  Trap  among  Bird 
Catchers.— Call  Birds.— The  Spring  Net  Trap.— Rubber  Elastic  as  Spring 
Power.— A  Simpler  Net  Trap.— Common  Faults  in  many  Bird  Traps.— Com- 
plicated Construction  an  Unnecessary  Feature. — Requisites  of  a  good  Bird  Trap. 
— Hints  on  Simple  Mechanism. — Different  Modes  of  Constructing  Hinge. — Hoop 
IronUsed  as  Spring  Power. — Manner  of  Tempering  Spring — The  Upright  Net 
Trap.— A  Second  Method  of  Constructing  Platform.— The  Box  Owl  Trap. — 
Ventilation  a  Desirable  Feature  in  all  Box  Traps. — Tin  Catch  for  Securing 
Cover  in  Place. — Peculiar  Mode  of  Baiting  for  Birds. — Modification  of  Perch. — 
Baiting  for  the  Owl.— Locality  for  Setting.— The  Owl  in  Captivity — Its  Food.— 
Hints  on  the  Care  of  the  Bird. — The  Box  Bird  Trap. — Cigar  Box  Used  as  a 
Trap. — The  Pendent  Box  Trap — Ventilation. — Simple  Mechanism. — Care  in 
Construction  of  Bearings. — The  Hawk  Trap. — A  "Yankee"  Invention. — 
Stiff-Pointed  Wires  Effectually  Used  in  the  Capture  of  the  Hawk — Owl  also 
Captured  by  the  Same  Device.— The  Wild  Duck  Net.— Its  Use  in  Chesa- 
peake Bay.  —  Manner  of  Constructing  the  Net. —Decoy  Ducks.  ~  Bait 
for  Ducks.— The  Hook  Trap.— Its  Cruel  Mode  cf  Capture.— Peculiar 
Bait  for  Ducks.— The  "  Fool's  Cap"  Trap.— Its  Successful  Use  in  the  Capture 
of  the  Crow. — Shrewdness  of  the  Crow. —Strange  antics  of  a  Crow  when 
Captured  in  the  Trap. — Bird  Lime  the  Secret  of  its  Success. — Wonderful  Tenac- 
ity of  the  Cap. — Different  Modes  of  Setting — Bird  Lime  Described. — Its  as- 
tonishing "  Sticky  "  Qualities. — The  Bird  Lime  of  the  Trade — Various  "  Home- 
Made"  Recipes. — Manner  of  Using  Bird  Lime. — Limed  Twigs. — The  Owl  Used 
as  a  Decoy  in  connection  with  Bird  Lime. — Bird  Lime  used  in  the  Capture  of  the 
Humming  Bird. — A  Flower  Converted  into  a  Trap. — Masticated  Wheat  as  Bird 
I^ime. — Its  Ready  Removal  from  the  Feathers. — Delicate  Organization  of  the 
Humming  Bird — Killed  by  Fright. — Use  of  its  Plumage. — Snares  for  the  Hum- 
ming Bird. — Blow  Guns  Successfully  Used  for  its  Capture. — Killed  by  Concus- 
sion.— D.sablcd  by  a  Stream  of  Water pages  65 — 99. 


CONTENTS.  V 

BOOK    IV. 
MISCELLANEOUS  TRAPS. 

The  Common  Box  Trap.— Two  Modes  of  Setting.— Animals  for  which  it  is  Adapted. 
-A  Modification  of  the  Trap.— Another  Box  Trap.— The  Figure  Four 
Trap. — Its  Advantages, — The  Double  Ender — A  Favorite  Trap  in  New  Eng- 
land.— Simplicity  of  Construction. — The  Rabbit's  Fondness  for  Salt. — Its  Use  as 
a  Bait.— The  Self-Setting  Trap. — Animals  for  which  it  is  adapted. — The 
Dead  Fall. — Various  Methods  of  Construction. — Animals  for  which  it  is  usually 
Set. — Remarkable  Cunning  of  some  Animals. — The  Precautions  which  it  Neces- 
sitates.— Bait  for  the  Muskrat. — Various  Baits  for  the  Mink. — Skunk  Baits. — A 
Fox  Entrapped  by  a  Dead  Fall.— Slight  Modification  in  the  Arrangement  of 
Pieces. — Live  Duck  used  as  Bait.— Another  Arrangement  for  the  Dead  Fall. — 
Trap  Sprung  by  the  Foot  of  the  Animal. — The  Figure  Four  Trap. — Applied  to 
the  Dead  Fall. — The  Garotte. — Its  Singular  Mode  of  Capture. — Its  Common 
Victims — The  Bow  Trap. — An  oddity  of  the  Trap  Kind. — Its  Singular  mechan- 
ism.—The  Mole  Trap.— A  Much-needed  Contrivance.— Subterranean  Mode  of 
Setting.— Its  UnfaiHng  Success.— A  Fish  Trap.— A  Section  of  Stove  Pipe  used 
as  a  Trap. — Its  Various  Victims, — Adjustment  of  Bait. — Curious  Mode  of  Cap- 
ture  pages  103 — 121. 

BOOK    V. 

HOUSEHOLD  TRAPS. 

A  Chapter  Dedicated  to  Pestered  Housekeepers. — The  Domestic  Cat  as  a  Household 
Trap. — The  Rat. — Its  Proverbial  Shrewdness  and  Cunning. — The  Barrel 
Trap. — Its  unlimited  Capabilities  of  Capture — Other  Advantages. — "  Baiting  " 
for  Rats. — A  Second  Form  of  Barrel  Trap. — Various  other  Devices  adapted  to 
the  capture  of  the  Rat. — The  Steel  Trap. — Hints  on  Setting. — Necessary  Pre- 
cautions— The  Box  Dead  Fall. — The  Board  Flap.— The  Box  Pit  Fall. 
— Animals  for  which  it  may  be  set. — Its  Extensive  Capabilities  of  Capture. — Its 
Self-Setting  Qualities. — The  principle  Utilized  for  the  Capture  of  the  Muskrat. — 
The  Cage  Trap. — The  Jar  Trap. — A  Preserve  Jar  Converted  into  a  Mouse 
Trap. — Its  Complete  Success. — Bowl  Traps. — Two  Methods. — Fly  Paper. — 
Recipe  for  Maldng.  —Fly  Trap , pages  125 — 136. 

BOOK  YI. 

STEEL  TRAPS  AND  THE  ART  OF  TRAPPING. 

General  Remarks. — Advantages  of  the  Steel  Trap. — Its  extensive  use  in  the  business 
of  Trapping. — Hints  on  the  Selection  cf  Traps. — Requisites  of  a  Good  Steel 
Trap. — The  Newhouse  Trap. — Various  sizes. — Rat  Trap. — Muskrat  Trap. — 
Mink  Trap — Fox  Trap — Otter  Trap.— Beaver  Trap.—'*  Great  Bear 
Tamer." — Small  Bear  Trap. — Hints  on  Baiting  the  Steel  Trap. — 
The  Staked  Pen. — Old  Method  of  Baiting. — Its  Objections. — Advantages  of 
the  New  Method. — The  Spring  Pole — Its  Service  to  the  Trapper. — The 
Sliding  Pole. — Advantages  of  its  Use  in  the  Capture  of  Aauatic  Animals. — 
The  Clog.— Objections  against  Securing  the  Steel  Trap  to  a  Stake.— Method  of 
Attaching  the  Clog.— The  Grappling  Iron.— The  Season  for  Trapping.— 
Best  condition  for" Furs. — The  Art  of  Trapping. — Antiquity  of  the  Sport.— 
,  Necessary  Qualifications  for  Successful  Tranping. — The  Study  of  Natural  His- 
>   lory  a  source  cf  pleasure  and  profit.— The  Professional  Trapper's  most  serious 


VI  CONTENTS. 

Obstacles. — Marvellous  Cunning  of  many  Animals. — Necessity  of  the  Study  of 
their  Habits. — "Practical  Natural  History." — Trapping  Without  Bait. — Run- 
ways or  By-paths. — How  Utilized  by  the  Trapper. — How  Detected. — Favorable 
Localities  for  the  Setting  of  the  Steel  Trap.— Natural  Advantages.— Entrapping 
animals  through  their  Sense  of  Smell. — Remarkable  Power  of  Scent  Baits.— 
Their  great  value  in  the  Capture  of  the  Beaver — Caution  in  Handling  the  Steel 
Trap.— Effect  of  the  Touch  of  the  Hand. — Buckskin  Gloves  a  Necessary  Re- 
quisite.— Medicines,  or  Scemt  Baits. — Their  Great  Importance  in  the  Art  of 
Trapping. — Castoreum  or  Barkstone — How  Obtained. — Castoreum  Composi- 
tion.— Recipe  for  Making. — How  Used. — Musk — Assafcetida — Oil  of  Rhod- 
ium.— Fish  Oil. — Its  General  Use  in  the  Capture  of  Aquatic  Animals. — Valuable 
Recipe  for  its  Manufacture.  —  Oil  of  Sk'Jnk.  —  How  Obtained.  —  How 
Eradicated  from  Hands  or  Clothing.— Oil  of  Amber. — Oil  of  Ambergris. 
Oil  of  Anise.  —  Its  General  Use  as  a  "  Universal  Medicine."  —Sweet 
Fennel. — Cummin — Fenugreek — Lavender  —  Compound  Medicine  — The 
Trail— Its  Object  and  Value.— Various  Modes  of  Making.  —  How  to 
Trap.— General  Remarks. — The  Fox — Its  Scientific  Classification.— The 
Various  American  Species. — The  Red  Fox.  —  The  Cross  Fox.  —  Why  so 
Named.— The  Black  or  Silver  Fox.— The  Great  Value  of  its  Fur.— The 
Prairie  Fox.— The  Kit  or  Swift  Fox.— The  Gray  Fox.— Similarity  in  the  General 
Characteristics  of  the  Various  Species.- Food  of  the  Fox.— Its  Home. — Its  con- 
summate Craft.— Instances  of  its  Cunning.  —Baffling  the  Hounds.—  How  to  Trap 
the  Fox.— Preparation  of  the  Trap. — Adverse  Effect  of  Human  Scent.— Neces- 
sity of  handhng Trap  with  Gloves.— The  "  Bed."— "  Baiting"  the  Bed  Neces- 
sary.—Precautions  in  Setting  the  Trap. — The  '*  Tricks  of  the  Trapper"  Illus- 
trated.— How  to  Proceed  in  case  of  Non-Success.  —The  Scent-Baits  Utilized. — 
Various  Modes  of  Setting  the  Trap.— The  Baits  Commonly  Used.— The  Dead 
Fall  as  a  Means  of  Capture — Common  Mode  of  Skinning  the  Fox. — Directions 
for  Stretching  Skin. — The  Wolf. — The  Various  Species. — Fierce  Characteris- 
tics of  the  Wolf — Its  Terrible  Inroads  among  Herds  and  Flocks. — The  Gray 
Wolf. — The  Coyote  or  Common  Prairie  Wolf. — The  Texan  Wolf. — Home  of  the 
Wolf. — Number  of  Young. — Cunning  of  the  Wolf. — Caution  Required  in  Trap- 
ping.— How  to  Trap  the  Wolf. — Preparation  of  Trap. — Various  Ways  of  Setting 
the  Trap.— Use  of  the  Trail  and  Scent  Baits. — "  Playing  Possum."— The  Dead 
Fall  and  "Twitch-up"  as  Wolf  Traps.— Directions  for  Skinning  the  Wolf  and 
Stretching  the  Pelt.— The  Puma.— Its  Scientific  Classification.— Its  Life  and 
Habits — ItsWonderful  Agility.— Its  Skill  as  an  Angler.— Its  Stealth.— Various 
Traps  Used  in  the  Capture  of  the  Puma.— The  Gun  Trap.— The  Bow  Trap. — 
The  Dead  Fall.— Trap  for  Taking  the  Animal  Alive. — Log  Coop  Trap.— The 
Pit  Fall.— Bait  for  the  Puma.— The  Steel  Trap — Common  ^Mode  of  Setting.— 
Selection  of  Locahtyfor  Trappmg.— How  to  Skin  the  Puma.— Directions  for 
Stretchmg  the  Pelt — The  Canada  Lynx — Description  of  the  Animal.— Its 
Liieand  Habits.— Its  Food.— Its  Peculiar  Appearance  when  Running.— Easily 
Killed.— The  Dead  Fall  as  a  Lynx  Trap — Peculiar  Manner  of  Construction  for 
the  Purpose.--The  Gun  Trap.— The  Bow  Trap.-The  Twitch-up.— Young 
of  the  Lynx.---Valueof  Its  Fur.-The  Steel  Trap. -Various  Methods  of  Setting. 
—Directions  for  Skinning  the  Animal  and  Stretching  the  Pelt.— The  Wild  Cat. 
—Its  Resemblance  to  the  Domestic  Species.— Its  Strange  Appetite.— Its  Home. 
—Number  of  Young.--Haunts  of  the  Wild  Cat.— Its  Nocturnal  Marauding  ex- 
peditions.— Its  Lack  of  Cunnine.— How  to  Trap  the  Wild  Cat— An  Entire  Colo, 
ny  Captured.— Ferocity  of  the  Wild  Cat.— The  Twitch-up.— Its  Common  Usein 
Axri?/^''^^^  ?f-^''^  "^'^^  Cat.— Other  Successful  Traps.— Various  Baits  for  the 
Wild  Cat— Directions  for  Skinning  the  Animal,  and  Stretching  the  Pelt.— The 
Bear.— The  Various  American  Species.— The  Grizzly.— Its  Enormous  Size  and 
■*^^"''-— Its  Terrible  Fury.— Description  of  the  Animal.— Food  of  the  Grizzly. 
—The  Black  Bear  or  Musquaw.— Its  General  Description.— Bear  Hunting. — 
pan<rerofthe  Sport.— Food  of  the  Bear.— Its  Fondness  for  Pigs — Honey  Its 
Special  Delight.— The  Cubs.— The  Flesh  of  the  Bear  as  Food.— "  Bears* 
Grease,"--Hybernation  of  the  Bear.— Traps  for  the  Bear.— The  Dead  Fall.— Pit- 


CONTENTS.  vii 

fall.— Giant  Coop.— Gun  Trap.— The  Steel  Trap.— The  Clog  and  Grappling-iron, 
— Their  Advantages. — How  to  Trap  the  Bear. — Various  Methods  of  Adjusting 
Traps — Natural  Advantages, — Honey  as  Bait. — Other  Baits. — Scent  Baits-  — 
Skinning  the  Bear. — Directionsfor  Stretching  the  Pelt. — The  Raccoon. — Classi- 
fication— Cunning  and  Stealth  of  the  Animal. — Characteristic  Features. — The 
"  Coon  Chase." — How  the  Raccoon  is  Hunted. — The  *'  Tree'd  Coon." — Varied 
Accomplishments  of  the  Raccoon. — Its  Home  and  Family. — The  "  Coon  "  as  a 
Pet. — Its  Cunning  Ways.— Its  Extensive  Bill  of  Fare. — Life  and  Habits  of  the 
Raccoon — Remarkable  Imprint  of  its  Paw. — Season  for  Trapping  the  Coon — 
How  to  Trap  the  Coon. — Various  Modes  of  Setting  the  Trap. — Use  of  the 
*'  Medicines  "  or  Scent  Baits-" — Other  Traps  for  the  Animal. — Directionsfor  Re- 
moving the  Skin,  and  Stretching  the  Pelt. — The  Badger. — Its  Peculiar  Mark- 
ings.— Use  of  the  Hair. — Nest  of  the  Badger. — Number  of  Young. — Food  of  the 
Animal. — Its  Remarkable  Fondness  for  Honey — Its  Cunning. — Remarkable  In- 
stincts.— Its  Shrewdness. — How  to  Trap  the  Badger — Various  Baits. — Use  of 
**  Medicine," — Capture  of  the  Animal  by  Flooding  its  Burrow. — How  to  Skin  the 
Badger. — Directions  for  Stretching  the  Pelt. — The  Beaver. — Description  of  the 
Animal. — Its  Nature  and  Habits. — The  Beaver  Village. — The  "Lodges"  or 
Beaver  Houses. — Remarkable  Construction  of  the  Huts. — The  Dam  of  the  Bea- 
ver.— Wonderful  Skill  shown  in  its  Construction. — Nocturnal  Habits  of  the  Bea- 
ver.—Remarkable  Engineering  Instincts  of  the  Animal. — How  the  Beaver  Cuts 
Timber. — How  the  Dam  is  Constructed. — The  Formation  of  "  Reefs." — The 
Tail  of  the  Beaver  as  a  Means  of  Transportation. — Subterranean  Passage  to  the 
Huts.—  How  Beavers  are  Hunted. — Young  of  the  Beaver. — How  to  Trap  the 
Beaver. — The  Necessary  Precautions. — Castoreum  or  Bark  Stone. — Its  Great 
Value  in  the  Capture  of  the  Beaver.— Various  Methods  of  Setting  the  Trap.— 
How  to  Apply  the  Castoreum. — Use  of  the  Sliding  Pole. — Food  of  the  Beaver. 
— Directions  for  Skinning  the  Animal  and  Stretching  the  Pelt.— The  Musk- 
rat. — General  Description  of  the  Animal. — Its  Beaver-like  Huts. — Its  Noctur- 
nal Habits. — Its  Food. — The  Flesh  of  the  Musk-rat  as  an  Article  of  Diet. — De- 
scription of  the  Hut — Extensive  Family  of  the  Musk-Rat. — Its  Home. — How 
the  Musk-Rat  swims  beneath  Unbroken  Ice. — How  it  is  Killed  by  being  Driven 
Away  from  its  Breath, — Spearing  the  Musk-Rat. — Construction  of  the  Spear. — 
How  to  Trap  the  Musk-Rat — Use  of  the  Sliding  Pole. — Various  Modes  of  Set- 
ting Trap. — The  Spring  Pole — Scent  Baits. — Various  Devices  for  Capturing 
the  Musk-Rat.— The  Barrel-Trap.— Remarkable  Success  of  the  Trap.— The 
Trail.— Skinning  the  Musk-Rat.— How  to  Stretch  the  Pelt.— The  Otter.— De- 
scription of  the  Animal. — Beauty  of  its  Fur.— How  the  "  Otter  Fur  "  of  Fashion 
is  Prepared. — Food  of  the  Otter. —  Its  Natural  Endowments  for  Swimming — Ha- 
bitation of  the  Otter.— Its  Nest  and  Young.— The  Track  or  *'  Seal "  of  the  ani- 
mal.— How  the  Otter  is  Hunted. — Its  Fierceness  when  Attacked. — The  Otter  as 
a  Pet.— Fishing  for  its  Master.— The  Otter  "Slide."— How  Utihzed  by  the  Trap- 
per.— Playfulness  of  the  Otter. — How  the  Animal  is  Trapped — Various  Modes 
of  Setting  Trap — The  Sliding  Pole.— The  Spring  Pole.— Scent  Baits.— How 
Applied. — Necessary  Precautions. — How  to  Skin  the  Otter. — Directions  for 
Stretching  the  Pelt.— The  Mink.— Its  Form  and  Color.— Value  of  the  Fur.— 
Habits  of  the  Animal. — Its  Diet. — Its  Perpetual  Greed. — Ease  with  which  it 
maybe  Trapped. — Habitation  of  the  Mink. — Its  Nest  and  Young. — How  to  Trap 
the  Mink.— Various  Methods  of  Settins:  the  Trao.— Baits.- The  Sliding  Pole.— 
*' Medicine." — The  Rimways  of  the  Mink.— How  Utilized  in  Trapping. — The 
Trail. — Various  Traps  Used  in  the  Capture  of  the  Mink. — How  to  Skin  the  Ani- 
mal.— The  Pine  Marten. — Description  of  the  Animal. — Its  Natural  Character- 
istics.—Its  Nocturnal  Habits.— Its  Wonderful  Stealth  and  Activity — Its  "  Bill 
of  Fare." — Its  Strange  mode  of  Seizing  Prey. — The  Marten  as  a  Pet. — Its 
Agreeable  Odor. — Various  Traps  Used  in  the  Capture  of  the  Marten.— Baits  for 
the  Marten.— -The  Steel  Trap.— Several  Modes  of  Setting.— Directions  for  Skin- 
ning the  Animal. — The  Fisher — Its  Form  and  Color. — Its  Habitation  and 
Young. — How  the  Animal  is  Trapped. — Various  Methods. — The  Spring  Pole. — 
Baits  for  the  Fisher.— Principal  Devices  Used  in  its  Capture.— The  Skin.— How 


11  CONTENTS. 

Removed  and  Stretched.— The  Skunk,— Its  Fetid  Stench.— Origin  of  the 
Odor.— Its  Effect  on  Man  and  Beast — "  Premonitory  Symptoms"  of  Attack.— 
Acrid  Qualities  of  the  Secretion.— Its  Terrible  Effect  on  the  Eyes.— Interesting 
Adventure  with  a  Skunk — "  Appearances  are  often  Deceitful."— The  Skimk  as 
a  Pet. — Color  of  the  Animal. — Habits  of  the  Animal. — Its  Food. — Its  Young. — 
*'  Alaska  Sable."— How  to  Trap  the  Skunk.— Various  Traps  Used.— The  Steel 
Trap.— Different  Modes  of  Setting.— Baits.— The  Dead  Fall.— Modification  in  its 
Construction.— The  Twitch-up.— Its  Peculiar  Advantages  for  the  Capture  of  the 
Skunk.— Chloride  of  Lime  as  an  Antidote.— Method  of  Eradicating  the  Odor 
from  the  Clothing.— Directions  for  Removing  and  Stretching  the  Skin.— The 
Wolverine.— Its  Desperate  Fierceness  and  voracity.— Its  General  Character- 
istics.—Its  Form  and  Color — Food  of  the  Wolverine.— Its  Trap-Robbing  Pro- 
pensities.—How  to  Trap  the  Wolverine.— Baits — Use  of  the  "  Medicine-"— The 
Gun  Trap  and  Dead  Fall.— The  Steel  Trap.-^ Various  Modes  of  Setting.— Home 
and  Young  of  the  Animal.— How  the  Skin  should  be  Removed  and  Stretched.— 
The  Opossum.— Description  of  the  Animal — Its  Nature  and  Habits.— Its  Home. 
—Remarkable  Mode  of  Carrying  its  Young.— Nocturnal  Habits  of  the  Animal.— 
Its  Food.— Its  Especial  Fondness  for  Persimmons.— Its  Remarkable  Tenacity 
as  a  Climber.— "  Playing  Possum."— How  the  Opossum  is  Hunted.— How 
Trapped.— Various  Devices  Used  in  its  Capture.— Scent  Baits.— How  the  Skin  is 
Removed  and  Stretched.— The  Rabbit.— Wide-spread  Distribution  of  the 
Various  Species.— Their  Remarkable  Powers  of  Speed.— Nest  of  the  Rabbit.— Its 
Prohfic  Offspring,— Food  of  the  Rabbit.— Its  Enemies— Various  Devices  Used  in 
Trapping  the  Animal.— Necessary  Precautions  in  Skinning  the  Rabbit.— The 
WooDCHUCK.— Description  of  the  Animal.— Its  Habits.--Its  Burrows — Its  Food 
— Toughness  of  the  Skin. — Its  Use. — Nest  of  the  Animal. — The  Woodchuck  as 
Food.— How  the  Animal  is  Trapped — The  Steel  Trap.— The  Spring  Pole.— The 
Twitch-up. — How  the  Woodchuck  is  "Drowned  Out." — The  Turtle  as  a  Ferret. — 
Smoking  the  Burrows. — Directions  for  Skinning  the  Animah — The  Gopher — 
Its  Burrows. — Its  Food. — Remarkable  Cheek  Pouches  of  the  Animal. — Their 
Use — How  to  Trap  the  Animal. — How  the  Skin  is  Removed. — The  Mole. — Its 
Varied  Accomplishments — Its  Remarkable  Dwellings — Complicated  Structure 
of  the  Habitation — The  Fury  and  Voracity  of  the  Mole. — Peculiarities  of  Its  Fur. 
— A  Waistcoat  of  Mole  Skins.— Odor  of  the  Mole.— Mole  Traps. — Various  Species 
of  the  Mole.— The  Mole  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.— Marvellous  Beauty  of  Its 
Fur. — Squirrels. — Their  General  Peculiarities  of  Form  and  Habit.— Their 
Food — Their  Provident  Instincts.—"  Nutting"  in  Midwinter.— The  Nest  of  the 
Squirrel.— Burrowing  Squirrels.- The  Various  American  Species — The  Grey 
Squirrel.— The  Chipmuck.— The  Chickaree.— The  Flying  Squirrel,  &c.— How 
Squirrels  are  Trapped.— Various  Traps  Used  in  their  Capture.— Removal  of 
Skin.— The  Deek.— Difficnltv  of  Hunting  the  Animal  in  Dry  Seasons.— 
Various  American  S-^ecies  of  the  Deer.— How  the  Deer  is  Trapped.— Peculiar 
Construction  of  the  Tran.— Scent  Bait  for  the  Deer.— Various  Methods  of  Setting 
the  Trap.— Violence  of  the  Deer  when  Trapped.— The  Clog.— Dead  Falls.— 
Food  of  the  Deer.— Deer  "Ynrds."— Natural  Enemies  cf  the  Deer.--Hcw 
the  Deer  is  Hunted.— "Still  Hunting."— The  Deer's  Acute  Sense  of  Smell. 
—How  to  Detect  the  Direction  of  the  Wind.— Natural  Habits  of  the  Deer. 
— "  Night  Hunting."— Luminositv  of  the  Eyes  of  the  Deer  at  Night.— Hvvntirg 
thedcerwithdogs.— "DeerLicks'."- How  Salt  is  used  in  Hunting  the  Deer. 
— Htmtincr  from  a  Scaffolding.— Peculiar  Sight  cf  Deer-—  V  %t^i  i^^ 
used  in  Night  Huntine.— Head  Lantern.— How  made.— How  used.— The  fiery 
Fves  of  the  Deer. — "  Fox  I'ire  "  or  Phosphorescent  wood, — How  "^^^  ^^ 
Hunter — Seasons  for  Deer  hunting. — How  to  skin  the  Deer. — The  ?P^^"~T 
Description  of  the  animal. — Immense  size  of  its  Horns. — Moose  yprds. — Himted 
on  Snow  shoes. — The  danp^ers  of  Moose  Hunting. — Exnuisite  sense  of  Smell. — How 
the  Moose  is  Trapped. — Directions  for  removing  the  Skin  of  the  Animal. — Rocky 
Mountain  Sheep.— Description  of  the  Animal. — Its  enormous  Horns.— Habits  cf 
the  creature — Its  flesh  as  Food. — How  the  Animal  is  Trapped. — The  Buffalo. — 
Its  Habits.— Its  Food.—Buffalo-grass.— Howthe  Animal  is  Hunted  and  Trapped.-* 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Buffalo  flesh  as  Food. — Buffalo  skins. — The  Prong  Horn  Antelope.— Descrip- 
tion of  the  Animal— Peculiarity  of  Horn. — How  the  creature  is  Hunted  and  Destroy- 
ed by  the  Indians.— Remarkable  sense  of  Smell  of  the  Animal.— Its  Beauty  and 
grace. — Flesh  of  the  Antelope  as  Food. — How  the  Animal  is  Trapped. — Various 
Traps  used  in  their  Capture. — The  Dead-fall. — Pit-fall. — How  to  remove  the  Hide 
of  the  Animal. — Shooting  and  Poisoning. — '•  Shot  furs." — "  Poisoned  furs." — 
"  Trapped  furs." — Their  relative  Value  in  the  Fur  Market. — Effect  of  grazing  shot 
on  fur.— Effect  of  Poison  on  Fur. — Remarks  on  the  use  of  Poison. — Strychnine. — 
Poisoning  Wolves. — Recipe  for  mixing  the  Poison. — Poisoning  the  Bear, — How 
the  Dose  is  Prepared Pages  137-222- 


BOOK  VII. 

CAMPAIGN  LIFE  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 

Introductorj^  Remarks.— "  Amateur  Trapping." — Plan  of  Campaign. — Selection 
of  Trapping-ground. — Advantages  of  a  Watered  District.— Labor  of  transportation 
lightened  by  Boating. — Lakes,  Ponds  and  Streams.  —The  Adirondacks  and  AUegha- 
nies — Remarks  on  the  "  Home  Shanty." — Selection  of  Site  for  building. — Value 
of  a  good  Axe— Remarks  on  the  Bark  Shanty. — Its  value  in  case  of  Storms. — 
Wise  fore-sight — Remarks  on  the  Indian  Birch-bark  Canoe.— Dug-out  and  Bateau. — 
Commencement  of  Trapping  Season. — Advantages  of  preliminary  preparation. — 
Extensive  route  of  the  Professional  Trapper. — Sixty  pounds  of  Personal  Lug- 
gage.— How  the  traps  and  provisions  are  distributed  along  the  Trapping  lines. — U.se 
of  the  "Home  Shanty." — "  Keeping  Shanty." — Necessity  of  its  being  Guarded. 
— Wolves  and  Bears  as  thieves. — Steel  Traps  considered. — Number  used  in  a 
Professional  Campaign. — Number  for  an  Amateur  Campaign. — Their  Probable 
Cost.— The  average  size  of  Trap.— Dead-falls,  Twitchups,  &c.,  considered.— Re- 
quisite Tools  for  a  Campaign.— A  "  House-wife"  a  valuable  necessity.— "  Clean- 
liness next  to  Godliness."— The  Trappers'  Light.— Comparative  value  of  Lanterns 
and  Candles.— The  Trappers'  Personal  outfit.— The  jack-knife — The  Pocket- 
Compass.— Necessity  of  preparing  for  Emergencies.— Shot  guns  and  Rifles.— 
Both  combined  in  the  same  weapon.— Oil  for  Fire  Arms.— Fat  of  the  Grouse 
Used  on  Fire  Arms.— Fishing  tackle.— The  Trappers'  portable  stove.— The  Stove 
versus  The  Open  Fire.— The  Trapper's  Clothing.- The  Material  and  Colon- 
Boots.— High-topped  Boots.— Short  Boots — Their  Relative  Qualities.— Water- 
proof Boot  Dressing.— Recipe — The  Trapping  Season.— Hints  on  Trapping-lines. 
—The  *' Wheel"  plan.— Mode  of  following  the  lines.— "  Trap  Robbers"  or 
'  Poachers."— How  to  guard  against  them.— Hiding  furs.— How  to  store  Traps 
from  Season  to  Season.— Gnats  and  Mosquitoes.— The  "  Smudge."— How  made. 
—Food  and  Cooking  Utensils.—"  Roughing  it."—"  A  chance  Chip  for  a  Frv- 
ing  Pan." — A  "happy  medium"  between  two  extremes. — Cosy  and  Comfortable 
living  on  a  Campaign.— Portable  Food — Combined  Nutriment  and  lightness  in 
weight  to  be  desired.— The  Tranpers'  Culinary  Outfit.— Indian  meal  as  Food.— 
The  Trappers'  "Staff  of  Life."— Wheat  flour.— Salt  Pork.— Seasoning.— Pork 
Fritters  a  luxury. — Cooking  Utensils.— The  "Telescope"  drinking  cup. — Recipe 
for  making  Pork  Fritters.— "  Chop  Sticks"  k  la  "Chinee."— A  Flat  Chip  as  a 
Piate.—Boiled  Mush.— Old  "Stand  by."— Recipe.— Fried  Mush.— Indian  meal 
Cakes.— Recipe. — Johnny  Cake. — Recipe. — Hoe  Cakes. — Recipe. — Fresh  fish. — 
How  to  Cook  fi=;h  in  a  most  Delicious  manner. — Prof.  Blot,  and  Delmonico,  out- 
done.— The  "  Ne  plus  ultra"  of  delicacies. — All  the  sweet  Juices  of  the  Fish 
preserved. — Disadvantages  of  the  ordinary  method  of  cooking. — Partridge,  Duck, 
Quail,  Cooked  deliciously. — Roasting  unrivalled! — Hints  on  Broiling. — An  ex- 
temporized Spider  or  Toaster — Roasting  on  a  spit. — Venison,  Bear,  and  Moose 
M^at  broiled  in  the  best  style. — Venison  cutlets. — The  Camp  fire. — Usual  mode 


CONTENTS. 

of  building  Fire. — How  the  Kettle  is  suspended. — "Luxuries"'  considered.— The 
Knapsack  a  desirable  Acquisition. — Matches. — The  Bottle  Match-safe. — Water- 
proof Matches. — How  made. — Lucifer  Matches. — Recipe  for  Waterproof  prepara- 
tion.— The  Pocket  Sun  Glass. — A  necessary  adjunct  to  a  Trapper's  Outfit. — Its 
Advantages  in  cases  of  emergency. — "  Touch  wood  "  or  "  Punk  Tinder,"  valuable 
in  lighting  fires. — How  to  light  Fires  without  matches  or  Sun  glass. — How  to  light 
a  fire  without  Matches,  Sun  Glass,  Powder,  or  Percussion  Caps. — A  last  Resort. — 
Matches  best  in  the  long  run. — The  Portable  Camp  Stove  described. —  Its  accom- 
panying Furniture. — The  Combination  Camp-knife. —  Hints  on  Provisions. — Pota- 
toes as  food. — Beans. — "Self  raising"  Wheat  flour. — Light  Bread,  Biscuit  and 
Pancakes  in  Camp. — Various  accessories. — Oave  Oil  for  purposes  of  Frying. — 
Pork. — Indian  meal. — Crackers. — Wheaten  Grits. — Rice  and  Oatmeal. — Tea  and 
Coffee. — Soups. — Liebig's  Extract  of  Beef.— Canned  Vegetables, — Lemonade. — 
Waterproof  bags  for  provisions. — Painted  bags. — Caution  ! — Waterproof  prepara- 
tion— Air-tight  jars  for  Butter. — Knapsack  or  Shoulder  Basket. — Venison  as  food. 
— To  preserve  the  overplus  of  meat. — "  Jerked  Venison"  Recipe  and  Pi-ocess, — 
Moose  and  Bear  meat  and  Fish,  similarly  prepared. — How  to  protect  provisions 
from  Wolves — The  Moufflon  and  Prong-horn  as  food. — '"  Small  game,"  Squirrels, 
Rabbits,  and  Woodchucks. — "  Skunk  Meat"  as  a  delicacy. — The  Buffalo  as  food. 
— Grouse,  the  universal  Food  of  Trappers  and  Hunters. — Various  species  of 
Grouse. — The  Sage  Cock. — The  Ptarmigan. — How  they  are  trapped  by  the  In- 
dians in  the  Hudson'sjBay  Country. — Waterfowl. — Sea  and  Inland  Ducks. — Various 
species  of  Duck. — Mallard. — Muscovy. — Wigeon. — Merganser. — Canvass  Back. 
— Teal,  &c. — Wild  Geese. — Fish  as  food. — Angling  and  Spearing. — Salmon 
Spearing  in  the  North. — Description  of  the  Salmon  Spear  used  by  the  Indians. — 
Salmon  Spearing  at  night. — Requisites  of  a  good  Spearsman. — Fishing  through 
the  Ice — Cow's  udder  and  Hogs  liver  as  Bait. — Other  Baits. — Assafoetida  and 
Sweet  Cicely  as  fish  Baits. — Trout  fishing  with  Tip-up's. — Pickerel  fishing  in 
Winter. — Pickerel  Spearing  through  the  Ice. — The  Box  Hut. — The  *' Fish  Lan- 
tern'' or  Fish  Trap. — Fish  Attracted  by  light. — Light  as  Bait. — How  the  Fish 
Lantern  is  made  and  used. — The  Trapper's  Shelter. — Introductory  remarks. 
— The  Perils  of  a  Life  in  the  Wilderness. — A  Shelter  of  some  form  a  Necessity. — 
The  Log  Shanty. — Full  directions  for  building. — Ingenious  manner  of  constructing 
roof. — How  the  Chimney  is  built. — Spacious  interior  of  the  Shanty. — The  Bark 
Shanty. — A  Temporary  structure. — Full  directions  for  its  construction. — Selec- 
tion of  building  site. — Tents. — Advantages  of  their  use. — Various  kinds  of  Tents. 
— The  House  Tent. — The  Fly  Tent. — The  Shelter  Tent. — Directions  for  making 
the  Tent. — Tent  Cloth. — How  to  render  tents  Water  and  Fire-proof. — Valuable 
recipe. — Beds  and  Bedding. — Perfect  rest  and  comfort  to  the  tired  Trapper. 
— A  portable  Spring  bed  for  the  woods. — A  Hammock  bed.— Bed  Clothes. — The 
Canton  Flannel  Bag.— Hammocks. — Tent  Carpeting. — Spruce  and  Hemlock 
boughs  as  bedding. — How  to  cover  the  ground  evenly.    The  Rubber  Blanket. 

pages  225-236. 

BOOK  VIII. 
THE  TRAPPER'S  MISCELLANY. 


^  Warning  to  the  Novice. — Winched  Cannibals  of  the  Woods. — Insect  Ointments. 
— Mosquitoes  and  Gnats. — Their  aversion  to  the  scent  of  Pennyroyal. — Pennv- 
royal  Ointment — Recipe.— Mutton  tallow  Ointment.— Tar  and  Sweet  Oil  Lini- 
ment.— Recipe. — Its  effect  on  the  Complexion. — Invasions  of  Insects  by  night. — 
Their  pertinacity  and  severity.— The  experience  of  out  Adirondack  guide.— The 
bloodthirsty  propensities  of  the  Mosquito  admirabV  depicted. — The  "Smudge" 
Smoke  versus  Insect  Bites. — "Punkeys'-  and  "Midgets." — Their  terrible  vora- 
city.— Painful  effects  of  their  Bites,— Pennyroyal  an  effective  Antidote.— Depraved 


CONTENTS.  xi 

appetite  of  the  mosquito. — A  Warning  to  the  Intemperate. — Use  and  abuse  of  Al- 
cohol.— A  Popular  error  corrected. — A  substitute  for  Whiskey  and  Brandy. — Red 
Pepper  Tea.— Its  great  value  as  a  remedy  in  Illness. — The  Mosquitoes'  favorite 
Victim. — Result  of  the  bite  of  the  insect. — The  Mosquito  Head-Net. — Directions 
for  making  the  Net. — Netting  attachment  for  the  Hat. — Portable  Sun  Shade  or 
Hat  brim, — Netting  attachment  for  the  Hat  brim. — Boat  Building.— A  Boat  of 
some  kind  a  necessity  to  the  Trapper. — The  **  Dug-Out"  or  Log  Canoe. — Requi- 
site Tools  for  its  Manufacture. — Selection  of  the  Log. — Directions  for  making  the 
boat. — Remarkable  thinness  to  which  they  may  be  reduced. — Lightness  of  the 
boat. — How  to  gauge  the  thickness. — How  to  stop  leaks. — The  Indian  or  Birch 
Bark  Canoe. — The  Indian  as  a  Canoe-maker. — His  remarkable  skill. — Perfection 
of  the  Indian  made  Canoe, — Description  of  the  Canoe. — Capacity  of  the  various 
sizes.— How  to  construct  a  Bark  Canoe. — Selection  of  Bark. — How  to  prevent 
Leaks. — Material  used  by  the  Indians  in  sewing  the  Bark. — Advantages  of  the 
Birch  Bark  Canoe. — Basswood,  Hemlock,  and  Spruce  Bark  Canoes. — A  Light 
.  Home-made  Boat. — Selection  of  Boards. — Directions  for  making  the  Boat. — 
Caulking  the  seams.— Value  of  Pitch  for  waterproofing  purposes — How  it  should 
be  applied.— The  Scow.— How  to  construct  the  ordinary  Flat-bottomed  Boat.— 
The  Mud-stick.— Snow  Shoes.— A  necessity  for  winter  travel.— The  "Snow 
Shoe  Race."— The  mysteries  of  a  Snow  Shoe.—"  Taming  the  Snow  Shoe."— How 
to  make  the  Snow  Shoe.— Complicated  Net-work. — Two  methods  of  attaching  the 
Net-work.— How  the  Snow  Shoe  is  worn. — The  Toboggan  or  Indian  Sledge. 
— Its  value  to  the  Trapper. — Winter  Coastine. — Great  sport  with  the  Toboggan. — 
How  to  make  a  Toboggan — Selection  of  Boards. — How  the  Sledge  is  used. — 
Curing  Skins.— Importance  of  Curing  Skins  properly. — Valuable  hints  on  Skin- 
ing  Animals. — How  to  dry  Skins. — How  to  dress  Skins  for  Market. — Astringent 
preparations. — Recipe. — Stretchers. — How  skins  are  stretched. — The  Board 
Stretcher. — How  it  is  made  and  used. — The  Wedge  Stretcher. — How  made  and 
used. — The  Bow  Stretcher. — The  Hoop  Stretcher. — Tanning  Skins. — To  Tan 
with  the  hair  on. — Preparation  of  Skin  for  Tanning. — Tanning  Mixture. — Recipe. 
— Second  Mixture. — Recipe. — Third  Mixture  and  Recipe — How  the  Skin  is  soft- 
ened and  finished. — How  to  Tan  Mink  and  Muskrat  Skins. — Preparation 
of  Skin. — Tanning  Mixtures. — Various  Recipes. — "  Fleshing." — The  Fleshing- 
knife.— Substitute  for  the  Fleshing-knife.— How  to  Tan  the  Skins  of  the 
Beaver,  Otter,  Raccoon,  and  Marten.— Tanning  Mixtures. — How  to  soften 
the  Skin.— Simple  Tanned  Skin.— Recipe  for  removing  the  fur. — How  to  finish 
the  Skin.— Observations  on  the  History  of  Furs  and  the  Fur  Trade. 
— Some  bits  of  History  in  connection  with  Furs. — Ancient  use  of  Furs.— Furs  a 
medium  of  Exchange. — Furs  and  Fashion.— Extravagance  in  Fur  Costume — 
Choice  Furs  as  Badges  of  Rank.— Their  use  restricted  to  Royal  Families.— The 
Early  Fur  Trade  of  Europe.— A  Tribute  paid  in  Furs.— Early  History  of  the  Fur 
Trade  in  America.— Origin  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. — Hostility  of  the 
French  Canadian  Traders.— Establishment  of  the  North  West  Company.— Com- 
petition and  War.— Consolidation  of  the  tv.'o  Companies.— Great  sales  cf  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company.— Importance  of  the  Fur  Trade.— Cities  founded  by  the 
enterprise  of  the  Trapper.— St.  Paul.— Montreal  and  Mackinaw.— Fortunes  built 
up  on  Fur  Traffic— John  Jacob  Aston— Mink  and  Muskrat  Skins.— Their  exten- 
sive use  in  America — Estimated  value  of  the  annual  yield  of  Raw  Furs  throughout 
the  World.— Classification  of  Furs  by  American  Dealers.—"  Home  "  Furs.— 
"  Shipping"  Furs.— Table  of  Sales  of  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  1873.— March 
Sale.— September  Sale.— Price  according  to  Quality.— Estimated  average  per 
Skin.— List  of  American  "Shipping"  Furs.— List  of  American  "Home"  Furs.— 
Market  Value  of  Fur  Skins. — Eccentricities  of  the  Fur  Market— Demand 
governed  by  Fashion.— How  Fashion  runs  the  Fur  Trade.— The  Amateur  Trapper 
and  the  Fur  Trade.— Difficulty  of  a  profitable  disposal  of  Furs.— Advice  to  the 
Novice.- How  to  realize  on  the  sale  of  Furs.— Table  of  Values  of  American 
Fur  Skins.— a  complete  list  of  American  Fur  bearing  Animals. — Various  prices 
of  Skins  according  to  Quality.— Uses  of  American  Furs  at  Home  and 
Abroad.— The  Silver  Fox.— Fifty  Guineas  for  a  Fur  Skin.— Red  Fox  Fur.— 


11  CONTENTS. 

Its.  use  in  Oriental  Countries. — Beaver  Fur. — Its  various  uses.— Raccoon  Skins,  a 
great  Staple  for  Russia  and  Germany. — Bear  Skins  and  their  various  uses. — Lynx, 
Fisher,  and  Marten  Skins.— The  Mink. — Use  of  its  hair  for  Artists  pencils. — 
Muskrat  Skins. — Three  millions  annually  exported  to  Germany  alone. — Their  ex- 
tensive use  among  the  American  poorer  classes. — Otter  Fur. — Sleigh  Robes  from 
Wolf  Skins,— Rabbit  Fur. — Its  use  in  the  Manufacture  of  Hats. — Breeding 
Rabbits  for  their  Fur. — The  Wolverine. — Skunk  Fur,  dignified  by  the  name  of 
Alaska  Sable. — Large  shipments  to  Foreign  Countries. — How  the  Fur  of  thu 
Badger  is  used. — Opossum,  Puma,  and  Wild  Cat  Fur. — Robes  for  the  Fashion- 
able.— Squirrel  and  Mole  Skins .     Pages  255-257. 


I  /     I 


ff-^*^  ^__  _ 

-1,1   1  jf:Jii-!i  I  ^ ,\ 


FULL  PAGES. 


PAGE. 

1.  Caui^lit  at  last • FrontispiccG 

2.  Traps  for  Large  Game 15 

3.  Snares  or  Noose  Traps 37 

4.  Traps  for  Feathered  Game iS^ 

5.  Miscellaneous  Traps loi 

6.  Household  Traps 123 

7.  Steel  Traps,  and  the  art  of  Trapping ....  137 

8.  Almost  Persuaded. to  face 154 

9.  The  Campaign 223 

10.    Trapper's  Miscellany 253 


XIV  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

ILLUSTRATIONS   IN   THE   TEXT. 

PAGE. 

11.  "Preface" 3 

12.  Initial  to  Preface 3 

13.  End  piece  to  Preface 6 

14.  "  Contents  ". . . 7 

15.  "Illustrations" 16 

16.  Initial  to  Book  1 17 

17.  Dead  fall  for  large  Animals. 18 

18.  Explanatory  drawing  of  pieces 19 

19.  The  Gun  Trap .  21 

20.  The  Bow  Trap 23 

21.  ''      "        "  arrangement  of  parts 24 

22.  "      "        "  Section 25 

23.  Foot  String  Bow  Trap 26 

24.  The  Down  fall 27 

25.  The  Bear  Trap 30 

26.  End  piece  to  Book  1 36 

27.  Initial  to  Book  II 39 

28.  Quail  Nooses 40 

29.  Hedge  Nooses ;    . .  42 

30.  The  Triangle  Snare 42 

31.  The  Twitch-up 44 

32.  Method  of  Setting 45 

33.  "       "         "  No.  2 46 

34.  «       "        "  No.  3 47 

35-        "       "        "N0.4 47 

36.  "       "        "No.  5 48 

37.  The  Poacher's  Snare 49 

38.  The  Portable  Snare 51 

39.  The  "  Simplest"  Snare 52 

40.  Modification  No.  2 53 

41.  "            "    3 54 

42.  The  Quail  Snare 54 

43.  The  Box  Snare 55 

44.  The  Double  Box  Snare 57 

45.  The  Old  fashioned  Springle 59 

46.  The  Improved  Springle '. 60 

47.  The  Figure  Four  Ground  Snare 61 

48.  The  Platform  Snare 62 

49.  End  piece 62 

50.  Initial  to  Book  III 65 

51.  The  Brick  Trap 66 

52.  Method  of  Setting 67 

53.  The  Coop  Trap ' 68 

54.  The  Bat  fowling  Net 71 

55.  The  Clap  Net 72 

56.  The  Bird  Whistle 74 

57.  The  Trap  Cage 76 

58.  Diagrams  of  Cage yy 

59.  The  Sprmg  Net  Trap Si 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  XV 

PAGE. 

60.  Section  of  Spring  Net  Trap 82 

61.  A  Simpler  Net  Trap 83 

62.  The  Upright  Net  Trap 86 

63.  Second  Methoi        "  87 

64.  The  Box  Owl  Trap 89 

65.  The  Box  Bird   Trap 91 

65.  The  Pendent  Box   Bird  Trap 92 

67.  The  Hawk  Trap 93 

68.  The  Wild  Duck  Net 94 

69.  The  Hook  Trap 95 

70.  The  Fool's  Cap  Trap 96 

71.  The  Limed  Twig 97 

72.  Humming-bird  Trap 99 

73.  Initial  to  Book  IV 103 

74.  The  Common  Box  Trap 104 

75.  Two  Modes  of  Setting 105 

76.  Boy  Trap 106 

Tj.  The  Figure  Four  Trap 107 

78.  Parts  of  "    10^ 

79.  The  "  Double  Ender  " 109 

So.  The  Self-Setting  Trap no 

81.  The  Dead  fall 1 1 1 

82.  Method  No.  2 114 

^-i^.  The  Garotte 115 

84.  Arrangement  of  "  Setting  " 117 

85.  The  Bow  Garotte  Trap 116 

86.  A  Fish  Trap 120 

87.  End  Piece  "  Maternal  advice  " 121 

fi%.  Initial  to  Book  V 125 

89.  The  Barrel  Trap ^ 126 

90.  The  Box  Dead  Fall 129 

91.  The  Board  Flap 130 

92.  The  Box  Pit-fall  132 

93.  Diagram  of       "    133 

94.  Cage  Trap 134 

95.  Initial  to  Book  VI 139 

96.  Steel  Trap.     No.  (o)  or  Rat  Trap 140 

97.  Steel  Trap.     No.  i,  or  Muskrat  Trap 141 

98.  "  "  No.  2,  or  Mink  Trap 141 

99.  "  "  No.  2>^ ,  or  Fox  Trap 141 

100.  "  "  No.  3,  or  Otter  Trap 141 

loi.  "  "  No.  4,  or   Beaver  Trap 141 

102.  "  The  Great  Bear  Tamer,"  Steel  Trap 142 

103.  Steel  Trap  No.  5,  or  Small  Bear  Trap 143 

\->\.  Steel  Trap  set  in  pen 143 

10  V  The  Spring  Pole 145 

io5.  The  Sliding  pole 146 

107.  The   Grappling  Iron 147 

108.  The  Wolf 159 

109.  The   Puma 162 

no.  The  Canada  Lynx 165 


xvi  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE. 

111.  The  Wild  C  .t 167 

112.  The  Bear 170 

113.  The  Raccoon 174 

114.  The  Badger 176 

115.  The  Beaver 178 

116.  The  Otter 186 

117.  The  Mink 190 

li8.  The  Marten 192 

J 19.  The  Skunk 196 

120.  The  Wolverine 199 

121.  The  Opossum 201 

122.  The  Squirrel 212 

123.  The  Moose 219 

124.  Initial  to  Book  Vll 225 

125.  Portable  Drinking  Cup 231 

126.  The  Home  Shanty. 243 

127.  The  Shelter  tent 247 

128.  The  Trapper's  Bed 248 

129.  End  Piece 251 

130.  Initial  to  Book  VIII 255 

131.  Head  Net ^57 

132.  Portable  Hat-brim ^5^ 

133.  Hat-brim  with  netting  attachment ^^^ 

1 34.  The  Dug-out  or  Log  Canoe •. ^59 

13;.  The  Birch-Bark  Canoe ^^^ 

136.  A  Light  Home-made  Boat A 

137.  Diagram  view  of  Boat . 

138.  The  Snow  Shoe "^9 

139.  The  Toboggan  or  Indian  Sledge ^7 

140.  The  Board  Stretcher . ^73 

141.  The  Wedge  Stretcher • ^74 

142.  The  Bow  Stretcher ^75 

143.  "  The  End  " 257 


y    %  M^n. 


^■C\     /^>      \(i^ 


BOOK  I. 

TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 

OWEVER  free  our  forests  may  be 
from  the  lurking  dangers  of  a  tropical 
i|||||BHWHa|wrai|^^^  jungle,  they  nevertheless  shelter  a  few 
fiUBBB^HHil^S^  large  and  formidable  beasts  -which  are 
legitimate  and  deserving  subjects  of  the 
Trapper's  Art.  Chief  among  them  are 
the  Puma,  or  Cougar,  Bear,  Lynx,  Wolf 
and  Wolverine. 

Although  commonly  taken  in  steel 
traps,  as  described  respectively  in  a 
later  portion  of  this  work,  these  animals  are  nevertheless  often 
captured  by  Deadfalls  and  other  devices,  which  are  well  koown 
to  the  professional  Trapper,  and  which  serve  excellently  in 
cases  of  emergency,  or  in  the  scarcity  of  steel  traps. 

l-HE    DEAD-FALL. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  this  trap,  some  of  which  are 
described  in  other  parts  of  this  volume.  In  general  construc- 
tion they  all  bear  a  similarity,  the  methods  of  setting  being 
slightly  changed  to  suit  the  various  game  desired  for  capture. 
For  large  animals,  and  particularly  the  Bear,  the  trap  is  sprung 
by  the  pressure  of  the  animal's  foot,  while  reaching  for  the 
bait.  Select  some  favorite  haunt  of  the  Bear,  and  proceed  to 
construct  a  pen  of  large  stakes.  These  should  consist  of 
young  trees,  or  straight  branches,  about  three  inches  in  diame- 
ter, and  should  be  of  such  a  length  as  to  reach  a  height  of  four 
or  five  feet  when  set  in  the  ground,  this  being  the  required 
height  of  the  pen.  Its  width  should  be  about  two  and  a  half 
or  three  feet ;  its  depth,  four  feet ;  and  the  top  should  be  roofed 
over  with  cross  pieces  of  timber,  to  prevent  the  bait  from  be- 


i8 


TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 


ing  taken  from  above.  A  straight  log,  about  eight  inches  in 
diameter,  and  six  feet  in  length  should  now  be  rolled  against 
the  opening  of  the  pen,  and  hemmed  in  by  two  upright  posts, 
one  on  each  side,  directly  on  a  line  with  the  sides  of  the  enclo- 
sure. Another  log,  or  tree  trunk,  of  the  same  diameter,  and 
about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  length,  should  next  be  procured. 
Having  this  in  readiness,  we  will  now  proceed  to  the  construc- 
tion of  the  other  pieces.  In  order  to  understand  the  ar- 
rangement of  these,  we  present  a  separate  drawing  of  the  parts 


M^/b.  ^ 


-Q^ 


as  they  appear  when  the  trap  is  set.  (a),  An  upright  post,  is  sup- 
plied at  the  upper  end  with  a  notch,  having  its  flat  face  on  the 
lower  side.  This  post  should  be  driven  into  the  ground  in  the 
left  hand  back  corner  of  the  pen,  and  should  be  three  feet  cr 
more  in  height.  Another  post  (d)  of  similar  dimensions,  is 
provided  with  a  notch  at  its  upper  end,  the  notch  being  re- 
versed, /.  e.j  having  its  flat  side  tippermost.  This  post  should 
be  set  in  the  ground,  outside  of  the  pen,  on  the  right  hand  side 
and  on  a  line  with  the  first.  A  third  post  {c\  is  provided  with  a 
crotch  on  its  upper  end.  This  should  be  planted  outside  of  the 
pen  on  the  right  hand  side,  and  on  a  line  with  the  front.  The 
treadle  piece   consists   of  a  forked  branch,  about  three  feet 


THE    DEAD-FALL. 


19 


in  length,  supplied  with  a  square  board  secured  across  its  ends. 
At  the  junction  of  the  forks,  an  augur  hole  is  bored,  into  which 
a  stiff  stick  about  three  feet  in  length  is  inserted.  This  is 
shown  at  (//).  Two  poles,  {d)  and  (^),  should  next  be  procured, 
each  about  four  feet  in  length.  These  complete  the  number  of 
pieces,  and  the  trap  may  then  be  set.  Pass  the  pole  {d)  between 
the  stakes  of  the  pen,  laying  one 
end  in  the  notch  in  the  post  (<?), 
and  holding  the  other  beneath  the 
notch  in  the  upright  {b).  The  sec- 
ond pole  {e)  should  then  be  ad- 
justed, one  end  being  placed  in 
the  crotch  post  (<:),  and  the  other 
caught  beneath  the  projecting  end 
of  the  pole  (<^),  as  is  fully  illustra-^^^ 


f, 


ted  \n  the  engraving.  The  dead- 
log  should  then  be  rested  on  the 
front  extremity  of  the  pole  last  ad- 
justed, thus  effecting  an  equilib- 
rium. 

The  treadle-piece  should  now  be  placed  in  position  over  a 
short  stick  of  wood  {/),  with  its  platform  raised  in  front,  and  the 
upright  stick  at  the  back  secured  beneath  the  edge  of  the  latch 
pole  {d). 

The  best  bait  consists  of  honey,  for  which  Bears  have  a  re- 
markable fondness.  It  may  be  placed  on  the  ground  at  the 
back  part  of  the  enclosure,  or  smeared  on  a  piece  of  meat  hung 
at  the  end  of  the  pen.  The  dead-log  should  now  be  weighted 
by  resting  heavy  timbers  against  its  elevated  end,  as  seen  in 
the  main  drawing,  after  which  the  machine  is  ready  for  its 
deadly  work. 

A  Bear  will  never  hesitate  to  risk  his  hfe  where  a  feast  of 
honey  is  in  view,  and  the  odd  arrangement  of  tuTjbers  has  no 
fears  for  him  after  that  tempting  bait  has  once  been  discovered. 
Passing  beneath  the  suspended  log,  his  heavy  paw  encounters 
the  broad  board  on  the  treadle-piece,  which  immediately  sinks 
with  his  weight.  The  upright  pole  at  the  back  of  the  treadle  is 
thus  raised,  forcing  the  latch-piece  from  the  notch :  this  in  turn 
sets  free  the  side  pole,  and  the  heavy  log  is  released,  falling 
with  a  crushing  weight  over  the  back  of  hapless  Bruin. 

There  are  many  other  methods  of  setting  the  Dead-fall,  sev- 
eral of  which  appear  in  another  section  of  this  book.  The 
above  is  the  one  more  commonly  used  for  the  capture  of  Bears, 


20  TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 

but  the  others  are  equally  applicable  and  effective  when  en- 
larged to  the  proper  size. 

In  South  America  and  other  countries,  where  Lions,  Tigers, 
Leopards,  and  Jaguars  abound,  these  and  other  rude  extempore 
traps  are  almost  the  only  ones  used,  and  are  always  very  suc- 
cessful. The  pit-fall  often  allures  the  Bengal  Tiger  to  his  de- 
struction, and  the  Leopard  often  terminates  his  career  at  the 
muzzle  of  a  rifle  baited  as  seen  in  our  page  illustration.  A  gun 
thus  arranged  forms  a  most  sure  and  deadly  trap,  and  one  which 
may  be  easily  extemporized  at  a  few  moments'  warning,  in  cases 
of  emergency.  The  Puma  of  our  northern  forests,  although 
by  no  means  so  terrible  a  foe  as  the  Leopard,  is  still  a  blood- 
thirsty creature,  and  while  he  shuns  the  gaze  of  man  with  the 
utmost  fear,  he  is  nevertheless  constantly  on  the  alert  to  spring 
upon  him  unawares,  either  in  an  unguarded  moment  or  during 
sleep.  A  hungry  Puma,  who  excites  suspicion  by  his  stealthy 
prowling  and  ominous  growl,  may  easily  be  led  to  his  destruction 
at  the  muzzle  of  a  gun,  baited  as  we  shall  now  describe. 


THE   GUN   TRAP. 

After  a  Puma  has  succeeded  in  capturing  his  prey,  and  has 
satisfied  his  appetite  by  devouring  a  portion  of  its  carcass,  he 
leaves  the  remainder  for  a  second  meal,  and  his  early  return  to 
a  second  banquet  is  almost  a  matter  of  certainty.  Where  such 
a  remnant  of  a  bygone  feast  is  found,  the  capture  of  the  Cou- 
gar is  an  easy  matter.  Any  carcass  left  in  a  neighborhood 
where  Pumas  are  known  to  exist  is  sure  to  attract  them,  and 
day  after  day  its  bulk  will  be  found  to  decrease  until  the  bones 
only  remain.  By  thus  "  baiting  "  a  certain  place  and  drawing 
the  Pumas  thither,  the  way  is  paved  for  their  most  certain  de- 
struction. The  gun-trap  is  very  simply  constructed,  and  may 
be  put  in  working  order  in  a  very  few  moments.  The  weapon 
may  be  a  rifle  or  shot-gun.  In  the  latter  case  it  should  be  heav- 
ily loaded  with  buck-shot.  The  stock  should  be  first  firmly  tied 
to  some  tree,  or  secured  in  a  stout  crotch  driven  into  the 
ground,  the  barrel  being  similarly  supported. 

The  gun  should  be  about  three  feet  from  the  ground,  and 
should  be  aimed  at  some  near  tree  to  avoid  possible  accident  to 
a  chance  passer-by  within  its  range.  The  gun  should  then  be 
cocked,  but  7iot  capped^  due  caution  being  always  used,  and  the 
cap  adjusted  the  very  last  thing  after  the  trap  is  baited  and 


THE   GUN    TRAP. 


21 


set.     Where  a  rifle  is  used,  the  cartridge  should  not  be  insert- 
ed until  the  last  thing. 

It  is  next  necessary  to  cut  a  small  sapling  about  a  foot  or  two 
in  length.  Its  diameter  should  allow  it  to  fit  snugly  inside  the 
guard  in  front  of  the  trigger,  without  springing  the  hammer. 
Its  other  end  should  now  be  supported  by  a  very  slight  crotch, 
as  shown  in  our  illustration.  Another  sapHng  should  next  be 
procured,  its  length  being  sufficient  to  reach  from  the  muzzle  of 
the  gun  to  the  end  of  the  first  stick,  and  having  a  branch  stub 
or  hook  on  one  end.  The  other  extremity  should  be  attached 
by  a  string  to  the  tip  of  the  first  stick. 


^^^^^^^^^ 


Now  take  a  portion  of  the  carcass  and  draw  it  firmly  over  the 
hook  in  the  long  stick.  Prop  the  latter  in  such  a  position  as 
that  the  bait  shall  hang  directly  in  front  of  the  muzzle.  The 
crotch  supporting  the  bait  stick  should  be  firmly  implanted  in 
the  ground  in  order  to  hold  the  bait  from  being  drawn  to  either 
side  of  the  muzzle. 

The  gun-trap  is  now  set,  and  its  merits  may  be  tested.  Be- 
fore adjusting  the  cap  the  pieces  should  be  tried  several  times 
to  insure  their  perfect  working.  A  slight  pull  on  the  bait  from 
the  front  will  draw  the  short  stick  forward.     This  immediately 


22  TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 

acts  on  the  trigger  and  causes  the  hammer  to  snap.  By  a  few 
trials,  the  sticks  can  be  arranged  so  as  to  spring  the  trigger 
easily,  and  where  a  hair  trigger  is  used,  a  mere  touch  on  the 
bait  will  suffice  to  discharge  the  gun.  When  all  is  found  to 
work  perfectly,  the  trap  should  be  surrounded  by  a  rude  pen  of 
sticks  and  branches,  extending  two  or  three  feet  beyond  the 
muzzle,  in  order  to  insure  an  approach  directly  in  the  aim  of  the 
gun.  The  cap  should  now  be  placed  on  the  nipple,  after  which 
the  deadly  device  may  be  left  to  do  its  certain  work.  The  re- 
maining portion  of  the  carcass  should  be  removed,  and  w^here 
the  locality  is  likely  to  be  frequented  by  other  hunters  or  trap- 
pers, it  is  well  to  put  up  a  ''  danger  "  signal  to  guard  against  ac- 
cident. If  desired  two  or  three  guns  may  be  arranged  like  the 
spokes  of  a  wheel,  all  aiming  near  the  bait.  Even  with  one 
gun  the  victim  stands  but  little  chance,  but  where  two  or  three 
pour  their  contents  into  his  body,  his  death  is  an  absolute  cer- 
tainty. 

I^y  fastening  the  gun  three  feet  above  ground  the  load  is  dis- 
charged upward  into  the  mouth  of  its  victim,  and  thus  directly 
through  the  brain.  Where  two  or  more  guns  are  used,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  aim  at  least  one  in  such  a  direction  as  will  send  its 
charge  into  the  breast  of  the  animal. 

The  Indian  Panther  is  very  commonly  taken  by  the  gun  trap, 
and  even  Lions  are  sometimes  secured  by  the  same  device,  only 
increased  in  power  by  a  larger  number  of  guns. 

There  are  several  other  methods  of  setting  the  gun  trap.  One 
way  consists  in  attaching  a  string  to  the  finger  piece  of  the  trigger, 
passing  it  back  through  a  small  staple  or  screw  eye  inserted  in 
the  under  side  of  the  stock  for  that  purpose,  and  then  drawing 
the  string  forward  and  attaching  it  to  the  top  of  the  bait  stick. 
This  latter  is  stuck  in  the  ground  directly  in  front  of  the  muzzle  and 
the  bait  secured  to  its  extremity.  When  the  temi^ting  morsel  is 
grasped,  the  bait  stick  is  drawn  forward  and  the  string  pulled, 
the  result  of  course  being  the  discharge  of  the  gun.  By  still 
another  method,  an  elastic  is  passed  through  the  screw  eye  in 
the  stock  and  over  the  finger  piece  of  the  trigger,  thus  tending 
continually  to  draw  it  back  and  spring  the  hammer.  To  set  the 
gun  a  short  stick  is  inserted  beiiind  the  finger  piece,  thus  over- 
coming the  power  of  the  elastic.  It  should  be  very  delicately 
adjusted,  so  that  a  mere  touch  will  dislodge  it  Its  length 
should  be  about  six  inches,  and  to  its  other  end  the  bait  stick 
should  be  attached  and  arranged  as  first  described.  Although 
a  rather  dangerous  trap  to  be  set  at  random  it  is  nevertheless 


THE    BOW   TRAP. 


23 


often  utilized  and  has  brought  many  a  dreaded  marauder  to  his 
doom. 

The  bear,  lynx,  and  other  large  animals  arc  sometimes  taken 
Ijy  the  gun  trap,  but  it  is  most  generally  set  for  the  Puma. 


THE  BOW   TRAP. 


This  device  does  duty  in  India  and  Southern  Asia,  where  it  is 
known  as  the  tiger  trap. 


It  is  easily  constructed  as  follows  :  First  cut  a  stout  board  five 
inches  in  width,  two  and  a  half  feet  in  length  and  about  two 
inches  in  thickness.  Shave  off  one  end  to  a  point  so  that  it  may 
be  driven  into  the  ground.  At  the  other  extremity,  in  the  mid- 
die  of  the  board  and  about  two  inches  from  the  edge,  a  hole  one 
half  an  inch  in  diameter  and  three  quarters  of  an  inch  in  height, 
should  be  made  ;  two  auger  holes,  one  directly  above  the  other, 
with  the  sides  flatly  trimmed,  will  answer  perfectly.  The  arrow 
should  next  be  constructed.  This  should  be  made  of  seasoned  oak 
or  ash,  two  feet  in  length,  perfectly  straight,  smooth  and  round, 

3 


24 


TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 


and  one  third  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  One  end  should  be 
notched  for  the  bow  string  and  vaned  with  thin  feathers  after  the 
manner  of  ordinary  arrows.  The  other  extremity  should  be  armed 
with  a  steel  barb  sharply  pointed,  and  firmly  riveted  in  place.  Any 
blacksmith  can  forge  such  a  tip  ;  the  shaj^^e  of  which  is  plainly 
seen  in  our  engraving.  The  bow  should  consist  of  a  piece  of 
stout  seasoned  hickory,  oak  or  ash  four  feet  long,  if  such  a  bow 
is  not  at  hand,  a  stout  sapling  may  be  used.  The  bow  string 
may  consist  of  cat-gut,  or  stout  Indian  twine. 

Before  setting  the  trap,  it  is  advisable  to  attract  the  game  to 
the  spot  selected  as  already  alluded  to  in  connection  with  the 
gun  trap,  and  particularly  so  when  the  Puma  is  the  victim  sought. 
In  our  illustration  we  see  the  trap  as  it  appears  when  set,  and 
the  same  precaution,  of  aiming  at  some  tree  should  be  exercised 
as  advised  with  the  gun  trap.  The  bow  should  first  be  secured 
in  place  directly  beneath  and  one  eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  edge 
of  the  hole  in  the  board,  as  seen  at(^).  Two  large  wire  staples  may 

be  used  for  this  pur- 
pose, being  passed 
over  the  bow  through 
holes  in  the  board 
and  clinched  on  the 
opposite  side.  The 
bend  of  the  bow  and 
length  of  string 
should  now  be  de- 
termined, one  end 
of  the  latter  being 
attached  to  the  tip 
of  the  bow  and  the 
ether  end  supplied  with  a  loop.  The  board  should  then  be  driven 
into  the  ground  to  the  depth  of  about  eight  inches.  We  will 
next  take  up  the  arrow.  Pass  the  barb  through  the  hole  in  the 
board  and  adjust  the  notch  over  the  bow-string,  draw  the  arrow 
back  and  release  the  string.  If  the  arrow  slide  easily  and 
swiftly,  through  the  board,  keeping  true  to  its  aim,  the  contri- 
vance is  in  perfect  working  order  and  is  ready  to  be  set.  ^  This 
is  accomplished  by  the  very  simple  and  ingenious  mechanical  ar- 
rangement, shown  at  (b).  On  the  under  side  of  the  arrow  just 
behind  the  barb,  a  flat  notch  one  eighth  of  an  inch  in  depth  and 
two  and  a  half  inches  in  length  is  cut,  with  rounded  ends,  as 
seen  in  the  illustration.  The  bait  stick  should  consist  of  a  sap- 
ling about  three  feet  in  length,  the  large  end  being  trimmed  so 


THE    BOW    TRAP.  25 

as  to  fit  in  the  hole  over  the  arrow  while   the  notch  in  the  latter 
rests  in  the  bottom  of  the  aperture  as  seen  in  the  illustration  {b). 

The  trap  may  then 
beset.  Drawback 
the  arrow,  until  the 
notch  rests  in  the 
hole  in  the  board. 
Insert  the  bait 
stick  ve7y  lightly 
above  the  arrow 
as  shown  at  {b\ 
propping  it  in  place 
at  the  angle  seen 
in  the  main  drawing.  The  bait  for  a  puma  should  consist 
of  a  portion  of  some  carcass,  or  if  for  other  animals,  any 
of  the  baits  given  in  our  section,  on  "  trapping  "  may  be  used.  In 
order  to  secure  the  bait  firmly  to  the  bait  stick,  a  small  hole  and 
a  peg  at  the  side  of  the  baited  end  will  effectually  prevent  its 
removal  and  the  trap  will  thus  most  surely  be  sprung.  The 
prop  which  sustains  the  bait  stick  need  be  only  a  small  crotch 
inserted  a  little  to  one  side  of  the  trap.  The  bow  should  now 
be  surrounded  by  a  wide  pen,  allowing  room  for  the  spring  of 
the  ends.  The  top  of  the  enclosure  should  also  be  guarded  by 
a  few  sticks  or  branches  laid  across.  Directly  in  front  of  the  trap 
and  extending  from  it,  a  double  row  of  rough  stakes  three  feet 
high  should  be  constructed,  thus  insuring  an  approach  in  the 
direct  range  of  the  arrow.  Without  this  precaution  the  bait  might 
be  approached  from  the  side,  and  the  arrow  pass  beneath  the 
head  of  the  animal,  whereas  on  the  other  hand  it  is  sure  to  take 
effect  in  the  neck  or  breast  of  its  victim.  Of  course  the  success  of 
this  trap  depends  entirely  upon  the  strength  of  the  bow.  When 
a  large  and  powerful  one  is  used  its  effect  is  almost  surely 
fatal. 

Another  form  of  the  bow  trap,  much  used  in  the  capture 
of  the  tiger,  forms  the  subject  of  our  next  illustration  ;  no  bait 
is  here  used.  The  trap  is  set  at  the  side  of  the  beaten  path  of 
the  tiger  and  is  sprung  by  the  animal  pressing  against  a  string 
in  passing.  Tlie  bow  is  large  and  powerful  and  is  secured  to 
two  uprio^ht  posts  about  eight  inches  apart.  The  string  is  drawn 
back  and  a  blunt  stick  is  then  inserted  between  the  bow  string 
and  the  inside  centre  of  the  bow,  thus  holding  the  latter  in  a  bent 
position.  A  stout  stick,  with  a  flattened  end  is  next  inserted 
between  the  end  of  the  blunt  stick  and  the  inside  of  the  bow,  the 


26 


TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 


remaining  part  of  the  stick  extending  downwards,  as  cur  illus- 
tration shows.  To  the  lower  end  of  this  stick  a  string  is  attached 
and  carried  across  the  path  in  the  direct  range  of  the  arrow, 
being  secured  to  a  stake  on  the  opposite  side.  The  arrow  is 
generally  barbed  with  a  steel  or  flint  point,  and  wound  with  thread 
saturated  with  a  deadly  poison.  This  is  now  rested  on  the  top 
of  the  bow  between  the  upright  parts,  and  its  notch  caught  in 
the  bow-string.  Everything  is  then  in  readiness.  The  tiger 
soon  steals  along  his  beaten  track.  He  comes  nearer  and 
nearer  the  trap  until  at  last  his  breast  presses  the  string.  Twang, 
goes  the  bow  and  the  arrow  is  imbedded  in  the  flesh  of  its  victim. 
He  writhes  for  a  few  moments,  until  he  is  released  from  his 
torments  by  the  certain  death  which  follows  the  course  of  the 
poison  through  his  veins. 


The  use  of  the  poison  is  very  dangerous :  a  mere  scratch 
through  the  skin  is  likely  to  prove  fatal,  and  the  trapper  is 
thus  likely  to  prove  his  own  victim.  Poisoned  arrows  are  little 
used  by  trappers;  and  the  bow  trap,  when  properly  con- 
structed, is  sufficiently  effective  without  the  venom. 


THE   DOWN-FALL. 


This  is  the  famous  harpoon  trap,  so  commonly  used  in  Africa 
for  the  capture  of  the  hippopotamus.     There  is  no  reason  why 


THE   DOWN- FALL. 


?7 


it  may  not  be  successfully  employed  in 
our  own  country  for  taking  large  game,  or 
modified  on  a  reduced  scale  for  smaller 
animals. 

The  hippopotamus  makes  his  daily 
rounds  in  regular  beaten  pathways  ;  and 
the  trapper,  knowing  this  peculiarity, 
turns  it  to  advantage.  This  is  a  common 
habit  with  many  animals  ;  and  these  "  run- 
ways "  are  easily  detected  by  the  matted 
leaves  and  grass  and  the  broken  twigs. 
Over  such  a  beaten  track  the  harpoon-trap  is  suspended. 

The  harpoon  used  by  the  native  African  trappers  somewhat 
resembles  a  double-barbed  arrowhead,  and  has  a  reflexed  prong 
on  the  shaft  just  behind  the  barbs,  —  a  sort  of  combination  be- 
tween a  spear  and  a  fish-hook.  It  is  a  terrible  weapon ;  and, 
when  once  launched  into  the  flesh  of  its  victim,  its  withdrawal 
is  impossible,  on  account  of  the  reflexed  barb.  Any  sharp  steel 
shaft  will  answer  the  purpose  of  the  harpoon ;  it  should  be 
eight  or  ten  inches  in  length,  and  filed  to  a  keen  point.  We 
will  now  construct  the  trap.  The  first  requisite  is  a  straight 
section  of  the  branch  of  some  tree.  This  should  be  about  four 
inches  in  diameter,  and  four  feet  in  length.  Into  one  end  of 
this  beam  the  harpoon  should  be  firmly  imbedded,  allowing  the 
point  to  project  about  six  inches.     This  beam  should  then  be 


2S  TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 

weighted  with  two  large  stones,  attached  firmly  by  a  rope, 
about  eighteen  inches  above  the  harpoon.  At  about  six 
inches  from  the  other  end  of  the  log  a  notch  should  be  cut, 
having  its  flat  side  uppermost,  as  shown  plainly  in  our  illustra- 
tion.    The  implement  is  now  ready. 

Select  some  favorably  situated  tree,  whose  branches  ex- 
tend over  the  pathway  chosen  for  the  trap.  By  the  aid  of  a 
rope  secured  to  the  log,  and  thrown  over  the  limb,  the  weighted 
beara  may  be  drawn  up  into  the  tree.  While  thus  held  by  a 
person  below,  the  trapper  should  climb  the  tree  to  complete 
operations.  For  this  purpose,  a  smaller  branch  about  three 
feet  in  length  should  be  cut.  One  end  should  be  flattened  off 
on  both  sides,  so  as  to  fit  in  the  notch  in  the  beam ;  and  the 
part  which  rests  on  the  limb,  as  seen  in  the  illustration,  should 
also  be  flattened  to  prevent  turning.  A  piece  of  stout  Indian 
twine  should  next  be  fastened  to  the  unwhittled  end  of  the 
stick,  which  may  then  be  adjusted  in  the  notch  of  the  har- 
poon beam,  as  seen  in  the  engraving.  The  string  may  then  be 
thrown  down,  and  grasped  by  the  companion  below,  who  holds 
it  firmly,  after  which  the  original  rope  may  be  removed.  It 
will  be  noticed  that  the  weight  of  the  harpoon  and  accomj^ani- 
ments  rests  on  the  short  arm  of  the  lever  which  passes  over  the 
limb  of  the  tree,  and  the  tension  on  the  string  from  the  long  arm 
is  thus  very  slight.  This  precaution  is  necessary  for  the  per- 
fect working  of  the  trap.  To  complete  the  contrivance,  a 
small  peg  with  a  rounded  notch  should  be  cut,  and  driven  into 
the  ground  directly  plumb  beneath  the  long  end  of  the  lever. 
It  should  be  inserted  into  the  earth  only  sufficiently  to  hold  the 
string  without  pulling  out,  and  the  side  of  the  notch  should  face 
the  path  ;  its  height  should  be  about  a  foot.  Into  the  notch 
the  string  should  be  passed,  being  afterwards  drawn  across  the 
path  and  secured  on  the  opposite  side  at  the  sam.e  height. 
The  trap  is  now  set ;  and  woe  to  the  unlucky  quadruped  that 
dares  make  too  free  with  that  string  !  A  very  slight  pressure 
from  either  side  is  equally  liable  to  slip  the  string  from  the  notch, 
or  loosen  the  peg  from  the  ground  ;  and  the  result  is  the  same 
in  either  case,  —  down  comes  the  weighted  harpoon,  carrying 
death  and  destruction  to  its  victim. 

For  large  animals,  this  mode  of  setting  will  be  found  to  work 
perfectly.  When  constructed  on  a  smaller  scale,  it  may  be 
slightly  modified.  It  will  be  noticed  that,  when  the  string  is 
approached  from  one  side,  it  is  merely  slipped  out  of  the  notch, — 
a  slight  pressure  being  sufficient  to  dislodge  it, — while  the  pres- 


THE    BEAR   TRAP. 


29 


sure  from  the  opposite  direction  must  be  stronor  cnousjh  to  lift  the 
peg  out  of  the  ground  bodily.  This  is  easily  done  v/hen  tlie  peg 
is  lightly  inserted  ;  but,  to  insure  success,  even  with  light  pres- 
sure from  either  side,  an  additional  precaution  may  be  used,  if 
desired.  Instead  of  fastening  the  end  of  the  string  securely  to 
some  object  on  the  further  side  of  the  path,  it  is  well  to  provide 
the  end  of  the  cord  with  a  ring  or  loop,  which  should  be  passed 
over  a  nail  or  short  peg  driven  in  some  tree  or  branch,  or  fas- 
tened into  an  upright  stake,  firmly  embedded  into  the  ground. 
The  nail  should  point  in  the  opposite  direction  from  the  notch 
in  the  peg,  and  its  angle  should  incline  slightly  toward  the 
path.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  an  approach  from  one  side 
forces  the  string  from  the  notch  in  the  peg,  while  an  opposite 
pressure  slides  the  ring  from  the  nail. 

This  mode  of  setting  is  especially  desirable  for  small  ani- 
mals, on  account  of  its  being  more  sensitive. 

Such  a  trap  may  be  successfully  used  for  the  puma,  bear,  and 
the  lynx.  When  constructed  for  smaller  animals,  the  harpoon 
may  be  dispensed  with,  a  large  stone  being  equally  effective  in 
its  death-dealing  qualities 


THE   BEAR   TRAP. 

This  trap  is  constructed  after  the  idea  of  the  old-fashioned 
box  or  rabbit  trap,  and  has  been  the  means  of  securing  many  a 
hungry  bear,  or  even  puma,  whose  voracity  has  exceeded  its 
cunning.  The  lynx  and  wild-cat  are  also  among  its  occasional 
victims  ;  and  inasmuch  as  its  prisoners  are  taken  alive  great 
sport  is  often  realized  before  the  captive  is  brought  under 
control. 

Our  illustration  gives  a  very  clear  idea  of  the  affair.  The 
sides  are  built  of  stout  young  tree-trunks,  cut  into  sections  and 
firmly  driven  into  the  ground  close  together.  For  a  large  animal, — 
a  bear,  for  instance, — the  enclosure  should  be  about  seven  feet 
deep,  two  and  a  half  feet  wide,  and  four  feet  high.  The  top 
should  be  built  in  with  the  sides,  after  the  manner  of  the  log 
cabin,  described  in  page  (244.)  The  two  posts  at  the  entrance 
should  be  first  set  up.  On  the  back  side  of  each,  near  the  end, 
a  deep  notch  should  be  cut  for  the  reception  of  the  cross  piece 
at  the  top.  This  should  likewise  be  notched  in  a  similar  manner 
on  both  sides  of  each  end,  so  as  to  fit  singly  into  the  notches  in 
the  uprights  on  the  one  side,  and  into  the  second  pair  of  uprights 


30 


TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 


on  the  other.  These  latter  shomd  next  be  inserted  lirmly  into 
the  ground,  having  been  previously  notched  on  both  sides  of 
their  upper  ends,  as  described  for  the  cross  piece.  They  may 
either  be  fixed  in  place  and  the  cross  piece  sprung  in  between 
them  at  the  top,  or  the  latter  may  be  held  in  the  notches  of  the 
first  pair,  while  the  second  are  being  inserted.  Continue  thus 
until  the  full  length  of  the  sides  are  reached,  when  the  end  may 
be  closed  by  an  upright  wall  of  plain  logs,  either  hammered  into 
the  ground,  after  the  manner  of  the  sides,  or  arranged  one  above 
another  in  notches  between  the  two  end  uprights.  The  sliding 
door  is  next  required.   This  should  be  large  enough  to  cover  the 


opening,  and  should  be  made  of  stout  board  slabs,  firmly  secured 
by  cross  pieces.  It  should  be  made  to  slide  smoothly  into 
grooves  cut  into  perpendicular  logs  situated  on  each  side  of 
the  opening,  or  may  be  arranged  to  slip  easily  between  the 
flattened  side  of  one  log  on  each  side  and  the  front  of  the  pen. 
Either  way  works  well.  In  the  latter  an  additional  upright  or 
short  board  should  be  inserted  in  the  ground  at  the  edges  of 
the  sliding  door,  to  prevent  the  latter  from  being  forced  to  either 
side  by  the  efforts  of  the  enclosed  captive. 

There  are  two  or  three  ways  of  setting  the  trap,  depending 
upon  the  desired  game.  For  a  bear  it  is  arranged  as  in  our 
illustration.     An  upright  post,  two  feet  in  length,  should  be  cut 


THE   PIT-FALL.  3I 

to  an  edge  at  one  end,  and  wedged  in  between  the  logs  at  the 
top  of  the  trap,  near  the  middle.  Across  the  top  of  this,  a  pole 
seven  feet  in  length,  should  be  rested ;  one  end  being  attached 
by  a  loop,  or  secured  in  a  notch  in  the  sliding  door,  and  the 
other  supplied  with  a  strong  string  about  four  feet  in  length, 
with  a  stick  eight  inches  in  length  secured  to  its  end.  Through 
the  centre  log,  in  the  back  of  the  pen,  and  about  two  feet  from 
the  ground,  an  auger  hole  should  be  made.  The  bait  stick  with 
bait  attached  should  be  inserted  through  this  hole  from  the  in- 
side, and  the  spindle  caught  on  the  outside  beween  its  projecting 
end  and  a  nail  driven  in  the  adjoining  upright.  This  principle  is 
clearly  illustrated  on  page  105  at(^),  and,  if  desired,  the  method 
(J?)  may  be  used  also.  For  a  bear,  the  bait  should  consist  of  a 
piece  of  meat  scented  with  burnt  honey-comb.  The  odor  of 
honey  will  tempt  a  bear  into  almost  any  trap,  and  even  into  such 
close  quarters  as  the  above  he  will  enter  without  the  slightest 
suspicion,  when  a  feast  of  honey  is  in  view. 

For  the  cougar,  or  puma,  the  best  bait  is  a  live  lamb  or  a 
young  pig,  encaged  in  a  small  pen  erected  at  the  end  of  the  trap. 
A  fowl  is  also  excellent.  When  thus  baited,  the  setting  of  the 
trap  is  varied.  The  upright  post  at  the  top  of  the  trap  is  in- 
serted nearer  the  front,  and  the  cross  pole  is  stouter.  The 
auger  hole  is  bored  in  the  top  of  the  trap,  through  the  centre 
of  one  of  the  logs,  and  about  twenty  inches  from  the  back  end 
of  the  trap.  The  spindle  is  dispensed  with  and  the  end  of  the 
string  is  provided  with  a  large  knot,  which  is  lowered  through 
the  auger  hole,  and  is  prevented  from  slipping  back  by  the 
insertion  of  a  stick  beneath.  This  stick  should  be  about  three 
feet  in  length,  and  of  such  a  size  at  the  end  as  will  snugly  fit 
into  the  auger  hole.  It  should  be  inserted  delicately,  merely 
enough  to  hold  the  knot  from  slipping  back,  and  so  as  to  be 
easily  released  by  a  slight  movement  in  any  direction. 

This  mode  of  setting  is  more  fully  detailed  on  page  52.  As 
the  puma  steals  in  upon  his  prey  he  dislodges  the  stick,  the  lid 
falls,  and  he  finds  himself  imprisoned  with  his  intended  victim. 
This  trap  is  much  used  in  India  and  Asia  for  the  capture  of  the 
tiger,  and  the  jaguar  of  South  America  is  frequently  entrapped 
by  the  same  devices. 

THE   PIT-FALL. 

The  tiger  is  the  scourge  of  India  and  Southern  Asia,  and 
some  sections  of  these  countries  are  so  terribly  infested  with 


32  TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 

the  brutes  that  the  inhabitants  arc  kept  in  a  continual  state  of 
terror  by  their  depredations.  Many  methods  are  adopted  by 
the  natives  for  the  destruction  of  the  terrible  creatures,  some 
of  which  have  already  been  described.  The  pit-fall  is  still  an- 
other device  by  which  this  lurking  marauder  is  often  captured 
and  destroyed.  It  sometimes  consists  of  a  mere  pit  covered 
and  baited  in  the  haunts  of  the  tiger,  or  is  constructed  in  a  con- 
tinuous deep  ditch  surrounding  the  habitations  of  the  natives, 
and  thus  acting  as  a  secure  protection.  The  pit  is  about  twelve 
feet  deep  and  ten  feet  in  width,  and  its  outside  edge  is  lined 
with  a  hedge  five  or  six  feet  in  height.  As  the  fierce  brute 
steals  upon  his  intended  prey,  he  nears  the  hedge  and  atone 
spring  its  highest  branch  is  cleared.  He  reaches  the  earth  only 
to  find  himself  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  pit,  from  which  there  is 
no  hope  of  escape,  and  where  he  speedily  becomes  the  merciless 
victim  of  a  shower  of  deadly  arrows  and  bullets. 

Happily  we  have  no  tigers  in  the  United  States,  but  the 
puma  and  the  lynx  are  both  fit  subjects  for  the  pit-fall.  These 
animals  cannot  be  said  to  exist  in  such  numbers  as  to  become 
a  scourge  and  a  stranger  to  the  inhabitants  of  any  neighbor- 
hood, and  for  this  reason  the  "  Moat "  arrangement  of  the 
pit-fall  is  not  required.  The  simple  pit  is  often  used,  and  when 
properly  constructed  and  baited  is  a  very  sicre  trap.  The  hole 
should  be  about  twelve  feet  in  depth  and  eight  feet  across, 
widening  at  the  bottom.  Its  opening  should  be  covered  with 
sticks,  earth  and  leaves,  so  arranged  as  to  resemble  the  sur- 
roundings as  much  as  possible,  but  so  lightly  adjusted  as  that 
they  will  easily  give  way  at  a  slight  pressure.  One  edge  of  the 
opening  should  now  be  closely  built  up  with  stakes  firmly  in- 
serted into  the  ground,  and  so  constructed  as  to  form  a  small 
pen  in  the  middle,  in  which  to  secure  the  bait,  generally  a  live 
turkey,  goose,  or  other  fowl.  The  other  three  sides  should  also 
be  hedged  in  by  a  single  row  of  upright  stakes  three  or  four 
feet  in  height,  and  a  few  inches  apart  in  order  that  the  hungry 
puma  may  whet  his  appetite  by  ghmpses  between  them. 

They  should  be  firmly  imbedded  in  the  earth  directly  at  the 
edge  of  the  pit,  and  as  far  as  possible  trimmed  of  their  branches 
on  the  inside.  There  will  thus  be  a  small  patch  of  solid  ground 
for  the  feet  of  the  fowl,  which  should  be  tied  by  the  \^g  in  the 
enclosure.  Our  trap  is  now  set,  and  if  there  is  a  puma  in  the 
neighborhood  he  will  be  sure  to  pay  it  a  call  and  probably  a 
visit. 

Spying  his  game,  he  uses  every  effort  to  reach  it  through  the 


THE    LOJ    COOP    TRAP. 


33 


crevices  between  the  stakes.  The  cries  of  the  frightened  fowl 
arouse  and  stimulate  his  appetite,  and  at  last  exasperated  by 
his  futile  efforts  to  seize  his  victim,  he  springs  over  the  fence  of 
stakes  and  is  lodged  in  the  depths  of  the  pit. 

The  puma  is  very  agile  of  movement,  and  unless  the  pit  is  at 
least  twelve  feet  in  depth  there  is  danger  of  his  springing  out. 
Any  projecting  branch  on  the  inside  of  the  stakes  affords  a 
grasp  for  his  ready  paw,  and  any  such  branch,  if  within  the 
reach  of  his  leap,  is  sure  to  effect  his  escape.  For  this  reason 
it  is  advisable  to  trim  smoothly  all  the  projections  and  leave  no 
stub  or  knot  hole  by  which  he  could  gain  the  slightest  hold. 
The  construction  of  a  pit-fall  is  a  rather  difficult  operation  on 
account  of  the  digging  which  it  necessitates.  On  this  account 
it  is  not  so  much  used  as  many  other  traps  which  are  not  only 
equally  effective  but  much  more  easily  constructed.  The  fol- 
lowing is  an  example  : — 


THE  LOG   COOP  TRAP. 

This  is  commonly  set  for  bears,  although  a  deer  or  a  puma 
becomes  its  frequent  tenant.  As  its  nameimplies  it  consists  of 
a  coop  of  logs,  arranged  after  the  principle  of  the  Coop  Trap 
described  on  page  67.  The  logs  should  be  about  eight  feet 
in  length,  notched  at  the  ends  as  described  for  the  Log 
Cabin,  page  (244).  Lay  two  of  the  logs  parallel  about  seven 
feet  apart.  Across  their  ends  in  the  notches,  lay  two  others 
and  continue  building  up  in  "  cob-house  "  fashion  until  the 
height  of  about  six  feet  is  reached.  The  corners  may  be  se- 
cured as  they  are  laid  by  spikes,  or  they  may  be  united  after- 
ward in  mass  by  a  rope  firmly  twisted  about  them  from  top  to 
bottom.  Logs  should  now  be  laid  across  the  top  of  the  coop 
and  firmly  secured  by  the  spikes  or  rope  knots.  There  are 
several  ways  of  setting  the  trap.  A  modification  of  that  describ- 
ed on  page  6"j  works  very  well,  or  an  arrangement  of  spindle  and 
bait  stick,  as  in  the  Box  Trap,  page  105,  may  also  be  employ- 
ed. In  the  latter  case,  the  bait  stick  is  either  inserted  between 
the  logs  at  the  back  of  the  coop,  or  a  hole  is  bored  through  one 
of  them  for  this  purpose.  For  this  mode  of  setting,  the  coop 
should  be  constructed  beneath  some  tree.  It  is  set  by  means  of 
a  rope  attached  to  the  upper  edge  of  one  of  its  sides,  the  rope 
being  thrown  over  a  limb  of  the  tree  and  the  loose  end  brought 
down  and  secured  to  the  bait  stick  by  a  spindle,  as  described 


34  TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 

for  the  trap  on  page  (195).  The  hmb  here  acts  in  place  of  the 
tall  end  piece  of  the  Box  Trap,  and  by  raising  the  coop  up  to 
such  an  angle  as  that  it  will  be  nearly  poised,  the  setting  may 
be  made  so  delicate  that  a  mere  touch  on  the  bait  stick  from 
the  interior  will  dislodge  the  pieces  and  let  fall  the  enclosure. 
The  simplest  vaodo.  of  setting  the  trap  is  that  embodied  in  the 
"•  snare  "  method  on  page  (52).  The  rope  is  here  provided 
with  a  knot,  which  must  pass  easily  between  the  logs,  or 
through  the  hole  at  the  back  of  the  coop,  the  length  of  rope 
being  so  arranged  as  that  the  coop  shall  be  sufficiently  raised 
where  the  knot  projects  into  the  interior.  The  introduction  of 
the  bait  stick  beneath  the  knot  will  thus  prevent  the  latter  from 
being  drawn  back,  and  thus  our  trap  is  set.  The  bait  stick  in 
any  case  should  be  about  two  feet  in  length  ;  and  with  this 
leverage  but  a  shght  touch  will  be  required  to  sj)ring  the  pieces. 
In  the  latter  method  the  limb  of  the  tree  is  not  necessary.  A 
stout  crotched  stake  driven  into  the  ground  about  twenty  feet, 
at  the  back  of  the  coop,  will  answer  every  purpose,  and  the  coop 
may  be  constructed  wherever  desired.  This  is  a  most  excellent 
trap  for  large  animals.  It  secures  the  game  alive,  and  is  thus 
often  productive  of  most  exciting  sport.  For  the  bear,  the 
bait  should  consist  of  honey  or  raw  meat.  Full  directions  for 
baiting  all  kinds  of  American  game  are  given  under  their  respec- 
tive heads  in  another  part  of  this  book.  The  Coop  Trap  may 
be  constructed  of  any  dimensions,  from  the  small  example  on 
page  (67)  to  the  size  above  described. 

There  are  several  other  inventions  commonly  used  for  the 
capture  of  large  animals  in  various  parts  of  the  globe,  which 
would  be  of  little  avail  in  this  country.  Such  is  the  African 
Corrall,  or  Hopo,  by  which  whole  herds  of  quaggas,  elands,  and 
buffalo  are  often  destroyed.  The  trap  consists  of  two  hedges 
in  the  form  of  the  letter  V,  which  are  very  high  and  thick  at 
the  angle.  Instead  of  the  hedges  being  joined  at  this  point, 
they  are  made  to  form  a  lane  about  two  hundred  feet  in  length, 
at  the  extremity  of  v/hich  a  giant  pit  is  formed.  Trunks  of 
trees  are  laid  across  the  margins  to  prevent  the  animals  from 
escaping.  The  opening  of  this  pit  is  then  covered  with  light 
reeds  and  small  green  boughs.  The  hedges  often  extend  miles 
in  length  and  are  equally  as  far  apart  at  these  extremities.  The 
tribe  of  hunters  make  a  circle,  three  or  four  miles  around  the 
country  adjacent  to  the  opening,  and  gradually  closing  up  are 
almost  sure  to  enclose  a  large  body  of  game,  which,  by  shouts 
and  skilfully  hurled  javelins,  they  drive  into  the  narrowing  walls 


THE   NET   TRAP.  35 

of  the  Hopo.  The  affrighted  animals  rush  headlong  to  the  gate 
presented  at  the  end  of  the  converging  hedges  and  here  plunge 
pell-mell  into  the  pit,  which  is  soon  filled  with  a  living  mass. 
Some  escape  by  running  over  the  others ;  and  the  natives,  wild 
with  excitement,  spear  the  poor  animals  with  mad  delight, 
while  others  of  the  brutes  are  smothered  and  crushed  by  the 
weight  of  their  dead  and  dying  companions.  It  is  a  most  cruel 
and  inhuman  device,  and  its  effects  are  sometimes  appalling. 


THE  NET  TRAP. 

The  lion  and  tiger  are  often  taken  in  a  net,  v/hich  is  secured 
to  a  frame  work  and  suspended  over  a  tempting  bait.  When 
the  latter  is  touched  the  net  falls,  and  the  victim  becomes  en- 
tangled in  the  meshes  and  is  securely  caught.  So  far  as  we 
know,  this  mode  of  capture  is  never  tried  in  this  country.  For 
the  puma,  lynx  and  wild-cat  we  fancy  it  might  work  admirably. 
The  net  should  be  of  stout  cord,  and  should  be  secured  to  a 
heavy  square  frame  work,  tilted  as  in  the  coop  trap,  already  de- 
scribed. There  should  be  plenty  of  slack  in  the  net,  and  the 
looseness  should  be  drawn  flat  over  the  framework  in  folds. 
The  contrivance  may  be  set  by  a  large  figure  four  trap,  page 
(107),  or  the  device  described  under  the  coojd  trap,  page  (jSy). 

The  use  of  bird  lime,  for  the  capture  of  a  tiger,  cer- 
tainly seems  odd ;  but  it  is,  nevertheless,  a  common  mode  of 
taking  the  animal,  in  the  countries  where  this  marauder 
abounds.  The  viscid,  tenacious  preparation  known  as  bird  lime 
is  described  on  page  (97)  and  is  familiar  to  most  of  our  readers. 
For  the  capture  of  birds  it  is  unfailing,  when  once  their  delicate 
plumage  comes  in  contact  with  it.  Its  effect  on  the  tiger  is 
surprising,  and  many  a  hunter  has  secured  his  striped  foe  by 
its  aid.  For  this  purpose,  the  cans  of  the  preparation  are 
arranged  on  elevated  boards  around  a  bed  of  leaves,  in  which 
the  bait  is  placed.  A  small  platform  is  so  placed  that  the  tiger 
shall  step  upon  it  in  reaching  for  the  bait,  v/hich,  by  the  aid  of 
strings,  tilts  the  boards  and  tips  off  the  cans.  The  lime  spills 
on  its  victim  and  over  the  bed  of  leaves,  and  the  tiger,  in  his 
endeavors  to  free  himself  from  the  sticky  substance  only  suc- 
■  ceeds  in  spreading  it,  and  as  he  rolls  and  tumbles  on  the  ground 
he  soon  becomes  completely  smeared  and  covered  with  the  dry 
leaves,  from  which  it  is  impossible  for  him  to  extricate  himself. 

In  his  frantic  rage  he  writhes  upon  the  ground  and  becomes 


36 


TRAPS  FOR  LARGE  GAME. 


an  easy  prey  to  the  hunter,  who  is  generally  on  hand  for  the 
fray. 

Steel  traps  are  much  used  for  the  capture  of  large  game,  and 
are  made  in  sizes  especially  adapted  for  the  purpose.  These 
are  described  under  the  proper  head,  in  another  portion  of  this 
work ;  and  the  various  baits  and  modes  of  setting  required  for 
the  different  animals,  are  clearly  set  forth  under  their  respective 
titles  of  the  latter,  in  the  section  "Art  of  Trapping.'* 


BOOK  II. 

SNARES  OR  NOOSE  TRAPS. 

HESE  devices,  although  properly  coming 
under  the  head  of  "traps,"  differ  from 
them  in  the  sense  in  which  they  are  gener- 
ally understood.  A  snare  naturally  im- 
plies an  entangle7nent ;  and  for  this  reason 
the  term  is  applied  to  those  contrivances 
which  secure  their  victims  by  the  aid  of 
strings  or  nooses.  Inventions  of  this 
kind  are  among  the  most  useful  and  suc- 
cessful to  the  professional  Trapper,  and  their  varieties  are 
numerous.  The  "  Twitch-up  "  will  be  recognized  as  a  familiar 
example  by  many  of  our  country  readers,  who  may  have  seen 
it  during  their  rambles,  cautiously  set  in  the  low  underbrush, 
awaiting  its  prey,  or  perhaps  holding  aloft  its  misguided  victim. 
Snares  are  among  the  most  interesting  and  ingenious  of  the 
trap  kind,  besides  being  the  most  sure  and  efficacious.  They 
possess  one  advantage  over  all  other  traps ;  they  can  be  made 
in  the  woods,  and  out  of  the  commonest  material.  ' 

Let  the  young  trapper  supply  himself  with  a  small,  sharp 
hatchet,  and  a  stout,  keen  edged  jack-knife, — these  being  the  only 
tools  required.  He  should  also  provide  himself  with  a  coil  of 
fine  brass  "sucker  wire,"  or  a  quantity  of  horse-hair  nooses 
(which  will  be  described  further  on),  a  small  ball  of  tough  twine 
and  a  pocket  full  of  bait,  such  as  apples,  corn,  oats  and  the  like, 
of  course  depending  upon  the  game  he  intends  to  trap.  With 
these,  his  requirements  are  complete,  and  he  has  the  material 
for  a  score  of  capital  snares,  which  will  do  him  much  excel- 
lent service  if  properly  constructed.  Perhaps  the  most  com- 
mon of  the  noose  traps  is  the  ordinary 

QUAIL   SNARE, 

which  forms  the  subject  of  our  first  illustration.     This  consists 
of  a  series  of  nooses  fastened  to  a  strong  twine  or  wire.     They 

4 


40 


SNARES   OR   NOOSE   TRAPS. 


may  be  of  any  rxumber,  and  should  either  consist  of  fine  wire, 
horse-hair,  or  fine  fish-line.  If  of  wire,  common  brass  "  sucker 
wire,"  to  be  found  in  nearly  all  hardware  establishments  and 
country  stores,  is  the  best.  Each  noose  should  be  about  four 
inches  in  diameter.  To  make  it,  a  small  loop  should  be  twisted 
on  one  end  of  the  wire,  and  the  other  passed  through  it,  thus 
making  a  slipping  loop,  which  will  be  found  to  work  very  easily. 
Fifteen  or  twenty  of  these  nooses  should  be  made,  after  which 
they  should  be  fastened  either  to  a  stout  string  or  wire,  at 
distances  of  about  four  inches  from  each  other,  as  seen  in  our 
illustration.  Each  end  of  the  long  string  supporting  the  nooses 
should  then  be  fastened  to  a  wooden  peg.  After  selecting  the 
ground,  the  pegs  should  be  driven  into  the  earth,  drawing  the 


string  tightly,  as  seen  in  our  illustration.  The  ground  around 
the  nooses  should  then  be  sprinkled  with  corn,  oats,  and  the  like, 
and  the  trap  is  set.  As  a  general  thing,  it  is  advisable  to  set  it 
in  a  neighborhood  where  quails  are  known  to  abound ;  and  as 
they  run  all  over  the  ground  in  search  of  food,  they  are  sure  to 
come  across  the  bait  strewn  for  them,  and  equally  as  certain  to 
be  caught  and  entangled  in  the  nooses.  The  writer  has  known 
as  many  as  six  quails  to  be  thus  caught  at  a  time,  on  a  string  of 
only  twelve  nooses.  Partridges  and  woodcock  will  occasionally 
be  found  entangled  in  the  snare,  and  it  will  oft-times  happen 
that  a  rabbit  will  be  secured  by  the  device. 


HOOP   NOOSES. 

This  is  a  variation  from  the  above,  the  noose  being  attached 
to  a  barrel  hoop  and  the  latter  being  fastened  to  two  stout  posts, 
which  are  firmly  driven  into  the  ground.  By  their  scattering 
the  bait  inside  the  hoop,  and  adjusting  the  loops,  the  contrivance 
is  complete. 

This  is  a  very  old  and  approved  method. 

In  the  initial  (T)  at  the  head  of  this  section  we  give   also 


HOOP   NOOSES.  41 

another  suggestion  for  a  noose  trap.  The  cross  pieces  are 
tacked  to  the  top  of  the  upright,  and  a  noose  suspended  from 
each  end, — the  bait  adjusted  as  there  seen. 

We  have  mentioned  horse-hair  nooses  as  being  desirable,  and 
they  are  commonly  used ;  but,  as  it  takes  considerable  time  to 
make  them,  and  the  wire  answering  the  purpose  fully  as  well, 
we  rather  recommend  the  wire  in  preference.  We  will  give  a 
few  simple  directions,  however,  for  the  making  of  the  horse-hair 
nooses,  in  case  our  readers  might  desire  to  use  them  instead. 

Select  long,  stout  hairs  from  the  tail  of  any  horse,  (we  would 
recommend  that  it  be  a  good  tempered  horse),  take  one  of 
the  hairs  and  double  it  in  the  middle,  hold  the  double  between 
the  thumb  and  fore-finger  of  the  left  hand,  letting  the  two  ends 
hang  from  the  under  side  of  the  thumb,  and  keeping  the  hairs 
between  the  thumb  and  finger,  about  a  third  of  an  inch  apart. 
Now  proceed  to  twist  the  two  hairs  toward  the  end  of  the  finger, 
letting  them  twist  together  as  the  loop  emerges  on  the  upper 
side  of  the  thumb. 

A  little  practice  will  overcome  what  at  first  seems  very  diffi- 
cult. To  keep  the  two  hairs  between  the  fingers  at  the  right 
distance  of  separation,  and  at  the  same  time  to  twist  them  and 
draw  the  loop  from  between  the  fingers  as  they  are  twisted, 
seems  quite  a  complicated  operation ;  and  so  it  will  be  found  at 
first.  But  when  once  mastered  by  practice,  the  twisting  of  five 
nooses  a  minute  will  be  an  easy  matter.  When  the  entire  length 
of  the  hairs  are  twisted,  the  ends  should  be  cut  off  even  and 
then  passed  through  the  small  loop  at  the  folded  end.  The 
noose  is  then  ready  to  be  fastened  to  the  main  string  of  sup- 
port. Horse-hair  nooses  are  commonly  used  in  nearly  all  snares 
as  they  are  always  to  be  had,  and  possess  considerable  strength. 
The  fine  brass  wire  is  also  extensively  used,  and  the  writer 
rather  prefers  it.  It  is  very  strong  and  slips  easily,  besides  do- 
ing away  with  the  trouble  of  twisting  the  loops,  which  to  some 
might  be  a  very  difficult  and  tedious  operation.  We  recommend 
the  wire,  and  shall  allude  to  it  chiefly  in  the  future,  although  the 
horse-hair  may  be  substituted  whenever  desired. 

There  is  another  modification  of  the  foregoing  quail-traps  very 
commonly  utihzed  by  professional  trappers  of  many  countries. 
A  low  hedge  is  constructed,  often  hundreds  of  feet  in  length 
small  openings  are  left  here  and  there,  in  which  the  nooses  are 
placed,  as  in  the  accompanying  engraving.  The  bait  is  strewn 
around  on  both  sides  of  the  hedge,  and  the  grouse  or  other 
game,  on  its  discovery,  are  almost  sure  to  become  entangled 


42 


SNARES   OR   NOOSE   TRAPS. 


sooner  or  later.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  about  these  birds,  that 
they  will  always  seek  to  pass  U7tder  an  object  which  comes  in 
their  way  rather  than  fly  over  it ;  and  although  the  hedge  of 
this  trap  is  only  a  foot  or  more  in  height,  the  birds  will  almost 
invariably  run  about  until  they  find  an  opening,  in  preference 
to  flying  over  it.  It  is  owing  to  this  peculiarity  of  habit  that  they 
are  so  easily  taken  by  this  method.  Our  illustration  gives  only 
a  very  short  section  of  hedge;  it  may  be  extended  to  any 
length.  The  writer's  experience  with  the  hedge  nooses  has 
been  very  satisfactory,  although  never  using  a  length  greater 


than  ten  feet.  It  is  well  to  set  the  hedge  in  the  locality  where 
quails  or  partridges  are  known  to  run.  And  in  setting,  it  is 
always  desirable  to  build  the  hedge  so  that  it  will  stretch  over 
some  open  ground,  and  connect  with  two  trees  or  bushes.  Ce- 
dar boughs  are  excellent  for  the  purpose,  but  any  close  brush- 
wood will  answer  very  well.  Strew  the  ground  with  corn,  oats 
and  the  like.     A  small  quantity  only  is  necessary. 

There  is  another  noose  trap  commonly  used  abroad,  and  very 
little  known  here.  It  is  a  tree  trap,  and  goes  by  the  name  of 
the  "  triangle  snare."  It  is  not  designed  for  the  capture  of  any 
particular  kind  of  bird,  although  it  often  will  secure  fine  and 
rare  specimens.  It  consists  of  a  sapling  of  wood,  bent  and 
tied  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  as  shown  in  our  illustration. 
^^^^.  '<.  ,^  This  may  be  of  any  size,  depend- 
^'^  ^  '  ing  altogether  on  the  bird  the 
young  trapper  fancies  to  secure.  A 
^_^,  noose  should  be  suspended  in  the 
^|Sf^' triangle  from  its  longest  point.  This 
Y^V  noose  should  hang  as  indicated  in 
our  illustration,  falling  low  enough 
to  leave  a  space  of  an  inch  or  so 
below  it  at  the  bottom  of  the  triangle. 
The  bait,  consisting  of  a  piece  of  an 
apple,  a  berry,  insect,  or  piece   of 


THE    "TWITCH-UP.'  43 

meat,  according  to  the  wish  of  the  trapper,  should  then  be  sus- 
pended in  the  centre  of  the  noose,  after  which  the  contrivance 
should  be  hung  in  some  tree  to  await  events.  As  they  are  so 
easily  made  and  can  be  carried  with  so  Httle  trouble,  it  is  an 
excellent  plan  to  set  out  with  a  dozen  or  so,  hanging  them  all  in 
different  parts  of  the  woods  ;  as,  under  circumstances  of  so  many 
being  set,  scarcely  a  day  will  pass  in  which  the  trapper  will  not 
be  rewarded  by  some  one  of  the  snares.  The  writer  once  knew 
of  a  case  where  a  hawk  was  captured  by  one  of  these  simple 
devices.  In  this  case  it  had  been  set  expressly,  and  the  wire 
was  extra  strong.  This  trap,  we  believe,  is  quite  common  in 
parts  of  Germany,  but,  as  far  as  we  know,  has  not  been  utilized 
to  any  great  extent  in  our  country.  We  recommend  it  with 
great  confidence. 

For  the  capture  of  woodchucks,  muskrats  and  house-rats,  the 
wire  noose  may  also  be  adapted  to  good  purpose.  Many  a 
woodchuck  has  been  secured  by  the  aid  of  this  simple  invention. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  arrange  the  loop  in  the  opening  of  the  bur- 
row, securing  the  wire  to  a  stout  stick,  firmly  driven  into  the 
ground.  If  properly  "  set "  the  animal,  on  emerging  from  the 
burrow,  will  become  entangled,  and  by  his  efforts  to  disengage 
himself  will  only  tighten  the  loop  and  thus  render  escape  im- 
possible. For  rats,  the  noose  should  be  attached  to  a  nail,  and 
the  wire  similarly  arranged  over  the  hole. 

The  slipping-noose  thus  simply  adapted  becomes  a  most 
effective  trap,  and  is  always  sure  to  hold  its  victim  when  once 
within  its  grasp,  as  every  struggle  only  tends  to  draw  the  noose 
tighter.  They  are  quick  in  their  action,  and  produce  death 
without  much  pain,  and  for  this  reason  are  to  be  commended. 

THE   "TWITCH-UP." 

Our  next  example  of  the  snare,  we  imagine,  is  one  which  all 
our  boy-readers  will  immediately  recognize ;  for  it  would  cer- 
tainly seem  that  any  country  boy  who  does  not  know  the 
"  Twitch-up  "  must  be  far  behind  the  times,  and  live  in  a  local- 
ity where  there  are  no  rabbits,  quail,  or  even  boys,  besides 
himself,  to  suggest  it.  This  snare  is  a  universal  favorite 
among  nearly  all  country  boys,  and  our  illustration  will  immedi- 
ately bring  it  to  mind.  Its  name,  "  The  Twitch-up,"  conveys 
perfectly  its  method  of  working.  Our  illustration  represents 
the  trap  as  it  appears  when  set.  It  has  many  varieties,  of  which 
we  will  select  the  best.  They  maybe  divided  into  two  classes — 
those  with  upright  nooses,  and  those  in  which  the  noose  is 


44 


SNARES  OR  NOOSE  TRAPS. 


spread  on  the  ground,  the  latter  of  which  are  commonly  called 
"  ground  snares."  We  will  give  our  attention  first  to  the  "  up- 
right" style.  These  are  rather  entitled  to  preference  on  ac- 
count of  the  harmless  death  which  they  inflict,  invariably  catch- 
ing by  the  neck.  Whereas  the  ground  nooses  as  frequently  lift 
their  prey  into  the  air  by  their  feet,  and  thus  prolong  their  suf- 
fering. Twitch-ups  are  the  most  successful  and  sure  of  any 
snares,  and  that,  too,  without  being  complicated.  The  writer, 
in  his  younger  days,  was  quite  an  expert  in  trapping,  and  he  can 


truthfully  say  that  he  found  more  enjoyment  and  had  better  suc- 
cess with  these  than  with  any  other  kinds  of  traps  he  employed. 
They  are  generally  set  in  thickets  or  woods  where  either  rab- 
bits or  partridges  are  known  to  abound.  Having  arrived  at  his 
chosen  trapping  ground,  the  young  trapper  should  first  select 
some  slender,  elastic  sapling ;  that  of  the  hickory  is  the  best, 
and  is  generally  to  be  found  in  open  woods — if  not,  some  other 
kind  will  answer  very  well.  It  should  be  about  five  or  six  feet 
in  length,  (trimmed  of  its  branches,)  and  in  diameter  need  be  no 
larger  than  an  axe-handle  or  a  broom-stick.  When  this  is  decid- 
ed, some  spot  about  five  feet  distant  from  the  sapling  should 
then  be  selected.  The  hatchet  and  knife  will  now  come  into 
excellent  use,  in  cutting  the  sticks  for  the  little  inclosure  shown 


THE    '*  TWITCH-UP. 


45 


in  our  drawing.  This  should  be  about  eight  or  ten  inches  in 
diameter,  and  of  about  the  same  height.  The  sticks  should  be 
driven  into  the  ground  in  a  circle,  leaving  an  open  space  of  about 
six  inches  on  one  side.  A  stout  switch  as  large  as  a  man's  little 
finger,  and  nearly  two  feet  long,  should  then'be  cut  and  nicely 
sharpened  at  both  ends.  This  should  then  be  driven  into  the 
ground  in  the  form  of  an  arch,  at  the  opening  of  the  inclosure. 
We  will  now  ask  our  readers  to  turn  their  attention  to  the 
next  illustration,  in  order  to  understand  what  is  to  follow.  This 
picture  shows  the  method  of  setting  the  trap. 

After  the  arch  is  firmly  fixed  in  its  place,  a  short  piece  of 
stick  should  be  cut,  of  a  length  corresponding  to  the  height  of 
the  arch.  To  the  middle  of  this  stick  the  bait  should  be  at- 
tached, being  either  tied  to  it  or 
stuck  on  a  plug  driven  into  the 
stick,  the  latter  being  sharpened 
on  one  end.  Next  proceed 
to  cut  another  stick,  of  about 
six.inches  in  length  ;  let  this  be 
flattened  on  one  end.  The  wire 
noose  should  then  be  fastened 
to  the  opposite  end.  The  noose 
in  this  case  should  be  large 
enough  to  fill  the  opening  of  the 
arch.  We  will  now  go  back  to 
the  sapling  again.  It  should  be 
bent  down  slightly,  and  a  piece 
of  the  strong  twine  should  be 
tied  to  its  tip.  Taking  hold  of  the  string,  proceed  to  bend  down 
the  end  of  the  sapling,  in  the  direction  of  the  inclosure,  until  it 
draws  with  a  force  strong  enough  to  lift  a  rabbit  if  he  were  tied 
to  the  end  of  it.  Thus  holding  it  down  with  the  string  against 
the  front  of  the  inclosure,  cut  off  the  twine  at  the  place  where 
it  crosses  the  top  of  the  arch,  as  this  will  be  the  required  length. 
It  is  now  necessary  to  tie  the  end  of  this  string  to  the  same 
piece  of  wood  and  at  the  same  place  to  which  the  noose  was 
tied.  When  this  is  done  the  trap  may  be  set  as  shown  in  the 
cut.  The  spring  sapling  should  be  bent  as  seen  in  the  first 
illustration.  The  piece  of  wood  holding  the  noose  should  be 
passed  beneath  the  top  of  the  arch,  as  far  as  it  will  go,  with  its 
long  end  pointing  inside  the  inclosure.  By  now  supporting  the 
inside  end  with  the  bait  stick,  and  carefully  adjusting  the  noose 
so  as  to  com  letcly  fill  the  arch,  the  trap  will  be  set. 


^.  UU-^' 


46 


SNARES    OR    NOOSE   TRAPS 


In  order  to  reach  the  bait,  the  rabbit  or  b.rd  must  necessarily 
pass  its  head  through  the  noose,  after  which,  if  the  bait  be 
scarcely  touched^  the  animal's  doom  is  sealed,  and  he  is  lifted 
into  the  air,  generally  suffering  almost  instant  death.  It  is  well 
known  that  in  the  case  of  a  rabbit  the  neck  is  broken  by  a  very 
slight  blow,  a  strong  snap  of  the  finger  being  often  sufficient. 
It  is  therefore  safe  to  conclude  that  when  thus  suddenly  caught 
and  lifted  by  the  noose,  death  must  occur  almost  instantane- 
ously from  the  same  cause. 

It  is  not  really  necessary  to  success  that  the  force  of  the  sap- 
ling should  be  strong  enough  to  lift  the  rabbit  from  the  ground, 
as  a  mere  strong  tightening  of  the  noose  would  be  sufficient  to 
cause  strangulation  and  death.  But  we  recommend  the  former 
method  as  being  less  painful  and  more  rapid  in  its  effects. 

If  the  young  trapper  should  experience  any  difficulty  in  find- 
ing saplings  of  the  right  size,  in  the  locality  where  he  desires 
to  set  his  traps,  the  difficulty  may  be  easily  mended  by  cutting 
the  poles  elsewhere,  and  carrying  them  to  his  trapping-ground, 
this  answering  the  purpose  equally  well.  They  should  be  sharp- 
ened nicely  on  the  large  end,  and  firmly  stuck  into  ground. 
The  "Twitch-up  "  may  be  used  for  the  capture  of  all  varieties  of 
game,  and  when  set  with  the  noose  in  the  opening  of  a  hollow 
tree,  a  stray  coon  will  occasionally  be  entrapped. 

The  next  figure  represents  another  method  of  constructing 
this  trap.  The  picture  explains  itself.  Instead  of  the  arch, 
two  notched  sticks  are  driven 
into  the  ground,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  opening  of  the  pen. 
The  other  piece  should  be  of 
the  shape  shown  in  the  figure, 
made  either  in  one  piece  or  in 
two  pieces  fastened  together. 
They  may  all  be  constructed 
from  twigs  in  the  woods.  Let 
the  noose  and  draw-string  now 
be  fastened  to  the  middle  of  the 
cross  piece,  and  when  set  it  will 
appear  as  in  our  figure.  It  will 
easily  be  seen  that  a  slight  pull 
on  the  bait  will  turn  the  cross^* 
piece  from  beneath  the  notches,  '.>"**'?*? 

and  allow  it  to  fly  into  the  air.  Method  No.  2. 

In  our  next  instance  the  same  principle  is  employed.     The 


THE    "  TVVITCII-UP. 


47 


notched  pegs  are  here  driven  in  the  back  part  of  the  pen,  abt)ut 

five  inches  apart,  with 
their  notches  towards 
^the  front.  A  forked 
bait  stick  of  the  shape 
shown  is  then  procured. 
The  draw-string  should 
be  attached  near  the 
end  furthest  from  the 
fork.  By  now  insert- 
ing the  ends  hghtly  be- 
neath the  notches  in 
Method  No.  3.  the  pegs,  at  the  same 

time  letting  the  bait  incline  near  the  ground,  the  trap  will  be 
set  on  a  very  slight  lift,  as  the  bait  will  dislodge  the  pieces.  Of 
course  the  noose  must  be  arranged  in  the  opening  of  the  pen, 
as  in  the  previous  varieties.  The  bait  stick  in  both  cases  should 
be  set  cautiously  beneath  the  notches,  as  shown  at  {a),  so  that 
the  slightest  turn  will  cause  it  to  roll  out  of  position. 

A  fourth  method  of  snaring  is  shown  in  our  next  figure.  In 
this  instance  the  .original  arch  is  used,  or  else  some  circular 
opening  constructed  in  the  front  of  the  pen.  Inside,  at  the 
back  part  of  the  inclosure,  a  smaller  arch  is  placed.  Two  sticks 
are  then  to  be  made  similar  to  those  mentioned  in  our  first  ex- 
ample of  the  "  Twitch-up."  Let  the  draw-string  be  tied  to  the 
end  of  one  of  these  sticks ;  after  which  it  should  be  passed 
undei  the  inside  arch,  being  brought  out  in  front  of  it,  and 
there  supported  by  the  bait-stick,  as  seen  in  our  illustration. 
The  noose  should  then  be  attached 
to  the  draw-string  above  the  pen, 
and  afterward  brought  down  and 
arranged  in  front  of  the  opening. 
The  trap  is  then  set,  and  will  be 
found  on  trial  to  work  admirably. 

One  of  the  simplest  as  well  as 
surest  of  *'  Twitch-up  "  traj^s  forms 
the  subject  of  our  next  illustration. 
Like  the  foregoing  varieties  it  is  of  xilvt^^ 
course  to  be  surrounded  by  its  pen,  ^^■^c:^ 
and  supi^lied  with  a  circular  open-       ^" 
ing  or   arch  at  one  side,  in  which  Method  No.  4. 

to  hang  the  noose.  It  is  constructed  of  three  twigs.  A 
simple  crotch  (a)  should  be  firmly  inserted  in  the  ground  at 


48 


SNARES    OR    NOOSE   TRAPS. 


the  back  part  of  the  pen  ;  (^) 
the  bait  stick,  consists  of  a 
straight  twig,  five  or  six 
inches  in  length,  and  should 
be  attached  to  the  draw- 
string at  about  half  an  inch 
from  the  large  end  ;  (c)  is 
another  forked  stick  with 
unequal  arms,  the  long  one 
^ ,  being  driven  into  the  ground 
"^^^^'-J  i»  near  the  opening  of  the  pen 
^r'^V^Sff*- 'and  a  little  to  one  side,  let- 
Method  No.  5.  ting  the  remaining  arm  point 
directly  towards  the  crotch-stick  at  the  back  of  the  pen.  The 
noose  having  been  attached  to  the  draw-string,  the  trap  may 
now  be  set.  Lower  the  bait  stick  and  pass  the  large  end  under 
the  crotch  at  the  back  of  the  pen,  catching  the  baited  end  un- 
derneath the  tip  of  the  forked  stick  near  the  pen's  opening. 
Arrange  the  noose  in  front  of  the  entrance,  and  the  thing  is 
done.  A  mere  touch  on  the  bait  will  suffice  to  throw  the  pieces 
asunder.  It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  sharpen  the  point  of  the 
forked  stick  (c)  where  it  comes  in  contact  with  the  bait  stick,  in 
order  to  make  the  bearing  more  slight,  and  consequently  more 
easily  thrown  from  its  balance. 


THE   poacher's   SNARE. 

Our  next  example  represents  one  of  the  oldest  and  best 
snares  in  existence,  —  simple  in  construction,  and  almost  infal- 
lible in  its  operations.  It  is  the  one  in  most  common  use 
among  the  poachers  of  England,  hence  its  name.  The  pieces 
are  three  in  number,  and  may  be  cut  from  pine  wood,  affording 
easy  and  profitable  employment  for  the  jack-knife  during  odd 
hours  and  rainy  days,  when  time  hangs  heavily. 

The  pieces  are  so  simple  in  form  and  easy  of  construction 
that  a  sufficient  number  for  fifty  traps  might  be  whittled  in 
less  than  two  hours,  by  any  smart  boy,  who  is  at  all  "  handy  " 
with  his  jack-knife. 

If  a  few  good  broad  shingles  can  be  found,  the  work  is  even 
much  easier, — mere  splitting  and  notching  being  then  all 
that  is  necessary.  The  bait  stick  should  be  about  eight 
inches  long,  pointed  at  one  end,  and  supplied  with  a  notch 
in   the   other  at  about  half  an  inch  from  the  tip.     The  upright 


THE   POACHER'S    SNARE. 


49 


stick  should  be  considerably  shorter  than  the  bait  stick,  and 
have  a  length  of  about  ten  inches,  one  end  being  nicely 
pointed,  and  the  broad  side  of   the   other   extremity  supplied 

with  a  notch  similar  to 
the  bait  stick.  About  four 
inches  from  the  blunt  end, 
and  on  the  narrow  side  of 
the  stick,  a  square  notch 
should  be  cut,  sufficiently 
large  to  admit  the  bait 
stick  loosely.  The  catch 
piece  now  remains.  This 
should  be  about  two  and 
a-half  inches  in  length, 
half  an  inch  in  width,  and 
bevelled  off  at  each  end 
into  a  flat  edge.  The 
shapes  of  the  different  pieces,  together  with  their  setting,  will 
be  readily  understood  by  a  look  at  our  illustration. 

A  hundred  of  these  pieces  will  make  a  small  bundle,  and 
may  be  easily  carried  by  the  young  trapper,  together  with  his 
other  necessaries,  as  he  starts  off  into  the  woods.  He  will 
thus  be  supplied  with  parts  for  thirty-three  traps,  all  ready  to 
be  set,  only  requiring  the  stakes  for  the  pens,  which  may  be 
easily  cut  in  the  woods.  Having  selected  a  flexible  sapling 
about  five  feet  in  length,  and  having  stripped  it  of  its  branches, 
proceed  to  adjust  the  pieces.  Take  one  of  the  upright 
sticks,  and  insert  it  firmly  in  the  ground,  with  its  upper  notch 
facing  the  sapling,  and  at  about  four  feet  distant  from  it.  Bend 
down  the  ^'  springer,"  and  by  its  force  determine  the  required 
length  for  the  draw-string  attaching  one  end  to  the  tip  of  the 
sapling,  and  the  other  near  the  end  of  a  catch  piece,  the  latter 
having  its  bevelled  side  uppermost.  The  wire  noose  should  then 
be  attached  to  the  draw-string  about  six  inches  above  the  catch- 
piece.  The  pen  should  now  be  constructed  as  previously  di- 
rected. Its  entrance  should  be  on  the  side  furthest  from  the 
springer,  and  should  be  so  built  as  that  the  peg  in  the  ground 
shall  be  at  the  back  part  of  the  enclosure.  The  pen  being  fin- 
ished, the  trap  may  be  set. 

Insert  the  bait  stick  with  bait  attached  into  the  square 
notch  in  the  side  of  the  upright  peg ;  or,  if  desired,  it  may  be 
adjusted  by  a  pivot  or  nail  through  both  sticks,  as  seen  in  our 
illustration,  always  letting  the  baited  end  project  toward  the 


50  SNARES  OR  NOOSE  TRAPS. 

bpening.  Draw  down  the  catch  piece,  and  fit  its  ends  into  the 
notches  in  the  back  of  the  upright  peg  and  extremity  of  the 
bait-stick.  By  now  pulling  the  latter  slightly,  and  gently  with- 
drawing the  hand,  the  pieces  will  hold  themselves  together, 
only  awaiting  a  lift  at  the  bait  to  dislodge  them.  Adjust  the 
wire  loop  at  the  opening  of  the  pen,  and  you  may  leave  the  trap 
with  the  utmost  confidence  in  its  ability  to  take  care  of  itself, 
and  any  unlucky  intruder  who  tries  to  steal  its  property. 

Most  of  the  snares  which  we  shall  describe  are  constructed 
from  rough  twigs,  as  these  are  always  to  be  found  in  the 
v/oods,  and  with  a  little  practice  are  easily  cut  and  shaped  into 
the  desired  forms.  If  desired,  however,  many  of  them  may  be 
whittled  from  pine  wood  like  the  foregoing,  and  the  pieces  car- 
ried in  a  bundle,  ready  for  immediate  use.  In  either  case,  whe- 
ther made  from  the  rough  twigs  or  seasoned  wood,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  have  them  already  prepared,  and  thus  save  time  at  the 
trapping  ground  when  time  is  more  valuable. 


THE  PORTABLE   SNARE. 

This  is  simply  a  modification  of  the  snare  just  described, 
but  possesses  decided  advantages  over  it  in  many  respects.  In 
the  first  place,  it  requires  little  or  no  protection  in  the  shape  of 
an  enclosure.  It  can  be  set  in  trees  or  in  swamps,  or  in  short 
in  any  place  where  an  upright  elastic  branch  can  be  found  or 
adjusted.  Like  the  foregoing,  it  is  to  be  commended  for  its 
portability,  fifty  or  sixty  of  the  pieces  making  but  a  small  par- 
cel, and  furnishing  material  for  a  score  of  traps.  We  call  it 
the  **  portable  snare"  partly  in  order  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
one  just  described,  but  chiefly  because  this  particular  variety  is 
generally  called  by  that  name  in  countries  where  it  is  most 
used. 

It  is  composed  of  three  pieces,  all  to  be  cut  from  a  shingle 
or  thin  board.  Let  the  first  be  about  eight  inches  long,  and 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  width.  This  is  for  the  upright. 
An  oblong  mortise  should  be  cut  through  this  piece,  one  inch 
in  length,  and  beginning  at  about  an  inch  from  the  end  of  the 
stick.  Three  inches  from  the  other  end,  and  on  one  of  the 
broad  sides  of  the  stick,  a  notch  should  be  made,  correspond- 
ing in  shape  to  that  shown  in  our  illustration.  The  bait  stick 
should  be  four  or  five  inches  long,  one  end  fitting  easily  into  the 
mortise,  where  it  should  be  secured  by  a  wire  or  smooth  nail 


THE   PORTABLE    SNARE 


51 


driven  through  so  as  to  form  a  hinge,  on  which  it  will  work 
easily.  On  the  upper  side  of  this  stick,  and  two  inches  dis- 
tant from  the  pivot,  a  notch  should  be  cut,  similar  to  that  in  the 
upright.  The  catch  piece  should  be  about  two  inches  in  length, 
and  bevelled  off  to  a  flat  edge  at  each  end.  This  completes  the 
pieces. 


To  set  the  trap,  it  is  only  necessary  to  find  some  stout  sa]> 
ling,  after  which  the  upright  stick  may  be  attached  to  it  close 
to  the  ground,  by  the  aid  of  two  pieces  of  stout  iron  wire, 
twisted  firmly  around  both.  It  is  well  to  cut  slight  grooves  at 
each  end  of  the  uj^right  for  the  reception  of  the  wires,  in  order 
to  prevent  slipping.     Tic  a  strong  piece  of  twine  around  one 


52 


SNARES  OR  NOOSE  TRAPS. 


end  of  the  catch  piece,  knotting  it  on  the  beveled  side.  Cut 
the  string  about  two  feet  in  length,  and  attach  the  other 
end  to  the  tip  of  the  sapling.  Adjust  the  bait  stick  on  its 
pivot.  By  now  lowering  the  catch  piece,  and  lodging  the  knot- 
ted end  beneath  the  notch  in  the  upright  and  the  other  end  in 
the  notch  on  the  bait  stick,  the  pieces  will  appear  as  in  our 
drawing.  Care  should  be  taken  to  set  the  catch  pieces  as 
slightly  as  possible  in  the  notches,  in  order  to  insure  sensitive- 
ness. At  about  four  inches  from  the  catch  piece,  the  wire 
noose  should  be  attached  and  arranged  in  a  circle  directly 
around  the  bait.  By  now  backing  up  the  trap  with  a  few 
sticks  to  prevent  the  bait  from  being  approached  from  be- 
hind, the  thing  is  complete,  and  woe  to  the  misguided  crea- 
ture that  dares  to  test  its  efficacy.  By  adjusting  the  draw- 
string so  far  as  the  upper  end  of  the  catch  piece,  the  leverage 
on  the  bait  stick  is  so  slight  as  to  require  a  mere  touch  to  over- 
come it ;  and  we  may  safely  say  that,  when  this  trap  is  once 
baited,  it  will  stay  baited,  so  far  as  animal  intruders  are  con- 
cerned, as  we  never  yet  have  seen  a  rabbit  or  bird  skilful  enough 
to  remove  the  tempting  morsel  before  being  summarily  dealt 
with  by  the  noose  on  guard  duty. 

For  portability,  however,  the  following  has  no  eaual. 


THE   "SIMPLEST''   SNARE. 

Thfl*  is  one  of  the  most  ingeni- 
ous and  effective  devices  used  in 
the  art  of  trapping;  and  the  prin- 
ciple is  so  simple  and  universal 
in  its  application  to  traps  in  gen- 
eral as  to  become  a  matter  of 
great  value  to  all  who  are  at  all 
interested  in  the  subject.  There 
is  scarcely  a  trap  of  any  kind 
which  could  not  be  set  with  the 
knotted  string  and  bait  stick,  at 
the  expense  of  a  little  thought 
and  ingenuity.  The  principle  is 
^-^*  J-  >'-/.^.  >S.  easily  understood  by  a  look  at  our 
^'i^il.^-^-^^^  engraving,  which  probably  repre- 
Method  No.  i.  sents  the  simplest  twitch-up  it  is 

possible  to   construct.     A  stout  wooden  peg,  having  a  hole  the 
size  of  a  lead  pencil  near  the  top,  is   driven   firmly  into   the 


THE   QUAIL   SNARE. 


53 


ground.  The  "knot'*  is  made  on  the  end  of  the  raw-string, 
and  passed  through  the  hole  in  the  peg  from  behind,  being 
secured  in  place  by  the  insertion  of  the  bait  stick  in  front. 
The  latter  should  be  about  four  inches  long,  and  should  be 
inserted  very  lightly, — merely  enough  to  prevent  the  knot  from 
slipping  back.  The  noose  should  be  fastened  to  the  draw-string 
six  or  seven  inches  from  the  knot,  and  arranged  in  front  of  the 
bait  at  the  opening  of  the  pen,  which  should  be  constructed  as 
l^reviously  directed.  The  peg  should  be  about  six  inches  long 
and  the  hole  should  be  made  with  a  1-3  inch  auger.  Dozens  ol 
these  pegs  may  be  carried  without  inconvenience,  and  utilized 
in  the  same  number  of  snares,  in  a  very  short  time.  We  have 
already  described  the  so-called  "  portable  snare ; "  but,  for 
portability,  there  is  no  noose-trap  to  be  compared  with  the 
above.  We  give  also  a  few  other  applications  of  the  same  prin- 
ciple. 

In  the  second  example, 
a  horizontal  stick  is  used 
instead  of  the  peg,  the 
hole  being  made  in  its 
centre.  Its  ends  are 
caught  in  notches  in  op- 
posite sticks  at  the  back 
part  of  the  pen,  and 
the  noose  arranged  at 
the  opening. 

Again,  by  a  third  meth- 
od (see  engraving  ^ext 
page),  these  notched 
sticks  may  be  driven  into 
the  ground  first,  and  a 
row  of  twigs  continued 
on  them  on  both  sides, 
thus  leaving  a  passage- 
way between,  as  repre- 
sented in  the  illustration.  A  noose  may  then  be  set  at  each 
opening,  with  the  bait  in  the  middle  ;  so  that,  at  whichever  side 
it  is  approached,  the  result  is  the  same,  besides  affording  a 
chance  of  securing  two  birds  at  the  same  time. 

THE  QUAIL   SNARE. 

That  quaus  are  sociable  in  their  habits,  and  that  they  run 
together  in  broods  in  search  of  their  food,  is  a  fact  well  known 


Method  No.  2. 


54 


SNARES   OR   NOOSE   TRAPS. 


to  all  sportsmen.  A  most  excellent  opportunity  is  thus  afforded 
the  hunter  to  secure  several  at  one  shot,  and  the  same  advan- 
tage may  be  gained  by  the  trapper  by  specially  arranging  for 
it.  For  this  purpose  there  is  no  invention  more  desirable  or 
effective  than  the  snare  we  next  illustrate  ;  and  on  account  of 
the  companionable  habits  of  the  quail,  it  is  just  as  sure  to  catch 
six  birds  as  one.  The  principle  on  which  the  trap  works,  is 
the  same  as  in  the  three  foregoing. 

Two  notched  pegs  are  first  driven  into  the  ground,  about 
four  inches  apart,  and  the  flat  stick  with  the  hole  in  the  centre 

caught  beneath  these  sum- 
mits, as  just  described.  It 
should  be  firmly  secured ; 
several  nooses  are  next  to 
be  attached  to  the  draw- 
string, and  the  trap  set  as 
already  directed. 

The  best  bait  consists  of 
a  "  nub  "  of  pop-corn,  firmly 
impaled  on  the   spindle,  to- 
gether   with    a    few    loose 
Method  No.  3.  grains     scattered     on     the 

ground  right  beneath  it.  The  nooses  should  be  arranged  around 
the  bait  so  as  to  touch  or  overlap  each  other,  and  the  bait  stick 
introduced  into  the   hole  a  little  more  firmly  than  when   set 

with  one  noose.  The  quail  on 
reaching  the  trap  all  rush  for  the 
corn  on  the  ground,  and  thus 
fill  nearly  if  not  all  the  nooses. 
When  the  supply  here  is  ex- 
hausted, then  united  attacks  are 
directed  towards  the  "  nub  "  on 
the  bait  stick,  which  soon  be- 
comes loosened :  the  knot  is  thus 
released  and  each  noose  will 
probably  launch  a  victim  in  mid- 
air. This  invention  is  original 
with  the  author  of  this  work,  so 
far  as  he  knows ;  and  it  will  be 
found  the  simplest  as  well  as 
nost  effective  quail  snare  in  existence.  Pop-corn  is  mentioned 
is  bait  partly  on  account  of  its  being  a  favorite  food  with  the 
quail;  but  particularly  because  the  J^eckin^  which  it  necessitates 


^^ 


THE    BOX    SNARE. 


SS 


in  order  to  remove  the  grains  from  the  cob,  is  sure  to  sprino^ 
the  trap.  If  pop  corn  cannot  be  had,  common  Indian  corn  will 
answer  very  well  Oats  or  buckwheat  may  also  be  used,  as  the 
ground  bait,  if  desired. 

THE   BOX   SNARE. 

This  is  a  most  unique  device,  and  will  well  repay  any  one 

who  may  aesire 
to  test  its  merits. 
It  may  be  set  for 
rabbits,  coon,  or 
feathered  game, 
of  course  vary- 
ing the  size  of 
the  box  accord- 
ingly. For  ordin- 
ary purposes,  it 
should  be  seven 
oreight  inches 
square,  leaving 
one  end  open. 
Place  it  in  the 
position  shown 
in  the  illustra- 
tion and  proceed 
to  bore  an  auger 
hole  in  the  top 
board,  one  and  a 
half  inches  from 
the  back  edge. 

This  is  for  the  reception  of  the  bait  stick.  Directly  opposite 
to  this  and  an  inch  from  the  front  edge  of  the  board  a  notched 
peg  should  be  inserted.  A  gimlet  hole  sliould  now  be  bored 
on  a  hne  between  the  auger  hole  and  notched  peg,  and  half  an 
inch  from  ,be  latter.  A  small  stout  screw  eye  should  next  be 
inserted  at  ':he  rear  edge  of  the  board,  and  another  one  fastened 
to  the  back  board,  two  inches  from  the  bottom.  With  these 
simple  preparations  the  box  is  complete.  The  bait  stick  should 
be  about  five  or  six  inches  long  and  supplied  with  a  notch  at 
the  upper  end.  It  should  be  of  such  a  size  as  to  pass  easily 
into  the  auger  hole,  and  provided  with  a  peg  inserted  through 
it  at  about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  notched  end,  as  shown 
in  our  illustration  at  (a).  The  object  of  this  peg  is  to  prevent 
the  bait  stick  from  being  drawn  entirely  through  the  hole  by  the 

5 


56  SNARES    OR    NOOSE   TRAPS. 

force  ot  the  pull  from  above.  The  catch  piece  should  be  only 
long  enough  to  secure  its  ends  beneath  the  notches  in  the  pe^ 
at  the  top  of  the  box  and  the  j^rojecting  bait  stick.  It  should 
be  bevelled  off  at  the  tips  as  in  the  instances  previously  de- 
scribed, and  attached  to  a  piece  of  sucker  wire,  the  point  of 
attachment  being  at  about  an  inch  from  the  end  of  the  stick. 
The  wire  should  be  about  two  and  a  half  feet  in  length,  the 
catch  piece  being  fastened  at  about  six  inches  from  one  end. 
To  set  this  neat  little  invention  it  is  first  necessary  to  procure 
a  strong  and  elastic  switch  about  four  feet  in  length,  sharpen  it 
slightly  at  the  large  end  and  insert  it  firmly  in  the  screw  eye  at 
the  back  of  the  box,  securing  it  in  place  at  the  top  by  strings 
through  the  screw  eye  at  that  place.  By  nov/  attaching  the 
short  end  of  the  wire  to  the  tip  of  the  sapling,  inserting  the  bait 
stick  from  the  inside  of  the  box,  and  securing  the  catch  piece 
in  the  notches,  the  other  pieces  will  be  in  equilibrium,  and  the 
only  remaining  thing  to  be  done  is  to  pass  the  long  end  of  the 
wire  through  the  gimlet  hole,  and  form  it  into  a  slipping  noose 
which  shall  completely  fill  the  opening  of  the  box.  In  order  to 
reach  the  bait  the  animal  must  pass  his  head  through  the  noose,  " 
and  it  can  be  easily  seen  that  the  slightest  pull  on  that  tempting 
morsel  will  release  the  catch  piece  and  tighten  the  wire  around 
the  neck  of  the  intruder.  Where  the  trap  is  small  and  the 
captured  animal  is  large,  it  w^ill  sometimes  happen  that  the  box 
v/ill  be  carried  a  distance  of  several  feet  before  overpowering 
its  victim ;  but  it  is  sure  to  do  it  in  the  end  if  the  spring  powers 
of  the  sapling  are  strong  and  it  is  firmly  secured  to  the  box. 
If  desired,  the  box  may  be  tied  to  a  neighboring  stone  or  tree 
to  prevent  any  such  capers  ;  but  it  will  generally  be  found  unne- 
cessary, and  a  few  minutes'  search  will  always  reveal  it  v/ith  its 
unlucky  captive. 

We  have  described  the  box  with  its  spring  attached  ;  but  this 
is  not  a  requisite,  as  it  may  be  used  with  growing  sapling  when 
required. 

The  same  trap  may  be  constructed  of  a  pasteboard  box  and 
whalebone,  for  the  capture  of  small  birds,  and  used  with  good 
success.  The  size  we  have  mentioned  is  adaptable  for  rabbits 
and  animals  of  the  same  size,  but  is  really  larger  than  necessary 
for  feathered  game. 

THE   DOUBLE   BOX   SNARE. 

This  is  another  embodiment  of  the  same  principle  which  has 
already  been  described,  viz. — the  knotted  string.     By  many  it 


THE    DOUBLE    BOX   SNARE. 


57 


is  considered  ah  improvement  on  the  box  snare  just  mentioned, 
owing  to  the  possibiHty  of  its  taking  two  victims  at  the  same 
time.  It  may  be  set  for  rabbits,  mink,  or  muskrat,  and  will  be 
found  very  efficient. 

It  consists  of  a  box  about  eight  inches  square,  one  foot  in 
length,  and  open  at  both  ends.     In  the  centre  of  the  top  board 


a  hole  of  the  diameter  of  a  lead  pencil  should  be  bored,  and  a 
smaller  aperture  also  made  in  the  middle  of  each  end  near  the 
edge  as  seen  in  the  accompanying  engraving.  The  spring  is 
next  required.  This  should  consist  of  an  elastic  switch  or 
small  pole,  three  or  more  feet  in  length.  It  should  be  inserted 
in  a  slanting  auger  hole,  made  through  the  middle  of  one  of  the 
side  boards  near  the  bottom  at  the  angle  shown  at  (a)»  Should 
the  switch  fit  loosely  it  may  be  easily  tightened  by  a  small 
wedge  driven  in  beside  it.  The  bait  stick  (^)  should  be  about 
four  inches  in  length,  and  large  enough  to  fit  casiiy  into  the 
hole  in  the  centre  of  the  top  board.  Next  procure  a  stout  bit 
of  cord  about  eight  inches  in  length.     Tie  one  end  to  the  tip  of 


5^  SNARES    OR    NOOSE    TRAPS. 

the  switch  and  provide  the  other  with  a  large  double  knot.  A 
second  knot  should  then  be  made,  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
above  the  first.  A  piece  of  sucker  wire  is  the  next  necessity. 
Its  length  should  be  about  five  feet,  and  its  centre  should  be 
tied  over  the  uppermost  knot  in  the  string.  If  the  bait  is  now 
in  readiness,  the  trap  may  be  set.  Bend  down  the  switch  until 
the  end  knot  will  pass  through  the  hole  in  the  centre  of  the 
board.  When  it  appears  in  the  inside  of  the  box,  it  should 
then  be  secured  by  the  insertion  of  the  top  of  the  bait  stick, 
as  shown  at  (b).  This  insertion  need  be  only  very  slight,  a 
sixteenth  of  an  inch  being  all  that  is  sufficient  to  prevent  the 
knot  from  slipping  back.  The  spring  is  thus  held  in  the  posi- 
tion seen  in  the  drawing,  and  the  loose  ends  of  the  sucker  wire 
should  then  be  passed  downward  through  the  small  holes  and 
arranged  in  nooses  at  both  openings  of  the  box.  Our  trap  is 
now  set,  and  the  unlucky  creature  which  attempts  to  move  that 
bait  from  either  approach,  will  bring  its  career  to  an  untimely 
end.  The  bait  stick  may  be  so  delicately  adjusted  as  to  need 
only  the  slightest  touch  to  dislodge  it.  Such  a  fine  setting  ^s  to 
be  guarded  against,  however,  being  as  likely  to  be  sprung  by  a 
mouse  as  by  a  larger  animal.  The  setting  is  easily  regulated, 
being  entirely  dependent  upon  the  slight  or  firm  insertion  of 
the  bait  stick.  Among  all  the  "  modi  operandi "  in  the  con- 
struction of  traps,  there  is  scarcely  one  more  simple  than  the 
principle  embodied  in  this  variety,  and  there  is  none  more  ef- 
fective. 

The  box  snare  already  described  may  be  set  by  the  same 
method,  and  indeed  the  principle  may  be  applied  to  almost  any 
trap,  from  the  simplest  snare  described  en  page  (  52 )  to  the 
largest  dead-fall. 


GROUND    SNARES. 

THE   OLD-FASHIONED   SPRINGLE. 

This  is  the  variety  of  snare  which  has  been  in  very  common 
use  for  ages,  and  has  always  been  the  one  solitary  example 
of  a  noose  trap  which  our  ^'  boys'  books ''  have  invariably 
pounced  upon  for  illustration.  For  the  capture  of  small  birds 
it  works  very  nicely ;  and  as  without  it  our  list  of  traps  would  be 
incomplete,  we  will  give  an  illustration  of  it  as  it  appears  when 


THE  OLD-FASHIONED  SPRINGLE.  59 

set  and  ready  for  its  work.  In  constructing  the  affair  it  is  first 
necessary  to  cut  a  flexible  twig  of  willow  or  bramble  about 
eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  form  it  into  a  loop  as  seen  at  (a), 
securing  the  tips  by  a  few  circuits  of  string,  and  allowing  the 
larger  end  to  project  an  inch  or  more  beyond  the  other.  This 
loop,  which  is  called  the  "spreader,"  should  now  be  laid  down 
flat;  ond  on  the  upper  side  of  the  large  end  and  about  an  inch 
from  its  tip,  a  notch  should  be  cut  as  our  illustration  shows. 
The  spring  should  next  be  procured,  and  should  consist  of 
a  pliant,  elastic  switch,  about  four  feet  in  length.  A  piece  of 
fish  line  about  two  feet  long,  should  now  be  fastened  to  the  tip 
of  the  switch,  and  the  loose  end  of  the  cord  attached  to  a  catch 
piece  of  the  shape  shown  at  (b).  This  catch  may  be  about  an 
inch  and  a  half  long,  and  should  be  whittled  off  to  an  edge  on 
one  end,  the  string  being  attached  at  about  its  centre.  A  slip- 
ping noose,  made  from  strong  horse  hair,  or  piece  of  fine 


wire  about  two  feet  long,  should  now  be  fastened  to  the  string 
about  two  inches  above  the  catch.  Having  the  switch  thus 
prepared,  it  is  ready  to  be  inserted  in  the  ground  at  the  place 
selected  for  the  trap.  When  this  is  done,  another  small  flexi- 
ble twig  about  a  foot  in  length  should  cut,  and  being  sharp- 
ened at  both  ends,  should  be  inserted  in  the  ground  in  the  form 
of  an  arch  {c),  at  about  three  feet  distant  from  the  spring, 
and  having  its  broad  side  toward  it.  Insert  the  notch  of  the 
spreader  exactly  under  the  top  of  the  arc,  and  note  the  spot 
where  the  curved  end  of  the  former  touches  the  ground.  At 
this  point  a  peg  (d)  should  be  driven  leaving  a  projecting  por- 
tion of  about  two  inches.    The  pieces  are  now  ready  to  be 


6o  SNARES    OR    NOOSE   TRAPS. 

adjusted.  Pass  the  curved  end  of  the  spreader  over  the  peg, 
bringing  the  notched  end  beneath  the  arc  with  tlie  notch  up- 
permost. Draw  down  the  catch  piece,  and  pass  it  beneath  the 
arc  from  the  opposite  side  letting  the  bevelled  end  catch  in  the 
notch  in  the  spreader,  the  other  end  resting  against  the  upper 
part  of  the  arc.  Arrange  the  slipping  noose  over  the  spreader 
as  our  drawing  indicates,  bringing  it  inside  the  peg,  as  there 
shown,  as  otherv/ise  it  w^ould  catch  upon  it  when  the  snare  is 
sprung.  Strew  the  bait,  consisting  of  berries,  bird-seed,  or  the 
like,  inside  the  spreader,  and  all  is  ready.  Presently  a  little 
bird  is  seen  to  settle  on  the  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
trap ;  he  spies  the  bait  and  hopping  towards  it,  gradually  makes 
bold  enough  to  alight  upon  the  spreader,  which  by  his  weight 
immediately  falls,  the  catch  is  released,  the  switch  flies  up,  and 
the  unlucky  bird  dangles  in  the  air  by  the  legs.  If  the  trapper 
is  near  he  can  easily  release  the  struggHng  creature  before  it  is 
at  all  injured,  otherwise  it  will  flutter  itself  into  a  speedy  death. 

THE   IMPROVED   SPRINGIE. 

The  accompanying  cut  illustrates  an  improvement  on  the 
last  mentioned  trap,  whereby  it  can  be  used  for  the  capture  of 
larger  game,  and  with  most  excellent  success.  In  place  of  the 
"  spreader  "  a  crotched  stick  is  used,  the  crotch  of  which  cat_hes 
around  the  peg,  the  other  end  being  supplied  with  a  notch  as 

in  the  case  of  the 
spreader.  On  the  up- 
per side  of  this  stick 
a  small  pasteboard 
platform  is  tacked, 
over  which  and  be- 
neath which  the  bait 
\M-I?'S«ii^^^«^'i^^'^2^v^^^  ^  is  thrown.       Instead 

-^X5s^^^:;f'^7^  of    the  arc,    a    stout 

"  "  crotch  stick   is    sub- 

stituted. The  noose  should  be  at  least  ten  inches  in  diameter 
and  constructed  of  sucker  wire.  It  should  be  arranged  on 
the  ground  around  the  bait  and  inside  of  the  peg.  When  the 
snare  is  set,  the  crotched  end  of  the  bait  stick  v/ill  thus  rest 
near  the  earth,  the  notched  end  only  being  lifted  in  order  to 
reach  the  catch  piece.  It  is  well  to  insert  a  few  small  sticks 
inside  the  edge  of  the  noose  in  order  to  keep  it  in  correct  posi- 
tion.    If  properly  set,  the  quail  or  partridge  in  approaching  the 


THE    PLATFORM    SNARE!. 


61 


trap  will  have  to  step  inside  the  noose  in  order  to  reach  the 
bait,  and  while  thus  regahng  itself  with  a  choice  meal  of  oats, 
berries,  or  other  delicacies,  will  be  sure  to  press  upon  the  bait 
stick  either  by  pecking,  or  treading  upon  it,  and  will  thus  set 
the  catch  piece  free,  only  to  find  itself  secured  by  a  grasp 
from  which  he  will  never  escape  alive.  This  is  a  very  effectual 
snare  ;  but  on  account  of  its  securing  its  victim  by  the  legs  and 
thus  torturing  them  to  death,  it  is  to  be  deprecated.  We  would 
recommend  in  preference,  those  varieties  already  described 
as  being  fully  as  successful,  and  far  less  cruel.  They  effect 
almost  instant  death,  either  by  broken  necks  or  strangulation, 
and  are  in  this  regard  among  the  most  humane  traps  on  record. 

THE  FIGURE  FOUR  GROUND   SNARE. 


For  simplicity  in  construction  there  are  few  snare  traps  which 
can  comjDare  with  this  variety,  although  it  is  somewhat  similar 
to  those  last  mentioned,  and  like  them,  catches  by  the  feet. 
The  trap  consists  of  three  pieces.  A  catch  piece  about  three 
inches  long,  a  bait  stick  of  about  six  inches,  and  a  stout  -crotcii 
of  the  proportionate  size  shown  in  our  illustration,  a  glance  at 
which  will  make  the  setting  too  clear  to  need  description.     Be 

careful  that  the  bait 
stick  is  sety?//^  and 
rests  just  beneath 
the  tip  of  the  catch- 
piece  so  that  a  mere 
touch  on  the  bait  will 
release  it.  Arrange 
the  noose  as  in  the 
instance     last     de- 

-^ ■ -^^  scribed,    and     bait 

either  as  therein  directed  or  with  an  apple  or  nubbin  of  corn, 
as  our  accompanymg  cut  indicates.  Always  remembering  that 
the  noose  should  be  sufficiently  large  to  require  the  birds  to 
si^ryinside  of  it  in  order  to  reach  the  bait. 


THE   PLATFORM  SNARE. 


This  odd  invention  will  be  found  to  work  capitally  as  a  game 
trap,  and  the  only  extra  requisite  necessary  consists  of  a  slab 
or  light  board  about  seven  inches  wide,  and  a  foot  in  length. 
Having  selected  the  spot  for  the  trap,  proceed  to  cut  a  stiff 


62 


SNARES    OR    NOOSE   TRAPS. 


switch  abouc  five  feet  in  length,  and  having  sharpened  the  larg- 
er  end  to  a  nice   point,  insert  it  firmly  into  the  ground  in  a 

slanting  direction 
as  our  drawing  il- 
lustrates. Next 
bend  down  the 
tip  of  the  sapling, 
and  resting  one 
end  of  the  board 
on  the  ground, 
catch  the  tip  of 
the  switch  against 
the  other  end,  as 
our  illustration  al- 
so shows.  A  little 
experimenting  will  soon  determine  the  rignt  place  for  the  board, 
after  which  two  pegs  should  be  driven  in  the  ground  at  its  edge 
to  hold  it  against  the  pressure  on  the  opposite  end.  This  being 
done  fasten  a  wire  noose  to  the  tip  of  the  switch,  after  which 
the  pen  is  the  only  thing  required.  This  should  be  built  of 
simple  little  twigs  arranged  around  three  sides  of  the  board, 
leaving  the  front  end  open.  To  set  the  snare,  lower  the  switch 
and  raising  the  board  slightly  at  the  back  end,  catch  the  tip  of 
the  springer  behind  it,  afterwards  arranging  the  noose  over  the 
platform,  and  scattering  the  bait  inside.  If  the  trap  has  been 
constructed  properly  and  set  "  fine  "  it  will  take  but  a  very 
shght  weight  on  the  platform  to  lower  it  from  its  bearing,  the 
weight  of  an  ordinary  bird  being  sufficient,  and  tlie  springer 
thus  released  will  fly  forward  either  catching  its  victim  by  the 
neck  or  legs,  as  the  case  may  be.  It  may  sometimes  be  found 
necessary  to  cut  a  slight  notch  in  the  end  of  the  springer  to 
receive  the  board,  but  in  every  case  it  should  be  tried  several 
times  in  order  to  be  sure  that  it  works  sensitively. 


BOOK  III. 


TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 


MONG  the  following  will  be  found  the 
various  net  and  cage  traps  commonly 
used  in  the  capture  of  winged  game,  be- 
sides several  other  unique  devices  in 
the  shape  of  box  traps,  etc.,  many  of 
which  are  original  with  the  author  of 
this  work  and  appear  in  the  present 
volume  for  the  -first  time  in  book  form, 
Commonest  among  bird-catching  ma- 
chines, is  the  well  known  invention  of 


THE   SIEVE  TRAP. 

This  device  certainly  possesses  one  great  advantage  : — //  is 
not  complicated.  Any'  one  possessed  of  a  sieve  and  a  piece  of 
string  can  get  up  the  trap  at  two  minutes'  notice,  and  provided 
he  has  patience,  and  can  wait  for  his  little  bird,  he  is  almost 
sure  to  be  rewarded  for  his  pains, — if  he  wait  long  enough.  This 
of  course  depends  upon  circumstances  :  when  the  birds  are  plenty 
and  are  not  shy,  it  is  a  common  thing  to  secure  three  or  four  at 
once  in  a  very  few  minutes,  while  at  other  times  an  hour's 
patient  waiting  is  unrewarded. 

The  trap  consists  only  of  a  sieve  tilted  up  on  edge  and  thus 
propped  in  position  by  a  slender  stick.  To  this  stick  a  string  or 
thread  is  attached  and  the  same  carried  to  some  near  place  of 
concealment,  when  the  trapper  may  retire  out  of  sight  and  watch 
for  his  ''little  bird."  The  ground  beneath  the  sieve  is  strewn  with 
bread  crumbs,  seed  or  other  bait,  and  while  the  unsuspecting  birds 
are  enjoying  their  repast,  the  string  is  pulled  and  they  are  made 
prisoners.  The  sieve  maybe  arranged  with  a  spindle  as  described 
for  the  coop  trap,  page  ( (:^ ),  and  may  thus  be  left  to  take  care  of 


66  TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 

itself.  Where  the  birds  are  plenty  and  easily  captured,  the  former 
method  answers  the  purpose  perfectly,  but  when  tedious  waiting 
is  likely  to  ensue  the  self-acting  trap  is  better. 

THE  BRICK  TRAP. 

This  is  a  very  old  invention,  and  has  always  Dcen  one  of  the 
three  or  four  stereotyped  specimens  of  traps  selected  for  publi- 
cation in  all  Boys'  Books.  It  is  probably  well  known  to  most 
of  our  readers. 

Take  four  bricks,  and  arrange  them  on  the  ground,  as  seen  in 
our  engraving,  letting  them  rest  on  their  narrow  sides.  If  prop- 
erly arranged,  they  should  have  a  space  between  them,  nearly  as 
large  as  the  broad  surface  of  the  brick.  A  small,  forked  twig  of 
the  shape  shown  in  the  separate  drawing  (^)  having  a  small  piece 
cut  away  from  each  side  of  the  end,  should  then  be  procured. 
Next  cut  a  slender  stick,  about  four  inches  in  length,  bluntly 


pointed  at  each  end.  A  small  plug  with  a  flat  top  should  now  be 
driven  into  the  ground,  inside  the  trap,  about  three  inches  from 
either  of  the  end  bricks  and  projecting  about  two  inches  from 
the  ground.  The  trap  is  then  ready  to  be  set.  Lay  the  flat  end 
of  the  forked  twig  over  the  top  of  the  plug,  with  the  forks  point- 
ing forward,  or  toward  the  end  of  the  enclosure  nearest  the  plug. 
The  pointed  stick  should  then  be  adjusted,  placing  one  end  on 
the  flat  end  of  the  fork,  over  the  plug,  and  the  other  beneath  the 
fifth  brick,  which  should  be  rested  upon  it.  The  drawing  {b)  clearly 
shows  the  arrangement  of  the  pieces.  The  bait,  consisting  of 
berries,  bird-seed,  or  other  similar  substances,  should  then  be  - 
scattered  on  the  irround   on   the  inside  of  the  inclosure.     When 


THE   COOP   TRAP.  67 

the  bird  flies  to  the  trap  he  will  generally  alight  on  the  forked 
twig,  which  by  his  weight  tilts  to  one  side  and  dislodges  the  pieces, 
thus  letting  fall  the  sustained  brick. 

It  is  not  intended  to  kill  the  bird,  and  when  rightly  constructed 
will  capture  it  alive.  Care  is  necessary  in  setting  the  topmost 
brick  in  such  a  position  that   it  will  fall  aright,  and  completely 


^'^  ^jr^- 


cover  the  open  space.  This  is  a  very  simple  and  effectual  little 
contrivance,  and  oan  be  made  with  a  i?ox  instead  of  bricks,  if 
desired.  A  piece  of  board  may  also  be  substituted  for  the  top 
brick,  and  the  enclosure  beneath  made  larger  by  spreading  the 
bricks  further  apart,  thus  making  a  more  roomy  dungeon  for  the 
captive  bird. 

THE   COOP   TRAP. 

This  is  another  excellent  device  for  the  capture  of  birds  and 
large  feathered  game,  and  is  used  to  a  considerable  extent  by 
trappers  throughout  the  country.  Like  the  brick  trap,  it  secures 
its  victims  without  harm  and  furnishes  the  additional  advantage 
of  good  ventilation  for  the  encaged  unfortunate.  Any  ordinary 
coop  may  be  used  in  the  construction  of  this  trap,  although 
the  homely  one  we  illustrate  is  most  commonly  employed  on 
account  of  its  simplicity  and  easy  manufacture.  It  also  does 
away  with  the  troublesome  necessity  of  carrying  a  coop  to  the 
trapping  ground,  as  it  can  be  made  in  a  very  few  minutes  with 
common  rough  hewn  twigs  by  the  clever  use  of  the  jack  knife.  The 
only  remaining  requisites  consist  of  a  few  yards  of  very  stout 
Indian  twine,  several  small  squares  of  brown  pasteboard,  a  dozen 
tacks  and  a  number  of  pieces  of  board  five  inches  square,  each  one 
having  a  hole  through  its  centre,  as  our  engraving  (d)  indicates. 
Having  these,  the  young  trapper  starts  out  with  material  sufficient 


68 


TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 


for   several  coops,  and  if  he  is   smart  will  find  no  difficulty  in 
making  and  setting  a  dozen  traps  in  a  forenoon. 

In  constructing  the  coop,  the  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  cut 
four  stout  twigs  about  an  inch  in  thickness  and  fifteen  inches  in 
length  and  tie  them  together  at  the  corners,  letting  the  knot  come 
on  the  inside  as  our  illustration  {a)  explains  and  leaving  a  loose 


length  of  about  two  feet  of  string  from  each  corner.  This  forms 
the  base  of  the  coop.  Next  collect  from  a  number  of  twigs  of 
about  the  same  thickness,  and  from  them  select  two  more  cor- 
responding in  length  to  the  bottom  pieces.  Having  placed  the 
base  of  the  coop  on  the  ground,  and  collected  the  strings  inside 
proceed  to  lay  the  two  selected    sticks  across   the  ends  of  the 


THE   COOP   TRAP.  69 

Uppermost  two  of  the  square,  and  directly  above  the  lower  two. 
Another  pair  of  twigs  exactly  similar  in  size  should  then  be  cut 
and  laid  across  the  ends  of  tlie  last  two,  and  directly  above  the 
second  set  of  the  bottom  portion,  thus  forming  two  squares  of 
equal  size,  one  directly  over  the  other.  The  next  pair  of  sticks 
•should  be  a  trifle  shorter  than  the  previous  ones  and  should  be 
placed  a  little  inside  the  square.  Let  the  next  two  be  of  the 
same  size  as  the  last  and  also  rest  a  little  inside  of  those  beneath 
them,  thus  forming  the  commencement  of  the  conical  shape 
which  our  engraving  presents.  By  thus  continuing  alternate  layers 
of  the  two  sticks  cob-house  fashion,  each  layer  being  closer  than 
the  one  previous,  the  pyramid  will  be  easily  and  quickly  formed. 
After  ten  or  a  dozen  sets  have  been  laid  in  place,  the  arm 
should  be  introduced  into  the  opening  at  the  top,  and  the  four 
cords  drawn  out,  letting  each  one  lay  along  its  inside  corner  of 
the  pyramid.  Taking  the  strings  loosely  in  the  left  hand  and 
having  the  twigs  in  readiness,  proceed  to  build  up  the  sides 
until  the  opening  at  the  top  is  reduced  to  only  four  or  five  inches 
across.  The  square  board  will  now  come  into  play.  Pass  the 
ends  of  the  cords  through  the  hole  in  its  centre  and  rest  the 
edge  of  the  board  on  the  top  pair  of  sticks,  taking  care  that  it  is 
the  tip  of  the  grain  of  the  wood  instead  of  its  side,  as  other- 
wise it  would  be  likely  to  crack  froni  the  pressure  that  is  about 
to  be  brought  upon  it.  Have  ready  a  stout  peg  of  hard  wood, 
and  laying  it  over  the  hole  in  the  board,  and  between  the  strings, 
proceed  to  tie  the  latter  as  tightly  as  possible  over  it.  By  now 
turning  the  peg,  the  cords  will  be  twisted  and  tightened  and  the 
various  pieces  of  the  coops  will  be  drawn  together  with  great 
firmness,  in  which  state  they  may  be  secured  by  the  aid  of  a  tack 
driven  in  the  top  board  against  the  end  of  the  peg  as  shown  at 
{b).  Thus  we  have  a  neat  and  serviceable  coop,  which  v/ill  last 
for  many  seasons.  To  set  the  affair  it  is  necessary  to  cut  three 
sticks  of  the  shapes  shown  in  our  illustration.  The  prop  piece 
is  a  slender  forked  twig  about  ten  inches  in  length  from  the  tip 
to  the  base  of  the  crotch.  The  spindle  is  another  hooked  twig  of 
the  same  length :  the  bait  jMece  is  quite  similar  to  the  latter,  only 
an  inch  shorter  and  supplied  with  a  square  notch  at  the  tip.  It 
is  also  slightly  whittled  off  on  the  upper  side  to  receive  the 
square  of  pasteboard  or  tin,  which  is  to  hold  the  bait  and  which 
may  be  easily  fastened  in  place  by  a  tack.  All  of  these  twigs 
may  be  easily  found  in  any  thicket  by  a  little  practice  in  searching. 
In  setting  the  trap,  it  is  only  necessary  to  raise  up  one  side  of  the 
coop  to  the  height  of  the  prop  stick,  insert  the  short  arm  of  the 


yo  TRAPS    FOR    FEATHERED    GAME. 

spindle  through  the  fork  and  beneath  the  edge  of  the  coop. 
While  holding  it  thus  in  position,  hook  the  crotch  of  the  bait 
stick  around  the  lower  piece  at  the  back  of  the  coop,  and  pushing 
the  end  of  the  spindle  inside  the  coop,  catch  it  in  the  notch  of 
the  bait  stick  where  it  will  hold,  and  the  trap  is  ready  to  be 
baited.  The  bait  may  consist  of  oats,  wheat,  ^'nannie  berries"  or 
the  like,  and  should  be  strewn  both  on  the  platform  and  over  the 
ground  directly  beneath  and  around  it.  If  properly  set,  a  mere 
peck  at  the  corn  will  be  sufficient  to  dislodge  the  pieces  and  the 
coop  will  fall  over  its  captive.  It  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to 
fmd  two  or  even  three  quail  encaged  in  a  trap  of  this  kind  at  one 
fall,  and  after  the  first  momentary  fright  is  over,  they  seem  to 
resign  themselves  to  their  fate  and  take  to  their  confinement  as 
naturally  as  if  they  had  been  brought  up  to  it. 

The  method  of  setting  the  coop  trap  above  described  is  a  great 
improvement  on  the  old  style  of  setting,  and  is  an  improvement 
original  with  the  author  of  this  work.  In  the  old  method  a 
semi-circular  hoop  of  rattan  is  used  in  place  of  the  bait  stick 
above.  The  ends  of  the  rattan  are  fastened  to  one  of  the  lower 
back  pieces  of  the  coop,  and  the  hoop  is  just  large  enough  to 
fit  inside  the  opening  of  the  coop.  This  rattan  rests  just  above 
the  ground,  and  the  spindle  catches  against  its  inside  edge  in 
place  of  the  notch  in  the  bait  stick  already  described,  the 
bait  being  scattered  inside  the  hoop.  When  the  bird  approaches, 
it  steps  upon  the  rattan,  and  thus  pressing  it  downward  releases 
the  spindle  and  the  coop  falls ;  but  experience  has  shown  the 
author  that  it  does  not  always  secure  its  intruders,  but  as  often 
falls  upon  their  backs  and  sends  them  off  limping  to  regain  their 
lost  senses.  By  the  author's  improvement  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
whole  body  of  the  bird  must  be  beneath  the  coop  before  the  bait 
sticks  can  be  reached  and  that  when  properly  set  it  is  absolute- 
ly certain  to  secure  its  victim.  The  author  can  recommend  it  as 
infallible,  and  he  feels  certain  that  any  one  giving  both  methods 
a  fair  trial  will  discard  the  old  method  as  worthless  in  com- 
parison. 

THE  BAT  FOWLING    NET. 

With  English  bird-catchers  this  contrivance  is  in  common 
use,  but  so  far  as  we  know  it  has  not  been  utilized  to  any  great 
extent  in  this  country.  It  is  chiefly  used  at  night  by  the  aid  of 
a  lantern,  and  large  numbers  of  sparrows  and  other  birds  are 
often  secured. 


THE   BAT   FOWLING    NET. 


71 


Our  illustration  gives  a  very  clear  idea  of  the  net,  which  may 
be  constructed  as  follows  :  Procure 
two  light  flexible  poles,  about  eight 
feet  in  length;  to  the  tip  of  each 
a  cord  should  be  attached,  and  the 
same  secured  to  the  middle  of  the 
pole,  having  drawn  down  the  tip  to 
the  bend,  shown  in  our  engraving. 
The  two  bent  ends  should  now  be 
attached  together  by  a  hinge  of 
leather.  A  piece  of  mosquito  net- 
ting is  next  in  order,  and  it  should 
be  of  such  a  size  as  to  cover  the 
upper  bent  halves  of  the  poles,  as 
seen  in  the  illustration — the  bottom 
edge  being  turned  up  into  a  bag, 
about  ten  inches  in  depth.  The 
contrivance  is  now  complete,  and  is 
used  as  follows :  Three  persons 
are  generally  required,  and  a  dark 
night  is  chosen.  Hay  stacks,  ever- 
greens, and  thick  bushes  offer  a 
favorite  shelter  to  numerous  small 
birds,  and  it  is  here  that  they  are 
sought  by  the  bird-hunters.  A 
breezy  night  is  preferable,  as  the 
birds  perch  low,  and  are  not  so 
easily  startled  by  unusual  sounds. 

Great  caution,  however,  is  used 
in  the  approach.  One  party  holds 
the  light,  which  is  generally  a  dark  lantern,  another  takes 
the  net,  and  the  third  arms  himself  with  a  switch  with  which 
to  beat  the  bushes.  The  net  is  first  held  upright  about  a 
foot  from  the  bush,  and  the  light  thrown  upon  the  back 
of  it.  The  bush  is  then  moderately  beaten,  and  the  birds 
affrighted  and  bewildered  fly  against  the  net,  which  is  instantly 
closed.  The  bird  is  thus  captured,  and  when  a  full  roost  can  be 
discovered  a  large  number  may  be  taken  in  a  single  night.  The 
lantern  should  be  closed  while  not  in  actual  use,  and  everything 
should  be  done  as  quietly  as  possible.  The  dark  lantern  in 
itself  is  useful  without  the  net.  The  light  often  so  bewilders 
the  bird  that  it  flies  directly  in  the  face  of  the  lantern  and  flutters 
to  the  ground,  where  it  may  be  easily  taken  with  the  hand.  . 
6 


72 


TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 


THE  CLAP  NET. 

In  Asia,  Africa,  South  America  and  Europe,  this  trap  is  a 
common  resource  for  the  capture  of  wild  birds  of  various  kinds. 
It  may  be  called  a  "  decoy  "  trap,  from  the  fact  that  "  call  birds  ' ' 
are  generally  used  in  connection  with  it.  They  are  placed  at 
distances  around  the  trap,  and  attract  the  wild  birds  to  the 
spot  by  their  cries.  These  birds  are  especially  trained  for 
the  purpose,  but  almost  any  tamed  bird  that  chirps  will 
attract  its  mates  from  the  near  neighborhood,  and  answer  the 
purpose  very  well.  Sometimes  the  '^decoys"  are  entirely 
dispensed  with,  and  the  "bird  whistle"  used  in  their  stead. 
This  will  be  described  hereafter,  and  inasmuch  as  the  training 
of  a  ^' decoy"  would  be  a  rather  difficult  matter,  we  rather 
recommend  the  use  of  the  bird  whistle.  The  skill  and  absolute 
perfection  of  mimicry  which  is  often  attained  by  bird  fanciers, 
with  the  use  of  this  little  whistle,  is  something  surprising. 


d.  Draw  roj)C. 
■zz^  1.  Loop, 

ssss.  3iaK.^6 

rrrr,  tstay-ropcs. 

No  matter  what  the  species  of  bird — whether  crow,  bobolink* 
thrush  or  sparrow,  the  song  or  call  is  so  exactly  imitated  as  to 
deceive  the  most  experienced  naturalist,  and  even  various  birds 
themselves.  Of  course  this  requires  practice,  but  even  a  tyro 
may  soon  learn  to  use  the  whistle  to  good  advantage. 

The  clap  net  commonly  used,  is  a  large  contrivance — so  large 
that  several  hundred  pigeons  are  often  caught  at  once.  It 
is  "sprung"  by  the  bird-hunter,  who  lies  in  ambush  watching 
for  the  game.  The  net  is  generally  constructed  as  follows,  and 
may  be  made  smaller  if  desired : — 


THE    CLAP    NET.  73 

Procure  two  pieces  of  strong  thread  netting,  each  about 
fifteen  feet  in  length,  and  five  feet  in  width.  Four  wooden  rods 
one  inch  in  thickness  and  five  feet  in  length  are  next  required. 
These  may  be  constructed  of  pine,  ash,  or  any  other  light  wood, 
and  one  should  be  securely  whipped  to  each  end  of  the  netting. 
Now  by  the  aid  of  a  gimlet  or  a  red-hot  iron,  the  size  of  a  slate 
pencil,  bore  a  hole  through  one  end  of  every  piece  one  inch  from 
the  tip,  taking  care  that  the  ends  selected  lay  on  the  same  side 
of  the  net.  The  other  extremities  of  the  four  poles  should  be 
supplied,  each  with  a  large  screw  eye.  Four  pegs  are  next  in 
order — one  of  which  is  shown  separate  at  (P).  It  should 
be  about  eight  inches  in  length,  and  three  inches  in  width,  and 
an  inch  in  thickness,  and  sharpened  to  a  point  at  one  end.  The 
other  end  should  be  supplied  with  a  notch  two  inches  in  depth 
and  of  such  a  width  as  will  easily  secure  the  perforated  end  of 
one  of  the  poles  already  described.  By  the  use  of  the  gimlet  or 
a  red-hot  nail,  a  hole  should  now  be  bored  through  the  side  of 
every  peg  across  the  centre  of  the  notch  for  the  reception  of  a 
wire  pin  or  smooth  nail. 

The  nets  may  now  be  rolled  up  on  the  poles,  and  the  trap- 
per may  thus  easily  carry  them  to  his  selected  trapping  ground. 
This  should  be  smooth  and  free  from  stones  and  irregularities. 
Unroll  the  nets  and  spread  them  flatly  on  the  ground,  as  seen  in 
the  illustration.  Let  the  perforated  ends  of  the  poles  be  inner- 
most, and  allow  a  space  of  six  feet  between  the  inner  edges  of 
the  nets.  Draw  the  net  flatly  on  the  ground,  and  drive  one  of 
the  notched  pegs  at  each  of  the  inside  corners,  securing  the 
poles  into  the  slots  by  the  aid  of  the  wire  pins  or  nails.  Next 
cut  four  stakes  eight  or  ten  inches  long.  The  places  for  these 
may  be  seen  by  a  look  at  our  engraving.  ^=  Each  one  should  be 
inserted  Jive  fee^  distant  from  the  notched  peg,  and  exactly  on  a 
line  with  the  tftside  edge  of  the  net — one  for  each  corner.  They 
should  slant  from  the  net  in  every  case.  To  each  one  of  these 
stakes  a  stay-rope  should  be  secured,  and  the  other  end  passed 
through  the  screw  eye  of  the  nearest  pole,  drawing  the  string 
tightly,  so  as  to  stretch  the  net  perfectly  square.  Next,  take  a 
piece  of  cord,  about  twenty  fcet^in  length,  and  fasten  it  across 
the  ends  of  the  net  into  the  screw  eyes  in  the  poles.  This  is 
the  loop  to  which  the  draw-string  is  attached,  and  either  end  of 
the  net  may  be  chosen  for  this  purpose.  To  this  loop,  and  a 
little  one  side  of  the  middle^  the  draw-string  should  be  fastened. 
If  secured  exactly  in  the  middlcof  the  loop,  the  two  nets  will 
strike  when  the  draw-rope   is  pulled,  whereas    when  adjusted 


74-  TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 

a  little  to  one  side,  the  nearest  net  will  move  a  trifle  faster  than 
the  other,  and  they  will  overlap  neatly  and  without  striking — 
completely  covering  the  ground  between  them.  When  the  trap 
is  spread  the  draw-rope  should  extend  to  some  near  shelter 
where  the  bird-catcher  may  secrete  himself  from  view.  Spread- 
ing the  bait  on  the  ground  between  the  nets,  and  arranging  his 
call  birds  at  the  proper  distances,  he  awaits  his  opportunity  of 
springing  his  nets.  At  the  proper  minute,  when  the  ground  is 
dotted  with  his  game,  he  pulls  the  draw-string,  and  the  birds  are 
secured. 

Immense  numbers  of  wild  fowl  are  often  captured  in  this  way. 

The  "  bird  whistle,"  already  alluded  to,  is  often  used  with 
good  effect,  it  being  only  sufficient  to  attract  the  birds  to  such  a 
proximity  to  the  net  as  will  enable  them  to  spy  the  bait,  after 
which  their  capture  is  easily  effected. 

THE  BIRD   WHISTLE. 

This  instrument,  also  known  as  the  prairie  whistle,  is  clearly 
shown  in  our  illustration.  It  is  constructed  as  follows  :  First,  pro- 
cure a  piece  of  morocco  or  thin  leather.  From  it  cut  a  circular 
piece  one  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter.  Through  the  centre 
of  this  disc,  cut  a  round  hole,  one-third  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
A  semi-circular  piece  of  tin  is  next  required.  It  should  be  of 
the  shape  of  an  arc,  as  seen  in  our  illustration ;  its  width 
across  the  ends  being  about  three-quarters 
of  an  inch,  and  its  entire  length  being 
pierced  with  a  row  of  fine  holes.  Next  pro- 
cure a  piece  of  thin  sheet  India  rubber  or 
gold  beater's  skin.  Cut  a  strip  about  an 
inch  in  length  by  half  an  inch  in  width,  and 
lay  one  of  its  long  edges  directly  across  the 
opening  in  the  leather  disc.  Fold  the 
leather  in  half  (over  the  rubber),  and  draw 
the  latter  tightly.  Next  lay  on  the  arc  of 
tin  in  the  position  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion, and  by  the  aid  of  a  fme  needle  and 
thread  sew  it  through  the  holes,  including  both  leather  and 
rubber  in  the  stitches.  When  this  is  done,  the  whistle  is 
complete.  If  the  gold  beater's  skin  is  not  attainable,  a  good 
substitute  may  be  found  in  the  thin  outer  membrane  of  the 
leaf  of  a  tough  onion  or  leak,  the  pulp  being  scraped 
away. 


THE   WILD   GOOSE   TRAi  .  75 

To  use  the  whistle,  place  it  against  the  roof  of  the  mouth, 
till  side  up,  and  with  the  edge  of  the  rubber  towards  the  front. 
When  once  wet,  it  will  adhere  to  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  and 
by  skilful  blowing,  it  can  be  made  to  send  forth  a  most  sur- 
prising variety  of  sounds.  The  quack  of  the  duck  and  the 
song  of  the  thrush  may  be  made  to  follow  each  other  in  a 
single  breath,  and  the  squeal  of  a  pig  or  the  neigh  of  a  horse 
are  equally  within  its  scope.  In  short,  there  is  scarcely  any 
animal,  whether  bird  or  quadruped,  the  cry  of  which  may  not 
be  easily  imitated  by  a  skilful  use  of  the  prairie  whistle,  or, 
indeed,  as  it  might  with  propriety  be  called,  the  "  menagerie 
whistle." 

THE  WILD  GOOSE  TRAP. 

In  our  northern  cold  regions,  where  the  wild  geese  and 
ptarmigan  flock  in  immense  numxbers,  this  trap  is  commonly  util- 
ized. It  consists  merely  of  a  large  net  fifty  feet  in  length, 
and  fifteen  in  width,  arranged  on  a  framevvrork,  and  propped 
in  a  slanting  position  by  two  poles,  after  the  manner  of  the 
sieve  trap.  It  is  generally  set  on  the  ice  ;  and  the  trapper,  after 
attaching  his  strings  to  the  props,  and  sprinkling  his  bait  at 
the  foot  of  the  net,  retires  to  a  distance  to  await  his  chances. 
Tame  geese  are  often  used  as  decoys,  and  sometimes  the  bird 
whistle  already  described  is  used  for  the  same  purpose.  For 
the  capture  of  the  ptarmigan,  the  bait  consists  of  a  heap  of 
gravel.  It  is  hard  to  imagine  a  less  tempting  allurement,  but,  as 
the  food  of  the  birds  during  the  winter  is  sapless  and  hard,  it 
becomes  necessary  for  them  to  swallow  a  considerable  amount 
of  gravel  to  promote  digestion.  The  great  depth  of  the  snow 
renders  this  commodity  very  scarce  during  the  winter  season ; 
and  the  Indians,  taking  advantage  of  this  fact,  succeed  in  cap- 
turing immense  numbers  of  the  game  in  nets  by  the  use  of  that 
simple  allurement.  The  gravel  is  packed  on  the  surface  of  a  pile 
of  snow,  placed  under  the  centre  of  the  net,  and  the  draw-string 
is  carried  to  some  neighboring  shrubbery  or  place  of  conceal- 
ment, where  the  trapper  can  always  get  at  it  without  being 
seen  by  the  birds  under  the  net. 

When  everything  is  thus  prepared,  the  hunters  start  out  into 
the  adjacent  woods  and  willows,  and  drive  their  game  toward 
the  nets.  This  is  generally  an  easy  matter,  and,  no  sooner 
do  the  birds  come  in  sight  of  the  heap  of  gravel,  than  they 
fly  tov/ards  it  en  masse,  and  the  ground  beneath  the  net  is  soon 


76 


TRAPS    FOR    FEATHERED    GAME. 


covered  with  the  hungry  game.  The  hunter  then  goes  to  the 
end  of  the  line,  and,  with  a  sudden  pull,  hauls  down  the  stakes  : 
the  net  falls  over  the  birds,  and  they  are  prisoners. 

Hundreds  of  ptarmigan  are  often  thus  caught  by  a  single 
sweep  of  the  net.  The  trap  is  simply  arranged,  and  may  be 
constructed  on  a  reduced  scale  for  smaller  birds,  if  de- 
sired. 

THE  TRAP   CAGE. 

Among  bird-catchers  generally,  this  is  the  favorite  and 
most  universal  trap ;  and,  where  a  decoy  bird  is  used,  it  is 
particularly  successful.     The  cage  is  arranged  in  two  compart- 


THE   TRAP   CAGE. 


77 


ments,  one  above  the  other,  —  the  lower  one  being  occupied 
by  the  call-birds .  The  making  of  the  cage  requires  consider- 
able ingenuity  and  much  patience  ;  and,  for  the  benefit  of  those 
who  may  desire  to  exercise  that  patient  ingenuity,  we  will  sub- 
join a  few  hints,  which  may  help  them  along  in  their  efforts. 
For  an  ordinary  cage,  the  height  should  be  about  one  foot, 
the  broad  sides  the  same,  and  the  top  and  other  two  sides 
eight  inches.  First  cut  four  corner  uprights.  These  should 
be  three-quarters  of  an  inch  square,  and  one  foot  in  length. 
Next  cut  a  bottom  board  of  pine,  twelve  inches  by  eight 
inches,  and  one  inch  in  thickness.  From  each  of  its  corners, 
cut  a  small  cube  of  the  wood,  exactly  three-quarters  of  an  inch 


square,  thus  leaving  four  notches,  which  will  exactly  receive 
the  ends  of  the  uprights,  as  seen  at  (a).  Before  adjusting 
these  pieces,  the  four  sides  of  the  boards  should  be  pierced 
with  small  holes,  as  is  also  shown  in  the  diagram  (a).  These 
may  be  punched  with  a  brad-awl,  and  should  be  about  half 
an  inch  apart,  and  three-eighths  of  an  inch  from  the  edge  of 
the  board.  Each  one  of  the  uprights  may  then  be  secured 
in  place  by  two  long  brads,  one  being  hammered  each  way 
into  each  side  of  the  notch.  Next  proceed  to  cut  four  more 
of  the  square  sticks.  Two  of  these  should  be  one  foot  in 
length,  and  the  remaining  two  eight  inches.  The  corners  orf 
these  should  now  be  neatly  bevelled  off,  so  as  to  fit  after  the 
manner  of  a  picture-frame.     They  should  then  be  attached  to 


78  TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERr:)  GAME. 

the  upper  ends  of  the  uprights  by  a  brad  through  the  corner  of 
each,  as  seen  at  {b),  the  dotted  Hues  indicating  the  end  of  the 
upright  beneath.  These  sticks  should  Hkewise  be  pierced 
with  holes  to  correspond  with  those  in  the  bottom  board,  and 
running  up  and  down  in  the  direction  of  the  wires. 

The  middle  tier  of  braces  are  next  required.  Two  of 
these  should  be  ten  and  a  half  inches  in  length,  and  the 
other  two  six  and  a-half,  and  the  ends  should  be  perfectly 
smooth.  These  should  now  be  punched  with  holes  cor- 
responding with  those  above,  after  which  they  may  be  inserted 
between  the  uprights  as.  seen  in  the  engraving,  and  secured 
by  a  brad  at  each  end. 

The  trap  door  is  shown  separate  at  {c).  The  side  sticks 
should  be  eight  inches  in  length,  and  one-half  an  inch  square, 
and  the  top  and  bottom  sticks  five  inches  in  length.  They 
should  be  set  in  between  the  side  sticks,  and  the  lower  one 
should  be  secured  about  half  an  inch  above  the  lower  ends  of 
the  uprights,  as  seen  in  the  illustration.  The  holes  should  be 
made  in  the  side  pieces,  and  the  wire  run  across  from  side  to 
side,  as  shown.  Annealed  iron,  or  copper  wire  is  best  for  this 
purpose.  The  door  should  now  be  pivoted  or  hinged  at  the  top 
of  the  cage,  between  the  long  sides,  in  such  a  position  as  that 
the  top  end  shall  rest  on  one  of  the  narrow  upper  edges  of  the 
cage.  A  stiff  wire  should  be  used  for  the  hinge,  being  passed 
through  the  top  pieces  of  the  cage  into  the  lower  ends  of  the 
door  pieces.  The  cage  may  now  be  wired  throughout.  This  is 
an  easy  matter,  if  the  holes  are  properly  made.  About  thirty 
yards  of  the  wire  will  be  required  :  iron  wire  is  generally  used. 
It  should  be  about  the  size  of  a  hair-pin,  and  should  work  easily. 
Commence  by  passing  it  from  the  under  side  of  the  bottom 
board  through  one  of  the  holes  next  to  the  corner.  Pass  the 
v/ire  upward,  through  the  centre  braces,  again  upward  through 
the  top  piece  and  across  to  the  opposite  broad  side  and  corre- 
sponding hole.  From  this  point  it  should  pass  dowmwards, 
through  centre  brace,  and  again  through  the  bottom.  Draw  the 
wire  tightly  and  passing  it  upward  through  the  hole  next  to  it, 
bring  it  over  the  top  of  the  cage  and  around  again  to  the  bot- 
tom edge  from  which  it  started.  Continue  thus  until  the  hinge 
of  the  door  is  reached ;  after  which  the  wire  should  be  passed 
up  and  down  on  the  same  side  and  thus  carried  around  the  small 
end  of  the  cage  until  it  finally  meets  at  the  door  hinge  on  the 
opposite  side.  The  two  halves  of  the  cage  should  now  be  sepa- 
rated by  a  grating  of  wire,  as  seen  in  the  main  illustration.    This 


THE   TRAP,  CAGE.  ^9 

may  be  accomplished  either  by  passing  the  wire  from  side  to 
side,  around  the  base  of  each  upright  wire,  or  an  additional 
horizontal  row  of  holes  below  the  others  may  be  punched  for 
the  purpose.  The  door  through  which  the  call-bird  is  intro- 
duced should  next  be  made  in  the  bottom  section.  There  are 
two  ways  of  doing  this :  one  method  consists  in  sawing  a  hole 
three  inches  square  in  the  bottom  board  of  the  cage  ;  and  a  cover 
consisting  of  a  piece  of  tin  is  made  to  slide  beneath  the  heads 
of  four  tacks,  two  of  which  are  placed  on  each  side  of  the  opening. 
This  form  of  door  is  perhaps  the  simplest  of  the  two.  The 
other  is  shown  separate  at  (/"),  together  with  its  mode  of  attach- 
ment. 

It  consists  of  two  side  pieces  of  wood,  about  a  third  of  an  inch 
square,  and  three  inches  in  length,  and  two  shorter  ones,  two 
inches  in  length.  These  are  arranged  into  a  square  framework 
by  a  board  in  each  corner.  Four  holes  are  to  be  pierced  in  each 
side  piece,  at  equal  distances.  Commencing  at  the  top,  the  door 
should  then  be  wired  as  directed  for  the  cage.  The  lowest 
hole  on  each  side  should  be  left  open  for  a  separate  piece  of 
wire.  The  cage  should  now  receive  attention.  The  broad  side 
is  generally  selected  for  the  door.  Find  the  seven  centre  wires 
and  connect  them  across  the  middle  by  another  horizontal  bit  of 
wire.  This  may  be  easily  done  with  a  pair  of  pincers,  by  com- 
pressing a  loop  at  each  end  of  the  wire  around  the  two  which 
run  perpendicularly  at  its  ends.  When  this  is  performed  the  five 
intermediate  wires  should  be  cut  off  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
below  the  horizontal  wire,  and  the  projecting  tips  looped  back 
over  the  cross  piece,  and  made  fast  by  the  pincers.  The  lower 
parts  of  the  upright  wires  may  now  be  cut  off  close  to  the  board. 
We  will  now  take  up  the  door.  Pass  a  piece  of  wire  through 
the  holes  at  the  bottom,  clap  the  door  over  the  opening,  and  loop 
the  ends  of  the  projecting  wire  loosely  around  the  upright  wires 
at  each  side.  This  will  allow  the  door  to  sh'de  easily  up  and 
down.  Another  wire  should  now  be  interlaced  downwards 
through  the  centre  of  the  door,  and  bent  mto  a  nng  at  the  top. 
Let  the  door  rest  on  the  bottom  of  the  cage,  and,  while  in  this 
position,  adjust  the  ring  at  the  top  around  the  central  wire 
directly  behind  it.  The  door  is  then  complete,  and,  if  properly 
made,  will  look  neat  and  work  easily. 

The  "  trap "  at  the  top  of  the  cage  is  next  in  order.  To 
complete  this  it  is  first  necessary  to  interweave  a  stiff  vfiro.  loop, 
as  seen  at  {d).  The  loop  should  extend  on  the  inside  of  the 
lower  piece  of  the  door  and  about  two  inches  below  it.     The 


5v>  TRAPS    FOR    FEATHERED   GAME. 

Spring  ^o\yer  consists  of  a  piece  of  stiff  hoop-skirt  wire,  inter- 
woven between  the  wires  of  the  top  of  the  cage,  and  those  of 
the  door,  while  the  latter  is  shut.  The  force  of  this  will  be 
sufficient  to  bring  down  the  door  with  a  snap ;  and  for  further 
security  a  catch,  such  as  is  described  in  page  {^^\  may  be  added 
if  desired. 

The  spindle  is  next  required.  This  is  shown  at  {g),  and 
consists  of  a  small  perch  of  wood  seven  inches  in  length,  and 
notched  at  each  end.  In  setting  the  trap,  the  door  should  be 
raised  as  seen  in  the  main  illustration.  One  of  tde  notches  in 
the  spindle  should  now  be  caught  beneath  the  loop  and  the 
other  around  one  of  the  central  wires  in  the  end  of  the  cage. 
The  bait,  consisting  of  a  berry,  bird-seed,  or  what-not,  may  be 
either  fastened  to  the  spindle  or  placed  beneath  on  the  wires. 
The  call-bird  having  been  introduced,  the  trap  may  now  be  left 
to  itself.  If  the  call-bird  is  well  trained  it  will  not  be  many 
minutes  before  the  birds  of  the  neighborhood  will  be  attracted 
to  the  spot  by  its  cries.  Ere  long  one  less  cautious  than  the 
rest  will  be  seen  to  perch  upon  the  top  of  the  cage.  He  soon 
discovers  the  bait,  and  alighting  upon  the  perch,  throws  it 
asunder,  and  in  an  instant  the  trap  door  closes  over  its  captive. 
The  cage  is  sometimes  constructed  double,  having  two  compart- 
ments beneath  for  call-birds,  and  two  traps  above,  in  general 
resembling  two  of  the  single  traps  placed  side  by  side.  The 
decoy  bird  is  not  an  absolute  necessity  to  the  success  of  the 
trap.  Many  birds  are  caught  simply  by  the  bait  alone.  The 
trap  cage,  when  constructed  on  a  larger  scale,  is  often  success- 
fully employed  in  the  capture  of  the  owl.  In  this  case  it  is 
baited  with  a  live  mouse  or  bird,  and  set  during  the  evening  in 
a  conspicuous  place.  A  trap  working  on  this  principle,  being 
especially  adapted  to  the  capture  of  the  owl,  wiU  be  noticed 
hereafter. 

THE   SPRING   N^T  TRAP. 


Although  slightly  complicated  in  construction,  our  next  illus- 
tration preserkj^  one  of  the  prettiest  bird  traps  on  record,  and 
may  be  made  in  the  following  manner,  and  by  frequently  refer- 
ring to  the  picture,  our  explanation  will  be  easily  understood. 

The  first  step  is  to  make  or  procure  a  low  flat  box,  about 
fifteen  inches  long,  by  ten  inches  in  width,  with  a  depth  of 
about  two  inches.     Next  fasten  an  interior  box,  of  the  same 


THE   SPRING    NET   TRAP. 


8l 


height,  leavino^  a  space  of  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  be- 
tween them  all  round.  A  platform  should  now  be  made.  Let 
it  be  of  such  a  size  that  it  will  just  fit  in  the  interior  box,  with  a 
very  slight  space  all  around  its  edge.  It  should  then  be  pivot- 
ed in  the  upper  part  of  this  box  by  two  small  slender  pins,  one 
being  driven  through  into  its  edge,  at  the  centre  of  each  end. 
Let  it  be  sensitively  poised.  The  next  thing  to  be  done,  is  to 
arrange  the  spindle  and  catch.  The  latter  should  consist  of  a 
tack  or  small  bit  of  wood  fastened  on  the  middle  of  the  platform, 
about  an  inch  from  one  end,  as  seen  both  in  the  main  illustra- 
tion and  in  the  diagram  at  {b). 

The  spindle  should  consist  of  a  flat  piece  of  wood,  secured 
with  a  leather  hinge  to  the  edge  of  the  outside  box,  directly  op- 


posite the  catch.  Let  it  be  long  enough  to  reach  and  barely 
hold  itself  beneath  the  catch.  When  thus  in  its  position,  two 
small  plugs  should  next  be  driven  into  the  edge  of  the  inner 
box,  one  on  each  side  of  thei  spindle,  thus  holding  it  in  place. 
A  glance  at  our  illustration  makes  this  clear.  The  netting  and 
"  hoop  "  are  next  in  order.  The  hoop  should  consist  of  an  iron 
wire  of  the  diameter  of  common  telegraph  wire. 

For  a  box  of  the  size  we  have  given,  a  length  of  about  twenty- 
eight  inches  will  be  found  to  answer.  Before  making  the  hoop, 
however,  its  hinges  should  be  ready  for  it.  Two  screw  eyes, 
or  staples  of  bent  wire  should  be  driven  into  the  bottom  of  the 
box  between  the  two  walls,  one  in  the  exact  middle  of  each 
side.  The  iron  wire  should  now  be  bent  so  as  to  fit  round  and 
settle  into  the  space  between  the  boxes,  letting  each  end  rest 


82  TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 

over  the  screws  in  the  bottom.  It  will  be  found  that  there  will  be 
enough  surplus  wire  on  each  end  to  form  into  a  loop  with  the  pin- 
cers. These  loops  should  be  passed  through  the  screws  or  rings 
already  inserted,  and  then  pinched  together ;  the  hinge  v/ill  thus 
be  made,  and  will  appear  as  at  {c).  If  properly  done,  they  should 
allow  the  hoop  to  pass  freely  from  one  end  of  the  box  to  the  other, 
and  settle  easily  between  the  partitions.  If  this  hinge  should 
prove  too  complicated  for  our  young  readers,  they  may  resort 
to  another  method,  which,  although  not  so  durable,  will  answer 
very  well.  In  this  case  the  wire  will  only  need  to  reach  to  the 
exact  middle  of  the  long  sides.  No  surplus  being  necessary,  a 
length  of  twenty-six  inches  will  be  exactly  right.  On  each  end 
a  short  loop  of  tough  Indian  twine  should  be  tied.  By  now 
fastening  these  loops  to  the  bottom  of  the  box  with  tacks,  in 
the  place  of  screws,  it  will  form  a  hinge  v/hich  will  answer  the 
purpose  of  the  more  complicated  one. 


The  netting  should  consist  of  common  mosquito  gauze,  or,  if 
this  cannot  be  had,  any  thin  cloth  maybe  substituted.  It  should 
be  sewed  fast  to  the  iron  wire,  from  hinge  to  hinge,  and  then, 
with  the  hoops  resting  in  its  groove,  the  netting  should  be 
drawn  over  the  platform,  and  tacked  to  the  bottom  of  the 
groove,  on  its  remaining  half.  It  should  rest  loosely  over  the 
platform  to  allow  plenty  of  space  for  the  bird. 

But  one  more  addition,  and  the  trap  is  finished.  We  have 
mentioned  the  use  of  elastics  in  other  varieties  :  they  are  of 
equal  use  here,  and  should  be  attached  to  the  hoop  as  seen  at 
(a)  in  the  section  drawing,  the  remaining  ends  being  fastened  to 
the  bottom  of  the  groove,  as  there  indicated.  These  elastics 
should  be  placed  on  both  sides,  and  stretched  to  such  a  tension 
as  will  draw  the  hoop  quickly  from  one  side  to  the  other. 

It  will  now  be  easy  to  set  the  trap.  Draw  the  hoop  back  to 
the  opposite  end,  tucking  the  netting  into  the  groove ;  lower 
the  spindle  over  it,  resting  it  between  the  two  little  plugs,  and 
securing  its  end  beneath  the  catch  on  the  platform.    If  the  bait, 


A  SIMPLER  NET  TRAP. 


83 


consisting  of  bread-crumbs,  berries,  insects,  or  the  like,  be  now 
sprinkled  on  the  platform,  the  trap  is  ready  for  its  feathered 
victim.  It  will  easily  be  seen  that  the  slightest  weight  on  either 
side  of  this  poised  platform  will  throw  the  catch  from  the  end 
of  the  spindle,  and  release  the  hoop  and  the  platform  in  an  in- 
stant is  covered  by  the  net,  capturing  whatever  unlucky  little 
bird  may  have  chanced  to  jump  upon  it.  This  is  a  very  pretty 
little  trap,  and  will  well  repay  the  trouble  of  making  it. 

A  SIMPLER  NET  TRAP. 

Much  ingenuity  has  been  displayed  in  the  construction  of 
bird  traps  of  various  kinds,  but  often  the  ingenuity  has  been 
misplaced,  and  the  result  has  been  so  complicated  as  to  mar  its 
usefulness  for  practical  purposes.  The  examples  of  net  traps 
presented  in  this  volume  are  so  simple  that  the  merest  tyro  can 
readily  understand  them.  What  can  be  more  so  than  the  pres- 
ent example,  and  yet  it  is  as  sure  in  its  effect,  and  stcrer  than 
those  other  varieties  of  more  complicated  construction.  One 
necessary  element  in  a  trap  of  any  kind  is,  that  the  bearings  are 


slight  and  that  they  spring  easily.  To  obtain  this  requisite  it 
is  necessary  to  overcome  friction  as  much  as  possible,  using 
only  a  small  number  of  pieces,  and  having  as  few  joints  and 
hinges  only  as  are  absolutely  necessary.  The  present  variety 
possesses  advantages  on  this  account.  It  is  constructed  some- 
what on  the  principle  of  the  ordinary  steel  t^ap,  and  also  re- 
sembles in  other  respects  the  one  we  have  just  described,  al- 
though much  simpler.  We  give  only  a  section  drawing,  as  this 
will  be  sufficient.  The  long  side  of  a  flat  board  of  about  eight  by 
sixteen  inches  is  shown  at  {a) ;  {b)  indicates  the  loops  of  a  bent 
wire,  to  which  the  netting  is  attached,  as  in  the  trap  just  de- 


84  TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 

scribed,  the  loops  being  fastened  to  the  board  as  in  the  other 
variety ;  {g)  consists  of  a  small  bit  of  wood  an  inch  or  so  in 
length  and  half  an  inch  in  width.  It  should  be  tacked  on  to  the 
middle  of  the  one  end  of  the  board  and  project  about  a  half 
inch  above  the  surface.  To  the  top  of  this  the  spindle  [c) 
should  be  attached  by  a  leather  or  staple  hinge.  The 
spindle  should  be  of  light  pine,  five  inches  in  length  and  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  square,  bevelled ;  on  the  under  side  of  one 
end  {d)  is  the  catch  or  bait  piece,  and  should  be  whittled  out  of 
a  shingle  or  pine  stick  of  the  shape  shown,  the  width  being 
about  a  half  an  inch  or  less.  One  side  should  be  supphed  with 
a  slight  notch  for  the  reception  of  the  spindle,  and  the  other 
should  project  out  two  or  three  inches,  being  covered  on  the 
top  with  a  little  platform  of  pasteboard,  tin,  or  thin  wood  either 
glued  or  tacked  in  place.  To  attach  this  piece  to  the  main 
board,  two  small  wire  staples  may  be  used,  one  being  inserted 
into  the  bottom  end  of  the  piece  and  the  other  being  hooked 
through  it,  and  afterward  tacked  to  the  bottom  of  the  trap,  thus 
forming  a  loop  hinge.  Another  method  is  to  make  a  hole 
through  the  lower  tip  of  the  bait  piece  by  the  aid  of  a  red-hot 
wire,  as  seen  at  (^),  afterwards  inserting  a  pin  and  overlapping 
its  ends  with  two  staples  driven  into  the  bottom  board,  as  shown 
at  {e).  In  our  last  mentioned  net  trap  the  spring  power  con- 
sisted of  rubber  elastic,  and  the  same  may  be  used  in  this 
case,  if  desired,  but  by  way  of  variety  we  here  introduce  another 
form  of  spring  which  may  be  successfully  employed  in  the  con- 
struction of  traps  of  various  kinds.  It  is  shown  at  {o)  and  con- 
sists merely  of  a  piece  of  tempered  hoop  iron,  so  bent  as  to  act 
with  an  upward  pressure.  It  should  be  about  three  inches  long 
by  half  an  inch  wide.  About  three-quarters  of  an  inch  should 
be  allowed  for  the  two  screws  by  which  it  is  to  be  attached  to 
the  board.  The  rest  should  be  bent  upward  and  thus  tempered 
by  first  heating  almost  to  redness,  and  then  cooling  in  cold 
water. 

One  of  these  springs  should  be  fastened  to  the  board  on 
each  side,  directly  under  the  wire  and  quite  near  the  hinge,  in 
the  position  shown  in  the  main  drawing.  Now  draw  back  the 
net,  lower  the  spindle  and  catch  its  extremity  in  the  notch  of 
the  bait  piece,  and  the  trap  is  set  as  in  our  illustration.  Sprinkle 
the  bait  on  the  platform,  and  lay  the  machine  on  the  ground 
where  birds  are  known  to  frequent ;  and  it  is  only  a  matter  of  a 
few  hours  or  perhaps  minutes,  before  it  will  prove  its  efficacy. 
In  order  to  prevent  the  bird  from  raising  the  wire  and  there bv 


THE    UPRIGHT    NET   TRAP.  85 

escaping,  it  is  well  to  fasten  a  little  tin  catch  (/)  at  the  end  of  the 
board.     This  will  spring  over  the  wire  and  hold  it  in  its  place. 

THE  UPRIGHT  NET  TRAP. 

The  following  is  another  novelty  in  the  way  of  a  bird-trap, 
somewhat  similar  to  the  one  we  have  just  described,  in  its  man- 
ner of  working. 

Procure  two  pieces  of  board  about  a  foot  square.  Nail  one 
to  the  edge  of  the  other,  as  represented  in  our  engraving.  A 
stout  wire  is  the  next  requisite.  It  should  he  about  thirty  inches 
long,  and  bent  either  into  a  curve  or  into  two  corners,  making 
three  equal  sides.  Each  end  of  the  wire  should  then  be  bent 
into  a  very  small  loop  for  the  hinge.  On  to  this  wire  the  net- 
ting  should  then  be  secured  as  in  the  two  previous  examples, 
after  which  the  ends  of  the  wire  may  be  tied  with  string  or 
hinged  on  wire  staples  into  the  angle  of  the  two  boards,  as  seen 
in  our  illustration.  Allow  the  wire  now  to  lie  flat  on  the  bottom 
board,  and  then  proceed  to  tack  the  netting  around  the  edges  of 
the  upright  board.  Two  elastics  should  next  be  fastened  to  the 
wire  on  each  side,  securing  their  loose  ends  to  the  bottom  of  the 
trap.  They  should  be  tightly  drawn  so  as  to  bring  the  wire 
down  with  a  snap.  The  spindle  of  this  trap  should  be  about 
eight  or  nine  inches  long,  square  and  slender, — the  lower  end 
being  flattened,  and  the  upper  end  secured  to  the  top  edge  of  the 
upright  board  by  a  hinge  of  leather  or  string.  An  excellent 
hinge  may  be  made  with  a  piece  of  leather  an  inch  and  a  half 
long,  by  half  an  inch  in  width,  one  half  of  the  length  being  tied 
around  the  end  of  the  spindle,  and  the  other  tacked  on  to  the 
upper  edge  of  the  board. 

The  platform  is  given  by  itself  at  (a)  in  the  same  picture.  It 
may  be  made  of  very  thin  wood — cigar  box  wood,  for  instance, 
or  even  thick  pasteboard.  It  consists  of  three  pieces.  The 
piece  which  is  hinged  into  the  angle  of  the  boards  should  be 
about  three  inches  in  length  ;  the  platform  piece  ought  not  to  be 
more  than  four  inches  square,  and  the  upright  piece  only  long 
enough  to  reach  the  tip  of  the  spindle  when  the  platform  is 
raised,  as  shown  in  our  engraving.  The  hinge  piece  should  be 
cut  to  an  edge  on  that  end  where  the  leath'er  is  fastened,  the 
opposite  end  being  bevelled  off  in  order  that  the  platform  may 
rest  and  be  tacked  or  glued  firmly  upon  it.  The  diagram  (a) 
will  make  this  all  very  clear. 

When  the  platform  is  all  made  and  fastened  in  its  place,  the 


S6 


TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 


trap  may  be  set.  Draw  the  hoop  back  as  far  as  possible,  and 
lower  the  spindle  over  its  edge,  catching  it  behind  the  upright 
stick  on  the  platform.  If  the  trap  is  properly  constructed,  the 
pressure  of  the  spindle  on  the  platform  will  suffice  to  hold  it  up 
as  seen  in  our  illustration.  The  upright  stick  on  the  back  of  the 
platform  should  never  be  more  than  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the 
back  of  the  trap.  If  need  be,  a  slight  notch  may  be  made  in  the 
end  of  the  spindle  and  a  small  tack  driven  into  the  back  of  the 
upright  stick  to  correspond  to  it.  By  thus  fitting  the  notch  under 
the  head  of  the  tack,  it  will  be  sure  to  hold  the  platform  in  the 


right  position.  But  it  should  be  carefully  tested  before  setting, 
to  see  that  it  springs  easily. 

When  thus  set  sprinkle  the  bait  on  the  platform,  scattering  a 
little  also  on  the  bottom  of  the  trap  and  on  the  ground  directly 
around  it.  The  little  birds  will  soon  spy  the  tempting  morsels, 
and  alighting  on  the  trap  are  misled,  and  the  slightest  peck  or 
pressure  on  the  platform  where  the  bait  is  most  bounteously 
spread  brings  down  the  wire  and  net  with  a  snajf,  and  the  little 
creature  is  secured  without  harm. 

Our  next  illustration  shows  another  method  of  constructing 
the  platform.     It  should  be  about  three  or  four  inches  square. 


THE    UPRIGHT   NET   TRAP. 


87 


and  on  the  middle  of  one  of  its  edges  the  upright  catch  piece 
should  be  fastened.  This  piece,  as  will  be  seen  in  our  engrav- 
ing, should  be  cut  spreading  at  the  bottom  so  as  to  admit  of 
being  secured  to  the  platform  by  two  brads,  the  tip  being  cut 
to  a  point.  The  total  length  of  this  piece  should  not  be  over 
two  and  a  half  inches.     When  tacked  in  place,  a  third  brad 

should  be  inserted  between 
the  other  two  and  exactly  in 
the  centre  of  the  side  of  the 
platform.  This  latter  brad  is 
to  act  as  the  pivot,  or  hinge, 
and  should  project  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch,  as  seen  at 
{a).  On  the  opposite  edge  of 
the  platform  another  larger 
brad  should  be  driven,  having 
its  end  filed  to  a  blunt  point, 
as  in  {b).  If  the  filing  would 
be  too  tedious,  a  plug  of  hard 
wood  of  the  required  shape 
would  answer  every  purpose. 
The  upright  props  which  sup- 
port the  platform  should  be 
cut  of  thin  wood .  Let  one  be  an  inch  and  a  half  long  and  half 
an  inch  wide,  the  other  being  an  inch,  in  length.  Each  should 
have  one  end  whittled  to  a  point,  which  wn'll  admit  of  its  being 
inserted  in  a  gimlet  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  trap.  These 
gimlet  holes  should  be  made  at  least  half  an  inch  in  depth. 
Make  the  first  at  about  an  inch  or  so  from  the  back  of  the  trap. 
Into  this  insert  the  shorter  pieces,  broadside  front.  Lay  the 
pivot  brad  of  the  platform  on  the  top  of  this  piece  and  insert 
over  it  a  small  wire  staple,  as  seen  at  {a).  Elevate  the  platform 
evenly  and  determine  the  spot  for  the  other  gimlet  hole,  which 
should  be  directly  beneath  the  point  of  the  filed  brad.  Be  sure 
that  it  is  in  the  middle  of  the  board,  so  that  the  platform  may 
set  squarely,  and  be  perfectly  parallel  with  the  sides.  Insert  the 
remaining  prop  in  its  place,  and  the  platform  is  complete.  The 
overhanging  spindle  now  requires  a  little  attention.  This 
should  be  whittled  off  on  each  side,  bringing  it  to  a  point  at  the 
tip.  On  each  side  of  the  spindle  a  long  plug  should  then  be 
driven  into  the  back  piece,  as  our  illustration  shows.  These 
should  be  far  enough  apart  to  allow  the  spindle  to  pass  easily 
between  them.     The  setting  of  the  trap  is  plainly  shown  in  our 

7 


Method  2. 


88  TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 

engraving.  The  spindle  being  lowered  between  the  plugs  is 
caught  finely  on  the  tip  of  the  catch-piece.  The  blunt  point  at 
the  opposite  end  of  the  platform  should  have  a  slight  hollow 
made  for  it  in  the  prop  against  which  it  presses.  If  the  platform 
be  now  strewn  with  bait,  the  little  machine  is  ready.  It  is  cer- 
tainly very  simple  and  will  be  found  very  effective. 

THE  BOX   OWL  TRAP. 

The  use  of  a  box  trap  for  the  capture  of  an  owl  is  certainly 
an  odd  idea,  but  we  nevertheless  illustrate  a  contrivance  which 
has  been  successfully  used  for  that  purpose. 

The  box  in  this  case  should  be  of  the  proportions  shown  in 
our  engraving,  and  well  ventilated  with  holes,  as  indicated. 
(This  ventilation  is,  by-the-way,  a  good  feature  to  introduce  in 
all  traps.)  Having  made  or  selected  a  suitable  box — say,  four- 
teen or  more  inches  wide,  provided  with  a  cover,  working  on  a 
hinge~ — proceed  to  fasten  on  the  outside  of  the  lid  a  loop  of  stiff 
wire,  bent  in  the  shape  shown  at  {e\  This  may  be  fastened  to 
the  cover  by  means  of  small  staples,  or  even  tacks,  and  should 
project  over  the  edge  about  two  inches.  When  this  is  done,  the 
lid  should  be  raised  to  the  angle  shown  in  our  illustration,  and 
the  spot  where  the  end  of  the  wire  loop  touches  the  back  of  the 
box  should  be  marked  and  a  slit  cut  tlirough  the  wood  at  this 
]:)lace,  large  enough  for  the  angle  of  the  loop  to  pass  through. 
Two  elastics  should  now  be  fastened  to  the  inside  of  the  box, 
being  secured  to  the  bottom  at  the  side,  and  the  other  to  the 
edge  of  the  cover,  as  seen  in  the  illustration.  They  should  be 
sufficiently  strong  to  draw  down  the  cover  quickly.  The  perch, 
or  spindle,  should  consist  of  a  light  stick  of  wood,  as  shown  at 
(^,)  one  end  provided  with  a  slight  notch,  and  the  other  fastened 
to  the  inside  of  the  front  of  the  box  by  a  string  or  leather  hinge, 
(^,)  keeping  the  notch  on  the  7ipper  side  of  the  stick.  It  will  be 
now  seen  that  by  opening  the  cover,  until  the  loop  enters 
through  the  groove,  and  by  then  hooking  the  notch  in  the  spin- 
dle nnder  the  loop  as  seen  at  (^)  the  trap  will  be  set,  and  if  prop- 
erly done  it  will  be  found  that  avery  slight  weight  on  the  spindle 
will  set  it  free  from  the  loop  and  let  the  cover  down  with 
swiftness. 

To  secure  the  cover  in  place  a  small  tin  catch  should  now  be 
applied  to  the  front  edge  of  the  box,  as  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tion. A  piece  of  tin  two  inches  in  length  by  a  half  an  inch  in 
breadth  will  answer  for  this  purpose.     One  end  should  be  bent 


BIRD    AND    WILD    FOWL    TRAPS. 


89 


down  half  an  inch  at  a  pretty  sharp  angle,  and  the  other  at- 
tached by  two  tacks,  to  the  edge  of  the  box,  in  the  position 
shown  in  the  cut.  This  precaution  will  effectually  prevent  the 
escape  of  whatever  bird,  large  or  small,  the  trap  may  chance  to 
secure.  It  is  a  necessary  feature  of  the  trap,  as  without  it  the 
elastics  might  be  torn  asunder  and  the  lid  thereby  easily  raised. 
This  trap  may  be  baited  in  a  variety  of  ways.  As  it  is  par- 
ticularly designed  for  a  dirdtra.p,  it  is  well  to  sprinkle  the  bot- 
tom of  the  box  with  berries,  bird-seed,  small  insects,  such  as 


crickets,  grasshoppers,  etc.  These  latter  are  very  apt  to  jump 
out,  and  it  may  be  well  to  fasten  one  or  two  of  them  to  the  bot- 
tom with  a  pin  through  the  body,  just  behind  the  head. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  birds  which  live  almost  exclusively 
on  insects ;  and  as  this  bait  is  of  rather  a  lively  kind,  there  is 
scarcely  any  other  method  to  retain  them  in  their  position.  A 
bird  on  approaching  this  trap  will  almost  irresistibly  alight  on 
the  perch,  and  if  not  2X firsts  it  is  generally  sure  to  do  so  before 
long.^  If  desired,  a  pasteboard  platform  may  be  fastened  on  the 


go  TRAPS  FOR  FEATHERED  GAME. 

top  of  the  perch  with  small  tacks,  and  the  bait  scattered  upon 
it.  This  will  act  in  the  same  manner,  and  might,  perhaps,  be  a 
trifle  more  certain.  We  will  leave  it  to  our  readers  to  experi- 
ment upon. 

We  have  given  this  variety  the  name  of  "  owl-trap,"  because 
it  may  be  used  with  success  in  this  direction.  When  set  for 
this  purpose,  it  should  be  baited  with  a  live  mouse,  small  rat  or 
bird,  either  fastened  to  the  bottom  of  the  trap,  if  a  bird,  or  set 
in  with  the  trap  inclosing  it,  if  a  mouse.  A  small  bird  is  the 
preferable  bait,  as  it  may  be  easily  fastened  to  the  bottom  of  the 
box  by  a  string,  and  as  a  general  thing  is  more  sure  to  attract 
the  attention  of  the  owl  by  its  chirping. 

The  trap  should  be  set  in  an  open,  conspicuous  spot,  in  the 
neighborhood  where  the  owls  in  the  night  are  heard  to  "  hoot." 
The  chances  are  that  the  box  will  contain  an  owl  on  the  follow- 
ing morning. 

This  bird  is  a  very  interesting  and  beautiful  creature,  and  if 
our  young  reader  could  only  catch  one,  and  find  rats  and  mice 
enough  to  keep  it  well  fed,  he  would  not  only  greatly  diminish 
the  number  of  rats  in  his  neighborhood,  but  he  would  realize  a 
great  deal  of  enjoyment  in  watching  and  studying  the  habits  of 
the  bird. 

Should  it  be  difficult  to  supply  the  above  mentioned  food,  raw 
meat  will  answer  equally  well.  The  bird  should  either  be  kept 
in  a  cage  or  inclosure  and  in  the  latter  case,  its  wings  will  re- 
quire to  be  clipped. 

THE  BOX  BIRD  TRAP. 

Here  we  have  another  invention  somewhat  resembling  the 
foregoing.  Our  engraving  represents  the  arrangement  of  the 
parts  as  the  trap  appears  when  set. 

The  box  may  be  of  almost  any  shape.  A  large  sized  cigar 
box  has  been  used  with  excellent  success,  and  for  small  birds 
is  just  the  thing.  The  cover  of  the  box  in  any  case  should 
work  on  a  hinge  of  some  sort.  The  trap  is  easily  made.  The 
first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  cut  an  upright  slot,  about  two  inches 
in  length,  through  the  centre  of  the  backboard,  commencing  at 
the  upper  edge.  To  the  inside  centre  edge  of  the  cover  a  small 
square  strap,  about  four  inches  in  length,  should  then  be  se- 
cured. It  should  be  so  adjusted  as  that  one-half  shall  project  to- 
ward the  inside  of  the  box,  as  seen  in  the  illustration,  and  at  the 
same  time  pass  easily  through  the  slot  beneath  where  the  cover 


THE   PENDENT   BOX    TRAP. 


91 


is  closed.  The  lid  should  now  be  supplied  with  elastics  as  de- 
scribed in  the  foregoing.  Next  in  order  comes  the  bait  stick. 
Its  shape  is  clearly  shown  in  our  illustration,  and  it  may  be 
either  cut  in  one  piece  or  consist  of  two  parts  joined  together 


at  the  angle.  To  the  long  arm  the  bait  should  be  attached  and 
the  upright  portion  should  be  just  long  enough  to  suspend  the 
cover  in  a  position  on  a  line  with  the  top  of  the  box.  The  trap 
may  now  be  set,  as  seen  in  our  illustration,  and  should  be  sup- 
plied with  the  necessary  tin  catch,  described  in  the  foregoing. 


THE  PENDENT   BOX   TRAP. 

This  invention  is  original  with  the  author  of  this  work,  and 
when  properly  made  and  set  will  prove  an  excellent  device  for 
the  capture  of  small  birds. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  trap,  as  set,  is  clearly  shown 
in  our  illustration.  A  thin  wooden  box  is  the  first  requisite,  it 
should  be  about  a  foot  square  and  six  inches  in  depth,  and  sup- 
plied with  a  close  fitting  cover,  working  on  hinges.  The  sides 
should  then  be  perforated  with  a  few  auger  holes  for  purposes 
of  ventilation. 

Two  elastics  are  next  in  order,  and  they  should  be  attached 
to  the  cover  and  box,  one  on  each  side,  as  shown  at  (a.)  They 
should  be  drawn  to  a  strong  tension,  so  as  to  hold  the  cover 
firmly  against  the  box. 

The  mechanism  of  the  trap  centres  in  the  bait  stick,  which 
differs  in  construction  from  any  other  described  in  this  book. 

It  should  be  made  about  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil,  and  eleven 


92 


TRAPS    FOR    FEATHERED    GAME. 


inches  or  so  in  length,  depending  of  course  upon  the  size  of  the 
box. 

It  should  then  be  divided  in  two  pieces  by  a  perfectly  flat 
cut,  the  longer  part  being  six  inches  in  length;  This  piece 
should  be  attached  to  the  back  board  of  the  box  by  a  small 
string  and  a  tack,  as  shown  at  (c),  its  end  being  bluntly  pointed. 
Its  attachment  should  be  about  five  inches  above  the  bottom 
board,  and  in  the  exact  centre  of  the  width  of  the  back. 

Near  the  flat  end  of  the  other  piece  the  bait  consisting  of  a 
berry  or  other  fruit,  should  be  secured,  and  the  further 
extremity  of  the  stick  should  then  be  rounded  to  a  blunt  point. 
The  trap  is  now  easily  set.  Raise  the  lid  and  lift  the  long 
stick  to  the  position  given  in  the  illustration.  Adjust  the  flat 
end  of  the  bait  stick  ag-inst  that  of  the  former,  and  allow  the 


pressure  of  the  lid  to  bear  against  the  blunt  point  of  the  short 
stick  at  (d),  as  shown  in  the  illustration,  a  straight  dent  being 
made  in  the  cover  to  receive  it,  as  also  in  the  back  of  the  box 
for  the  other  piece.  If  properly  constructed,  this  pressure  will 
be  sufficient  to  hold  the  sticks  end  to  end,  ar^  our  engraving 


THE    HAWK   TRAP. 


93 


represents,  and  the  trap  is  thus  set.  The  slightest  weight  on 
the  false  perch  thus  made  will  throw  the  parts  asunder,  and  the 
cover  closes  with  a  snap. 

The  greatest  difficulties  in  constructing  the  trap  will  be 
founa  in  the  bearings  of  the  ]m\t  sticks  (d),  the  ends  of  which 
must  be  perfectly  flat  and  join  snugly,  in  order  to  hold  them- 
selves together.  The  box  may  now  be  suspended  in  a  tree  by 
the  aid  of  a  string  at  the  top.  The  first  bird  that  makes  bold 
enough  to-alight  on  the  perch  is  a  sure  captive,  and  is  secured 
without  harm.  If  desired,  the  elastic  may  be  attached  to  the 
inside  of  the  cover,  extending  to  the  back  of  the  box,  as  seen 
in  the  initial  at  the  head  of  this  chapter.  If  the  elastic  in 
any  event  shows  tendencies  toward  relaxing,  the  tin  catch  de- 
scribed on  page  SS  should  be  adjusted  to  the  lower  edge  of 
the  box  to  insure  capture. 

THE   HAWK  TRAP. 


Our  illustration  represents   a  hawk  in  a  sad  plight.     The 
memory  of  a  recent  feast  has  attracted  it  to  the  scene  of  many  of 


94 


TRAPS    FOR    FEATHERED    GAME. 


its  depredations :  but  the  ingenious  farmer  has  at  last  outwitted 
his  feathered  foe  and  brought  its  sanguinary  exploits  to  a 
timely  end.  This  trap  is  a  "Yankee  "  invention  and  has  been 
used  with  great  success  in  many  instances  where  the  hawk  has 
become  a  scourge  to  the  poultry  yard.  The  contrivance  is 
clearly  shown  in  an  illustration,  consisting  merely  of  a  piece  of 
plank  two  feet  square,  set  with  stiff  perpendicular  pointed 
wires. 

This  affair  was  set  on  the  ground  in  a  conspicuous  place,  the 
board  covered  with  grass,  and  the  nice  fat  Poland  hen  which 
was  tied  to  the  centre  proved  a  morsel  too  tempting  for  the 
hawk  to  resist.  Hence  the  "  fell  swoop  "  and  the  fatal  conse- 
quences depicted  in  our  illustration.  The  owl  has  also  been 
successfully  captured  by  the  same  device. 

THE  WILD    DUCK  NET. 

Following  will  be  found  two  examples  of  traps  in  very  com- 
mon use  for  the  capture  of  wild  ducks,  and  in  the  region  of 
Chesapeake  bay,  immense  numbers  of  the  game  are  annually 
taken  by  their  aid.  The  first  is  the  well  known  net  trap,  so 
extensively  used  in  nearly  all  countries,  both  for  the  capture  of 


various  kinds  of  fish  as  well  as  winged  game.  Our  illustration 
gives  a  very  clear  idea  of  the  construction  of  the  net,  and  an 
elaborate  description  is  almost  superfluous.  It  consists  of  a 
graduated  series  of  hoops  covered  by  a  net  work.  From  each 
a  converging  net  extends  backward  ending  in  a  smaller  hoop 
which  is  held  in  position  by  cords  extending  therefrom  to  the 


THE   HOOK  TRAP. 


95 


next  larger  hoop.  The  depth  of  these  converging  nets  should 
extend  backward  about  three  or  four  feet  from  the  large  hoop, 
and  the  distance  between  these  latter  should  be  about  five  feet. 
The  length  of  the  net  should  be  about  twenty  feet,  terminating 
in  a  "  pound  "  or  netted  enclosure,  as  seen  in  the  illustration. 
The  trap  maybe  set  on  shore  or  in  the  water  as  seen.  "  Decoy  " 
birds  are  generally  used,  being  enclosed  in  the  pound. 

When  set  on  land  the  bait  consisting  of  corn  or  other  grain 
should  be  spread  about  the  entrance  and  through  the  length  of 
the  net. 

It  is  remarkable  that  a  duck  which  so  easily  finds  its  way 
within  the  netted  enclosure,  should  be  powerless  to  make  its 
escape,  but  such  seems  to  be  the  fact,  and  even  a  single  hoop 
with  its  reflex  net,  has  been  known  to  secure  a  number  of  the 
game. 

THE  HOOK  TRAP 


Our  second  example  is  one  which  we  are  almos*.  ccmpted  to 
exclude  on  account  of  its  cruelty,  but  as  our  volume  is  especi- 
ally devoted  to  traps  of  all  kinds  and  as  this  is  a  variety  in  very 
common  use,  we  feel  bound  to  give  it  a  passing  notice.  Our 
illustration  fully  conveys  its  painful  mode  of  capture,  and  a 
beach  at  low  water  is  generally  the  scene  of  the  slaughter. 
A  long  stout  cord  is  first  stretched  across  the  sand  and  secured 


96 


TRAPS    FOR    FEATHERED   GAME. 


to  a  peg  at  each  end.  To  tliis  shorter  lines  are  attached  at 
intervals,  each  one  being  supplied  with  a  fish  hook  baited  with  a 
piece  of  the  tender  rootstock  of  a  certain  water  reed,  of  which 
the  ducks  are  very  fond.  The  main  cord  and  lines  are  then 
imbedded  in  the  sand,  the  various  baits  only  appearing  on  the 
surface,  and  the  success  of  the  device  is  equal  to  its  cruelty. 

THE   "fool's   cap"   TRAP. 

Of  all  oddities  of  the  trap  kind,  there  is,  perhaps,  no  one  more 
novel  and  comical  than  the "  Fools's  Cap "  crow-trap,  which 
forms    the  subject  of  our  present  illustration.     Crows  are  by 

no  means  casyofcai> 
ture  in  any  form  of 
trap,  and  they  are 
generally  as  coy  and 
as  shrcv.'d  in  their  ap- 
proach to  a  trap  as 
they  are  bold  in  their 
familiarity  and  disre- 
spect for  the  sombre 
scarecrows  in  the 
corn  field.  But  this 
simple  device  will  of- 
ten mislead  the  smart- 
est and  shrewdest 
crow,  and  make  a  per- 
fect fool  of  him,  for 
it  is  hard  to  imagine 
a  more  ridiculous 
sight  than  is  fur- 
nished by  the  strange 
antics  and  evolutions 
_^      _^  of  a  crov/thus  cmbar- 

— -'^1    ^'^ -f^"^'"     ~  rassedwith  his  head 

'''^'^-'  imbedded   in    a    cap 

which  he  finds  impos- 
sible to  remove,  and  which  he  in  vain  endeavors  to  shake  off  by 
all  sorts  of  gymnastic  performance.  The  secret  of  the  little 
contrivance  is  easily  told.  The  cap  consists  of  a  little  cone  of 
stiff  paper,  about  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter  at  the  opening. 
This  is  imbedded  in  the  ground,  up  to  its  edge,  and  a  few 
j^rains  of  corn  are   dropped  into  it.      The  inside  edre  of   the 


BIRD   LIME.  97 

.openinf^  is  then  smeared  with  <^/>rt?-///;/^,  a  substance  of  which 
we  shall  speak  hereafter. 

The  crow,  on  endeavoring  to  reach  the  corn,  sinks  his  bill  so 
deep  in  tlie  cone  as  to  bring  the  gummy  substance  in  contact  with 
the  feathers  of  his  head  and  neck,  to  which  it  adheres  in  spite 
of  all  possible  efforts  on  the  part  of  the  bird  to  throw  it  off. 

The  cones  may  be  made  of  a  brownish-colored  paper  if  they 
are  to  be  placed  in  the  earth,  but  of  white  paper  when  inserted 
in  the  snow.  It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  insert  a  few  of  these 
cones  in  the  fresh  corn  hills  at  planting  season,  as  the  crows 
are  always  on  the  watch  at  this  time,  and  will  be  sure  to  partake 
of  the  tempting  morsels,  not  dreaming  of  the  result.  The 
writer  has  often  heard  of  this  ingenious  device,  and  has  read  of 
its  being  successfully  employed  in  many  instances,  but  he  has 
never  yet  had  an  opportunity  of  testing  it  himself.  He  will 
leave  it  for  his  readers  to  experiment  upon  for  themselves. 

BIRD  LIME. 

This  substance  so  called  to  which  we  have  above  alluded,  and 
which  is  sold  in  our  bird  marts  under  that  name,  is  a  viscid, 
sticky  preparation,  closely  resembling  a  very  thick  and  gummy 
varnish.     It  is  astonishingly  "  sticky,"  and  the  slightest  quantity 


between  the  fingers  will  hold  them  together  with  remarkable 
tenacity.  What  its  effect  must  be  on  the  feathers  of  a  bird  can 
easily  be  imagined. 

.  This  preparation  is  put  up  in  boxes  of  different  sizes,  and  may 
be  had  from  any  of  the  taxidermiiits  or  bird-fanciers  in  any  of 


qS  traps  for  feathered  game. 

our  large  towns  or  cities.  Should  a  home  made  article  be 
required,  an  excellent  substitute  may  be  prepared  from  the 
inner  bark  of  the  "slippery  elm."  This  should  be  gathered  in 
the  spring  or  early  summer,  cut  into  very  small  pieces  or 
scraped  into  threads,  and  boiled  in  water  sufficient  to  cover 
them  until  the  pieces  are  soft  and  easily  mashed.  By  this  time 
the  water  will  be  pretty  much  boiled  down,  and  the  whole  mass 
should  then  be  poured  into  a  mortar  and  beaten  up,  adding  at 
the  same  time  a  few  grains  of  wheat.  When  done,  the  paste 
thus  made  may  be  put  into  an  earthen  vessel  and  kept.  When 
required  to  be  used,  it  should  be  melted  or  softened  over  the 
fire,  adding  goose  grease  or  linseed  oil,  instead  of  water.  When 
of  the  proper  consistency  it  may  be  spread  upon  sticks  or  twigs 
prepared  for  it,  and  which  should  afterwards  be  placed  in  the 
locality  selected  for  the  capture  of  the  birds. 

An  excellent  bird-lime  may  be  made  also  from  plain  linseed- 
oil,  by  boiling  it  down  until  it  becomes  thick  and  gummy.  Thick 
varnish  either  plain  or  mixed  with  oil,  but  always  free  from 
alcohol,  also  answers  the  purpose  very  well.  The  limed  twigs 
may  be  either  set  in  trees  or  placed  on  poles  and  stuck  in  the 
ground. 

If  any  of  our  readers  chance  to  become  possessed  of  an  owl, 
they  may  look  forward  to  grand  success  with  their  limed  twigs. 
It  is  a  well  known  fact  in  natural  history  that  the  owl  is  the 
universal  enemy  of  nearly  all  our  smaller  birds.  And  when, 
as  often  happens,  a  swarm  of  various  birds  are  seen  flying 
frantically  from  limb  to  limb,  seeming  to  centre  on  a  particular 
tree,  and  filling  the  air  with  their  loud  chirping,  it  may  be  safely 
concluded  that  some  sleepy  owl  has  been  surprised  in  his  day- 
dozing,  and  is  being  severely  pecked  and  punished  for  his  nightly 
depredations. 

Profiting  from  this  fact,  the  bird  catcher  often  utilizes  the  owl 
with  great  success.  Fastening  the  bird  in  the  crotch  of  some 
tree,  he  adjusts  the  limed  twigs  on  all  sides,  even  covering  the 
neighboring  branches  with  the  gummy  substance.  No  sooner  is 
the  owl  spied  by  one  bird  than  the  cry  is  set  up,  and  a  score  of 
foes  are  soon  at  hand,  ready  for  battle.  One  by  one  they  alight 
on  the  beguiling  twigs,  and  one  by  one  find  themselves  held  fast. 
The  more  they  flutter  the  more  powerless  they  become,  and  the 
more  securely  are  they  held.  In  this  way  many  valuable  and 
rare  birds  are  often  captured. 


THE    HUMMING   BIRD   TRAP.  99 

THE   HUMMING  BIRD  TRAP. 

One  of  the  most  ingenious  uses  to  which  bird  lime  is  said  to 
have  been  appHed  with  success,  is  in  the  capture  of  humming- 
birds. The  lime  in  this  instance  is  made  simply  by  chewing  a 
few  grains  of  wheat  in  the  mouth  until  a  gum  is  formed.  It  is 
said  that  by  spreading  this  on  the  inside  opening  of  the  long 
white  lily  or  trumpet-creeper  blossom,  the  capture  of  a  hum- 
ming-bird is  almost  certain,  and  he  will  never  be  able  to  leave 
the  flower  after  once  fairly  having  entered  the  opening.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  but  that  this  is  perfectly  practicable,  and  we 
recommend  it  to  our  readers. 

The  object  in  making  the  bird-lime  from  wheat  consists  in 
the  fact  that  this  is  more  easily  removed  from  the  feathers  than 
the  other  kinds. 

We  would  not  wish  our  readers  to  infer  from  this  that  a  hum- 
ming-bird might  be  captured  or  kept  alive,  for  of  all  birds, 
they  are  the  most  fragile  and  delicate,  and  would  die  of  fright^ 
if  from  nothing  else.  They  are  chiefly  used  for  ornamental 
purposes,  and  may  be  caught  in  a  variety  of  ways.  A  few  silk 
nooses  hung  about  the  flowers  where  the  birds  are  seen  to 
frequent,  will  sometimes  succeed  in  ensnaring  their  tiny  forms. 

The  blow-gun  is  often  used  with  good  success,  and  the  con- 
cussion from  a  gun  loaded  simply  with  powder,  and  aimed  in 
the  direction  of  the  bird,  will  often  stun  it  so  that  it  will  fall  to 
the  ground.  If  a  strong  stream  of  water  be  forced  upon  the 
little  creature,  as  it  is  fluttering  from  flower  to  flower,  the  result 
is  the  same,  as  the  feathers  become  so  wet  that  it  cannot  fly. 


BOOK    IV. 

MISCELLANEOUS  TRAPS. 

THE  COMMON   BOX  TRAP. 


HE  following  chapter  includes  a  variety 
of  traps  which  have  not  been  covered 
by  any  of  the  previous  titles.  Several 
novelties  are  contained  in  the  list,  and 
also  a  number  of  well  known  inventions. 
There  is  probably  no  more  familiar 
example  of  the  trap  kind  than  that  of 
the  common  wooden  box-trap,  better 
known,  perhaps,  by  our  country  boys 
as  the  rabbit-trap.  A  glance  at  our  il- 
lustration, will  readily  bring  it  to  mind,  and  easily  explain  its 
working  to  those  not  particularly  acquainted  with  it.  These  traps 
maybe  made  of  any  size,  but,  being  usually  employed  in  catching 
rabbits,  require  to  be  made  quite  large.  They  should  be  made 
of  hard  seasoned  wood — oak  or  chestnut  is  the  best — and  of 
slabs  about  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  pieces  may  be  of  the 
following  dimensions  :  let  the  bottom  board  be  204-7  in- ;  side 
board,  2oH-9in. ;  lid  board  19-I-7  in.,  and  the  end  piece  of  lid 
7  in.  square. 

The  tall  end  piece  should  be  about  16  inches  high  by  7  broad. 
Let  this  be  sharpened  on  the  upper  end,  as  seen  in  the  engraving, 
and  furnished  with  a  slight  groove  on  the  summit,  for  the  reception 
of  the  cord.     Now  to  put  the  pieces  together. 

Nail  the  two  sides  to  the  edge  of  the  bottom  board,  and  fit  in 
between  them  the  high  end  piece,  securing  that  also,  with  nails 
through  the  bottom  and  side  boards.  Next  nail  the  lid  board 
on  to  the  small,  square  end  piece,  and  fit  the  lid  thus  made 
neatly  into  its  place. 

To  make  the  hinge  for  the  lid,  two  small  holes  should  be  bored 
through  the  sides  of  the  trap,  about  four  inches  from  the  tall 
end,  and  half  an  inch  from  the  upper  edge  of  each  board.     Let 
8 


I04 


MISCELLANEOUS    TRAPS. 


small  nails  now  be  driven  through  these  holes  into  the  edge  of 
the  lid,  and  it  will  be  found  to  work  freely  upon  them. 

The  principal  part  of  the  trap  is  now  made,  but  what  remains 
to  be  done  is  of  great  importance.  The  ^'  spindle "  is  a  ne- 
cessary feature  in  nearly  all  traps,  and  the  box-trap  is  useless 
without  it.  In  this  case  it  should  consist  merely  of  a  round 
stick  of  about  the  thickness  of  a  lead  pencil,  and  we  will  say,  7 
or  8  in.  in  length.  One  end  should  be  pointed  and  the  other 
should  have  a  small  notch  cut  in  it,  as  seen  in  the  separate 
drawing  of    the  stick.      The  spindle   being    ready,    we  must 


^^^^m' 


have  some  place  to  put  it.  Another  hole  should  be  bored 
through  the  middle  of  the  high  end  piece,  and  about  4  in. 
from  the  bottom.  This  hole  should  be  large  enough  to  allow 
the  spindle  to  pass  easily  through  it.  If  our  directions  have 
been  carefully  followed,  the  result  will  now  show  a  complete, 
closefitting  trap. 

In  setting  the  trap  there  are  two  methods  commonly  em- 
ployed, as  shown  at  a  and  d.  The  string,  in  either  case,  must  be 
fastened  to  the  end  of  the  lid. 

In  the  first  instance  (a)  the  lid  is  raised  and  made  fast  by  the 
brace,  holding  itself  beneath  the  tip  of  the  projecting  spindle, 
and  a  nail  or  plug  driven  into  the  wood  by  the  side  of  the  hole. 


COMMON    BOX   TRAP.  105 

Of  course,  when  the  spindle  is  drawn  or  moved  from  the  inside 
the  brace  will  be  let  loose  and  the  lid  will  drop. 

In  the  other  method  {b)  the  spindle  is  longer,  and  projects 
several  inches  on  the  outside  of  the  hole.  The  brace  is  also 
longer,  and  catches  itself  in  the  notch  on  the  end  of  the  spindle, 
and  another  shght  notch  in  the  board,  a  few  inches  above  the 
hole. 

When  the  bait  is  touched  from  the  inside,  the  brace  easily 
flies  out  and  the  hd  falls,  securing  its  victim.  Either  way  is 
sure  to  succeed,  but  if  there  is  any  preference  it  is  for  the 
former  {a).  It  is  a  wise  plan  to  have  a  few  holes  through  the 
trap  in  different  places,  to  allow  for  ventilation,  and  it  may  be 
found  necessary  to  line  the  cracks  with  tin,  as  sometimes  the 


v^:i>-^mv^^jg^ 


enclosed  creature  might  otherwise  gnaw  through  and  make 
its  escape.  If  there  is  danger  of  the  lid  not  closing  tightly 
when  sprung,  a  stone  may  be  fastened  upon  it  to  insure  that 
result. 

This  trap  is  usually  set  for  rabbits,  and  these  dimensions  are 
especially  calculated  with  that  idea.  Rabbits  abound  in  all  our 
woods  and  thickets,  and  may  be  attracted  by  various  baits.  An 
apple  is  most  generally  used.  The  box-trap  may  be  made  of 
smaller  dimensions,  and  set  in  trees  for  squirrels  with  very  good 
success. 

There  is  still  another  well  known  form  of  this  trap  represented 
in  the  tail  piece  at  the  end  of  this  section.  The  box  is  first 
constructed  of  the  shape  already  given,  only  having  the  lid  piece 


io6 


MISCELLANEOUS    TRAPS. 


nailed  firmly  in  the  top  of  the  box.  The  tall  end  piece  is  also 
done  away  with.  The  whole  thing  thus  representing  a  simple 
oblong  box  with  one  end  open.  Two  slender  cleats  should  be 
nailed  on  each  side  of  this  opening,  on  the  interior  of  the  box, 
to  form  a  groove  into  which  a  square  end  board  may  easily  slide 
up  and  down,  the  top  board  being  slightly  sawn  away  to  receive 
it.  An  upright  stick  should  then  be  erected  on  the  top  centre 
of  the  box,  in  the  tip  of  which  a  straight  stick  should  be  pivoted, 
working  easily  therein,  like  the  arms  of  a  balance.  To  one  end 
of  this  balance,  the  end  board  should  be  adjusted  by  two  screw 
eyes,  and  to  the  other  the  string  with  spindle  attached.  By  now 
lowering  the  spindle  to  its  place,  the  further  end  of  the  balance 
will  be  raised  and  with  it  the  end  board,  and  on  the  release  of 
the  spindle  the  board  will  fall.  This  plan  is  quite  commonly 
adopted  but  we  rather  prefer  the  former.  But  as  each  has  its 
advantages  we  present  them  both. 


ANOTHER  BOX   TRAP. 


This  works  afterthe  manner  of  the  ordinary  wire  rat-trap  ;  our 
illustration  explains  itself. 

The  box  should  be  of  the  shape  there  shown,  with  one  of  its 
end  pieces  arranged  on  hinges   so   as  to  fall  freely.     An  elastic 


should  be  fastened  from  the  inside  of  this  end  to  the  inner 
surface  of  the  top  of  the  box,  to  insure  its  closing.  If  desired, 
an  elastic  may  be  adjusted  at  the  side  as  shown  in  the  cut  and  a 
catch  piece  of  stout  tin  should  be  attached  to  the  bottom  of 
the  trap  to  secure  the  lid  when  it  falls.  A  small  hole  should 
then  be  bored  in  the  top,  near  the  further  end  of  the  trap,  and 


FIGURE    FOUR   TRAP. 


107 


the  spindle,  having  a  notch  on  its  upper  end,  passed  through  the 
hole  thus  made.  The  top  of  the  spindle  is  shown  at  {a).  It 
should  be  held  in  its  place  by  a  small  plug  or  pin  through  it, 
below  the  surface  of  the  box.  A  slender  stick,  long  enough  to 
reach  and  catch  beneath  the  notch  in  the  spindle  should  now  be 
fastened  to  the  lid  and  the  trap  is  complete.  It  may  be  baited  with 
cheese,  bread,  and  the  hke,  and  if  set  for  squirrels,  an  apple 
answers  every  purpose. 

When  constructed  on  a  larger  and  heavier  scale  it  may  be  used 
for  the  capture  of  rabbits  and  animals  of  a  similar  size,  but  for 
this  purpose  the  previous  variety  is  preferable 

THE   FIGURE   FOUR    TRAP. 

One  of  the  most  useful  as  well  as  the  most  ancient  mventions 
in  the  way  of  traps  is  the  common  Figure  Four  Trap^  which 
forms  the  subject  of  our  next  illustration.  It  is  a  very  ingenious 
tontrivance,  and  the  mechanism,  consists  merely  of  three  sticks. 
It  possesses  great  advantages  in  the  fact  that  it  maybe  used  in  a 


variety  of  ways,  and  a  number  of  the  machines  may  be  carried 
by  the  young  trapper  with  very  little  inconvenience.  Our  illus- 
tration shows  the  trap  already  set,  only  awaiting  for  a  slight 
touch  at  the  bait  to  bring  the  heavy  stone  to  the  ground.  A  box 
may  be  substituted  for  the  stone,  and  the  animal  may  thus  be 


I08  MISCELLANEOUS   TRAPS. 

captured  alive.  The  three  sticks  are  represented  separate  at 
a.  b.  and  c.  Of  course,  there  is  no  regular  size  for  them,  as  this 
would  greatly  depend  upon  the  purpose  for  which  they  are 
designed  to  be  used.  If  for  rabbits,  the  following  proportions 
will  answer  very  well.  The  sticks  should  all  be  square,  and 
about  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  bait-stick,  {a)  should  be 
about  nine  or  ten  inches  in  length,  one  end  being  pointed  and 
the  other  furnished  with  a  notch,  as  indicated.  The  upright 
stick,  {b)  should  be  a  little  shorter,  one  end  being  whittled  to  a 
rather  sharp  edge.  At  about  three  or  four  inches  from  the 
other  end,  and  on  the  side  next  to  that  whittled,  a  square  notch 
should  be  cut.  This  should  be  about  a  third  of  an  inch  in  depth 
and  half  an  inch  in  width,  being  so  cut  as  exactly  to  receive  the 
bait-stick  without  holding  it  fast.  The  remaining  stick  {c)  should 
have  a  length  of  about  seven  or  eight  inches,  one  end  being 
whittled,  as  in  the  last,  to  an  edge,  and  the  other  end  furnished 
with  a  notch  on  the  same  side  of  the  stick. 


^^ 


TL 


«^ 


^ 


When  these  are  finished,  the  trap  may  be  set  in  the  followmg 
manner :  Place  the  upright  stick,  {b)  with  its  pointed  end  upper- 
most. Rest  the  notch  of  the  slanting  stick,  {c)  on  the  summit  of 
the  upright  stick,  placing  the  stone  upon  its  end,  and  holding 
the  stick  in  position  with  the  hand.  By  now  hooking  the  notch 
in  the  bait-stick  on  the  sharpened  edge  of  the  slanting  stick  and 
fitting  it  into  the  square  notch  in  the  upright,  it  may  easily  be 
made  to  catch  and  hold  itself  in  position.  The  bait  should 
always  project  beneath  the  stone.  In  case  a  box  is  used  instead 
of  a  stone,  the  trap  may  be  set  either  inside  of  it  or  beneath  its 
edge.  Where  the  ground  is  very  soft,  it  would  be  well  to  rest  the 
upright  stick  on  a  chip  or  small  fiat  stone,  as  otherwise  it  is  apt 
to  sink  into  the  earth  by  degrees  and  spring  by  itself. 

When  properly  made,  it  is  a  very  sure  and  sensitive  trap,  and 
the  bait,  generally  an  apple,  or  "  nub  "  of  corn  is  seldom  more 
than  touched  when  the  stone  falls. 


THE  ''DOUBLE  ENDER. 


109 


THE  "DOUBLE  ENDER." 

This  is  what  we  used  to  call  it  in  New  England  and  it  was  a 
great  favorite  among  the  boys  who  were  fond  of  rabbit  catching. 
It  was  constructed  of  four  boards  two  feet  in  length  by  nine 
inches  in  breath  secured  with  nails  at  their  edges,  so  as  to  form 
a  long  square  box.  Each  end  was  supphed  with  a  heavy  lid 
working  on  two  hinges.  To  each  of  these  lids  a  light  strip  of 
wood  was  fastened,  the  length  of  each  being  sufficient  to  reach 
nearly  to  the  middle  of  the  top  of  the  box,  as  seen  in  the  illus- 
tration. At  this  point  a  small  auger  hole  was  then  made  downward 
through  the  board.  A  couple  of  inches  of  string  was  next  tied 
to  the  tip  of  each  stick  and  supplied  with  a  large  knot  at  the  end. 
The  trap  was  then  set  on  the  simple  principle  of  which  there 
arc  so  many  examples  throughout  the  pages  of  this  work.     The 


.YNfy-"'- 


knots  were  lowered  through  the  auger  hole  and  the  insertion  of 
the  bait  stick  inside  the  box  held  them  in  place.  The  edge  of 
the  bottom  board  on  each  end  of  the  trap  should  be  supplied 
with  a  tin  catch  such  as  is  described  on  page  88  in  order 
to  hold  the  lid  in  place  after  it  has  fallen.  No  matter  from  which 
end  the  bait  is  approached  it  is  no  sooner  touched  than  both  ends 
fall  and  "  buiuiy^  "  is  prisoner.  Like  many  other  of  our  four-footed 
game,  the  rabbit  manifests  a  peculiar  liking  for  salt  and  may  be 
regularly  attracted  to  a  given  spot  by  its  aid.  A  salted  cotton 
string  is  sometimes  extended  several  yards  from  the  trap  for  the 
purpose  of  leading  them  to  it,  but  this  seems  a  needless  precaution, 
as  the  rabbit  is  seldom  behindhand  in  discerning  a  tempting  bait 
when  it  is  within  his  reach. 


no  MISCELLANEOUS   TRAPS. 

THE   SELF   SETTING   TRAP. 

One  of  the  oldest  known  principles  ever  embodied  in  the  form 
of  a  trap  is  that  which  forms  the  subject  of  the  accompanying 
illustration.  It  is  very  simple  in  construction,  sure  in  its  action  ; 
and  as  its  name  implies,  resets  itself  after  each  intruder  has  been 
captured. 


It  is  well  adapted  for  Rabbits  and  Coons  and  when  made  on  a 
small  scale,  maybe  successfully  employed  in  taking  rats  and  mice. 
It  is  also  extensively  used  in  the  capture  of  the  Mink  and 
Muskrat,  being  set  beneath  the  water,  near  the  haunts  of  the 
animals  and  weighted  by  a  large  stone.  Of  course  the  size  of 
the  box  will  be  governed  by  the  dimensions  of  the  game  for 
which  it  is  to  be  set.  Its  general  proportions  should  resemble 
those  of  the  illustration,  both  ends  being  open.  A  small  gate, 
consisting  of  a  square  piece  of  wood  supplied  with  a  few  stiff 
wires  is  then  pivoted  inside  each  opening,  so  as  to  work  freely 
and  fall  easily  when  raised.  The  bait  is  fastened  inside  at  the 
centre  of  the  box.  The  animal,  in  quest  of  the  bait,  finds  an  easy 
entrance,  as  the  wires  lift  at  a  slight  pressure,  but  the  exit  after 
the  gate  has  closed  is  so  difficult  that  escape  is  almost  beyond 
the  question. 

The  wires  should  be  so  stiff  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of 
them  being  bent  by  struggles    of  the  imprisoned  creature  in  his 


THE    DEAD-FALL.  Ill 

efforts  to  escape,  and  to  insure  further  strength  it  is  advisable  to 
connect  the  lower  ends  of  the  wires  by  a  cross  piece  of  finer  wire, 
twisted  about  each. 

The  simultaneous  capture  of  two  rabbits  in  a  trap  of  this  kind 
is  a  common  occurrence. 

THE  DEAD-FALL. 

In  strolling  through  the  woods  and  on  the  banks  of 
streams  in  the  country,  it  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to  stum- 
ble against  a  contrivance  resembling  in  general  appearance 
our  next  illustration.  Throughout  New  England,  the  "  dead- 
fall," as  this  is  called,  has  always  been  a  most  popular  favorite 
among  trappers,  young  and  old ;  and  there  is  really  no  better 
rour^h  r.nd  ready  trap  for  large  game.  To  entrap  a  fox  by 
any  device  is  no  easy  matter ;  but  the  writer  remembers  one 


case  where  Reynard  was  outwitted,  and  the  heavy  log  of  the 
"  dead-fall  "  put  a  speedy  end  to  his  existence.  The  trap  was 
set  in  a  locality  where  the  fox  had  made  himself  a  nuisance  by 
repeated  nocturnal  invasions  among  the  poultry,  and  the  bait 
was  cleverly  calculated  to  decoy  him.  A  live  duck  was  tied 
within  the  pen,  and  the  morsel  proved  too  tempting  for  him  to 
resist.  Thrusting  his  head  beneath  the  suspended  log,  in  order 
to  reach  his  prey,  he  thus  threw  down  the  slender  framework 
of  support ;  and  the  log,  falling  across  his  neck,  put  him  to  death. 
Our  illustration  gives  a  very  correct  idea  of  the  general 
construction  of  the  "  dead-fall,"  although  differing  slightly  in 
its  mode  of  setting  from  that  usually  employed. 


112  MISCELLANEOUS   TRAPS. 

A  pen  of  rough  sticks  13  first  constructed,  having  an  open 
front.  A  log  about  seven  or  eight  feet  in  length,  and  five 
or  six  inches  in  diameter,  should  then  be  procured.  An  ordin- 
ary fence  rail  will  answer  the  purpose  very  well,  although  the 
log  is  preferable.  Its  large  end  should  be  laid  across  the 
front  of  the  pen,  and  two  stout  sticks  driven  into  the  ground 
outside  of  it,  leaving  room  for  it  to  rise  and  tall  easily  be- 
tween them  and  the  pen.  a  second  shorter  log  being 
placed  on  the  ground  beneath  it,  as  described  for  the  bear- 
trap,  page  (17).  A  look  at  our  illustration  fully  explains  the  set- 
ting of  the  parts.  A  forked  twig,  about  a  foot  in  length,  an- 
swers for  the  bait-stick.  The  lower  end  should  be  pointed, 
and  the  fork,  with  its  bait,  should  incline  toward  the  ground, 
when  set.  The  upper  end  should  be  supplied  with  a  notch, 
square  side  down,  and  directly  above  the  branch  which 
holds  the  bait.  Another  straight  stick,  about  fourteen 
inches  in  length,  should  then  be  cut.  Make  it  quite  flat  on 
each  end.  A  small  thin  stone,  chip  of  wood,  or  the  like,  is 
the  only  remaining  article  required.  Now  proceed  to  raise 
the  log,  as  shown  in  the  drawing,  place  one  end  of  the 
straight  stick  beneath  it,  resting  its  tip  on  the  flat  top  of  the 
upright  stick  on  the  outside  of  the  log.  The  baitstick 
should  now  be  placed  in  position  inside  the  inclosure,  resting 
the  pointed  end  on  the  chip,  and  securing  the  notch  above,  as 
seen  in  the  illustration,  beneath  the  tip  of  the  flat  stick.  When 
this  is  done,  the  trap  is  set,  but,  there  are  a  few  little  hints 
in  regard  to  setting  it  finely, — that  is,  surely,  —  which  will 
be  necessary.  It  is  very  important  to  avoid  bringing  too 
much  of  the  weight  of  the  log  on  the  flat  stick,  as  this 
would  of  course  bear  heavily  on  the  bait-stick,  and  render 
considerable  force  necessary  to  spring  the  trap.  The  lever- 
age at  the  point  where  the  log  rests  on  the  flat  stick  should 
be  very  slight,  and  the  log  should  be  so  placed  that  the  up- 
right shall  sustain  nearly  all  the  weight.  By  this  method, 
very  little  pressure  is  brought  to  bear  on  the  bait-stick,  and 
a  very  slight  twitch  will  throw  it  out  of  poise.  The  fork  of 
the  bait-stick  should  point  to  the  side  of  the  inclosure,  as,  in 
this  case,  when  the  bait  is  seized  by  the  unlucky  intruder, 
the  very  turning  of  the  fork  forces  the  notch  from  beneath 
the  horizontal  stick,  and  throws  the  parts  asunder. 

If  the  trap  is  set  for  muskrats,  minks,  skunks,  or  animals 
of  similar  size,  the  weight  of  the  log  will  generally  be  found 
sufficient  to  effect  their  death ;  but,  if  desired,  a  heavy  stono 


THE   DEAD-FALL  II3 

may  be  rested  against  it,  or  the  raised  end  weighted  with 
other  logs  (see  p.  18),  to  make  sure.  When  set  for  a  coon 
or  fox,  this  precaution  is  necessary.  To  guard  against  the 
cunning  which  some  animals  possess,  it  is  frequently  neces- 
sary to  cover  the  top  of  the  pen  with  cross-sticks,  as  there  are 
numerous  cases  on  record  where  the  intended  victims  have 
climbed  over  the  side  of  the  inclosure,  and  taken  the  bait 
from  the  inside,  thus  keeping  clear  of  the  suspended  log, 
and  springing  the  trap  without  harm  to  themselves.  A  few 
sticks  or  branches  laid  across  the  top  of  the  inclosure  will 
prevent  any  such  capers ;  and  the  crafty  animals  will  either 
have  to  take  the  bait  at  the  risk  of  their  lives,  or  leave  it  alone. 

For  trapping  the  muskrat,  the  bait  may  consist  of  carrots,  turnips, 
apples,  and  the  like.  For  the  mink,  a  bird's  head,  or  the  head 
of  a  fowl,  is  the  customary  bait ;  and  the  skunk  may  usually  be 
taken  with  sweet  apples,  meats,  or  some  portion  of  a  dead  fowl. 

In  the  case  of  the  fox,  which  we  have  mentioned,  the  setting 
of  the  trap  was  somewhat  varied  ;  and  in  case  our  readers  might 
desire  to  try  a  similar  experiment,  we  will  devote  a  few  lines 
to  a  description  of  it.  In  this  instance,  the  flat  stick  which 
supported  the  log  was  not  more  than  eight  inches  in  length ; 
and  instead  of  the  bait-stick,  a  slight  framework  of  slender 
branches  was  substituted.  This  frame  or  lattice-work  was 
just  large  enough  to  fill  the  opening  of  the  pen,  and  its  upper 
end  supported  the  flat  stick.  The  duck  was  fastened  to  the 
back  part  of  the  pen,  which  was  also  closed  over  the  top.  The 
quacking  of  the  fowl  attracted  the  fox;  and  as  he  thrust  his 
head  through  the  lattice  to  reach  his  prey,  the  frame  was  thrown 
out  of  balance  and  Reynard  paid  the  price  of  his  greed  and  folly. 

There  is  another  mode  of  adjusting  the  pieces  of  the  dead- 
fall, commonly  employed  by  professional  trappers,  whereby  the 
trap  is  sprung  by  the  foot  of  the  animal  in  quest  of  the  bait. 
This  construction  is  shown  correctly  in  the  accompanying  cut, 
which  gives  the  front  view,  the  pen  being  made  as  before.  The 
stout  crotch  represented  at  (a)  is  rested  on  the  summit  of  a 
strong  peg,  driven  into  the  ground  beneath  the  outside  edge  of 
the  suspended  log  ;  {p)  is  the  treacherous  stick  which  seals  the 
doom  of  any  animal  that  dares  rest  his  foot  upon  it.  This 
piece  should  be  long  enough  to  stretch  across  and  overlap  the 
guard-pegs  at  each  side  of  the  opening.  To  set  the  trap,  rest 
the  short  crotch  of  {a)  on  the  top  of  the  peg,  and  lov/er  the  log 
upon  it,  keeping  the  leverage  sliglit,  as  directed  in  our  last 
example,  letting  much  of  the  weight  come  on  the  top  of  the 


114 


MISCELLANEOUS   TRAPS. 


peg.  The  long  arm  of  the  crotch  should  be  pressed  inward 
from  the  front,  and  one  end  of  the  stick  {b)  should  then  be 
caught  between  its  extreme  tip,  and  the  upright  peg  about  ten 
inches  above  the  ground.     By  nov/  fastening^'the  bait  to  a  peg 


at  the  back  part  of  the  pen,  the  affair  is  in  working  order,  and 
will  be  found  perfectly  reliable.  The  ground  log  (d)  being 
rested  in  place  as  seen  in  the  illustration.  To  make  assurance 
doubly  sure,  it  is  well  to  cut  a  slight  notch  in  the  upright  stick 
at  (c)  for  the  reception  of  the  foot-piece  {b).  By  this  precau- 
tion the  stick,  when  lowered,  is  bound  to  sink  at  the  right  end, 
thus  ensuring  success. 

The  Figure-Four  Trap,  already  described  in  another  part  of 
this  book,  is  also  well  adapted  to  the  dead-fall,  and  is  much  used. 
It  should  be  made  of  stout  pieces  and  erected  at  the  opening  of 
the  pen,  with  the  bait  pointing  toward  the  interior,  the  heavy 
log  being  poised  on  its  summit. 

THE   GARROTE. 

There  is  another  variety  of  trap,  somewhat  resembling  the 
dead-fall,  but  which  seizes  its  prey  in  a  little  different  manner. 


THE   GARROTTE.  II5 

This  trap,  which  we  will  call  the  Garrote^  is  trutly  represented 
by  our  illustration.  A  pen  is  first  constructed,  similar  to  that  of 
the  dead-fall.  At  the  opening  of  the  pen,  two  arches  arc  fastened 
in  the  ground.  They  should  be  about  an  inch  apart.  A  stout 
forked  stick  should  then  be  cut,  and  firmly  fixed  in  the  earth  at 
the  side  of  the  arches,  and  about  three  feet  distant. 

Our  main  illustration  gives  the  general  appearance  of  the 
trap,  but  we  also  subjoin  an  additional  cut,  showing  the  "  set- 
ting "  or  arrangement  of  the  pieces.  They  are  three  in  number, 
and  consist :  First,  of  a  notched  peg,  which  is  driven  into  the 
ground  at  the  back  part  of  the  pen,  and  a  little  to  one  side. 
Second,  of  a  forked  twig,  the  branch  of  which  should  point 


downward  with  the  bait  attached  to  its  end.  The  third  stick 
being  the  little  hooked  piece  catching  beneath  the  arches. 
The  first  of  these  is  too  simple  to  need  description.  The  second 
should  be  about  eight  inches  long ;  a  notch  should  be  cut  in 
each  end.  The  upper  one  being  on  the  side  from  which  the 
branch  projects,  and  the  other  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stick, 
and  at  the  other  end,  as  is  made  plain  by  our  illustration.  The 
third  stick  may  consist  merely  of  a  hooked  crotch  of  some  twig, 
as  this  is  always  to  be  found.  Indeed,  nearly  all  the  parts  of 
this  trap  may  be  found  in  any  woods ;  and,  with  the  exception  of 
a  jack-knife,  bait,  and  string,  the  trapper  need  not  trouble  him- 
self to  carry  any  materials  v/hatever.  When  the  three  pieces 
are  thus  made  the  trap  only  awaits  the  "  Garrote."  This  should 
be  made  from  a  stiff  pole,  about  six  feet  in  length,  having  a 
heavy  stone  tied  to  its  large  end,  and  a  loop  of  the  shape  of  the 
letter  U,  or  a  slipping  noose,  made  of  stout  cord  or  wire,  fastened 


ii6 


MISCELLANEOUS   TRAPS. 


at  the  smaller  end.  To  arrange  the  pieces  for  their  destructivfe' 
work,  the  pole  should  be  bent  down  so  that  the  loop  shall  fall 
between  the  arches.  The  "  crotch  stick  "  should  then  be  hooked 
beneath  the  front  of  the  arch,  letting  its  arm  point  inward. 
After  this  the  bait  stick  should  be  placed  in  its  position,  with 
the  bait  pointing  downward,  letting  one  end  catch  beneath  the 
notch  in  the  ground-peg,  and  the  other  over  the  tip  of  the  crotch 
stick.     This  done,  and  the  trap  is  set. 

Like  the  dead-fall,  the  bait  stick  should  point  toward  the  side 
of  the  pen,  as  the  turning  involved  in  pulling  it  toward  the  front 
is  positively  sure  to  slip  it  loose  from  its  catches.  Be  careful  to 
see  that  the  loop  is  nicely  arranged  between  the  arches,  and  that 
the  top  of  the  pen  is  covered  with  a  few  twigs.  If  these  direc- 
tions are  carefully  follow- 
ed,and  if  the  young  trapper 
has  selected  a  good  trap- 
ping ground,  it  will  not  be 
a  matter  of  many  days  be- 
fore he  will  discover  the 
upper  portion  of  the  arches 
occupied  by  some  rabbit, 
muskrat,  or  other  unlucky 
^lifi  >".  creature,  either  standing 
\  v_/:'%^^  on  its  hind  legs,  or  lift- 
""/^•^^'-^  ed  clean  off  the  ground. 
Coons  are  frequently  se- 
cured by  this  trap,  al- 
though, as  a  general  thing,  they  don't  show  much  enthusiasm 
over  traps  of  any  kind,  and  seem  to  prefer  to  get  their  food 
elsewhere,  rather  than  take  it  off  the  end  of  a  bait  stick. 


THE   BOW   TRAP. 

This  most  excellent  and  unique  machine  is  an  invention  of 
the  author's,  and  possesses  great  advantages,  both  on  account 
of  its  durability  and  of  the  speedy  death  which  it  inflicts. 

Procure  a  board  about  two  feet  in  length,  by  five  or  six  in 
width,  and  commencing  at  about  nine  inches  from  one  end,  cut 
a  hole  four  or  more  inches  square.  This  may  readily  be  done 
with  a  narrow  saw,  by  first  boring  a  series  of  gimlet  holes  in 
which  to  insert  it.  There  will  now  be  nine  inches  of  board  on 
one  side  of  the  hole  and  eleven  on  the  other.  The  shorter  end 
constituting  the  top  of  the  trap.    On  the  upper  edge  of  the  hole 


BOW   TRAP. 


117 


a  row  of  stout  tin  teeth  should  be  firmly  tacked,  as  seen  in  the 
illustration.  On  the  other  side  of  the  cavity,  and  three  inches 
from  it  a  small  auger  hole  (the  size  of  a  lead  pencil),  should  be 
bored.  After  which  it  should  be  sand-papered  and  polished 
on  the  interior,  by  rubbing  with  some  smooth,  hard  tool,  in- 
serted inside.  A  round  plug  of  wood  should  next  be  prepared. 
Let  it  be  about  half  an  inch  m  length,  being  afterwards  bevelled 
nearly  the  whole  length  of  one  side,  as  shown  at  (J?),  leaving  a 


little  over  an  eight  of  an  inch  of  the  wood  unwhittled.  This  little 
piece  of  wood  is  the  most  important  part,  of  the  trap,  and  should  be 
made  very  carefully.  The  remaining  end  of  the  board  below  the 
auger  hole  should  now  be  whittled  off  to  a  point,  in  order  that  it 
may  be  driven  into  the  ground.  The  next  requisites  consist  of 
two  pieces  of  wood,  which  are  seen  at  the  sides  of  the  square 
hole,  in  our  illustration,  and  also  seen  at  (^),  side  view.     These 


Il8  MISCELLANEOUS   TRAPS. 

pieces  should  be  about  six  inches  in  length  and  about  an  inch 
square.  A  thin  piece  being  cut  off  from  one  side  of  each,  to  the 
distance  of  four  inches,  and  ending  in  a  square  notch.  The 
other  end  should  be  rounded  off,  as  is  also  there  plainly  indicated. 
Before  adjusting  the  pieces  in  place,  two  tin  catches  should  be 
fastened  to  the  board,  one  on  each  side  of  the  hole.  This 
catch  is  shown  at  {d\  and  consists  merely  of  a  piece  of  tin,  half 
an  inch  in  width,  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  length,  tacked 
to  the  wood,  and  having  its  end  raised,  as  indicated.  Its  object 
is  to  hold  the  bow-string  from  being  pulled  down  after  once 
passing  it.  The  upper  edge  of  these  catch-pieces  should  be 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  top  of  the  hole,  and,  if  desired, 
two  or  three  of  them  may  be  arranged  one  above  the  other,  so 
that  wherever  the  string  may  stop  against  the  neck  of  the  inmate 
it  will  be  sure  to  hold.  The  catches  being  in  place,  proceed  to 
adjust  the  pieces  of  wood,  letting  the  notch  be  on  a  line  with 
the  top  of  the  pole,  or  a  little  above  it.  Each  piece  should  be 
fastened  with  two  screws  to  make  secure. 

We  will  now  give  our  attention  to  the  bait  stick.  This 
should  be  about  six  inches  in  length,  and  square,  as  our  illustra- 
tion shov/s.  There  are  two  ways  of  attaching  the  bait-stick  to 
the  board,  both  shown  at  {e)  and  (/).  The  former  consists 
merely  of  a  screw  eye  inserted  into  the  end  of  the  stick,  after- 
wards hinged  to  the  board  by  a  wire  staple.  The  point  for  the 
hinge,  in  this  case,  should  be  about  an  inch  below  the  auger 
hole.  In  the  other  method  (/),  the  bait  stick  should  be  a  half 
inch  longer,  and  the  spot  for  the  hinge  a  quarter  inch  lower.  At 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  square  end  of  the  bait  stick 
a  small  hole  should  be  made  by  the  use  of  a  hot  wire.  An  oblong 
mortice  should  next  be  cut  in  the  board,  so  as  to  receive  this 
end  of  the  stick  easily.  A  stout  bit  of  wire  should  then  be  in- 
serted in  the  little  hole  in  the  stick,  and  laying  this  across  the 
centre  of  the  mortice,  it  should  be  thus  secured  by  two  staples, 
as  the  drawing  shows.  This  forms  a  very  neat  and  simple  hinge. 
To  determine  the  place  for  the  catch,  insert  the  flat  end  of  the 
little  plug  fairly  into  the  auger-hole  above  the  hinge.  Draw  up 
the  bait  stick,  and  at  the  point  Avhere  it  comes  in  contact  with 
the  point  of  the  plug,  cut  a  square  notch,  as  shown  in  (b). 
Everything  now  awaits  the  bow.  This  should  be  of  hickory  or 
other  stout  wood ;  it  is  well  to  have  it  seasoned,  although  a  stout 
sapling  will  answer  the  purpose  very  well.  It  should  be  fastened 
to  the  top  of  the  board  by  two  heavy  staples,  or  nails  driven  on 
each  side  of  it.     The  string  should  be  heavy  Indian  twine.     Our 


MOLE   TRAP. 


119 


illustration  shows  the  trap,  as  it  appears  when  ready  for  bus- 
iness. The  plug  is  inserted,  as  already  described,  with  the 
bevelled  face  downward,  and  square  end  in  the  hole.  Draw 
down  the  bow-string  and  pass  it  beneath  the  plug,  at  the  same 
time  catching  the  tip  of  the  latter  in  the  notch  of  the  bait  stick. 
If  properly  constructed  the  string  will  thus  rest  on  the  slight  un- 
cut portion  of  the  under  side  of  the  peg,  and  the  trap  is  thus  set. 
If  the  bait  is  pushed  when  approached,  the  notch  is  forced  off 
from  the  plug,  and  the  string  flies  up  with  a  twang!  securing  the 
neck  of  its  victim,  and  pro  ucing  almost  instant  death.  If  the 
h2\\.\?, pulled^  the  bait  stick  thus  forces  the  plug  into  the  hole  in 
the  board,  and  thus  slides  the  cord  on  to  the  bevel,  which  imme- 
diately releases  it,  and  the  bow  is  sprung.  So  that  no  matter 
whether  the  bait  is  pushed  or  drawn  towards  the  front,  the  trap 
is  equally  sure  to  spring. 

In  setting  this  curious  machine,  it  is  only  necessary  to  insert 
it  into  the  ground,  and  surround  the  bait  with  a  slight  pen,  in  order 
that  it  may  not  be  approached  from  behind.  By  now  laying  a 
stone  or  a  pile  of  sticks  in  front  of  the  affair,  so  that  the  bait 
may  be  more  readily  reached,  the  thing  is  ready.  Care  is  re- 
quired in  setting  to  arrange  the  pieces  delicately.  The  plug 
should  be  very  slightly  inserted  into  the  auger  hole,  and  the 
notch  in  the  bait  stick  should  be  as  small  as  possible,  and  hold. 
All  this  is  made  clear  in  our  illustration  {b\ 

By  observing  these  little  niceties  the  trap  becomes  very  sure 
and  sensitive. 

Bait  with  small  apple,  nub  of  corn,  or  the  like. 

THE  MOLE  TRAP. 

If  there  is  any  one  subject  upon  which  the  ingenuity  of  the 
farmers  has  been  taxed,  it  is  on  the  invention  of  a  mole  trap 
which  would  effectually  clear  their  premises  of  these  blind  bur 
rowing  vermin.  Many  patented  devices  of  this  character  are  on 
the  market,  and  many  odd  pictured  ideas  on  the  subject  have 
gone  the  rounds  of  the  illustrated  press,  but  they  all  sink  into 
insignificance  when  tested  beside  the  trap  we  here  present.  It 
has  no  equal  among  mole  traps,  and  it  can  be  made  with  the 
utmost  ease  and  without  cost.  The  principle  on  which  it  works 
is  the  same  as  the  Fish  Trap  on  page  120. 

Construct  a  hollow  wooden  tube  about  five  inches  in  diam- 
eter, and  eight  inches  in  length.  A  section  of  a  sm.all  tree, 
neatly  excavated  with  a  large  auger  is  just  the  thing.     Through 


I20  MISCELLANEOUS    TRAPS. 

the  centre  of  one  of  the  sides  a  small  hole  the  size  of  a  lead 
pencil  should  be  bored,  this  being  the  upper  side.  About 
halt  an  inch  distant  from  each  end  a  smaller  hole  should  be 
made  for  the  passage  of  the  noose.  The  spring  should  consist 
either  of  a  stout  steel  rod,  whalebone  or  stiff  sapling,  a  foot  or 
more  in  length,  inserted  downward  through  holes  in  the  side 
of  the  tube  after  the  manner  of  the  Fish  Trap  already  alluded 
to.  No  bait  is  required.  A  simple  stick  the  size  of  the  central 
hole  at  one  end,  and  an  inch  in  width  at  the  other  being  suffi- 
cient. The  trap  is  set  as  described  in  the  other  instances,  and 
as  the  introduction  of  the  spindle-stick  is  sometimes  attended 
with  difficulty  owing  to  its  position  inside  the  trap,  the  bottom 
of  the  latter  is  sometimes  cut  away  for  two  or  three  inches  to 
facilitate  the  operation.  The  trap  is  then  to  be  imbedded 
within  the  burrow  of  the  mole.  Find  afresh  tunnel  and  carefully 
remove  the  sod  above  it.  Insert  the  trap  and  replace  the  turf. 
The  first  mole  that  starts  on  his  rounds  through  that  burrow  is 
a  sure  prisoner,  no  matter  from  which  side  he  may  approach. 

Immense  numbers  of  these  troublesome  vermin  have  been 
taken  in  a  single  season  by  a  dozen  such  traps,  and  they  possess 
great  advantages  over  all  other  mole  traps  on  account  of  their 
simplicity  and  unfailing  success. 

A   FISH    TRAP. 


Our  list  of  traps  would  be  incomplete  without  a  Fish  Trap, 
and  although  we  have  mentioned  some  contrivances  in  this  line 

under  our  article  on  "  Fishing  " 
v/e  here  present  one  which  h 
both  new  and  novel. 

Its  mode  of  construction  is. 
exactly  similar  to  the  Double 
Box  Snare,  page  (57).  A  sec- 
tion of  stove-pipe  one  foot  in 
length  should  first  be  obtained. 
Through  the  iron  at  a  point 
equidistant  from  the  ends,  a  hole 
should  be  made  with  some 
smooth,  sharp  pointed  instru- 
ment, the  latter  being  forced 
outward  irom.  the  ijiside  of  the 
pipe,  thus  causing  the  ragged  edge  of  the  hole  to  aj^pear  on  the 
outside,  as  seen  in  our  illustration.     The  diameter  of  the  aper- 


A    FISH   TRAP.' 


121 


ture  should  be  about  that  of  a  lead  pencil.  Considering  this  as 
the  upper  side  of  the  pipe,  proceed  to  pierce  two  more  holes 
downward  through  the  side  of  the  circumference,  for  the  ad- 
mission of  a  stout  stick  or  steel  rod.  This  is  fully  explained 
in  our  illustration.  The  further  arrangement  of  bait  stick  and 
nooses  is  exactly  identical  with  that  described  on  page  (57).  It 
may  be  set  for  suckers,  pickerel,  and  fish  of  like  size,  the  bait 
stick  being  inserted  with  sufficient  firmness  to  withstand  the  at- 
tacks of  smaller  fish.  The  bait  should  be  firmly  tied  to  the  stick, 
or  the  latter  supphed  with  two  hooks  at  the  end  on  which  it 
should  be  firmly  impaled.  To  set  the  trap,  select  a  locality 
abounding  in  fish.  Place  a  stone  inside  the  bottom  of  the  pipe, 
insert  the  bait  stick  and   arrange  the  nooses. 

By  now  quietly  grasping  the  curve  of  the  switch  the  trap 
may  be  easily  lowered  to  the  bottom.  The  bait  soon  attracts 
a  multitude  of  small  fishes  ;  these  in  turn  attract  the  pickerel  to 
the  spot,  and  before  many  minutes  the  trap  is  sprung  and  may 
be  raised  from  the  water  with  its  prisoner.  This  odd  device  is 
an  invention  of  the  author's,  and  it  is  as  successful  as  it  is 
unique 


Maternal  Advice. 


BOOK  V. 


HOUSEHOLD  TRAPS. 


OR  the  most  effectual  domestic  trap  on 
record  see  our  page  title  to  this  section. 
There  are  several  others  also  which  have 
done  good  service  in  many  households, 
and  for  the  sake  of  pestered  housekeep- 
ers generally,  we  devote  a  corner  of  our 
volume  for  their  especial  benefit. 

Foremost  in  the  list  of  domestic  pests 
the  rat  stands  pre-eminent,  and  his  pro- 
verbial shrewdness  and  cunning  render 
his  capture  often  a  very  difficult,  if  not  an  impossible  task.  We 
subjoin,  however,  a  few  hints  and  suggestions  of  practical 
value,  together  with  some  perfected  ideas  in  the  shape  of 
traps,  by  which  the  average  rat  may  be  easily  outwitted  and  led 
to  his  destruction. 
First  on  the  list  is 


THE  BARREL  TRAP. 


This  most  ingenious  device  possesses  great  advantages  in  its 
capabilities  of  securing  an  almost  unlimited  number  of  the 
vermin  in  quick  succession.  It  also  takes  care  of  itself,  re- 
quires no  re-baiting  or  setting  after  once  put  in  working  order, 
and  is  sure  death  to  its  prisoners. 

A  water-tight  barrel  is  the  first  thing  required.  Into  this 
pour  water  to  the  depth  of  a  foot.  Next  dampen  a  piece  of 
very  thick  paper,  and  stretch  it  over  the  top  of  the  barrel,  tying 
it  securely  below  the  upper  hoops.  When  the  paper  dries  it 
will  become  thoroughly  flat  and  tightened.  Its  surface  should 
then  be  strewn  with  bits  of  cheese,  etc.,  and  the  barrel  so  placed 


l^O  HOUSEHOLD    TRAPS. 

that  the  rats  may  jump  upon  it  from  some  neighboring  sur- 
face. As  soon  as  the  bait  is  gone,  a  fresh  supply  should  be 
spread  on  the  paper  and  the  same  operation  repeated  for 
several  days,  until  the  rats  get  accustomed  to  visit  the  place  for 
their  regular  rations,  fearlessly  and  without  suspicion.  This  is 
"half  the  battle,"  and  the  capture  of  the  greedy  victims  of  mis- 
placed confidence  is  now  an  easy  matter.  The  bait  should 
again  be  spread  as  before  and  a  few  pieces  of  the  cheese  should 
be  attached  to  the  paper  with  gum.     It  is  a  good  plan  to  smear 


parts  of  the  paper  with  gum  arabic,  sprinkling  the  bait  upon  it. 
When  dry,  cut  a  cross  in  the  middle  of  the  paper,  as  seen  in  the 
illustration,  and  leave  the  barrel  to  take  care  of  itself  and  the 
rats.  The  first  one  comes  along,  spies  the  tempting  morsels, 
and  with  his  accustomed  confidence,  jumps  upon  the  paper. 
He  suddenly  finds  himself  in  the  water  at  the  bottom  of  the 
barrel,  and  the  paper  above  has  closed  and  is  ready  to  practice 
its  deception  on  the  next  comer.  There  is  not  long  to  wait.  A 
second  victim  soon  tumbles  in  to  keep  company  with  the  first. 
A  third  and  a  fourth  soon  follow,  and    a  dozen  or  more  are 


BARREL    TRAPS.  llj 

sometimes  thus  entrapped  in  a  very  short  space  of  time.  It  is 
a  most  excellent  and  simple  trap,  and  if  properly  managed,  will 
most  effectually  curtail  the  number  of  rats  in  any  pestered 
neighborhood. 

By  some,  it  is  considered  an  improvement  to  place  in  the 
bottom  of  the  barrel  a  large  stone,  which  shall  project  above  the 
water  sufficiently  to  offer  a  foothold  for  one  rat.  The  first  vic- 
tim, of  course,  takes  possession  of  this  retreat  and  on  the  precip- 
itate arrival  of  the  second  a  contest  ensues  for  its  occupancy. 
The  hubbub  which  follows  is  said  to  attract  all  the  rats  in  the 
neighborhood  to  the  spot,  and  many  are  thus  captured. 

We  can  hardly  recommend  the  addition  of  the  stone  as  being 
an  improvement.  The  rat  is  a  most  notoriously  shrewd  and 
cunning  animal,  and  the  despairing  cries  of  his  comrades  must 
rather  tend  to  excite  his  caution  and  suspicion.  By  the  first 
method  the  drowning  is  soon  accomplished  and  the  rat  utters 
no  sound  whereby  to  attract  and  warn  his  fellows.  This  con- 
trivance has  been  thoroughly  tested  and  has  proved  its  effi- 
cacy in  many  households  by  completely  ridding  the  premises  of 
the  vermin. 

Another  excellent  form  of  Barrel  Trap  is  that  embodying 
the  principle  described  in  page  (131).  A  circular  platform  should 
be  first  constructed  and  hinged  in  the  opening  of  the  barrel. 
This  may  be  done  by  driving  a  couple  of  small  nails  thiough 
the  sides  of  the  barrel  into  a  couple  of  staples  inserted  near 
the  opposite  edges  of  the  iDlatform.  The  latter  should  be  deli- 
cately weighted,  as  described  on  the  above  mentioned  page,  and 
previously  to  setting,  should  be  baited  in  a  stationary  position 
for  several  days  to  gain  the  confidence  of  the  rats.  The  bait 
should  at  last  be  secured  to  the  platform  with  gum,  and  the  bot- 
tom of  the  barrel  of  course  filled  with  water,  as  already  de- 
scribed. This  trap  possesses  the  samo  advantages  as  the  fore- 
going.    It  is  self-settings  and  unfailing  in  its  action. 

Another  method  consists  in  half-filling  the  barrel  with  oats, 
and  allowing  the  rats  to  enjoy  their  repast  there  for  several 
days.  When  thus  attracted  to  the  spot,  remove  the  oats,  and 
pour  the  same  bulk  of  water  into  the  barrel,  sprinkling  the  sur- 
face thickly  with  the  grain.  The  delusion  is  almost  perfect,  as 
will  be  effectually  proven  when  the  first  rat  visits  the  spot  for 
his  accustomed  free  lunch.  Down  he  goes  with  a  splash,  is 
soon  drowned,  and  sinks  to  the  bottom.  The  next  shares  th& 
same  fate,  and  several  more  are  likely  to  be  added  to  the  list  of 
mis<xuidcd  victims. 


128  HOUSEHOLD   TRAPS. 

Many  of  the  devices  described  throughout  mis  work  may  be 
adapted  for  domestic  use  to  good  purpose.  The  box-trap 
page  103,  box-snare,  page  ^S)  iigure-four,  page  107,  are  all 
suitable  for  the  capture  of  the  rat ;  also,  the  examples  given  on 
pages  106,  109,  no,  and  129. 

The  steel-trap  is  often  used,  but  should  always  be  con- 
cealed from  view.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  set  it  in  a  pan  covered 
with  meal,  and  placed  in  the  haunts  of  the  rats.  The  trap  may 
also  be  set  at  the  mouth  of  the  rats'  hole,  and  covered  with  a 
piece  of  dark-colored  cloth  or  paper.  The  runways  between 
boxes,  boards,  and  the  like  offer  excellent  situations  for  the 
trap,  which  should  be  covered,  as  before  directed. 

Without  one  precaution,  however,  the  trap  may  be  set  in 
vain.  Much  of  the  so-called  shrewdness  of  the  rat  is  nothing 
more  than  an  instinctive  caution,  through  the  acute  sense  of 
smell  which  the  animal  possesses  ;  and  a  trap  which  has  secured 
one  victim  will  seldom  extend  its  list,  unless  all  traces  of  its 
first  occupant  are  thoroughly  eradicated.  This  may  be  accom- 
plished by  smoking  the  trap  over  burning  paper,  hens'  feathers 
or  chips,  taking  care  to  avoid  a  heat  so  extreme  as  to  affect  the 
temper  of  the  steel  springs.  All  rat-traps  should  be  treated  the 
same  way,  in  order  to  insure  success,  and  the  position  and  locali- 
ties of  setting  should  be  frequently  changed. 

THE   BOX   DEAD-FALL. 

This  trap  is  an  old  invention,  simplified  by  the  author,  and 
for  the  capture  of  rats  and  mice  will  prove  very  effectual.  It 
consists  of  a  box,  constructed  of  four  slabs  of  3-4  inch  board- 
ing, and  open  at  both  ends.  The  two  side  boards  should  be 
10  X  18  inches  ;  top  and  bottom  boards,  6  x  18  inches.  For  the 
centre  of  the  latter,  a  square  piece  should  be  removed  by  the 
aid  of  the  saw.  The  width  of  this  piece  should  be  four  inches, 
and  the  length  eight  inches.  Before  nailing  the  boards  to- 
gether, the  holes  thus  left  in  the  bottom  board  should  be 
supplied  with  a  treadle  platform,  working  on  central  side  pivots. 
The  board  for  this  treadle  should  be  much  thinner  and  lighter 
than  the  rest  of  the  trap,  and  should  fit  loosely  in  place,  its  sur- 
face being  slightly  below  the  level  of  the  bottom  board.  This 
is  shown  in  the  interior  of  the  trap.  The  pivots  should  be 
inserted  in  the  exact  centre  of  the  sides,  through  holes  made 
in  the  edge  of  the  bottom  board.  These  holes  may  be  bored 
with  a  gimlet  or  burned  with  a  red-hot  wire.     The  pivots  may 


HOUSEHOLD   TRAPS. 


129 


consist  of  stout  brass  or  iron  wire  ;  and  the  end  of  one  should  be 
flattened  with  the  hammer,  as  seen  at  (a).  This  pivot  should 
project  an  inch  from  the  wood,  and  should  he^n/ily  inserted  in 
the  treadle-piece.  The  platform  being  thus  arranged,  proceed  to 
fasten  the  boards  together,  as  shown  in  the  illustration,  the  top 
and  bottom  boards  overlapping  the  others.  We  will  now  give 
bur  attention  to  the  stick  shown  at  (3),     This  should  be  whittled 


from  a  piece  ot  hard  wood,  its  length  being  three  inches,  and 
its  upper  end  pointed  as  seen.  The  lower  end  should  be 
pierced  with  a  crevice,  which  should  then  be  forced  over  the 
flattened  extremity  of  the  point  (a)  as  shown  at  (c),  pointed  end 
uppermost.  The  weight  (a)  is  next  in  order.  This  should  con- 
sist of  a  heavy  oak  plank  two  inches  in  thickness,  and  of  such 
other  dimensions  as  will  allow  it  to  fit  loosely  in  the  box,  and  fall 
from  top  to  bottom  therein  without  catching  between  the  sides.  A 
stout  staple  should  be  driven  in  the  centre  of  its  upper  face,  and 
from  this  a  stout  string  should  be  passed  upward  through  a  hole 
in  the  centre  of  the  box.  We  are  now  ready  for  the  spindle  {e). 
This  should  be  about  three  inches  in  length,  and  bluntly  pointed 


130 


HOUSEHOLD   TRAPS. 


at  each  end,  a  notch  being  made  to  secure  it  at  a  point  five 
inches  above  the  pivot  (c).  To  set  the  trap,  raise  the  weight,  as 
seen  in  the  illustration  ;  draw  down  the  string  to  the  point  (e), 
and  attach  it  to  the  spindle  one-half  an  inch  from  its  upper 
end,  which  should  then  be  inserted  in  the  notch,  the  lower  end 
being  caught  against  the  extremity  of  the  pivot  stick.  The 
parts  are  now  adjusted,  and  even  iathe  present  state  the  trap 
is  almost  sure  to  spring  at  the  slighest  touch  on  the  treadle- 
piece.  An  additional  precaution  is  advisable,  however.  Two 
small  wooden  pegs  (/)  should  be  driven,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
spindle,  thus  preventing  any  side-movement  of  the  latter.  It 
will  now  be  readily  seen  that  the  slightest  weight  on  either  end 
of  the  treadle-piece  within  the  trap  must  tilt  it  to  one  side, 
thus  throwing  the  pivot-piece  from  its  bearing  on  the  spin- 
dle ;  and  the  latter  being  released,  lets  fall  the  weight  with 
crushing  effect  upon  the  back  of  its  hapless  victim. 

The  trap  is  very  effective,  and  is  easily  constructed.  The 
bait  should  be  rested  in  the  centre  of  the  treadle  platform. 
Built  on  a  larger  scale,  this  device  may  be  successfully  adapted 
to  the  capture  of  the  mink,  martien,  and  many  other  varieties  of 
game. 

THE  BOARD-FLAP. 


THE    BOX   PIT-FALL.  13I 

For  the  capture  of  mice  this  is  both  a  simple  and  effective 
contrivance,  and  it  may  be  enlarged  so  as  to  be  of  good  ser- 
vice for  larger  animals.  Procure  two  boards,  one  foot  square  and 
one  inch  thick,  and  secure  them  together  by  two  hinges,  as  in  the 
illustration.  Assuming  one  as  the  upper  board,  proceed  to 
bore  a  gimlet  hole  three  inches  from  the  hinges.  This  is  for 
the  reception  of  the  bait  stick,  and  should  be  cut  away  on  ths 
inside,  as  seen  in  the  section  {a),  thus  allowing  a  free  play  for 
the  stick.  Directly  beneath  this  aperture,  and  in  the  lower 
board,  a  large  auger  hole  should  be  made.  A  stout  bit  of  iron 
wire,  ten  inches  in  length,  is  now  required.  This  should  be 
inserted  perpendicularly  in  the  further  end  of  the  lower  slab, 
being  bent  into  a  curve  which  shall  slide  easily  through  a  gimlet 
hole  in  the  edge  of  the  upper  board.  This  portion  is  very  impor- 
tant, and  should  be  carefully  constructed.  The  bait  stick 
should  be  not  more  than  three  inches  in  length,  supplied 
with  a  notch  in  its  upper  end,  and  secured  in  the  aperture 
in  the  board  by  the  aid  of. a  pivot  and  staples,  as  is  clearly 
shown  in  our  drawing.  The  spindle  is  next  in  order.  It 
should  consist  of  a  light  piece  of  pine  eight  and  a  half  inches 
in  length,  and  brought  to  an  edge  at  each  end.  A  tack  should 
now  be  driven  at  the  further  edge  of  the  upper  board  on  a  line 
Vv'ith  the  aperture  through  which  the  wire  passes.  Our  illustra- 
tion represents  the  trap  as  it  appears  when  set.  The  upper 
band  is  raised  to  the  full  limit  of  the  wire.  One  end  of  the 
spindle  is  now  adjusted  beneath  the  head  of  the  tack,  and  the 
other  in  the  notch  in  the  bait  stick.  The  wire  thus  supports 
the  suspended  board  by  sustaining  the  spindle,  which  is  held 
in  equiUbrium.  A  slight  touch  on  the  bait  stick  soon  destroys 
this  equiUbrium  :  a  flap  ensues,  and  a  dead  mouse  is  the  result. 
The  object  of  the  auger  hole  in  the  lower  board  consists  in 
affording  a  receptacle  for  the  bait  when  the  boards  come  to- 
gether, as  otherwise  it  would  defeat  its  object,  by  offering  an 
obstruction  to  the  fall  of  the  board,  and  thus  allow  its  little 
mouse  to  escape. 

It  is,  therefore,  an  essential  part  of  the  trap,  and  should  be 
carefully  tested  before  being  finally  set. 

THE  BOX  P'lT-FALL. 

We  now  come  to  a  variety  of  trap  which  differs  m  its  con- 
struction from  any  previously  described.  It  secures  its  victims 
alive,  and  without  harm,  and,  when  well  made,  is  very  success- 


132 


HOUSEHOLD   TRAPS. 


ful.     It  may  be  set  for  squirrels,  chipmunks,  rats,  mice,  and 
the  Uke,  and  on  a  large  scale  for  muskrats  and  mink. 

The  trap  is  very  easily  made,  and  is  represented  in  section 
in  our  illustration,  showing  the  height  and  interior  of  the  box. 
For  ordinary  purposes  the  box  should  be  about  twelve  or  four- 
teen inches  square,  with  a  depth  of  about  eighteen  inches.  A 
])latform  consisting  of  a  piece  of  tin  should  then  be  procured. 
This  should  be  just  large  enough  to  fit  nicely  to  the  outhne  of 
the  interior  of  the  box  without  catching.    On  two  opposite  sides 


of  this  piece  of  tin,  and  at  the  middle  of  each  of  those  sides,  a 
small  strip  of  the  same  material  should  be  wired,  or  soldered  in  the 
form  of  a  loop,  as  shown  in  the  separate  diagram  at  (/;).  These 
loops  should  be  only  large  enough  to  admit  the  end  of  a  shingle- 
nail.  A  scratch  should  now  be  made  across  the  tin  from  loop 
to  loop,  and  on  the  centre  of  this  scratch  another  and  larger 
strip  of  tin  should  be  fastened  in  a  similar  manner,  as  shown  in 
our  diagram,  at  (.7),  this  being  for  the  balance  weight.     The 


THE    BOX   PITFALL.  1 33 

latter  may  consist  of  a  small  stone,  piece  of  lead,  or  the  like,  and 
should  be  suspended  by  means  of  a  wire  bent  around  it,  and 
secured  in  a  hole  in  the  tin  by  a  bend  or  knot  in  the  other  ex- 
tremity. Further  explanations  are  almost  superfluous,  as  our 
main  illustration  fully  explains  itself. 

After  the  weight  is  attached,  the  platform  should  be  secured 
in  its  place,  about  five  inches  from  the  top  of  the  box.  To 
accomplish  this  and  form  the  hinges,  two  shingle -nails  should  be 
driven  through  the  side  of  the  box  into  the  tin  loops  prepared 
for  them.  To  do  this  nicely  requires  some  considerable  accu- 
racy and  care,  and  it  should  be  so  done  that  the  platform  will 
swing  with  perfect  freedom  and  ease,  the  weight  below  bringing 
it  to  a  horizontal  poise  after  a  few  vibrations.  Care  should  be 
taken  that  the  weight  is  not  too  heavy,  as,  in  such  a  case,  the 


"^^ 


-^ 


platform  will  not  be  sensitive  on  its  balance,  and,  consequently, 
would  not  work  so  quickly  and  surely.  The  weight  should  be 
just  heavy  enough  to  restore  the  platform  to  its  perfect  poise, 
and  no  more.  This  can  be  easily  regulated  by  experiment. 
The  bait  should  then  be  strewn  on  both  sides  of  the  platform, 
when  the  trap  is  set,  and  the  luckless  animal,  jumping  after  the 
bait,  feels  his  footing  give  way,  and  suddenly  finds  himself  in 
the  bottom  of  a  dark  box,  from  which  it  is  impossible  for  him  to 
escape  except  by  gnawing  his  way  out.  To  prevent  this,  the  in- 
terior of  the  box  may  be  lined  with  tin. 

Y^y  fastenijtg  the  bait — a  small  lump  or  piece — on  each  side 
of  the  tin,  the  trap  will  continually  reset  itself,  and,  in  this  way, 
two  or  three  individuals  may  be  taken,  one  after  the  other. 
Muskrats  are  frequently  caught  in  this  trap,  it  being  generally 
buried  in  the  ground  so  that  its  top  is  on  a  level  with  the  sur- 
face. In  this  case  it  is  necessary  to  arrange  the  platform  lower 
down  in  the  box,  and  the  latter  should  be  of  much  larger  dimen- 
sions than  the  one  we  have  described. 


134 


HOUSEHOLD   TRAPS. 


For  ordinary  purposes  the  box  should  either  be  set  in  the 
ground  or  placed  near  some  neighboring  object  which  will  afford 
easy  access  to  it.  No  less  than  a  dozen  rats  have  been  caught 
in  a  trap  of  this  kind  in  a  single  night. 


CAGE   TRAP. 


The  common  cage  trap  is  well  known  to  most  of  our 
readers,  and  for  the  capture  of  rats  and  mice,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  efficacious  devices  in  existence.  The  construction  of  one 
of  these  traps  is  quite  a  difficult  operation,  and  we  would  hesi- 
tate before  advising  our  inventive  reader  to  exercise  his  patience 
and  ingenuity  in  the  manufacture  of  an  article  which  can  be 
bought  for  such  a  small  price,  and  which,  after  all,  is  only  a 
mouse  trap.  If  it  were  a  device  for  the  capture  of  the  inijtk  or 
otter^  it  might  then  be  well  worth  the  trouble,  and  would  be 
likely  to  repay  the  time  and  labor  expended  upon  it.  We  imagine 
that  few  would  care  to  exercise  their  skill  over  a  trap  of  such 
complicated  structure,  while  our  pages  are  filled  with  other 
simpler  and  equally  effective  examples. 

For  the  benefit,  however,  of  such  as  are  of  an  inventive  turn . 
of  mind,  we  subjoin  an  illustration  of  the  trap  to  serve  as  a  guide. 
The  principle  upon  which  it  works  is  very  simple.     The  bait  is 


BOWL   TRAPS. 


135 


Strewn  inside  the  cage,  and  the  rats  or  mice  find  their  only  access 
to  it  through  the  hole  at  the  top.  The  wires  here  converge  at 
the  bottom,  and  are  pointed  at  the  ends.  The  passage  down- 
wards is  an  easy  matter,  but  to  escape  through  the  same  opening 
is  impossible,  as  the  pointed  ends  of  the  wires  effectually  prevent 
the  ascent.  It  is  a  notable  fact,  however,  that  the  efforts  to 
escape  through  this  opening  are  very  seldom  made.  The  mode 
of  entering  seems  to  be  absolutely  forgotten  by  the  captive 
animals,  and  they  rush  frantically  about  the  cage,  prying  between 
all  the  wires  in  their  wild  endeavors,  never  seeming  to  notice 
the  central  opening  by  which  they  entered.  This  is  easily  ex- 
plained by  the  fact  that  the  open  grating  admits  the  light  from 
all  sides,  and  the  enclosed  victims  are  thus  attracted  to  no  one 
spot  in  particular,  and  naturally  rush  to  the  extreme  edges  of  the 
trap,  in  the  hope  of  finding  an  exit. 

If  a  thick  cloth  be  placed  over  the  cage,  leaving  the  opening 
at  the  top  uncovered,  the  confined  creatures  are  soon  attracted 
by  the  light,  and  lose  no  time  in  rushing  towards  it,  where  their 
endeavors  to  ascend  are  effectually  checked  by  the  pointed  wires. 
Profiting  by  this  experiment,  the  author  once  imj^rovised  a 
simple  trap  on  the  same  principle,  which  proved  very  effectual. 
We  will  call  it 

THE  JAR  TRAP. 

In  place  of  the  wire  cage,  a  glass  preserve-jar  was  substituted. 
A  few  bits  of  cheese  were  then  dropped  inside,  and  the  top  of  a 
funnel  inserted  into  the  opening  above.  This  completed  the 
trap,  and  it  was  set  on  the  floor  near  the  flour  barrel.  On  the 
following  morning  the  jar  was  occupied  by  a  little  mouse,  and 
each  successive  night  for  a  week  added  one  to  the  list  of  victims. 
A  stiff  piece  of  tin,  bent  into  the  required  shape,  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  the  funnel  top,  or  even  a  very  heavy  piece  of  pasteboard 
might  answer. 

BOWL  TRAPS. 

Very  effective  extempore  traps  may  be  set  up  in  a  .few 
minutes  by  the  use  of  a  few  bowls.  There  are  two  methods 
commonly  employed.  One  consists  of  the  bowl  and  a  knife- 
blade.  An  ordinary  tableknife  is  used  and  a  piece  of  cheese  is 
firmly  forced  on  to  the  end  of  the  blade,  the  bowl  is  then  balanced 
on  the  edge,  allowing  the  bait  to  project  about  an  inch  and  a 
half  beneath  the  bowl.     The  odor  of  cheese  will  attract  a  mouse 

lO 


136  HOUSEHOLD   TRAPS. 

almost  anywhere,  and  he  soon  finds  his  way  to  the  tempting 
morsel  in  this  case.  A  very  slight  nibble  is  sufficient  to  tilt  the 
blade  and  the  bowl  falls  over  its  prisoner. 

In  the  second  method  a  thimble  is  used  in  place  of  the  knife. 
The  cheese  is  forced  into  its  interior,  and  the  open  end  of  the 
thimble  inserted  far  beneath  the  bowl,  allowing  about  half  its 
length  to  project  outward. 

The  mouse  is  thus  obliged  to  pass  under  the  bowl  in  order 
to  reach  the  bait,  and  in  his  efforts  to  grasp  the  morsel,  the 
thimble  is  dislodged  and  the  captive  secured  beneath  the  vessel. 
Where  a  small  thimble  is  used,  it  becomes  necessary  to  place  a  bit 
of  pasteboard  or  flat  chip  beneath  it,  in  order  to  raise  it  sufficiently 
to  afford  an  easy  passage  for  the  mouse.  Both  of  these  devices 
are  said  to  work  excellently. 

FLY  PAPER. 

A  sheet  of  common  paper,  smeared  with  a  mixture  composed 
of  molasses  one  part,  and  bird-lime  six  parts  (see  page  97),  will 
be  found  to  attract  large  numbers  of  flies  and  hold  them  prisoners 
upon  its  surface. 

Spruce  gum,  warmed  on  the  fire,  and  mixed  with  a  little  lin- 
seed oil,  is  also  excellent.  For  a  genuine  fly  trap,  the  following 
stands  unrivalled. 

FLY  TRAP. 

Take  a  tumbler,  and  half-fill  it  with  strong  soap  suds.  Cut 
a  circle  of  stiff  paper  which  will  exactly  fit  into  the  top  of  the 
glass.  In  the  centre  of  the  paper  cut  a  hole  half  an  inch  in 
diameter,  or,  better  still,  a  slice  of  bread  may  be  placed  on  the 
glass.  Smear  one  side  of  the  disc  with  molasses,  and  insert 
it  in  the  tumbler  with  this  side  downward.  Swarms  of  flies 
soon  surround  it,  and  one  by  one  find  their  way  downward 
through  the  hole.  Once  below  the  paper,  and  their  doom  is 
sealed.  For  a  short  time  the  molasses  absorbs  their  attention, 
and  the}^,  in  turn,  absorb  the  molasses. 

In  their  efforts  to  escape,  they  one  by  one  precipitate  them- 
selves in  the  soap  suds  below,  where  they  speedily  perish.  The 
tumbler  is  soon  half-filled  with  the  dead  insects,  and  where  a 
number  of  the  traps  are  set  in  a  single  room,  the  apartment  is 
soon  ridden  of  the  pests . 


BOOK  VI. 

STEEL  TRAPS  AND  THE  ART  OF  TRAPPING. 


^^  ASS  I NG  from  our  full  and  extended  illustrated 
^m  list  of  extempore,  or  "rough  and  ready"  exam- 
pies  of  the  trap  kind,  we  will  now  turn  our  attention 
to  the  consideration  of  that  well-known  implement, 
the  trade  steel  trap.  Although  the  foregoing  vari- 
eties often  serve  to  good  purpose,  the  Steel  Trap 
is  the  principal  device  used  by  professional  trap- 
pers, and  possesses  great  advantages  over  all 
other  traps.  It  is  portable,  sets  easily  and  quickly, 
either  on  land  or  beneath  the  water  ;  can  be  con- 
cealed with  ease  ;  secures  its  victims  without  injury 
to  their  fur,  and  by  the  application  of  the  spring 
or  sliding  pole  (hereafter  described)  will  most  effectually  pre- 
vent the  captive  from  making  his  escape  by  self-amputation, 
besides  placing  him  beyond  the  reach  of  destruction  by  other 
animals. 

The  author  has  known  trappers  who  have  plied  their  vocation 
largely  by  the  aid  of  the  various  hand  made  traps,  described 
in  the  earlier  pages  of  this  book,  and  with  good  success.  But 
in  the  regular  business  of  systematic  trapping,  their  extensive 
use  is  not  common.  The  experience  of  modern  trappers  gener- 
ally, warrants  the  assertion  that  for  practical  utility,  from  every 
point  of  view,  the  steel  trap  stands  unrivalled. 

These  traps  are  made  of  all  sizes,  from  that  suitable  for  the 
capture  of  the  house  rat,  to  the  immense  and  wieldy  machine 
adapted  to  the  grizzly,  and  known  as  the  "bear  tamer." 

They  may  be  bought  at  almost  any  hardware  shop,  although 
a  large  portion  of  the  traps  ordinarily  sold  are  defective.  They 
should  be  selected  with  care,  and  the  springs  always   tested 


138  STEEL   TRAPS   AND    THE   ART   OF   TRAPPING. 

before  purchase.  Besides  the  temper  of  the  spring,  there  are 
also  other  necessary  quihties  in  a  steel  trap,  which  we  subjoin 
in  order  that  the  amateur  may  know  how  to  judge  and  select 
his  weapons  judiciously. 


REQUISITES   OF   A  GOOD    STEEL   TRAP. 

1.  The  jaws  should  not  be  too  thin  nor  sharp  cornered.  In, 
the  cheaper  class  of  steel  traps  the  jaws  approach  to  the  thin- 
ness of  sheet-iron,  and  the  result  is  that  the  thin  edi^es  often 
sever  the  leg  of  their  would-be  captive  in  a  single  stroke.  At 
other  times  the  leg  is  so  deeply  cut  as  to  easily  enable  the  animal 
to  gnaw  or  twist  it  off.  This  is  the  common  mode  of  escape, 
with  many  animals. 

2.  The  pan  should  not  be  too  lar^e.  This  is  a  very  common 
fault  with  many  steel  traps  and  often  defeats  its  very  object. 
"Where  the  pan  is  small,  the  foot  of  the  animal  in  pressing  it, 
will  be  directly  in  the  centre  of  the  snap  of  the  jaw,  and  he  is 
thus  firmly  secured  far  up  on  the  leg.  On  the  other  hand,  a 
large  pan  nearly  filling  the  space  between  the  jaws  as  the  trap 
is  set,  may  be  sprung  by  a  touch  on  its  extreme  edge,  and  the 
animal's  toe  is  thus  likely  to  get  slightly  pinched,  if  indeed  the 
paw  is  not  thrown  off  altogether  by  the  forcible  snap  of  the  jaw. 

3.  The  springs  should  be  strongs  scientifically  tempered,  and 
proportioned.  The  strength  of  a  perfectly  tempered  spring  will 
always  remain  the  same,  whether  in  winter  or  summer,  never 
losing  its  elasticity.  The  best  of  tempering,  however,  is  useless 
in  a  spring  badly  formed  or  clumsily  tapered. 

4.  The  jaws  should  be  so  curved  as  to  give  the  bow  of  the 
spring  a  proper  sweep  to  work  upon.  The  jaws  should  lie  fiat 
when  open,  and  should  always  v/ork  easily  on  their  hinges. 

5.  Every  trap  should  be  furnished  with  a  strong  chain 
with  ring  and  swivel  attached,  and  in  every  case  the  swivel  should 
turn  easily. 

The  celebrated  ''  Newhouse  Trap  "  embodies  all  the  above 
requisites,  and  has  deservedly  won  a  reputation  for  excellence 
second  to  no  other  in  this  or  any  other  country. 
They  are  made  in  eight  sizes,  as  follows : 

This  is  the  smallest  size  and  is  known  as 
the  RAT  TRAP.  It  has  a  single  spring,  and 
the  jaws  spread  three  and  a  half  inches  when 
set. 

No.  o. 


REQUISITES   OF   A   GOOD   STEEL   TRAP. 


141 


This  size  is  called  the  MUSKRAT 
TRAP,  and  the  jaws  spread  four  inches. 
It  is  especially  designed  for  the  capture 
of  the  mink,  marten,  and  animals  of 
similar  size. 


This  is  known  in  the  trade 
as  the  MINK  TRAP,  and  the 
jaws  spread  nearly  five  inches. 
It  is  adapted  for  the  fox,  rac- 
coon, or  fisher. 


No  254 


This  size  is  called  the 
FOX  TRAP.  The  spread 
of  the  jaws  is  the  same 
as  in  the  foregoing,  but 
the  trap  is  provided  with 
two  springs,  and  consequently  has  double  the  power.  It 
is  strong  enough  for  the  otter,  and  is  generally  used  for  the 
capture  of  the  fox  and  fisher. 


No.  3  goes  by  the 
name  of  the  OTTER 
TRAP.  The  jaws 
spread  five  and  a  half 
inches,  and  the  power- 
ful double  springs  do 
excellent  service  in  the  capture  of  the  beaver,  fox,  badger, 
opossum,  wild  cat,  and  animals  of  like  size. 


Commonly  calle'd 
the  BEAVER 
TRAP.  Jaws 
spread  six  and  a 
half  inches.  This 
size  is  especially 
adapted  to  the 
wolf,  lynx  or  wolverine.  It  may  also  be  set  for  deer,  and 
extra  sets  of  jaws  are  made  expressly  for  this  purpose,  being 
easily  inserted  in  the  place  of  the  ordinary  jav/s,  when  desired 


142 


STEEL   TRAPS   AND   THE   ART   OF  TRAPPING. 


This  is  known  as  the 
*'  GREAT  BEAR  TAMER," 
and  is  a  most  formidable 
weapon.  The  jaws  spread  six- 
teen inches,  and  the  weight  of 
the  machine  is  forty-two 
pounds.  It  is  extensively 
used  in  the  capture  of  the 
moose  and  grizzly  bear,  and 
is  the  largest  and  most  power- 
ful steel  trap  made  in  this  or 
any  other  country.  The  springs 
possess  most  tremendous 
power,  and  require  to  be  set  by 
a  lever,  as  the  weight  of  an 
ordinary  man  has  not  the 
slightest  effect  upon  them. 
This  lever  may  be  easily  ap- 
plied, as  follows :  Have  at 
hand  four  stout  straps,  sup- 
plied with  buckles.  These 
should  always  be  carried  by 
the  trapper,  where  the  larger 
double-spring  traps  are  used. 
To  adjust  the  lever,  cut  four 
heavy  sticks  about  three  feet 
long.  Take  two  of  them  and 
secure  their  ends  together, 
side  by  side,  with  one  of  the 
straps.  Now  insert  the  spring 
of  the  trap  between  them, 
near  the  strap.  Bear  down 
heavily  on  the  other  extremity 
of  the  levd'r,  and  the  spring 
will  be  found  to  yield  easily, 
after  which  the  remaining 
ends  of  the  levers  should  be 
secured  by  a  second  strap. 
The  other  spring  should  now  , 
be  treated  in  the  same  way, 
after  which  the  jaws  should 
be  spread  and  the  pan  adjusted. 
1  he  removal  of  the  straps  and 


HINTS    ON    BAITING   THE   STEEL   TRAP.  143 

levers  is  now  an  easy  matter,  after  which  the  trap  is  set.     The 
stoutest  s^Dring  is  easily  made  to  yield  by  such  treatment. 


The  SMALL  BEAR  TRAP.  The  jaws  of  this  size  spread 
nearly  a  foot,  and  the  Aveight  of  the  trap  is  seventeen  pounds. 
It  is  used  in  the  capture  of  the  black  bear,  puma,  and  animals 
of    similar  size. 

All  of  the  foregoing  are  supplied  with  swivels  and  chains. 

HINTS   ON   BAITING  THE   STEEL  TRAP. 

There  is  a  very  common  and  erroneous  idea  current  among 
amateur  sportsmen  and  others  in  regard  to  the  baiting  of  the 
steel  trap  ;  viz.,  that  the  pan  of  the  trap  is  intended  for  the  bait 


^^i 


■::.w^^^,^r^^j 


This  was  the  old  custom  in  the  traps  of  bygone  times,  but  no 
modern  trap  is  intended  to  be  so  misused,  and  would  indeed 
often  defeat  its  object  in  such  a  case,  wherein  it  will  be  easily 


144  STEEL   TRAPS   AND   THE   ART   OF   TRAPPING. 

seen.  The  object  of  the  professional  trapper  is,  the  acquisition 
of  furs ;  and  a  prime  fur  skin  should  be  without  break  or  bruise, 
from  nose  to  tail.  A  trap  set  as  above  described,  would  of 
course  catch  its  victim  by  the  head  or  neck,  and  the  fur  would 
be  more  or  less  injured  at  the  very  spot  where  it  should  be  par- 
ticularly free  from  blemish. 

The  true  object  of  the  steel  trap  is,  that  it  shall  take  the  ani- 
mal by  the  leg^  thus  injuring  the  skin  only  in  a  part  where  it  is 
totally  valueless. 

We  give,  then,  this  imperative  rule — Never  bait  a  steel  trap 
on  the  paji. 

The  pan  is  intended  for  \ki^foot  of  the  game,  and  in  order  to 
insure  capture  by  this  means,  the  bait  should  be  so  placed  as 
that  the  attention  of  the  animal  will  be  drawn  away  from  the 
trap  ;  the  latter  being  in  such  a  position  as  will  cause  the  victim 
to  step  i7i  it  when  reaching  for  the  tempting  allurement. 

There  are  several  ways  of  doing  this,  one  of  which  we  here 
illustrate. 

A  pen  of  stakes,  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  V,  is  first  con- 
structed. The  trap  is  then  set  in  the  angle,  and  the  bait 
attached  to  the  end  stake  directly  over  it.  Another  method  is 
shown  in  the  picture  on  our  title-page  to  this  section,  the  bait 
being  suspended  on  a  stick  above  the  trap.  There  are  various 
other  methods  on  the  same  principle,  which  will  be  described 
hereafter,  under  the  titles  of  the  various  game. 

THE  SPRING   POLE. 

This  is  nearly  always  used  in  connection  with  the  steel  trap, 
in  the  capture  of  the  smaller  land  animals.  It  not  only  lifts  the 
creature  into  the  air,  and  thus  prevents  its  becoming  a  prey  to 
other  animals,  but  it  also  guards  against  the  escape  of  the  victim 
by  the  amputation  of  its  own  leg.  This  is  a  very  common 
mode  of  release  with  many  kinds  of  game — notably  the 
mink,  marten,  and  muskrat ;  and  for  the  successful  trapping 
of  these,  as  well  as  many  other  animals,  the  spring  and 
sliding    pole    are    absoltute    necessities.  It    is    a  simple 

contrivance,  consisting  merely  of  a  pole  inserted  in  the 
ground  near  the  trap.  The  pole  is  then  bent  down,  and  the 
trap  chain  secured  to  its  end.  A  small,  notched  peg  is  next 
driven  into  the  ground  and  the  top  of  the  pole  caught  in  it,  and 
thus  held  in  a  bent  position.  When  the  animal  is  caught,  its 
struggles  release  the  pole,  and  the  latter,  flying  up  with  a  jerk. 


THE   SLIDING   POLE. 


f45 


lifts  the  trap  and  its  occupant  high  in  the  air,  out  of  the  reach  of 
marauders,  and  beyond  the  power  of  escape  by  self-amputation. 
Even  in  the  capture  of  large  game  the  spring  pole  often  serves 
to  good  purpose.     The  struggles  of  a  heavy  animal  are  often  so 


violent  as  to  break  a  stout  trap  or  chain  ;  and  the  force  of  the 
spring  pole,  although  not  sufficient  to  raise  the  animal  from  its 
feet,  often  succeeds  in  easing  the  strain,  and  often  thus  saves  a 
trap  from  being  broken  to  pieces.  The  power  of  the  pole  must 
of  course  be  proportionate  to  the  weight  of  the  desired  game. 

THE   SLIDING   POLE. 

The  first  impulse  with  almost  every  aquatic  animal  when 
caught  in  a  trap,  is  to  plunge  headlong  into  deep  water.  With 
the  smaller  animals,  such  as  the  mink  and  muskrat,  this  is  all 
that  is  desired  by  the  trapper,  as  the  weight  of  the  trap  with  the 
chain  is  sufficient  to  drown  its  victim.  But  with  larger  animals, 
the  beaver  and  otter  for  instance,  an  additional  precaution,  in  the 
shape  of  the  "  sliding  pole,"  is  necessary.  This  consists  of  a 
pole  about  ten  feet  long,  smoothly  trimmed  of  its  branches,  ex- 
cepting at  the  tip,  where  a  few  stubs  should  be  left.  Insert  this 
end  obliquely  into  the  bed  of  the  stream,  where  the  water  is 


146 


STEEL   TRAPS  AND    THE   ART   OF   TRAPPING. 


deep,  and  secure  the  large  end  to  the  bank  by  means  of  a  hooked 
stick,  as  seen  in  our  illustration.  The  ring  of  the  chain  should 
be  large  enough  to  slide  easily  down  the  entire  length  of  the 
pole.     When  the  trap  is  set,  the  ring  should  be  slipped  on  the 


large  end  of  the  pole,  and  held  in  place  by  resting  a  stick  against 
it.  The  animal,  when  caught,  plunges  off  into  deep  water,  and 
guided  by  the  pole,  is  led  to  the  bottom  of  the  river.  The  ring 
slides  down  to  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  there  holds  its  victim 
until  drowned. 


THE   CLOG. 


A  trap  which  is  set  for  heavy  game  should  never  be  secured 
to  a  stake.  Many  of  the  larger  and  more  powerful  animals 
when  caught  in  a  trap  thus  secured,  are  apt  either  to  pull  or  twist 
their  legs  off,  or  break  both  trap  and  chain  to  pieces.  To  guard 
against  this,  the  chain  should  be  weighted  with  a  pole  or  small 
log,  of  a  size  proportionate  to  the  dimensions  of  the  game,  its 
weight  being  merely  sufficient  to  offer  a  serious  incumbrance  to 
the  animal,  without  positively  checking  its  movements.  This 
impediment  is  called  the  "  clog,"  and  is  usually  attached  to  the 
ring  of  the  trap  chain  by  its  larger  end,  the  ring  being  slipped 
over  the  latter,  and  secured  in  place  by  a  wedge.  A  look  at  our 
frontispiece  will  give  a  clear  idea  of  both  clog  and  attachment. 


THE   SEASON    FOR   TRAPPING. 
THE  GRAPPLING   IRON. 


^47 


This  answers  the  same  purpose  as  the  above,  and  is  often 
used  instead.     It  is  manufactured  in  connection  with  the  larger 


steel  traps,  and  is  attached  to  the  chain  by  a  swivel  joint.  Its 
general  shape  is  shown  in  an  en^jraving,  and  it  offers  a  serious 
resistance  to  the  victim,  who  endeavors  to  run  away  with  it. 

THE   SEASON   FOR  TRAPPING. 

The  business  of  trapping  for  profit  must  be  confined  to  the 
season  between  the  first  of  October  and  the  beginning  of  May, 
as  furs  of  all  kinds  are  worthless  when  taken  duringthe  other 
months  of  the  year.  The  reason  of  this  is  obvious.  A  '-''prime 
fur ''^  m.\xsth^  ""  thick  ^^  and  '-'- full^''  and  as  all  our  fur-bearing 
animals  shed  their  heavy  winter  coats  as  warm  weather  ap- 
proaches, it  necessarily  follows  that  the  capture  at  this  season 
would  be  unprofitable.  As  the  autumn  approaches  the  new 
growth  appears,  and  the  fur  becomes  thick  and  glossy.  By  the 
middle  of  October  most  furs  are  in  their  prime,  but  the  heart  of 
winter  is  the  best  time  for  general  trapping.     The  furs  of  thp 


148  THE   ART   OF  TRAPPING. 

mink,  muskrat,  fisher,  marten  and  beaver  are  not  in  their  per- 
fect prime  until  this  season.  And  all  other  furs  are  sure  to  be 
in  good  condition  at  this  time. 

THE  ART  OF  TRAPPING. 

From  time  immemorial,  and  in  every  nation  of  the  world,  the 
art  of  trapping  has  been  more  or  less  practised.  By  some  as  a 
means  of  supplying  their  wants  in  the  shape  of  daily  food,  and 
by  others  for  the  purpose  of  merchandise  or  profit. 

To  be  a  clever  and  succesful  trapper,  much  more  is  required 
than  is  generally  supposed.  The  mere  fact  of  a  person's  being 
able  to  set  a  trap  cleverly  and  judiciously  forms  but  a  small  part 
of  his  proficiency  ;  and  unless  he  enters  deeper  into  the  subject 
and  learns  something  of  the  nature  and  habits  of  the  animals  he 
intends  to  catch,  his  traps  will  be  set  in  vain,  or  at  best  meet 
with  but  indifferent  success.  The  study  of  natural  history  here 
becomes  a  matter  of  necessity  as  well  as  pleasure  and  profit. 
And  unless  the  trapper  thoroughly  acquaints  himself  with  the 
habits  of  his  various  game,  the  sagacity  and  cunning  of  his 
intended  victim  will  often  outwit  his  most  shrewd  endeavors, 
much  to  his  chagrin.  The  sense  of  smell,  so  largely  developed 
in  many  animals,  becomes  one  of  the  trappers  most  serious 
obstacles,  and  seems  at  times  to  amount  almost  to  positive  rea- 
son^ so  perfectly  do  the  creatures  baffle  the  most  ingenious 
attempts  of  man  in  his  efforts  to  capture  them.  A  little  insight 
into  the  ways  of  these  artful  animals,  however,  and  a  little  expe- 
rience with  their  odd  tricks  soon  enables  one  to  cope  with  them 
successfully  and  overcome  their  whims.  For  the  benefit  of  the 
amateur  who  has  not  had  the  opportunity  of  studying  for  him- 
self, the  peculiarities  of  the  various  game,  the  author  appends  a 
comprehensive  chapter  on  "  Practical  Natural  History,"  in  which 
will  be  found  full  accounts  of  the  peculiar  habits  and  leading 
characteristics  of  all  the  various  animals  commonly  sought  by 
the  trapper,  together  with  detailed  directions  for  trapping  each 
variety,  supplemented  with  a  faithful  portrait  of  the  animal  in 
nearly  every  instance.  A  careful  reading  of  the  above  mentioned 
chapter  will  do  much  towards  acquainting  the  novice  with  the 
ways  of  the  sly  creatures,  which  he  hopes  to  victimize,  and  will 
thus  prepare  him  to  contend  with  them  successfully. 

In  the  art  of  trapping  the  bait  is  often  entirely  dispensed  with, 
the  traps  being  set  and  carefully  concealed  in  the  runways  of  the 
various  animals.     These  by-paths  are  easily  detected  by  an 


"medicines''  or  scent  baits.  149 

experienced  trapper,  and  are  indicated  eitlier  by  footprints  or 
other  evidences  of  the  animal,  together  with  the  matted  leaves 
and  broken  twigs  and  grasses. 

Natural  channels,  such  as  hollow  logs  or  crevices  between 
rocks  or  fallen  trees,  offer  excellent  situations  for  steel  traps,  and 
a  good  trapper  is  always  on  the  quivive  for  such  chance  advan- 
tages, thus  often  saving  much  of  the  time  and  labor  which 
would  otherwise  be  spent  in  the  building  of  artificial  enclosures, 
etc. 

The  most  effective  baits  used  in  the  art  of  trapping  are  those 
which'  are  used  to  attract  the  animal  through  its  sense  of  smell, 
as  distinct  from  that  of  its  mere  appetite  for  food.  These  baits 
are  known  in  the  profession  as  *'  medicine,"  or  scent  baits  and 
possess  the  most  remarkable  power  of  attracting  the  various 
animals  from  great  distances,  and  leading  them  almost  irresist- 
ibly to  any  desired  spot.  Such  is  the  barkstone  or  castoreum, 
of  such  value  in  the  capture  of  the  beaver,  and  the  oil  of  anise, 
so  commonly  used  for  the  trapping  of  animals  in  general.  These 
various  substances  will  presently  be  considered  under  their  prop- 
er heading. 

Many  detailed  and  specific  directions  on  the  subject  of  trap- 
ping will  be  found  in  the  long  chapter  following;  and,  in  closing 
our  preliminary  remarks,  we  would  add  just  one  more  word  of 
general  caution,  which  the  young  trapper  should  always  bear  in 
mind. 

In  all  cases  avoid  handling  the  trap  with  the  bare  hand.  Many 
an  amateur  has  set  and  reset  his  traps  in  vain,  and  retired  from 
the  field  of  trapping  in  disgust,  from  the  mere  want  of  observing 
this  rule.  Animals  of  keen  scent  are  quick  in  detecting  the 
slightest  odors,  and  that  left  by  the  touch  of  a  human  hand  often 
suffices  to  drive  the  creature  away  from  a  trap  which,  under 
other  circumstances,  would  have  been  its  certain  destruction. 
To  be  sure  the  various  scent  baits  already  alluded  to,  will  in  a 
measure  overcome  human  traces,  but  not  always  effectually,  and 
in  order  to  insure  success  no  precautions  so  simple  should  be 
neglected.  A  pair  of  clean  buckskin  gloves  are  valuable  requis- 
ites to  the  trapper,  and  should  always  be  ^'on  hand"  when  set- 
ting or  transporting  traps. 

"medicines,"  or  scent  baits. 

These   form   one   of  the   most  important   requisites   of  the 
trapper's   art.      A  trap  baited   simply   with   the    food   of   the 
II 


150  STEEL   TRAPS   AND   THE   ART    OF  TRAPPING. 

required  animal,  may  and  often  will  be  successful,  but  with 
the  addition  of  the  trapper's  ^'medicine"  judicially  applied, 
success  is  almost  a  certainty.  These  scent  baits  are  of  various 
kinds,  some  being  almost  universal  in  their  usefulness,  while 
others  are  attractive  only  to  some  particular  species  of  animal. 
We  give  a  few  of  the  recipes  of  the  most  valued  preparations 
used  by  trappers  throughout  the  land.  The  application  and 
use  of  each  is  fully  described  in  its  proper  place  hereafter. 

CASTOREUM. 

This  substance,  commonly  known  as  "  Barksfone,^''  by  trappers 
and  fur  dealers,  is  obtained  from  the  beaver,  and  is  a  remarkable 
aid  in  the  capture  of  that  animal.  It  is  an  acrid  secretion  of  a 
powerful  musky  odor,  found  in  two  glands  beneath  the  root  of 
the  tail  of  the  beaver.  These  glands  are  about  two  inches 
in  length.  They  are  cut  out  and  the  contents  are  squeezed  into 
a  small  bottle.  When  fresh  the  substance  is  of  a  yellowish-red 
color,  changing  to  a  light-brown  when  dried.  Both  male  and 
female  animals  yield  the  castoreum,  but-  that  of  the  male  is  gen- 
erally considered  the  best.  Castoreum  is  a  commercial  drug,  and 
in  many  beaver  countries  it  is  quite  an  article  of  trade.  There 
are  other  sacs  lying  directly  behind  the  castor  glands  which 
contain  a  strong  oil  of  rancid  sm^ell.  This  should  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  castoreum. 

CASTOREUM  COMPOSITION. 

The  Barkstone  is  used  both  pure  and  in  combination  with 
other  substances,  the  following  prescription  being  much  used  : 
Into  the  contents  of  about  ten  of  the  castor  bags,  mix  two 
ground  nutmegs,  thirty  or  forty  cloves,  also  powdered,  one  drop 
essence  of  peppermint,  and  about  two  thimblefuls  of  ground  cin- 
namon. Into  this  stir  as  much  whisky  as  will  give  the  whole 
the  consistency  of  paste,  after  which  the  preparation  should  be 
bottled  and  kept  carefully  corked.  At  the  expiration  of  a  few 
days  the  odor  increases  ten-fold  in  power  and  is  ready  for  use. 
A  bottle,  if  thus  prepared,  will  retain  its  strength  for  nearly  a  half 
year,  provided  it  is  kept  closely  corked.  A  few  drops  of  either 
the  pure  castoreum  or  the  combination  spread  upon  the  bait  or 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  trap,  as  described  under  the  chatpter 
on  the  Beaver,  will  entice  that  animal  from  a  great  distance. 


FISH    OIL.  151 

MUSK. 

This  substance  is  a  secretion  obtained  from  several  different 
animals,  notably  the  otter  and  muskrat.  The  glands  which  con- 
tain it  are  located  similarly  to  the  castor  glands  of  the  beaver, 
and  the  musk  should  be  discharged  into  a  vial,  as  previously 
described.  The  musk  of  the  female  muskrat  is  said  to  be  the 
most  pov/erful,  and  is  chiefly  used  by  trappers  in  the  capture  of 
that  animal,  the  otter  being  chiefly  attracted  by  its  own 
musk. 

ASSAFCETIDA. 

This  foul  smelling  production  seems  to  have  a  specially 
attractive  fragrance  to  many  animals,  and  for  general  use  is 
much  esteemed  by  trappers.  It  is  a  vegetable  drug  from  Persia 
and  the  East  Indies,  and  is  imported  in  the  form  of  concrete 
juice,  of  a  brown  color. 

OIL  or   RHODIUM. 

This  is  a  vegetable  oil  obtained  from  a  species  of  rose,  and  is 
quite  costly.  Its  power  of  attracting  animals  is  surprising,  and 
it  is  in  very  common  use  among  trappers. 

FISH   OIL. 

This  is  especially  useful  in  the  capture  of  the  majority  of  the 
fur  tribe,  and  particularly  the  water  animals. 

The  oil  may  be  bought  ready  for  use,  or  prepared  with  little 
trouble.  The  common  method  consists  in  cutting  up  fish  of  any 
kind,  especially  eels,  into  small  bits,  putting  them  in  a  bottle,  and 
setting  the  latter  in  the  full  exposure  to  the  sun.  It  should  thus 
be  left  for  about  two  weeks,  at  the  end  of  which  time  a  rancid 
oil  will  have  formed.  A  few  drops  of  this  oil  will  entice  many 
animals  from  surprising  distances,  often  drawing  their  attention 
to  a  bait  which  otherwise  they  might  never  have  scented. 

OIL   OF   SKUNK. 

This,  the  ne  phis  ultra,  or  quintessence  of  diabolical  stencli. 
yields  the  tempting  savor  which  irrisistibly  attracts  many  animals 
to  their  final  doom.  It  is  contained  in  a  pouch  beneath  the 
insertion  of  the  tail  of  the  animal,  and  is  spread  abroad  by  the 


152  STEEL    TRAPS   AND    THE   ART   OF  TRAPPING. 

creature  with  lavish  extravagance  when  circumstances  demand, 
or  we  might  say  when  occasion  permits.  It  may  be  taken  from 
the  animal  and  bottled  as  already  described  in  other  instances, 
chloride  of  lime  being  used  to  eradicate  the  stench  from  the 
hands. 

OIL  OF   AMBER. 

This  substance  is  frequently  referred  to  in  the  following  pages, 
and  is  a  vegetable  product  of  the  amber  gum  of  commerce.  The 
Oil  of  Ambergris  is  also  sometimes  used  by  trappers,  and  is 
likewise  known  as  Amber  Oil.  The  two  are  thus  often  con- 
founded, although  the  former  is  supposed  to  be  most  generally 
used. 

OIL   OF   ANISE. 

This  is  strongly  recommended  by  many  trappers  as  a  most 
excellent  "universal  medicine."  It  is  a  vegetable  product,  and 
is  obtainable  at  any  drug  store. 

SWEET  FENNEL. 

This  plant  is  commonly  cultivated  all  over  the  United  States, 
and  the  seeds  are  often  powdered  and  used  as  a  scent  bait.  The 
Oil  of  Fennel  is  preferable,  however,  and  may  be  had  at  almost 
any  drug  store. 

CUMMIN. 

This  is  another  plant,  somewhat  resembling  the  former,  and, 
like  it,  cultivated  for  its  seeds.  It  has  an  aromatic  taste,  and  its 
strong  pungent  odor  renders  it  of  great  value  to  the  trapper. 
The  seeds  may  be  powdered  and  thus  used,  or  the  oil  of  the 
plant  may  be  easily  procured.     The  latter  is  preferable. 

FENUGREEK. 

Like  the  two  foregoing  this  plant  is  valuable  for  its  seeds, 
which  are  used  for  medicinal  purposes.  The  oil  or  bruised 
seeds  may  be  used. 

LAVENDER. 

This  is  another  aromatic  plant,  the  oil  of  which,  either  pure 
or  diluted  with  alchohol,  is  much  used  in  the  trapper's  art. 


THE   TRAIL.  1 53 

COMPOUND. 

For  ordinary  use,  a  mixture  of  Assafoetida,  Musk,  Oil  of  Anise, 
and  Fish  Oil,  together  with  a  few  drops  of  the  Oil  of  Rhodium, 
is  especially  recommended  by  our  most  skilled  trappers.  This 
preparation  contains  the  various  substances  which  are  known  to 
attract  the  different  fur  bearing  animals,  and  its  use  often 
insures  success  where  any  one  of  the  simple  substances  would  ' 
be  ineffectual. 

THE  TRAIL. 

The  object  of  the  "trail  "  consists  in  offering  a  leading  scent 
which,  when  followed,  will  bring  the  animal  to  the  various  traps, 
and  when  properly  made  will  be  the  means  of  drawing  large 
numbers  of  game  from  all  quarters  and  from  great  distances, 
whereas  without  it  the  traps  might  remain  undiscovered. 

Trails  are  sometimes  made  to  connect  a  line  of  traps,  as  when 
set  along  the  banks  of  streams  for  mink,  etc.,  at  other  times,  as 
in  trapping  the  fox,  for  instance,  they  should  extend  from  the 
trap  on  all  sides,  like  the  spokes  of  a  wheel  from  the  hub,  thus 
covering  considerable  area,  and  rendering  success  more  certain 
than  it  would  be  without  this  precaution. 

The  combination  "  medicine  "  just  described  is  excellent  for 
the  purposes  of  a  trail  for  minks,  otter,  muskrat,  and  many  other 
animals. 

Soak  a  piece  of  meat,  or  piece  of  wood  in  the  preparation,  and 
drag  it  along  the  ground  between  the  traps.  A  dead  fish  smeared 
with  the  fluid  will  also  answer  the  same  purpose.  The  soles  of 
the  boots  may  also  be  smeared  with  the  "  medicine  "  and  the  trail 
thus  accomplished.  Trails  of  various  kinds  are  considered 
under  their  respective  and  appropriate  heads  in  the  chapters  on 
animals,  all  of  which  will  be  found  useful  and  effective. 

HOW    TO    TRAP. 

In  the  following  pages  will  be  found  full  and  ampxe  directions 
for  the  trapping  of  all  our  leading  game,  together  with  detailed 
descriptions  of  peculiar  habits  of  each  species.  The  various 
articles  contain  careful  descriptions,  whereby  the  species  may 
be  readily  recognized,  and,  in  nearly  every  case,  are  accompa- 
nied by  faithful  illustrations.  We  add  also  valuable  directions 
for  the  best  manner  of  removing  the  skin  of  each  animal, 
this  being  a  matter  of  considerable  importance,  as  affecting 
their  pecuniary  value. 


154  STEEL   TRAPS   AND   THE   ART   OF  TRAPPING. 

THE  FOX. 

Foremost  in  the  list  of  animals  noted  for  their  sly  craft,  and 
the  hero  of  a  host  of  fables  and  Avell-authenticated  stories,  in 
which  artful  cunning  gains  the  advantage  over  human  intelli- 
gence, Reynard,  the  fox,  reigns  supreme.  There  is  scarcely  a 
professional  trapper  in  the  land  who  has  not,  in  his  day,  been 
hoodwinked  by  the  wily  strategy  of  this  sly  creature,  whose 
extreme  cunning  renders  him  the  most  difficult  of  all  animals 
to  trap.  The  fox  belongs  to  the  Dog  family,  and  there  are 
six  varieties  inhabiting  the  United  States.  The  red  species  is 
the  most  common  and  is  too  well-known  to  need  a  description 
here.  The  Cross  Fox  considerably  resembles  the  above,  only 
being  much  darker  in  color,  the  red  hair  being  thickly  speckled 
with  black.  This  species  varies  considerably  in  color  in  differ- 
ent individuals,  often  much  resembling  the  red  variety,  and 
again  approaching  nearer  in  color  to  the  Black  or  Silver  Fox. 
This  variation,  together  with  the  name  of  the  animial,  has  given 
rise  among  trappers  to  the  wide-spread  belief  of  tlie  animal 
being  a  cross  between  the  two  species  which  it  so  nearly  re- 
sembles. It  seems  to  be  a  permanent  variety,  however,  the 
term  cross  being  applied,  we  believe,  on  account  of  a  dark 
marking  on  the  back,  between  the  shoulders  of  the  animal, 
suggestive  of  that  title.  The  Silver  or  Black  Fox  is  the  most 
beautiful  and  most  rare  of  the  genus,  and  yields  the  most 
valuable  fur  produced  in  this  country.  Its  color  is  black,  with 
the  exception  of  the  tip  of  the  tail,  which  is  white.  The 
Prairie  Fox  is  the  largest  of  the  species.  It  inhabits  the  West- 
ern Prairies,  and  in  color  resembles  the  common  red  variety, 
only  being  a  trifle  yellower. 

The  Kit,  or  Swift  Fox,  is  smaller  than  the  Red,  and  abounds 
in  the  Western  States. 

The  Gray  Fox  is  a  Southern  variety,  and  is  very  beautiful. 
It  is  less  daring  and  cunning  tlian  the  Common  Fox,  and  seldom 
approaches  a  farm-yard,  where  it  is  in  close  proximity  to  a 
dweUing. 

The  general  habits  and  characteristics  of  all  the  foxes  are 
similar.  For  natural  cunning  they  take  the  lead  of  all  other 
animals.  They  are  all  built  for  speed,  and  their  senses  of 
smell  and  hearing  are  acutely  developed.  Their  food  consists 
of  wild  fowl  of  all  kinds,  rabbits,  squirrels,  birds  and  their  eggs, 
together  with  many  kinds  of  ripe  fruits,  *'  sour  grapes  "  not 
included.     They  live   in   burrov/s,   often  usurped,   or  crevices 


THE    FOX.  155 

between  rocks  ;  and  their  young,  from  three  to  nine  in  number, 
are  brought  forth  in  March. 

We  are  strongly  tempted  to  narrate  a  few  remarkable  in- 
stances of  the  animal's  cunning,  but  we  forbear  for  want  of 
space.  Our  reader  must  take  it  for  granted  that  when  he 
attempts  to  trap  a  fox,  he  will  be  likely  to  find  more  than  his 
match  in  the  superior  craftiness  of  that  animal.  If  the  trap  is 
overturned  and  the  bait  gone,  or  if  repeatedly  sprung  and  found 
empty,  he  must  not  be  surprised  or  discouraged,  for  he  is  experi- 
encing only  what  all  other  trappers  have  experienced  before 
him.  There  are  instances  on  record  where  this  knowing 
creature  has  sprung  the  trap  by  dropping  a  stick  upon  the  pan, 
afterwards  removing  the  suspended  bait  to  enjoy  it  at  his 
leisure.  His  movements  are  as  lithe  and  subtile  as  those  of  a 
snake,  and  when  "  cornered "  there  is  no  telling  what  caper 
that  cunning  instinct  and  subtlety  of  body  will  not  lead  him  to  p  er- 
form.  When  pursued  by  hounds  he  has  been  known  to  lead 
them  a  long  chase  at  full  speed  up  to  the  crest  of  a  hill :  here 
he  leaps  a  shrub,  swiftly  as  an  arrow,  and  landing  on  the 
ground  on  the  opposite  declivity  quickly  returns  beneath  the 
brushwood  and  crouches  down  closely  upon  the  ground. 
Presently  the  hounds  come  along  in  full  cry,  and  blazing  scent 
they  dart  over  the  shrub  in  full  pursuit,  dash  down  the  hillside, 
never  stopping  until  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill  they  find  they  are 
off  the  trail.  As  soon  as  the  hounds  are  passed,  sly  Reynard 
cautiously  takes  to  his  legs  :  creeping  adroitly  back  over  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  he  runs  for  a  considerable  distance  on  his 
back  trail,  and  at  last,  after  taking  a  series  of  long  jumps  there- 
from returns  to  his  covert  at  leisure.  Page  after  page  might 
be  filled  to  the  glory  of  this  creature's  cunning,  but  enough  has 
been  said  to  give  the  young  trapper  an  insight  into  the  charac- 
ter of  the  animal  he  hopes  to  victimize,  and  prepare  him  for  a 
trial  of  skill  which,  without  this  knowledge,  would  be  a  most 
one-sided  affair. 

We  would  not  advise  our  young  amateur  to  calculate  very 
confidently  on  securing  a  fox  at  the  first  attempt,  but  we  can 
truthfully  vouch  that  if  the  creature  can  be  caught  at  all,  it  can 
be  done  by  following  the  directions  we  now  give. 

One  of  the  most  essential  things  in  the  trapping  of  this,  as 
well  as  nearly  all  animals,  is  that  the  trap  should  be  perfectly 
clean  and  free  fro7n  rust.  The  steel  trap  No.  2,  page  141 
is  the  best  for  animals  of  the  size  of  the  Fox.  The  trap  should 
be  washed  in  weak  lye,  being  afterwards  well  greased  and 
finally  smoked  over  burning  hen's  feathers. 


156  STEEL   TRAPS    AND    THE   ART    OF  TRAPPING. 

All  this  and  even  more  precaution  is  necessary.     No  matter 

how  strongly  scented  the  trap  may  be,  with  the  smoke,  or  other 

substances,  a  mere  touch  of  the  bare  hand  will  leave  a  hw7ian 

scent  which  the  fox  perceives  as  soon  as  the  other,  and  this  is 

'  enough  to  deaden  his  enthusiasm  over  the  most  tempting  bait. 

On  this  account,  it  is  necessary  always  to  handle  the  trap 
with  buckskin  gloves,  never  allowing  the  bare  hand  to  come  in 
contact  with  it,  on  any  account,  after  once  prepared  for  setting. 

Before  arranging  the  trap  for  its  work,  it  is  necessary  to  con^ 
struct  what  is  called  a  "  bed."  There  are  several  methods  of 
doing  this  ;  but  from  all  we  can  learn  from  the  most  experienced 
trappers,  the  following  is  the  most  successful.  The  bed  should 
be  made  on  flat  ground,  using  any  of  the  follov/ing  substances  : 
Buckwheat  chaff,  which  is  the  best,  oat,  wheat,  or  hay  chaff,  or 
in  lieu  of  these,  moss  or  wood  ashes.  Let  the  bed  be  three  feet  in 
diameter,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  in  depth.  To  insure  success  it  is 
the  best  plan  to  bait  the  bed  itself  for  several  days  with  scraps 
of  beef  or  cheese  strewn  upon,  and  near  it.  If  the  fox  once 
visits  the  place,  discovers  the  tempting  morsels  and  enjoys  a  good 
meal  unmolested,  he  will  be  sure  to  revisit  the  spot  so  long  as  he 
finds  a  ^'  free  lunch  "  awaiting  him.  When  he  is  found  to  come  reg- 
ularly and  take  the  bait,  he  is  as  good  as  caught,  provided  our  in- 
structions are  carefully  followed.  Take  the  trap,  previously  prepar- 
ed as  already  described,  chain  it  securely  to  a  small  log  of  wood 
about  two  feet  long.  Dig  a  hole  in  the  earth  in  the  centre  of 
the  bed,  large  enough  to  receive  the  trap,  with  its  log,  and  chain. 
Set  the  traps,  supporting  the  pan  by  pushing  some  of  the  chaff 
beneath  it.  Now  lay  a  piece  of  paper  over  the  pan  and  sprinkle 
the  chaff  over  it  evenly  and  smoothly,  until  every  trace  of  the 
trap  and  its  appendages  is  obliterated.  Endeavor  to  make  the 
bed  look  as  it  has  previously  done,  and  bait  it  with  the  same 
materials.  Avoid  treading  much  about  the  bed  and  step  in  the 
same  tracks  as  far  as  possible.  Touch  nothing  with  the  naked 
hands.  Cover  up  all  the  footprints  as  much  as  possible,  and 
leave  the  trap  to  take  care  of  itself  and  any  intruder.  If  our 
directions  have  been  accurately  followed,  and  due  care  has  been 
exercised  on  the  part  of  the  young  trapper,  there  is  every 
probability  that  the  next  morning  will  reward  him  with  his  fox. 
But  if  a  day  or  two  elapse  without  success^  it  is  well  to  resort  to 
the  "  scent  baits"  described  on  page  149.  Take  the  trap  out 
of  the  bed,  and  with  a  feather  smear  it  with  melted  beeswax, 
or  rub  it  with  a  little  Oil  of  Rhodium,  Assafoetida,  or  Musk. 
Oil  of  Amber,  and  Lavender  water  are  also  used  for  the  same 


THE     FOX.  157 

purpose  by  many  professional  trappers.  'Ihese  are  not  al- 
ways necessary  but  are  often  used  as  a  last  resort,  and  will 
most  always  insure  success. 

Another  method  of  baiting  is  shown  in  our  page  illustration 
opposite,  and  consists  in  suspending  the  bait  by  a  stick  in  such 
a  position  that  the  fox  will  be  obliged  to  step  upon  the  trap 
in  order  to  reach  it.  The  bed  should  be  baited  in  this  way 
several  times  before  the  trap  is  set.  This  method  is  very  com- 
monly employed. 

Another  still,  is  to  bury  the  dead  body  of  a  rabbit  or  bird 
in  loose  earth,  covering  the  whole  with  chaff.  Sprinkle  a  few 
drops  of  Musk,  or  Oil  of  Amber  over  the  bed.  After  the  fox 
has  taken  the  bait,  the  place  should  be  rebaited  and  the  trap  in- 
serted in  the  mound  and  covered  with  the  chaff,  being  scented 
as  before. 

Some  trappers  employ  the  followingmethod  with  good  results  : 
The  trap  is  set,  in  a  spring  or  at  the  edge  of  a  small  shallow  brook 
and  attached  by  a  chain  to  a  stake  in  the  bank,  the  chain  being 
under  water.  There  should  be  only  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
of  water  over  the  trap,  and  its  distance  from  the  shore  should 
be  about  a  foot  and  a  half,  or  even  less.  In  order  to  induce  the 
fox  to  place  his  foot  in  the  trap  it  is  necessary  to  cut  a  sod  of 
grass,  just  the  size  of  the  inside  of  the  jaws  of  the  trap,  and  place 
it  over  the  pan,  so  that  it  will  j^roject  above  the  water  and  offer 
a  tempting  foot  rest  for  the  animal  while  he  reaches  for  the 
bait  which  rests  in  the  water  just  beyond.  To  accomplish  this 
device  without  springing  the  trap  by  the  weight  of  the  sod,  it  is 
necessary  to  brace  up  the  pan  from  beneath  with  a  small  per- 
pendicular stick,  sufficiently  to  neutralize  the  pressure  from 
above.  The  bait  may  be  a  dead  rabbit  or  bird  thrown  on  the 
water  outside  of  the  trap  and  about  a  foot  from  it,  being  secured 
by  a  string  and  peg.  If  the  fox  spies  the  bait  he  will  be  almost 
sure  to  step  upon  the  sod  to  reach  it,  and  thus  get  caught. 

If  none  of  these  methods  are  successful,  the  young  trapper 
may  at  least  content  himself  with  the  idea  that  the  particular 
fox  he  is  after  is  an  old  fellow  and  is  "  not  to  be  caught  with 
chaff"  or  any  thing  else, — for  if  these  devices  will  not  secure 
him  nothing  will.  If  he  is  a  young  and  comparatively  unso- 
phisticated specimen,  he  will  fall  an  easy  victim  to  any  of  the 
foregoing  stratagems. 

Athough  steel  traps  are  generally  used  in  the  capture  of  foxes, 
A  cleverly  constructed  and  baited  dead-fall  such  as  is  described 
on  page  113.  will  often  do  capital  service  in  that  direction.      By 


158  STEEL   TRAPS   AND   THE   ART   OF   TRAPPING. 

arranging  and  baiting  the  trap  as  therein  described,  even  a  fox 
is  likely  to  beco?ne  its  prey. 

To  skin  the  fox  the  pelt  should  be  first  ripped  down  each 
hind  leg  to  the  vent.  The  skin  being  cut  loose  around  this 
point,  the  bone  of  the  tail  should  next  be  removed.  This 
may  be  done  by  holding  a  split  stick  tightly  over  the  bone  after 
which  the  latter  may  be  easily  pulled  out  of  the  skiji. 

The  hide  should  then  be  drawn  back,  and  carefully  removed, 
v/orking  with  caution  around  the  legs,  and  particularly  so  about 
the  eyes,  ears,  and  lips  when  these  points  are  reached.  The  skin 
should  be  stretched  as  described  on  page  273. 

THE  WOLF. 

The  United  States  are  blessed  with  several  species  of  this  ani- 
mal. The  Grey  Wolf,  which  is  the  largest,  and  the  smaller,  Prairie 
Wolf  or  Coyote,  being  the  most  commonly  known.  There  are  also 
the  White  Wolf,  Black  Wolf  and  the  Texan  or  Red  Wolf.  In 
outward  form  they  all  bear  a  considerable  resemblance  to  each 
other,  and  their  habits  are  generally  similar  in  the  different  va- 
rieties. 

Wolves  are  fierce  and  dangerous  animals,  and  are  very 
powerful  of  limb  and  fleet  of  foot.  They  are  extremely  cow- 
ardly in  character,  and  will  seldom  attack  man  or  animal  except 
when  by  their  greater  numbers  they  would  be  sure  of  victory. 
Wolves  are  found  in  almost  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  Moun- 
tain and  plain,  field,  jungle  and  prairie  are  alike  infested  with 
them,  and  they  hunt  in  united  bands,  feeding  upon  almost  any 
animal  which  by  their  combined  attacks  they  can  overpower. 

Their  inroads  upon  herds  and  sheep  folds  are  sometimes  hor- 
rifying, and  a  single  wolf  has  been  known  to  kill  as  many  as 
forty  sheep  in  a  single  night,  seemingly  from  mere  blood-thirsty 
desire. 

In  the  early  colonization  of  America,  wolves  ran  wild  over  the 
country  in  immense  numbers,  and  were  a  source  of  great 
danger;  but  now,  owing  to  wide-spread  civiHzation,  they  have 
disappeared  from  the  more  settled  localities  and  are  chiefly 
found  in  Western  wilds  and  prairie  lands. 

The  Grey  Wolf  is  the  largest  and  most  formidable  represen- 
tative of  the  Dog  tribe  on  this  continent.  Its  general  appear- 
ance is  truthfully  given  in  our  drawing.  Its  length,  exclusive  of 
the  tail,  is  about  four  feet,  the  length  of  the  tail  being  about  a 
foot  and  a  half.     Its  color  varies  from  yellowish  grey  to  almost 


THE    WOLF. 


159 


white  in  the  northern  countries,  in  which  latitude  the  animal  is 
sometimes  found  of  an  enormous  size,  measuring  nearly  seven 
feet  in  length.  The  fur  is  coarse  and  shaggy  about  the  neck  and 
haunches,  and  the  tail  is  bushy.  They  abound  in  the  region 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  northward,  and  travel  in  packs 
of  hundreds  in  search  of  prey.  Bisons,  wild  horses,  deer  and 
even  bears  fall  victims  to  their  united  fierceness,  and  human 
beings,  too,  often  fall  a  prey  to  their  ferocious  attacks. 

The  Coyote,  or  Common  Prairie  Wolf,  also  known  as  the  Bur- 
rowing Wolf,  as  its  name  implies  inhabits  the  Western  plains 
and  prairies.  They  are  much  smaller  than  the  Grey  Wolf,  and 
not  so  dangerous.     They  travel  in  bands  and . unitedly  attack 


W^'^'^mi:'  "^'^ 


whatever  animal  they  desire  to  kill.  Their  homes  are  made  in 
burrows  which  they  excavate  in  the  ground.  The  Texan  Wolf 
inhabits  the  latitude  of  Texas  and  southward.  It  is  of  a 
tawny  red  color  and  nearly  as  large  as  the  grey  species,  possess- 
ing the  same  savage  nature. 

In  April  or  May  the  female  wolf  retires  to  her  burrow  or  den, 
and  her  young,  from  six  to  ten  in  number,  are  brought  forth. 

The  wolf  is  almost  as  sly  and  cunning  as  the  fox,  and  the 
same  caution  is  required  in  trapping  the  animal.  They  are  ex- 
tremely keen  scented,  and  the  mere  touch  of  a  human  hand  on 
the  trap  is  often  enough  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  capture. 
A  mere  footprint,  or  the  scent  of  tobacco  juice,  they  look  upon 


l6o  STEEL   TRAPS   AND   THE   ART   OF   TRAPPING. 

with  great  suspicion,  and  the  presence  of  either  will  often  pre- 
vent success. 

The  same  directions  given  in  regard  to  trapping  the  fox  are 
equally  adapted  for  the  wolf.  The  trap  (size  No.  4,  page  141) 
should  be  smoked  or  smeared  with  beeswax  or  blood,  and  set  in 
a  bed  of  ashes  or  other  material  as  therein  described,  covering 
with  moss,  chaff,  leaves  or  some  other  light  substance.  The 
clog  should  be  fully  twice  as  heavy  as  that  used  for  the  fox. 
Some  trappers  rub  the  traps  with  "  brake  leaves,"  sweet  fern,  or 
even  skunk's  cabbage.  Gloves  should  always  be  worn  in  hand- 
ling the  traps,  and  all  tracks  should  be  obhterated  as  much  as 
if  a  fox  were  the  object  sought  to  be  secured. 

A  common  way  of  securing  the  wolf  consists  in  setting  the 
trap  in  a  spring  or  puddle  of  water,  throwing  the  dead  body  of 
some  large  animal  in  the  water  beyond  the  trap  in  such  a  position 
that  the  wolf  will  be  obliged  to  tread  upon  the  trap,  in  order  to 
reach  the  bait.  This  method  is  described  both  under  the  head 
of  the  Fox  and  the  Bear. 

Another  plan  is  to  fasten  the  bait  between  two  trees  which 
are  very  close  together,  setting  a  trap  on  each  side  and  care- 
fully concealing  them  as  already  directed,  and  securing  each  to 
a  clog  of  about  twenty  pounds  in  weight.  The  enclosure  de- 
scribed on  page  144  is  also  successful. 

There  are  various  scent  or  trail  baits  used  in  trapping  the 
wolf.  Oil  of  Assafoetida  is  by  many  trappers  considered  the 
best,  but  Oil  of  Rhodium,  powdered  fennel,  fenugreek  and 
Cummin  Oil  are  also  much  used.  It  is  well  to  smear  a  little  of 
the  first  mentioned  oil  near  the  traps,  using  anyone  of  the  other 
substances,  or  indeed  a  mixture  of  them  all,  for  the  trail.  This 
may  be  made  by  smearing  the  preparation  on  the  sole  of  the 
boots  and  walking  in  the  direction  of  the  traps,  or  by  dragging 
from  one  trap  to  another  a  piece  of  meat  scented  with  the  sub 
stance,  as  described  under  the  head  of  Mink. 

The  wolf  is  an  adept  at  feigning  death,  playing  "'possum" 
with  a  skill  which  would  do  credit  to  that  veritable  animal  itself. 

A  large  dead-fall,  constructed  of  logs,  page  17,  when 
skilfully  scented  and  baited,  will  often  allure  a  wolf  into  its 
clutches,  and  a  very  strong  twitch-up,  with  a  noose  formed  of 
heavy  wire,  or  a  strip  of  stout  calf  hide,  will  successfully  cap- 
ture the  crafty  creature. 

^  In  skinning  the  wolf  the  hide  may  be  removed  either  by  first 
ripping  up  the  belly,  or  in  a  circular  piece,  as  described  in  con- 
nection with  the  fox,  both   methods  being  much   used.     The 


THE    PUMA.  l6"l 

board  and  hoop  stretchers  used  in  preparing  the  skin  are  de- 
scribed on  pages  273  and  275. 

THE    PUMA. 

The  puma,  commonly  known  also  as  the  panther  or  cougar,  is 
the  largest  American  representative  of  the  Cat  tribe,  and  for  this 
reason  is  often  dignified  by  the  name  of  the  "American 
Lion,'^  It  is  found  more  or  less  abundantly  throughout  the 
United  States  ;  and  although  not  generally  considered  a  danger- 
ous foe  to  mankind,  it  has  often  been  known  in  the  wild  dis- 
tricts to  steal  upon  the  traveller  unawares,  and  in  many  instan- 
ces human  beings  have  fallen  a  prey  to  the  powerful  claws  and 
teeth  of  this  powerful  animal. 

The  life  of  the  puma  is  mostly  in  the  trees.  Crouching  upon 
the  branches  it  watches  for,  or  steals,  cat-like,  upon  its  prey. 
Should  a  solitary  animal  pass  within  reach,  the  puma  will  not 
hesitate  in  pouncing  upon  the  unfortunate  creature;  but  if  a 
herd  of  animals,  or  party  of  men,  should  be  travelling  together, 
the  caution  of  the  brute  asserts  itself,  and  he  will  often  dog  their 
footsteps  for  a  great  distance,  in  hopes  of  securing  a  straggler. 
Birds  are  struck  down  by  a  single  blow  of  the  puma's  ready 
paw,  and  so  quick  are  his  movements  that  even  though  a  bird 
has  risen  on  the  wing,  he  can  often  make  one  of  his  wonderful 
bounds,  and  with  a  light,  quick  stroke,  arrest  the  winged  prey 
before  it  has  time  to  soar  beyond  reach.  The  puma  is  a  good 
angler.  Sitting  by  the  water's  edge  he  watches  for  his  victims, 
and  no  sooner  does  an  unfortunate  fish  swim  within  reach,  than 
the  nimble  paw  is  outstretched,  and  it  is  swept  out  of  the  water 
on  dry  land,  and  eagerly  devoured. 

A  puma  has  been  known  to  follow  the  track  of  travellers  for 
days  together,  only  daring  to  show  itself  at  rare  intervals,  and 
never  endeavoring  to  make  an  attack  except  through  stealth.  The 
animal  will  often  approach  cautiously  upon  a  traveller  until  suf- 
ficiently near  to  make  its  fatal  spring  ;  but  if  the  pursued  party 
suddenly  turn  round  and  face  the  crawling  creature,  the  beast 
becomes  discomfited  at  once,  and  will  retreat  from  the  gaze, 
which  seems  to  it  a  positive  terror.  So  long  as  a  puma  can  be 
kept  in  sight,  no  danger  need  be  feared  from  the  animal,  but  it 
will  improve  every  opportunity  of  springing  unobservedly  upon 
a  heedless  passer  by.  The  total  length  of  the  puma  is  six  feet 
and  a  half,  of  which  the  tail  occupies  a  little  over  two  feet.  Its 
color  is  of  a  uniform  light  tawny  tint,  fading  into  light  grey  on 


l63 


STEEL  TRAPS  AND  THE  ART  OF  TRAPPING.' 


the  under  parts,  and  the  tip  of  the  tail  is  black.  The  puma  is 
one  of  the  few  members  of  the  Cat  tribe,  which  are  without  the 
usual  spots  or  stripes  so  observable  in  the  tiger  and  leopard. 
The  lion  has  the  same  uniformity  of  color,  and  it  is  perhaps  part- 
ly on  that  account  that  the  panther  is  so  often  known  as  the 
American  Hon.  In  infancy  the  young  pumas  possess  decided 
tiger-like  markings,  and  leopard-like  spots,  but  these  disappear 
altogether  as  the  animal  increases  in  size.     The  cougar  has 


learned  by  experience  a  wholesom.e  fear  of  man,  and  as  civiliza- 
tion has  extended  throughout  our  country,  the  animals  have  been 
forced  to  retire  from  the  neighborhood  of  human  habitations 
and  hide  themselves  in  thick,  uncultivated  forest  lands. 

Sometimes,  however,  the  animal,  urged  by  fierce  hunger,  will 
venture  on  a  marauding  expedition  for  several  miles,  and  al- 
though not  an  object  of  personal  dread  to  the  inhabitants,  he 
often  becomes  a  pestilent  neighbor  to  the  farmer,  committing 
great  ravages  among  his  flocks  and  herds,  and  making  sad  havoc 
in  his  poultry  yard.  It  is  not  the  fortune  of  every  puma,  how- 
ever, to  reside  in  the  neighborhood  of  such  easy  prey  as  pigs, 
sheep  and  poultry,  and  the  greater  number  of  these  animals  are 


THE    PUMA.  Ib3 

forced  to  depend  for  their  subsistence  on  their  own  success  in 
chasing  or  surprising  the  various  animals  on  v/hich  they  feed. 

When  a  puma  is  treed  by  hunters,  it  is  said  to  show  gre.it 
skill  in  selecting  a  spot  wherein  it  shall  be  best  concealed  from 
the  gazers  below,  and  will  even  draw  the  neighboring  branches 
about  its  bodv  to  hide  itself  from  the  aim  of  the  hunter's  rifle. 
While  thus  lying  upon  the  branches  the  beast  is  almost  invisi- 
ble from  below,  as  its  fur,  when  seen,  harmonizes  so  well  with  the 
the  bark  which  covers  the  boughs,  that  the  one  can  scarcely  be 
distinguished  from  the  other. 

The  puma  loves  to  hide  in  the  branches  of  trees,  and  from 
this  eminence  to  launch  itself  upon  the  doomed  animal  that  may 
pass  within  its  reach.  It  may,  therefore,  be  easily  imagined 
how  treacherous  a  foe  the  creature  may  be  when  ranging  at  will 
among  the  countless  trees  and  jungles  of  our  American  forests. 

Although  so  stealthy  and  sly  a  creature  the  cougar  possesses 
very  little  cunning  and  is  easily  trapped.  The  Gun  trap,  page  20, 
is  commonly  and  successfully  employed  in  South  America  in  the 
capture  of  the  jaguar,  as  our  title  illustration,  page  15,  repre- 
sents, and  it  may  also  be  used  with  the  same  success  in  trap- 
ping the  puma.  The  Bow  trap,  page  23,  and  the  dead-fall 
described  in  the  early  part  of  the  book,  will  all  be  found  to  work 
admirably  in  the  destruction  of  this  treacherous  beast. 

The  animal  may  be  entrapped  alive,  should  any  of  our  young 
trappers  dare  to  try  the  experiment. 

There  are  two  ways  of  accomplishing  this.  The  first  is  by 
the  aid  of  a  huge  coop  of  logs,  as  described  on  page  30  or  33, 
and  the  other  by  the  Pit-fall,  as  exemplified  on  page  31  .  Huge 
twitch-ups  may  also  be  constructed,  using  very  strong  wire. 
The  bait  may  consist  of  a  fowl,  sheep's  head,  or  the  heart  of 
any  animal.  Fresh  meat  of  any  kind  will  answer  the  purpose, 
and  in  the  case  of  the  Pit-fall  a  live  fowl  is  preferable  to  a  dead 
one  as  it  will  attract  the  puma  by  its  motions,  or  by  its  cackling, 
and  thus  induce  him  to  spring  upon  his  prey,  which  will  pre- 
cipitate him  to  the  bottom  of  the  pit  and  thus  effect  his  capture. 

They  are  commonly  taken  with  the  steel  trap.  The  puma 
seldom  leaves  the  vicinity  of  the  carcass  of  an  animal  it  has  kill- 
ed  until  it  is  all  devoured.  When  such  a  carcass  can  be  found 
the  capture  of  the  beast  is  easily  effected.  Set  the  trap,  size  No. 
5,  page  143,  near  the  remains,  and  cover  the  carcass  with  leaves. 
The  next  visit  of  the  animal  will  find  him  more  attached  to  the  . 
place  than  ever, — so  much  so  that  he  will  be  unable  to  ^'  teaf 
himself  away. '' 


164  STEEL   TRAPS   AND   THE   ART   OF   TRAPPING. 

The  skin  of  the  puma  is  properly  removed  by  first  cutting  up 
the  belly  as  described  under  the  Beaver,  using  great  care  about 
the  head  and  face.     Use  the  hoop  stretcher,  page 

THE   CANADIAN   LYNX. 

The  lynx  represents  another  of  the  Cat  tribe,  and  as  its  name 
impHes  is  a  native  of  the  regions  north  of  the  United  States, 
although  sometimes  found  in  upper  Maine  and  on  the  lower 
borders  of  the  great  lakes.  It  is  commonly  known  throughout 
Canada  as  the  Peshoo,  or  "  Le  Chat.'' 

Our  illustration  is  a  truthful  representation  of  the  animal.  Its 
total  length  exceeds  three  feet,  and  its  tail  is  a  mere  stub.  The 
fur  is  thick,  and  the  hairs  are  long,  the  general  color  being  grey, 
sprinkled  with  black.  The  legs  are  generally  darker  than  the 
body,  and  the  ears  are  often  edged  with  white.  The  limbs  and 
muscles  are  very  powerful,  the  paws  are  very  large  for  the  size 
of  the  animal,  and  are  furnished  with  strong  white  claws,,  which 
are  imbedded  in  the  fur  of  the  feet  when  not  in  use,  they  are 
shown  in  our  illustration.  The  ears  of  the  lynx  form  a  distinct 
feature,  by  which  the  animal  could  be  easily  identified ;  they  are 
long  and  tipped  with  stiff  projecting  hairs,  giving  the  creature  a 
Very  odd  appearance. 

The  peshoo  can  not  be  said  to  be  a  very  dangerous  animal, 
unless  it  is  attacked,  when  it  becomes  a  most  ferocious  antag- 
onist. The  writer  knew  of  a  gentleman  who  was  pounced  upon 
and  very  nearly  killed  by  (5ne  of  these  infuriated  creatures,  and 
there  are  many  like  instances  on  record. 

The  principal  food  of  the  lynx  consists  of  the  smaller  quad- 
rupeds, the  American  hare  being  its  favorite  article  of  diet.  It 
is  a  good  swimmer,  and  a  most  agile  climber,  chasing  its  prey 
among  the  branches  with  great  stealth  and  dexterity.  Like  the 
wolf,  fox,  and  many  other  flesh  eating-animals,  the  lynx  does 
not  content  itself  with  the  creatures  which  fall  by  the  stroke  of 
its  own  talons,  or  the  grip  of  its  own  teeth,  but  will  follow  the 
trail  of  the  puma,  in  its  nocturnal  quest  after  prey,  and  thankfully 
partake  of  the  feast  which  remains  after  its  predecessor  has  sat- 
isfied its  appetite. 

While  running  at  full  speed,  the  lynx  presents  a  most 
ludicrous  appearance,  owing  to  its  peculiar  manner  of  leaping. 
It  progresses  in  successive  bounds,  with  its  back  slightly  arched, 
aud  all  the  feet  striking  the  ground  nearly  at  the  same  instant. 
Powerful  as  the  animal  is,  it  is  easily  killed  by  a  blow  on  the 


THE   CANADA    LYNX. 


i6s 


back,  a  slight  stick  being  a  sufficient  weapon  wherewith  to  destroy 
the  creature.  For  this  reason  the  "  Dead-fall  "  is  particularly 
adapted  for  its  capture,  and  is  very  successful,  as  the  animal 
possesses  very  little  cunning,  and  will  enter  an  enclosure  of  any 


kind  widicut  the  slightest  compunction,  when  a  tempting  bait  is 
in  view.  The  dead-fail  should  of  course  be  constructed  on  a 
large  scale,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the  enclosure  deep,  and 
the  bait  as  far  back  as  will  necessitate  the  animal  being  well  under 
the  suspended  log  in  order  to  reach  it.  The  bait  may  consist 
of  a  dead  quadruped  or  of  fresh  meat  of  any  kind. 

The  Gun  trap,  page    20,  and  the  Bow  trap,  page    23,  will 
also  be  found  efficient,  and  a  very  powerful  twitch-up,  constructed 
from  a  stout  pole  and  extra  strong  wire  will  also  serve  to  good 
purpose.     The  lynx  is  not  so  prolific  as  many  of  the  feline  tribe, 
the  number  of  its  young  seldom  exceeding  two,  and  this  only 
once  a  year.     The  fur  of  the  animal  is  valuable  for  the  purposes 
to  which  the  feline  skin  is  generally  adapted,  and  commands  a 
fair  price  in  the  market.     Those  who  hunt  or  trap  the  lynx  will 
do  well  to  choose  the  winter  months  for  the  time  of  their  oper- 
ations, as  during  the  cold  season  the  animal  possesses  a  thicker 
ind  warmer  fur  than  it  offers  in  the  summer  months. 
When  the   steel  trap  is  used,  it  should  be  of  size  No.  4,  page 
12 


1 65  STEEL    TRAPS   AND   THE   ART   OF   TRAPPING. 

141,  set  at  the  opening  of  a  pen  of  stakes,  the  bait  being  placed 
at  the  back  of  the  enclosure  in  such  a  position,  as  that  the  animal 
will  be  obliged  to  step  upon  the  pan  of  the  trap  in  order  to  reach 
it.  Any  of  the  devices  described  under  "  Hints  on  Baiting  " 
will  be  found  successful. 

The  skin  of  the  animal  maybe  removed  as  directed  in  the  case 
of  the  fox,  being  drawn  off  the  body  whole,  or  it  may  be  removed 
after  the  manner  of  the  beaver,  and  similarly  stretched. 

THE   WILD   CAT. 

This  animal  is  one  of  the  most  wide-spread  species  of  the  Cat 
tribe,  being  found  not  only  in  America,  but  throughout  nearly 
the  whole  of  Europe  as  well  as  in  Northern  Asia.  In  many 
parts  of  the  United  States,  where  the  wild  cat  was  wont  to 
flourish,  it  has  become  exterminated,  owing  to  civilization  and 
the  destruction  of  forest  lands. 

Many  naturalists  are  of  the  opinion  that  the  wild  cat  is  the 
original  progenitor  of  our  domestic  cat,  but  there  is  much  differ- 
ence of  opinion  in  regard  to  the  subject.  Although  they  bear 
great  resemblance  to  each  other,  there  are  several  points  of  dis- 
tinction between  the  two;  one  of  the  most  decfded  differences 
being  in  the  comparative  length  of  the  tails.  The  tail  of  the 
wild  cat  is  little  more  than  half  the  length  of  that  of  the  domes- 
tic cat,  and  much  more  bushy. 

The  color  of  the  wild  animal  is  much  more  uniform  than  in 
the  great  raft  of  "domestic"  mongrel  specimens  which  make 
night  hideous  with  their  discordant  yowls,  although  we  some- 
times see  a  high  bred  individual  which,  if  his  tail  was  cut  off  at 
half  its  length,  might  easily  pass  as  an  example  of  the  wild  va- 
riety. 

The  ground  tint  of  the  fur  in  the  wild  cat  is  yellowish 
grey,  diversified  with  dark  streaks  over  the  body  and  limbs, 
much  after  the  appearance  of  the  so-called  "  tiger  cat."  A  row 
of  dark  streaks  and  spots  extends  along  the  spine,  and  the  tail 
is  thick,  short  and  bushy,  tipped  with  black  and  encircled  with  a 
number  of  rings  of  a  dark  hue.  In  some  individuals  the  mark- 
ings are  less  distinct,  and  they  are  sometimes  altogether  want- 
ing, but  in  the  typical  wild  cat  they  are  quite  prominent.  The 
fur  is  rather  long  and  thick,  particularly  so  during  the  winter 
season,  and  always  in  the  colder  northern  regions. 

The  amount  of  havoc  which  these  creatures  often  occasion  is 
surprising,  and  their  nocturnal   inroads,  in  poultry  yards  and 


WILD    CAT. 


167 


sheep  folds,  render  them  most  hated  pests  to  farmers  in  the 
countries  where  these  animals  abound.  They  seem  to  have  a  spe- 
cial appetite  for  the  heads  of  fowls,  and  will  often  decapitate  a  half 
ciozen  in  a  single  night,  leaving  the  bodies  in  otherwise  good  con- 
dition to  tell  the  story  of  their  midnight  murders.  The  home  of 
the  wild  cat  is  made  in  some  cleft  of  rock,  or  in  the  hollow  of  some 
aged  tree,  from  which  the  creature  issues  in  the  dark  hours  and 
starts  upon  its  marauding  excursions.  Its  family  numbers  from 
three  to  six,  and  the  female  parent  is  smaller  than  the  male,  the 
total  length  of  the  latter  being  three  feet. 


Inhabiting  the  most  lonely  and  inaccessible  ranges  of  rock 
and  mountain,  the  wild  cat  is  seldom  seen  during  the  daytime. 
At  night,  like  its  domestic  relative,  he  prowls  far  and  wide, 
walking  with  the  same  stealthy  step  and  hunting  his  game  in  the 
same  tiger-like  manner.  He  is  by  no  means  a  difficult  animal 
to  trap,  being  easily  deceived  and  taking  a  bait  without  any  hesi- 
tation. The  wild  cat  haunts  the  shores  of  lakes  and  rivers, 
and  it  is  here  that  the  traps  may  be  set  for  them.  Having 
caught  and  killed  one  of  the  colony,  the  rest  of  them  can  be 
easily  taken  if  the  body  of  the  dead  victim  be  left  near  their 
hunting  ground  and  surrounded  with  the  traps  carefully  set  and 
concealed  beneath  leaves  moss  or  the  like.      Every  wild  cat 


1 68  STEEL    TRAPS    AND    THE   ART    OF    TRAPPING. 

that  is  in  the  neighborhood  will  be  certain  to  visit  the  body,  and 
if  the  traps  are  rightly  arranged  many  will  be  caught.  The  trap 
No.  3,  page  141  is  generally  used.  We  would  caution  the  young 
trapper  in  his  approach  to  an  entrapped  wild  cat,  as  the 
strength  and  ferocity  of  this  animal  under  such  circumstances, 
or  when  otherwise  "hard  pressed,"  is  perfectly  amazing.  When 
caught  in  a  trap  they  spring  with  terrible  fury  at  any  one  who 
approaches  them,  not  waiting  to  be  assailed,  and  when  cornered 
or  hemmed  in  by  a  hunter  they  will  often  turn  upon  their  pur- 
suer, and  springing  at  his  face  will  attack  him  with  most  con- 
sum.mate  fury,  often  inflicting  serious  and  sometimes  fatal 
wounds.  When  hunted  and  attacked  by  dogs,  the  wild  cat  is 
a  most  desperate  and  untiring  fighter,  and  extremely  difficult  to 
kill,  for  which  reason  it  has  been  truthfully  said  that  "if  a  tam.e 
cat  has  nine  lives,  a  wild  cat  must  have  a  dozen." 

The  twitch-up,  erected  on  a  large  scale,  is  utilized  to  a  con- 
siderable extent  in  England  in  the  capture  of  these  animals  ; 
and  these,  together  with  steel  traps  and  dead-falls,  are  about  the 
only  machines  used  for  their  capture.  We  would  suggest  the 
garrote,  bow  and  gun  trap  also  as  being  very  effective.  The 
bait  may  consist  of  the  head  of  a  fowl  or  a  piece  of  rabbit  or 
fowl  flesh :  or,  indeed,  flesh  of  almost  any  kind  will  answer,  par- 
ticularly of  the  bird  kind. 

In  skinning  the  wildcat  the  same  directions  given  under  the 
head  of  the  Fox  may  be  followed,  or  the  pelt  may  be  ripped  up 
the  belly  and  spread  on  a  hoop  stretcher,  page  275. 

THE    BEAR. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Bear  tribe  which  inhabit  our 
continent,  the  most  prominent  of  which  are  the  Grizzly,  and 
the  Musquaw  or  common  Black  Bear.  There  is  no  other  animal 
of  this  country  which  is  more  widely  and  deservedly  dreaded 
than  the  grizzly  bear.  There  are  other  creatures,  the  puma  and 
wild  cat,  for  instance,  which  are  dangerous  v/hen  cornered  or 
wounded,  but  they  are  not  given  to  open  and  deliberate  attack 
upon  human  beings.  .  The  grizzly,  however,  or  "  Ephraim,"  as 
he  is  commonly  termed  by  trappers,  often  displays  a  most  un- 
pleasant readiness  to  attack  and  pursue  a  man,  even  in  the  face 
of  fire  arms.  In  many  localities,  however,  where  hunting  has 
been  pursued  to  considerable  extent,  these  animals  have  learned 
from  experience  a  wholesome  fear  of  man,  and  are  not  so  ready 
to  assume  the  offensive,  but  a  "  wounded^''  grizzly  is  one  of  the 


THE    BEAR.  169 

most  horrible  antagonists  of  which  it  is  possible  to  conceive, 
rushing  upon  its  victim  with  terrible  fury,  and  dealing  most  tear- 
ing and  heavy  blows  with  its  huge  claws. 

In  length  this  formidable  animal  often  exceeds  eight  feet, 
and  its  color  varies  from  yellowish  to  brownish  black,  and  some 
specimens  are  found  of  a  dirty  grey  color. 

The  legs  are  usually  darker  than  the  rest  of  the  body,  and 
the  face  is  generally  of  a  lighter  tint.  The  fore  limbs  of  the 
animal  are  immensely  powerful ;  and  the  foot  of  a  full-grown  in- 
dividual is  fully  eighteen  inches  long,  and  armed  with  claws  five 
inches  in  length.  The  grizzly  inhabits  the  Rocky  Mountain 
regions  and  northward,  being  found  in  considerable  numbers  in 
the  western  part  of  British  America.  Its  hair  is  thick  and 
coarse,  except  in  the  young  animaK  which  possesses  a  beautiful 
fur. 

All  other  creatures  seem  to  stand  in  fear  of  this  formidable 
beast.  Even  the  huge  bison,  or  buffalo,  of  the  Western 
Prairies  sometimes  falls  a  victim  to  the  grizzly  bear,  and  the 
very  imprint  of  a  bear's  foot  upon  the  soil  is  a  warning  which  not 
even  a  hungry  wolf  will  disregard. 

Its  food  consists  of  whatever  animal  it  can  seize,  whether 
human  or  otherwise.  He  also  devours  green  corn,  nuts,  and 
fruits  of  all  kinds.  In  his  earlier  years  he  is  a  good  climber, 
and  will  ascend  a  tree  with  an  agility  which  is  surprisingly  incon- 
sistent with  the  unwieldy  proportions  of  his  body. 

The  average  weight  of  a  full-grown  grizzly  is  over  eight  hun- 
dred pounds,  and  the  girth  around  the  body  is  about  eight  feet. 

The  Black  bear,  or  Musquaw,  which  we  illustrate  is  common 
throughout  nearly  all  the  half  settled-districts  of  North  Amer- 
ica. But  as  the  fur  and  fat  are  articles  of  great  commercial 
value,  the  hunters  and  trappers  have  exercised  their  craft  with 
such  skill  and  determination  that  the  animals  are  gradually  de- 
creasing in  numbers.  The  total  length  of  the  black  bear  is  sel- 
dom more  than  six  feet,  and  its  fur  is  smooth  and  glossy  in  ap- 
pearance. The  color  of  the  animal  is  rightly  conveyed  by  its 
name,  the  cheeks  only  partaking  of  a  reddish  fawn  color. 

It  possesses  little  of  that  fierceness  which  characterizes  the 
grizzly,  being  naturally  a  very  quiet  and  retiring  creature,  keep- 
ing itself  aloof  from  mankind,  and  never  venturing  near  his 
habitations  except  when  excited  by  the  pangs  of  fierce  hunger. 
When  pursued  or  cornered  it  becomes  a  dangerous  antagonist ; 
and  its  furious  rage  often  results  in  fearful  catastrophes  to  both 
man  and  beast.     Nothing  but  a  rifle  ball  in  the  right  spot  will 


lyo 


STEEL    TRAPS   AND    THE    ART    OF    TRAPPING. 


check  the  creature,  when  wrought  up  to  this  pitch  of  fury,  and 
an  additional  wound  only  serves  to  increase  its  terrible  ferocity. 
Bear-chasing  is  an  extremely  dangerous  sport ;  and  there  are 
few  bear-hunters  in  the  land,  however  skilful,  but  what  can 
show  scars  from  the  claws  or  teeth  of  some  exasperated  bruin. 
The  food  of  the  black  bear  is  mostly  of  a  vegetable  character, 


animal  diet  not  being  indulged  in  unless  pressed  by  hunger.  At 
such  times  it  seems  to  especially  prefer  a  young  pig  as  the  most 
desirable  delicacy;  and  even  full-grown  hogs,  it  is  said,  are 
sometimes  lifted  from  their  pens  and  carried  off  in  his  deadly 
embrace. 

Honey  is  his  especial  delight ;  and  he  will  climb  trees  with 
great  agility  in .  order  to  reach  a  nest  of  bees,  there  being  fev/ 
obstacles  which  his  ready  claws  and  teeth  will  not  remove  where 
that  dainty  is  in  view.  He  is  also  very  fond  of  acorns,  berries, 
and  fruits  of  all  kinds. 

The  young  of  the  bear  are  produced  in  January  or  February, 
and  are  from  one  to  four  in  number.  They  are  very  small  and 
covered  with  grey  hair,  which  coat  they  retain  until  they  are  one 
year  of  age.  The  flesh  of  the  bear  is  held  in  high  esteem  among 
hunters,  and  v/hen  propeHy  prepared  is  greatly  esteemed  by 
epicures. 

The  fat  of  the  animal  is  much  used  under  the  title  of  "  Bear 


THE   BEAR.  171 

grease,"  and  is  believed  to  be  an  infallible  hair  rejuvenator, 
and  therefore  becomes  a  valuable  article  of  commerce. 

The  bear  generally  hibernates  during  the  winter,  choosing  some 
comfortable  residence  which  it  has  prepared  in  the  course  of 
the  summer,  or  perhaps  betaking  itself  to  the  hollow  of  some 
tree.  Sometimes,  in  case  of  early  snow,  the  track  of  the  bears 
may  be  distinguished,  and  if  followed  will  probably  lead  to  their 
dens,  in  which  they  can  be  secured  with  logs  until  it  is  desired 
to  kill  them. 

The  black  bear  has  a  habit  of  treading  in  a  beaten  track, 
which  is  easily  detected  by  the  eye  of  an  experienced  hunter 
or  trapper,  and  turned  to  good  account  in  trapping  the  animal. 

There  are  various  modes  of  accomplishing  this  result.  The 
bear  Dead-fall,  described  on  page  17,  is,  perhaps,  the  most 
commonly  used,  and  the  Pit-fall,  page  31,  and  "  Giant  Coop  " 
trap  are  also  excellent.  The  Gun  trap  and  stone  dead-fall,  page 
20,  we  also  confidently  recommend.  When  a  steel  trap  is 
used  it  requires  the  largest  size,  especially  made  for  the  pur- 
pose. It  should  be  supplied  with  a  short  and  very  strong  chain 
firmly  secured  to  a  very  heavy  clog  or  grappling-iron  page  147. 
If  secured  to  a  tree  or  other  stationary  object,  the  captured 
animal  is  likely  to  gnaw  or  tear  his  foot  away,  if,  indeed,  he 
does  not  break  the  trap  altogether  by  the  quick  tightening  of  the 
chain.  The  clog  should  be  only  heavy  enough  to  be  an  inipedi- 
jnent^  and  may  consist  of  a  log  or  heavy  stone.  The  grappling- 
iron,  however,  is  more  often  used  in  connection  with  the 
bear  trap.  It  is  a  common  method  in  trapping  the  bear  to  con- 
struct a  pen  of  upright  branches,  laying  the  trap  at  its  opening, 
and  covering  it  with  leaves.  The  bait  is  then  placed  at  the  back 
in  such  a  position  that  the  animal,  on-  reaching  for  it,  will  be 
sure  to  put  his  foot  in  the  trap. 

An  experienced  trapper  soon  discovers  natural  openings  be- 
tween rocks  or  trees,  which  may  be  easily  modified,  and  by  the 
addition  of  a  few  logs  so  improved  upon  as  to  answer  his  pur- 
IDOse  as  well  as  a  more  elaborate  enclosure,  with  much  less 
trouble.  Any  arrangement  whereby  the  bear  will  be  obliged  to 
tread  upon  the  trap  in  order  to  secure  the  bait,  is,  of  course,  all 
that  is  required.  The  bait  may  be  hung  on  the  edge  of  a  rock 
five  feet  from  the  ground,  and  the  trap  set  on  a  smaller  rock  be- 
neath it.  He  will  thus  be  almost  sure  to  rest  his  forefoot  on 
the  latter  rock  in  order  to  reach  the  bait,  and  will  thus  be  cap- 
tured. 

Another  way  is  to  set  the  trap  in  a  spring  of  water  or  swampy 


173     STEEL  TRAPS  AND  THE  ART  OF  TRAPPING. 

Spot.  Lay  a  lump  of  moss  over  the  pan,  suspending  the  bait 
beyond  the  trap.  The  moss  will  offer  a  natural  foot-rest,  and 
the  offending    paw  will  be  secured. 

Bears  possess  but  little  cunning,  and  will  enter  any  nook  or 
comer  without  the  slightest  compunction  when  in  quest  of  food. 
They  are  especially  fond  of  sweets,  and,  as  we  have  said,  are 
strongly  attracted  by  honey,  being  able  to  scent  it  from  a  great 
distance.  On  this  account  it  is  always  used,  when  possible,  by 
trappers  in  connection  with  other  baits.  These  may  consist  of  a 
fowl,  fruit,  or  flesh  of  any  kind,  and  the  honey  should  be 
smeared  over  it.  Skunk  calDbage  is  said  to  be  an  excellent  bait 
for  the  bear ;  and  in  all  cases  a  free  use  of  the  Oil  of  Anise 
page  152,  sprinkling  it  about  the  traps,  is  also  advisable. 
Should  the  device  fail,  it  is  well  to  make  a  trail  (see  page  153) 
in  several  directions  from  the  trap,  and  extending  for  several 
rods.  A  piece  of  wood,  wet  with  Oil  of  Anise,  will  answer  for 
the  purpose. 

The  general  method  of  skinning  the  bear  consists  in  first  cut- 
ting from  the  front  of  the  lower  jaw  down  the  belly  to  the  vent, 
after  which  the  hide  may  be  easily  removed .  The  hoop-stretcher 
page  275,  will  then  come  into  good  use  in  the  drying  and  pre- 
paring of  the  skin  for  market. 

THE    RACCOON. 

Although  allied  to  the  Bear  family,  this  animal  possesses  much 
in  common  with  the  fox,  as  regards  its  general  disposition  and 
character.  It  has  the  same  slyness  and  cunning,  the  same  stealthy 
tread,  besides  an  additional  mischievousness  and  greed.  It  is 
too  common  to  need  any  description  here,  being  found  plenti- 
fully throughout  nearly  the  whole  United  States.  The  bushy  tail, 
with  its  dark  rings,  will  be  sufficient  to  identify  the  animal  in 
any  community.  Raccoon  hunts  form  the  subject  of  many  very 
exciting  and  laughable  stories,  and  a  "  coon  chase,"  to  this  day 
is  a  favorite  sport  all  over  the  country.  The  raccoon,  or  "  coon," 
as  he  is  popularly  styled,  is  generally  hunted  by  moonlight. 
An  experienced  dog  is  usually  set  on  the  trail  and  the  fugitive 
soon  seeks  refuge  in  a  tree,  when  its  destruction  is  almost  cer- 
tain. Hence  the  term  "  treed  coon,"  as  appHed  to  an  individual 
when  in  a  dangerous  predicament.  Besides  possessing  many  of  the 
peculiarities  of  the  fox,  the  *'  coon  "  has  the  additional  accom- 
plishment of  being  a  most  agile  and  expert  climber,  holding  so 
firmly  to  the  limb  by  its  sharp  claws  as  to  defy  all  attempts  to 
shake  it  off. 


THE    RACCOON.  I73 

The  home  of  the  raccoon  is  generally  in  a  hollow  tree  ;  the 
young  are  brought  forth  in  May,  and  are  from  four  to  six  in 
number. 

In  captivity  this  animal  makes  a  very  cunning  and  interesting 
pet,  being  easily  tamed  to  follow  its  master,  and  when  dainties  are 
in  view  becomes  a  most  adroit  pickpocket.  Its  food  is  extensive 
in  variety,  thus  making  it  quite  an  easy  matter  to  keep  the  creature 
in  confinement.  Nuts  and  fruits  of  all  kinds  it  eagerly  devours, 
as  well  as  bread,  cake  and  jDotatoes.  It  manifests  no  hesitation 
at  a  meal  of  rabbit,  rat,  squirrel,  or  bird,  and  rather  likes  it  for  a 
change,  and  when  he  can  partake  of  a  dessert  of  honey  or  mo- 
lasses his  enjoyment  knows  no  bounds.  Frogs,  fresh  water 
clams,  green  corn,  and  a  host  of  other  delicacies  come  within 
the  range  of  his  diet,  and  he  may  sometimes  be  seen  digging 
from  the  sand  the  eggs  of  the  soft-shelled  turtle,  which  he  greedily 
sucks.  We  cordially  recommend  the  coon  as  a  pet.  He  becomes 
very  docile,  and  is  full  of  cunning  ways,  and  if  the  young  ones 
can  be  traced  to  their  hiding-place  in  somiC  hollow  tree,  and 
secured,  if  not  too  young,  v/e  could  warrant  our  readers  a  great 
deal  of  real  sport  and  pleasure  in  rearing  the  little  animals  and 
watching  their  ways 

In  cold  climates  the  raccoon  lies  dormant  in  the  winter,  only 
venturing  out  on  occasional  mild  days  ;  but  in  the  Southern  States 
he  is  active  throughout  the  year^  prowling  about  by  day  and  by 
night  in  search  of  his  food^  inserting  his  little  sharp  nose  into 
every  corner,  and  feeling  with  his  slender  paws  between  stones 
for  spiders  and  bugs  of  all  kinds.  He  spies  the  innocent  frog 
with  his  head  just  out  of  the  water,  and  pouncing  upon  him,  he 
despatches  him  without  a  moment's  warning.  There  seems  to 
be  no  limits  to  his  rapacity,  for  he  is  ahvays  eating  and  always 
hungry.  The  print  of  the  raccoon's  paw  in  the  mud  or  snow 
is  easily  recognized,  much  resembling  the  impression  made  by 
the  foot  of  a  babe. 

The  best  season  for  trapping  the  coon  is  late  in  the  fall,  win- 
ter, and  early  spring,  or  from  and  between  the  months  of  October 
and  April.  During  this  time  the  pelts  are  in  excellent  condi- 
tion Early  in  the  spring  when  the  snow  is  disappearing,  the 
coons  come  out  of  their  hiding  places  to  start  on  their  foraging 
tours  ;  and  at  this  time  are  particularly  susceptible  to  a  tempting 
bait,  and  they  may  be  successfully  trapped  in  the  following 
manner : — 

Take  a  steel  trap  and  set  it  on  the  edge  of  some  pool,  or 
stream  where  the  coons  are  known  to  frequent :  let  it  be  an  inch 


174 


HOW   TO   TRAP. 


or  so  under  the  water,  and  carefully  chain  ed  to  a  clog.  The 
bait  may  consist  of  a  fish,  frog,  or  head  of  a  fowl,  scented  with 
Oil  of  Anise,  and  suspended  over  the  traps  about  two  feet 
higher,  by  the  aid  of  a  sapling  secured  in  the  ground.  (See 
title  page  at  the  head  of  this  section.)  The  object  of  this  is  to 
induce  the  animal  to  jump  for  it,  when  he  will  land  with  his  foot 
in  the  trap.     Another  method  is  to  construct  a  V  shaped  pen^ 


set  the  trap  near  the  entrance,  and,  fastening  the  bait  in  the 
angle,  cover  the  trap  loosely  with  leaves,  and  scent  the  bait  as  be- 
fore with  the  anise.  The  trap  should  be  at  such  a  distance  from 
the  bait  that  the  animal,  in  order  to  reach  it,  will  be  obliged  to 
tread  upon  the  pan,  which  he  will  be  sure  to  do,  his  greed  over- 
coming his  discretion.  Any  arrangement  v/hereby  the  animal 
will  be  obliged  to  tread  upon  the  trap  in  order  to  reach  the  bait 
will  be  successful. 

The  beaten  track  of  the  coons  may  often  be  discovered  in 
soft  ground,  and  a  trap  carefully  concealed  therein  will  soon  secure 
its  victim.  Another  method  is  to  set  the  trap  near  the  coon 
tracks,  spreading  a  few  drops  of  anise  on  the  pan  and  covering 
the  whole  with  leaves.     The  coon,  attracted  by  the  scent,  will 


THE   BADGER.  1 75 

feel  around  in  the  leaves  for  the  bait,  and  thus  "  put  his  foot 
in  it." 

In  the  South  they  construct  a  coon  trap  from  a  hollow  log, 
either  having  the  ends  suppHed  with  lids,  which  fall  just  Hke 
the  Rat  trap  page  io6  as  the  animal  passes  through,  or  else 
constructed  with  nooses,  similar  to  the  Box-snare,  page  56. 
Box  traps  of  a  style  similar  to  that  described  on  page  103  are 
also  excellent,  and  a  strong  twitch-up,  of  any  of  the  various 
kinds  we  have  described,  will  be  found  to  work  admirably. 

Many  of  the  suggestions  in  trapping  the  mink,  page  I90,will 
be  found  equally  serviceable  in  regard  to  the  coon. 

The  skin  of  this  animal  should  be  removed  as  recommended 
for  the  fox,  and  similarly  stretched.  It  may  also  be  skinned  by 
first  ripping  up  the  belly,  and  spread  on  a  hoop  stretcher. 
page  275. 

THE  BADGER. 

The  American  Badger  is  mostly  confined  to  the  North- 
western parts  of  the  United  States,  and  it  is  a  curious  little 
animal.  In  size  its  body  is  slightly  smaller  than  the  fox.  Its 
general  color  is  grey,  approaching  to  black  on  the  head  and 
legs.  There  is  a  white  streak  extending  from  the  tip  of  the 
animal's  long  nose  over  the  top  of  the  head  and  fading  off  near 
the  shoulders.  The  cheeks  are  also  white,  and  a  broad  and 
definitely  marked  black  line  extends  from  the  snout  back 
around  the  eyes  ending  at  the  neck.  The  grey  of  this  animal 
is  produced  from  the  mixture  of  the  varied  tints  of  its  fur,  each 
hair  presenting  a  succession  of  shades.  At  the  root  it  is  of  a 
deep  grey;  this  fades  into  a  tawny  yellow,  and  is  followed  by  a 
black,  the  hair  being  finally  tipped  with  white.  The  fur  is 
much  used  in  the  manufacture  of  fine  paint  brushes,  a  good 
"  Badger  blender "  being  a  most  useful  accessory  in  the 
painter's  art.  The  badger  is  slow  and  clumsy  in  its  actions, 
except  when  engaged  in  digging,  his  capacities  in  this  direc- 
tion being  so  great  as  to  enable  him  to  sink  himself  into  the 
ground  with  marvellous  rapidity.  The  nest  of  the  animal  is 
made  in  the  burrow,  and  the  young  are  three  or  four  in  number. 
His  diet  is  as  variable  and  extensive  as  that  of  the  coon,  and 
consists  of  anything  in  any  way  eatable.  Snails,  worms,  rats, 
mice  and  moles,  seem  to  have  a  particular  attraction  for  him  ; 
and  he  seems  to  take  especial  delight  in  unearthing  the  stores 
of  the  wild  bees,  devouring  honey,  wax  and  grubs  together,  and 


176 


HOW   TO   TRAP. 


caring  as  little  for  the  stings  of  the  angry  bees  as  he  would  of 
the  bills  of  so  many  mosquitoes,  the  thick  coating  of  fur 
forming  a  perfect  protection  against  his  winged  antagonists. 
The  badger  is  very  susceptible  to  human  influence,  and~  can  be 
effectually  tamed  with  but  little  trouble.  Although  his  general 
appearance  would  not  indicate  it,  he  is  a  sly  and  cunning  animal, 
and  not  easily  captured  in  a  trap  of  any  kind.  He  has  been 
known  to  set  at  defiance  all  the  traps  that  were  set  for  him,  and 


to  devour  the  baits  without  suffering  for  his  audacity.  He  will 
sometimes  overturn  a  trap  and  spring  it  from  the  under  side, 
before  attempting  to  remove  the  bait.  Although  not  quite  as 
crafty  as  the  fox,  it  is  necessary  to  use  much  of  the  same 
caution  in  trapping  the  badger,  as  a  bare  trap  seldom  v/ins 
more  than  a  look  of  Qontcmpt  from  the  wary  animal. 

The  usual  mode  of  catching  the  creature  is  to  set  the  trap 
size  No  3  at  the  mouth  of  its  burrow,  carefully  covering  it 
with  loose  earth  and  securing  it  by  a  chain  to  a  stake.  Any  of 
the  methods  used  in  trapping  the  fox  will  also  be  found  to 
work  admirably.  The  dead-fall  or  garrote  will  also  do  good 
service.  Bait  with  a  rat,  mouse,  or  with  whatever  else  the 
unimal  is  especially  fond,  and  scent  with  Oil  of  Anise  or  Musk. 
In  early  spring,  while  the  ground  is  still  hard,  badgers  are 
easily  captured  by  flooding  their  burrows.  After  being  satis- 
fied that  the  animal  is  in  its* hole,  proceed  to  pour  in  pailful] 
after  pailful  of  water  at  the  entrance.     He  will  not  long  be  able 


THE    BEAVER.  1 77 

to  Stand  this  sort  of  thing,  and  he  may  be  secured  as  he  makes 
his  exit  at  the  opening  of  the  burrow. 

The  skin  should  be  removed  whole,  as  in  the  case  of  the  fox, 
or  as  described  for  the  beaver,  and  stretched  as  therein  indi- 
cated. 

THE  BEAVER. 

The  Beaver  of  North  America  has  now  a  world-wide  reputa- 
tion for  its  wonderful  instinct  and  sagacity.  The  general 
appearance  of  this  animal  is  that  of  a  very  large  muskrat  with 
a  broad  flattened  tail,  and  the  habits  of  both  these  animals  are 
in  many  respects  alike.  The  beaver  is  an  amphibious  creature 
and  social  in  its  habits  of  living,  large  numbers  congregating 
together  and  forming  little  villages,  and  erecting  their  dome- 
like huts  Hke  little  Tisquimaux.  The  muskrat  has  this  same 
propensity,  but  the  habitation  of  the  beaver  is  on  a  much  more 
extensive  scale.  These  huts  or  "  Beaver  lodges,"  are  generally 
made  in  rivers  and  brooks,  although  sometimes  in  lakes  or 
large  ponds.  They  are  chiefly  composed  of  branches,  moss,  grass 
and  mud,  and  are  large  enough  to  accommodate  a  family  of  five 
or  six.  The  form  of  the  "  lodges  "  is  dome-like,  and  it  varies  con- 
siderably in  size.  The  foundation  is  made  on  the  bottom  of  the 
river,  and  the  hut  is  built  up  like  a  mound,  often  twenty  feet  in 
diameter  and  projecting  several  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
water.  The  walls  of  this  structure  are  often  five  or  six  feet 
thick,  and  the  roofs  are  all  finished  off  with  a  thick  layer  of 
mud  laid  on  with  marvellous  smoothness.  These  huts  form 
the  winter  habitations  of  the  beavers,  and  as  this  compost  of 
mud,  grass  and  branches  becomes  congealed  into  a  solid  mass 
by  the  severe  frosts  of  our  northern  winter,  it  can  easily  be  seen 
that  they  afford  a  safe  shelter  against  any  intruder  and  partic- 
ularly the  wolverine,  which  is  a  most  deadly  enemy  to  the 
beaver.  So  hard  does  this  frozen  mass  become  as  to  defy 
even  the  edges  of  iron  tools,  and  the  breaking  open  of  the 
"  Beaver  houses  "  is  at  no  time  an  easy  task.  Beavers  work 
almost  entirely  in  the  dark ;  and  a  pond  which  is  calm  and 
placid  in  the  day  time  will  be  found  in  the  night  to  be  full  of 
life  and  motion,  and  the  squealing  and  splashing  in  the  water 
will  bear  evidence  of  their  industry.  Lest  the  beavers  should 
not  have  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  at  all  seasons,  they  are  in 
the  habit  of  constructing  veritable  dams  to  ensure  that  result. 
These  dams  display  a  wonderful  amount  of  reason  and  skill, 
and,  together  v/ith  the  huts,  have  won  for  the  beaver  a  reputa- 


178 


HOW   TO   TRAP 


tion  for  engineering  skill  which  the  creature  truly  des'^rves. 
In  constructing  these  ingenious  dams  the  beavers,  by  the  aid  of 
their  powerful  teeth,  gnaw  down  trees  sometimes  of  large  size, 
and  after  cutting  them  into  smaller  pieces  float  them  on  the 
water  to   the   spot   selected    for  the    embankment.     In   swift 


streams  this  embankment  is  built  so  as  to  arch  agamst  the 
current,  thus  securing  additional  strength,  and  evincing  an 
instinct  on  the  part  of  the  animal  which  amounts  almost  to 
reason.  In  cutting  down  the  trees  the  beaver  gnaws  a  circulai 
cut  around  the  trunk,  cutting  deepest  on  the  side  toward  the 
water,  thus  causing  the  trunk  to  fall  into  the  stream.  The 
first  step  in  constructing  the  embankment  is  to  lay  the  logs 
down  cautiously  in  the  required  line  of  the  dam,  afterwards 
weighting  them  with  heavy  stones,  which  the  beavers  by  their 
united  efforts  roll  upon  them.  The  foundation  of  the  em- 
bankment is  often  ten  feet  in  width,  and  is  built  up  by  continued 
heaping  of  branches,  stones  and  mud,  until  it  forms  a  barrier  of 
immense  strength  and  resisting  power.     In  many  cases,  through 


'      THE    BEAVER.  1 79 

a  lapse  of  years,  and  through  a  consequent  accumulation  of 
floating  leaves,  twigs,  and  seeds  of  plants,  these  embankments 
become  thickly  covered  with  vegetation,  and,  in  many  cases  in 
the  Hudson  Bay  country,  have  even  been  known  to  nurture 
trees  of  considerable  dimensions.  The  broad  flat  tail  of  the 
animal  serves  a  most  excellent  purpose,  in  carrying  the  mud  to 
the  dams  or  huts,  and  in  matting  and  smoothing  it  into  a  solidity. 

The  entrances  to  the  various  huts  are  all  beneath  the  water, 
and  they  all  open  into  one  common  ditch,  which  is  purposely 
dug  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  is  too  deep  tOvbe  entirely  frozen. 
In  the  summer  time  the  huts  are  vacated,  and  the  beavers  make 
their  abode  in  burrows  on  the  banks  of  the  stream,  which  serve 
as  a  secure  retreat  at  all  times,  and  particularly  in  winter  when 
their  houses  are  molested.  The  Indians  of  the  Northwest  are 
aware  of  this  fact,  and  turn  it  to  good  account  in  the  capture  of 
the  animals. 

When  the  beaver's  village  is  in  a  small  creek,  or  brook,  it  is 
first  necessary  to  stake  the  water  across  both  above  and  below 
the  huts.  The  next  thing  is  to  ascertain  the  exact  spots  of  the 
burrows  in  the  banks,  and  when  we  consider  the  river  is  covered 
with  ice,  this  seems  a  rather  difficult  problem.  But  this  is 
where  the  Indian  shows  his  skill.  He  starts  upon  the  ice,  pro- 
vided with  an  ice  chisel  secured  to  a  long,  stout  handle.  With 
this  he  strikes  upon  the  ice,  following  the  edge  of  the  stream. 
The  sound  of  the  blow  determines  to  his  practiced  ear  the  direct 
spot  opposite  the  opening  of  the  burrows,  and  at  this  point  a  hole 
afoot  in  diameter  is  made  through  the  ice.  Following  the  edge  of 
the  bank  he  continues  his  search,  and  in  like  manner  cuts  the 
holes  through  the  ice  until  all  the  retreats  are  discovered.  While 
the  expert  Indians  are  thus  engaged,  the  "squaws"  are  occu- 
pied in  the  more  laborious  work  of  breaking  open  the  houses, 
and  the  beavers,  alarmed  at  the  invasion  of  their  sanctums, 
make  for  the  banks,  and  the  ready  huntsmen  stationed  at  the 
various  holes,  watch  for  their  victims  beneath  the  openings, 
until  a  violent  motion  or  discoloration  of  the  water  betrays  their 
passage  beneath.  The  entrance  to  the  holes  in  the  bank  are 
then  instantly  closed  with  stakes  and  the  beaver  is  made  priso- 
ner in  his  burrow.  When  the  depth  of  the  burrow  will  admit, 
the  arm  of  the  hunter  is  introduced,  and  the  animal  pulled  out, 
but  otherwise  a  long  hook  lashed  to  a  pole  is  employed  for  this 
purpose.  Scores  of  beavers  are  sometimes  taken  in  this  way 
in  a  few  hours.  Spearing  is  also  often  successfully  resorted  to, 
and  when  the  ice  is  thin  and  transparent  the  beavers  may  be 


l8o  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

clearly  observed  as  they  come  to  the  surface,  beneath  the  ice, 
for  air. 

The  general  color  of  the  animal  is  reddish  brown,  this  tint 
being  imparted  principally  by  the  long  hairs  of  the  fur.  There 
is  an  inner  and  softer  down  of  a  grey  color,  which  lies  next  the 
skin,  and  which  is  the  valuable  growth  of  the  fur.  The  total 
length  of  the  animal  is  about  three  feet  and  a  half,  the  flat,  pad- 
dle-shaped, scale-covered  tail  being  about  a  foot  in  length. 

The  young  are  brought  forth  in  April  or  May,  from  three  to 
seven  at  a  Utter,  and  take  to  the  v/ater  when  a  month  old.  The  first 
four  years  in  the  beaver's  life  is  spent  under  the  "  maternal  roof," 
after  which  period  they  shift  for  themselves.  To  trap  the  beaver 
successfully,  requires  the  utmost  caution,  as  the  senses  of  the 
animal  are  so  keen,  and  he  is  so  sagacious  withal,  that  he  will  de- 
tect the  recent  presence  of  the  trapper  from  the  slightest  evi- 
dences. The  traps  should  be  washed  clean  arid  soaked  in  ley, 
before  using,  and  thereafter  handled  with  gloves,  as  a  mere  touch 
of  the  finger  will  leave  a  scent  which  the  acute  sense  of  the  beaver 
will  easily  perceive.  All  footprints  should  be  carefully  obliterat- 
ed by  throwing  v*^ater  upon  them,  and  some  trappers  say  that  the 
mere  act  of  spitting  on  the  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
traps  has  been  known  to  thwart  success. 

Almost  the  only  bait  used  in  trapping  the  beaver  is  the  pre- 
paration called  "  barkstone  '  by  the  trappers,  or  "  castoreum  " 
in  commerce.  This  substance  is  fully  described  on  page  150 
under  the  head  of  ''  Scent  Baits." 

To  the  barkstone  the  trapper  is  mostly  indebted  for  his  suc- 
cess, and  the  effect  of  its  odor  on  the  beaver  is  something  sur- 
prising. Our  best  trappers  inform  us  that  these  animals  will 
scent  this  odor  for  a  great  distance,  and  will  fairly  ''-  squeal  with 
delight,"  not  being  easy  until  the  savory  bait  is  discovered,  which 
almost  invariably  results  in  capture. 

Taking  advantage  of  this  curious  propensity,  the  trapper 
always  carries  a  supply  of  castoreum  in  a  closed  vessel. 

There  are  various  ways  of  trapping  the  beaver,  of  which  we 
shall  present  the  best.  An  examination  of  the  river  bank  will 
easily  disclose  the  feeding  place  of  the  beavers,  as  evinced  by 
the  absence  of  the  bark  on  the  branches  and  trunks  of  trees. 
At  this  spot,  in  about  four  inches  of  water,  set  your  trap,  v/hich 
should  be  a  Newhouse  No.  4.  Weight  the  end  of  the  chain 
with  a  stone  as  large  as  your  head,  and,  if  possible,  rest  it  on 
the  edge  of  some  rock  projecting  into  deep  water,  having  a 
smaller  rope  or  chain  leading  from  the  stone  to  the  shore.    A 


THE    BEAVER.  l8l 

small  twig,  the  size  of  your  little  finger,  should  then  be  stripped 
of  its  bark,  and  after  chewing  or  mashing  one  end,  it  should 
be  dipped  in  the  castoreum.  Insert  this  stick  in  the  mud,  be- 
tween  the  jaws  of  the  trap,  letting  it  project  about  six  inches 
above  the  water.  The  beaver  is  soon  attracted  by  the  odor  of 
the  bait,  and  in  reaching  for  it,  his  foot  is  caught  in  the  trap. 
In  his  fright  he  will  immediately  jump  for  deep  water,  thus  dis- 
lodging the  stone,  which  will  sink  him  to  the  bottom,  and  thus 
drown  him.  The  smaller  chain  or  rope  will  serve  as  a  guide  to 
the  trap,  and  the  victim  may  be  drawn  to  the  surface.  Another 
plan  is  to  set  the  trap  in  about  a  foot  of  water,  chaining  it  fast 
to  a  stout  pole  securely  driven  in  the  mud  further  out  in  the 
stream,  and  near  deep  water.  Bait  as  before.  The  trap  being 
thus  fastened  will  prevent  the  efforts  of  the  animal  to  drag  it 
ashore,  where  he  would  be  certain  to  amputate  his  leg  and  walk 
off.  There  is  another  method,  which  is  said  to  work  excellently. 
The  chain  is  secured  to  a  very  heavy  stone,  and  sunk  in  deej) 
water,  and  the  trap  set  and  baited  near  shore,  in  about  a  foot  o- 
water.  This  accomplishes  the  same  purpose  as  the  pole  first 
described,  and  is  even  surer,  as  the  animal  will  sometimes  use 
his  teeth  in  severing  the  wood,  and  thereby  make  his  escape. 
In  the  case  of  the  stone  a  duplicate  rope  or  chain  will  be  re- 
quired to  hft  it  in  case  of  capture. 

The  trap  may  be  set  at  the  entrance  to  the  holes  in  the  banks, 
two  or  three  inches  under  water,  implanting  the  stick  with  the 
castoreum  bait  directly  over  the  pan,  a  few  inches  above  the 
water.  If  the  water  should  be  deep  near  this  spot,  it  is  an 
excellent  plan  to  weight  the  end  of  the  chain  with  a  large  stone 
with  a  "leader"  from  it  also,  s.s  already  described.  Insert  two 
or  three  sticks  in  the  bank  beneath  the  water,  and  rest  the  stone 
upon  them. 

When  the  beaver  is  caught  he  will  turn  a  somersault  into  deep 
water,  at  the  same  time  dislodging  the  stone,  which  will  sink 
him.  No  sooner  is  a  break  ascertained  in  the  dam  than  all  the 
beavers  unite  in  fixing  it,  and  this  peculiarity  of  habit  may  be 
turned  to  account  in  trapping  them.  Make  a  slight  break  in 
the  dam,  five  inches  across,  beneath  the  water.  On  the  under 
side  of  the  break,  and  of  course,  on  the  inside  of  the  dam,  the 
trap  should  be  set.  The  beavers  will  soon  discover  the  leak, 
and  the  capture  of  at  least  onex?^  certain.  The  trap  may  be  also 
set  where  the  beavers  are  wont  to  crawl  on  shore,  being  placed 
several  inches  below  the  water  in  such  a  position  that  they 
will  step  on  it  when  in  the  act  of  ascending  the  banks.  Where 
the  weighted    stone    is    not  used,  the   sliding  pole  page  145 

13 


1 82  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

should  always  be  employed,  as  it  is  necessary  to  drown  the  ani« 
mal,  to  prevent  amputation  and  escape. 

The  food  of  the  beaver  consists  chiefly  of  the  bark  of  vari- 
ous trees,  together  with  aquatic  plants.  The  fur  is  valuable 
only  in  the  late  fall,  winter,  and  early  spring. 

In  skinning  the  beaver,  a  slit  is  made  from  the  under  jaw  to 
the  vent,  after  which  it  is  easily  removed.  It  should  be  tacked 
to  a  flat  board,  fur  side  in,  or  stretched  by  means  of  a  hoop,  as 
described  on  page  275. 

THE   MUSKRAT. 

The  muskrat,  or  musquash,  is  very  much  like  a  beaver  on  a 
small  scale,  and  is  so  well-known  throughout  the  United  States 
that  a  detailed  description  or  illustration  will  hardly  be  neces- 
sary. Reduce  the  size  of  the  beaver  to  one  foot  in  length,  and 
add  a  long  flattened  tail,  instead  of  the  spatula-shaped  appen- 
dage of  this  animal,  and  we  will  have  a  pretty  good  specimen  of 
a  muskrat.  The  body  has  that  same  thick-set  appearance,  and 
the  gnawing  teeth  are  very  large  and  powerful.  Like  the 
beaver,  the  muskrat  builds  its  dome-like  huts  in  ponds  or 
swamps,  which  it  frequents ;  and  although  not  as  large  as  those 
of  the  beaver  they  are  constructed  in  the  same  manner  and  of 
the  same  materials.  Muskrats  are  mostly  nocturnal  in  their 
habits ;  they  are  tireless  swimmers,  and  in  the  winter  travel 
great  distances  beneath  the  ice;  all  of  which  peculiarities  are 
like  the  beaver.  Their  food  is  quite  variable,  consisting  of 
grass  and  roots,  oats,  corn  and  other  grain,  apples  and  nuts, 
and  even  tomatoes,  turnips,  carrots,  mussels  and  clams,  when- 
ever these  can  be  found. 

The  muskrat  is  a  native  of  all  of  the  Eastern,  Western,  and 
Middle  States,  and  also  the  Southern  States,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  Georgia,  Alabama  and  Florida.  They  are  also  found 
in  Canada  and  the  Arctic  regions,  and  in  the  North-west. 
They  are  hunted  and  captured  as  a  means  of  support  to  the 
native  tribes  of  Indians  who  sell  or  trade  the  furs  to  Eastern 
dealers.  The  fur  somewhat  resembles  that  of  the  mink  in  texture, 
although  not  as  fine,  and  the  color  varies  from  dark  brown 
above  to  grey  beneath.  It  is  in  its  best  condition  during  the 
winter,  especially  in  March.  The  animal  possesses  a  musky 
smell,  from  which  it  takes  its  name.  It  is  said  by  many  that 
the  flesh  of  the  animal,  when  carefully  prepared,  becomes  qijite 
palatable  food. 

Their  houses  are  so  nearly  like  those  of  the  beaver  that  a 


THE    MUSKRAT.  183 

second  description  is  scarcely  necessary.  They  are  often  five 
or  six  feet  in  height,  and  the  entrances  are  all  under  water. 
Dozens  of  these  huts  may  often  be  seen  in  ponds  and  marshes, 
and  sometimes  they  exist  in  such  numbers  as  to  give  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  veritable  Esquimaux  village.  These  houses  are 
used  only  in  the  winter  season.  In  general  the  muskrat  lives 
in  burrows,  which  it  excavates  in  the  banks  of  ponds  or  streams, 
bringing  forth  its  young,  from  three  to  nine  in  number,  in  the 
nest,  which  it  forms  at  the  end  of  the  tunnel.  They  are  very 
prolific,  producing  three  litters  a  year.  Like  the  beaver,  otter 
and  mink,  the  muskrat  can  travel  long  distances  under  the  ice 
with  only  one  supply  of  fresh  air,  and  its  method  is  certainly 
very  interesting.  Before  plunging  beneath  the  ice  the  animal 
fills  its  lungs  with  air,  and  when  under  the  water  it  swims  until 
it  can  no  longer  hold  its  breath.  It  then  rises  up  beneath  the 
ice,  empties  its  lungs,  the  air  remaining  in  bubbles  beneath  the 
ice.  In  a  short  time  this  air  absorbs  sufficient  oxygen  from  the 
water  and  ice  as  to  be  life-sustaining,  when  the  animal  again  in- 
hales it  and  proceeds  on  its  journey.  It  is  by  this  means  that  the 
beaver,  muskrat  and  mink  are  enabled  to  travel  such  great  dis- 
tances beneath  unbroken  ice,  and  it  is  certainly  a  very  novel  and 
interesting  method.  Where  the  ice  is  thin  and  transparent 
these  animals  are  sometimes  captured  through  the  means  of 
this  habit.  A  heavy  stroke  on  the  frozen  hut  will  drive  its 
occupants  to  the  water,  and  their  course  may  easily  be  followed 
through  the  ice.  If  one  of  them  is  tracked,  he  will  presently  be 
seen  to  stop  at  the  surface  of  the  water  for  fresh  oxygen,  as 
already  described.  The  bubbles  will  soon  appear,  and  if  the 
hunter  immediately  strikes  with  an  axe  or  heavy  stick  directly 
on  the  spot,  the  submerged  animal  will  be  literally  driven  away 
from  its  breath,  and  will  of  course  drown  in  a  very  few 
minutes.  A  short  search  will  soon  reveal  the  dead  creature, 
after  which  he  may  be  taken  out  through  a  hole  cut  in  the  ice. 
Otter  and  mink  are  sometimes  taken  in  the  same  way.  In 
many  localities  great  numbers  of  muskrats  are  also  captured 
by  spearing,  either  through  the  ice  or  through  the  walls  of 
their  houses.  In  the  latter  case,  two  are  often  taken  at  once. 
This  method  is  quite  uncertain  and  unreliable,  as  the  walls  of 
the  hut  are  often  so  firmly  frozen  as  to  defy  the  thrust  of  the 
hardest  steel,  and  a  fruitless  attempt  will  drive  the  inmates 
from  their  house  at  once.  The  spear  generally  used  consists  of 
a  single  shaft  of  steel  about  eighteen  inches  in  length  and  half 
an  inch  in  diameter,  barbed  at  the  point,  and  is   feruled  to  a 


184  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

solid  handle  five  feet  long.  In  spearing  through  the  hut  the 
south  side  is  generally  selected,  as  being  more  exposed  to  the 
heat  of  the  sun.  Great  caution  is  necessary,  as  the  slightest 
noise  will  drive  out  the  inmates.  The  spear  should  be  thrust 
in  a  slanting  direction,  a  few  inches  above  the  surface  of  the 
ice.  Where  many  houses  exist  it  is  well  to  destroy  all  but  one. 
Into  this  the  whole  tribe  will  centre,  and  by  successive  spear- 
ing they  may  all  be  captured.  When  the  spear  has  been 
thrust  into  the  house,  it  must  be  thus  left  until  a  hole  is  cut 
with  a  hatchet,  through  which  to  remove  the  game.  Spearing 
through  the  ice  is  a  better  method,  but  for  general  service  there 
is  no  means  of  capture  more  desirable  than  by  trapping.  The 
steel  trap  No.  i  or  2  is  the  size  particularly  adapted  for  the 
muskrat,  and  may  be  set  in  various  ways.  I'he  most  common 
method  is  to  set  the  trap  under  two  inches  of  water  on  the  pro- 
jecting logs  or  stones  on  the  border  of  the  streams  where  the 
*' signs  "  of  the  animal  indicate  its  recent  presence.  The  trap 
should  of  course  be  secured  by  a  chain,  ringed  to  a  sliding 
pole,  page  145,  which  will  lead  the  animal  into  deep  water 
when  captured,  and  thus  effect  its  speedy  death  by  drowning. 
In  this  case  bait  is  not  necessary.  If  their  feeding  grounds 
can  be  discovered,  or  if  their  tracks  indicate  any  particular 
spot  where  they  crawl  ashore  at  the  water's  edge,  at  this  point 
a  trap  may  be  set  with  good  success.  In  this  instance  it  is  well 
also  to  set  it  under  water,  baiting  with  a  piece  of  turnip,  par- 
snip, apple,  or  the  like,  suspended  a  few  inches  above  the 
pan  of  the  trap.  Late  in  the  fall,  when  collecting  their  building 
material,  they  often  form  large  beds  of  dried  grasses  and  sticks, 
and  a  trap  set  in  these  beds  and  covered  with  some  loose  sub- 
stance, such  as  grass,  chaff,  or  the  like,  will  often  secure  the 
animal.  The  trap,  in  this  case  should  be  attached  to  a  spring- 
pole,  page  145  as  the  muskrat  is  a  wonderful  adept  at  self- 
amputation,  when  its  escape  depends  upon  it. 

The  trap  is  sometimes  set  in  the  interior  of  the  house,  and 
may  be  accomplished  by  first  breaking  an  opening  in  the  wall, 
near  the  ice,  the  trap  being  inserted  and  set,  afterwards  cover- 
ing it  with  the  loose  grass  and  moss,  which  is  generally  abund- 
ant in  the  interior  of  these  huts.  When  this  is  done,  the  chain 
should  be  secured  to  a  stick  on  the  outside,  and  the  hole  re- 
paired. No  spring  or  sliding-pole  is  necessary  in  this  method,  as 
the  animal  when  caught  will  immediately  run  for  the  water,  and 
the  weight  of  the  trap  will  sink  and  drown  its  prisoner. 

Scent  baits  are  sometimes  used  in  trapping  the  muskrat,  the 


THE    MUSKRAT.  185 

musk  taken  from  the  female  animal  being  particularly  valued. 
The  Oils  of  Rhodium  and  Amber,  page  151  are  also  success- 
fully employed  by  many  trappers  ;  a  few  drops  of  either  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  trap,  or  directly  upon  it,  being  sufficient. 

Although  steel  traps  are  most  generally  used,  there  are  several 
other  devices  which  are  equally  if  not  even  mo7'e  desirable. 
Chief  among  these  is  the  barrel  trap,  commonly  and  success- 
fully employed  in  many  parts  of  New  England,  where  these  ani- 
mals often  exist  in  such  numbers  as  to  render  their  destruction 
a  matter  of  necessity. 

The  above  trap  consists  merely  of  an  old  barrel,  sunk  to  its 
upper  edge  in  the  river  bank,  and  about  half  filled  with  water. 
On  tlie  surface  of  the  water  a  few  light  pieces  of  wood  are 
floated,  over  which  the  bait,  consisting  of  carrot,  sweet  apple, 
or  turnip,  is  placed.  A  trail  is  then  made  by  dragging  a  piece 
of  scented  meat  from  the  barrel  in  various  directions,  and  a  few 
pieces  of  the  bait  are  also  strewn  along  these  trails.  The 
muskrats  will  thus  be  led  to  the  barrel,  and  will  be  certain  to 
jump  in  after  the  tempting  morsels,  and  their  escape  is  impos- 
sible. No  less  than  a  dozen  muskrats  have  been  thus  caught 
in  a  single  barrel  in  one  night,  and  a  few  of  these  traps  have 
been  known  almost  to  exterminate  the  musquashes  in  localities 
where  they  had  jDreviously  existed  in  such  numbers  as  to  be- 
come a  pestilence  to  the  neighborhood. 

A  barrel  trap  constructed  on  the  principle  described  on  page 
131  is  also  equally  effective,  although  rather  more  compli- 
cated in  construction.  The  Twitch-up  is  often  used,  and  pos- 
sesses the  advantage  of  a  trap  and  spring-pole  combined.  Box 
traps,  page  103,  are  also  to  be  recommended. 

The  skin  of  the  muskrat  may  be  removed  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  hereinafter  described  for  the  otter,  with  the  exception 
of  the  tail.  This  is  considered  the  best  method.  It  may  also 
be  taken  off  flat  by  ripping  from  the  under  jaw  to  the  vent,  and 
peeling  around  the  eyes  and  mouth,  letting  the  skin  of  the  legs 
come  off  whole,  without  cutting. 

Another  common  method  consists  in  cutting  off  the  feet,  and 
then  ripping  with  a  knife  from  the  front  of  the  lower  jaw  down 
the  neck  and  belly  to  a  point  a  little  beyond  the  forelegs.  The 
lips,  eyes,  and  ears  are  then  carefully  skinned,  and  the  hide  is 
stripped  backwards  from  the  body.  In  the  latter  method  the 
bow-stretch cr,  page  274,  is  used. . 


i86 


HOW   TO   TRAP. 


THE   OTTER. 

The  fur  of  this  animal  is  of  such  exquisite  softness  and 
beauty  as  to  be  in  great  demand  for  commercial  purposes, 
bringing  a  very  high  price  in  the  fur  market. 

The  otter  cannot  be  said  to  be  a  common  animal,  although  it 
is  found  throughout  the  United  States  and  Canada,  being  rather 
more  plentiful  in  the  cold  northern  localities  than  in  the  south- 
ern latitudes.  It  is  an  amphibious  animal,  and  can  remain  for 
a  long  time  beneath  the  water.  In  size  it  is  larger  than  a  cat, 
and  it  possesses  a  tapering  tail  some  eighteen  inches  in  length. 
Its  fur  is  of  a  rich  brown  color,  and  the  hair  is  of  two  kinds, 
the  one  a  close,  fine,  and  exquisitely  soft  down,  which  lies  next 


Z'/*/* 


■a  -  ""'mm? 


the  skin,  and  which  serves  to  protect  the  animal  from  the  ex- 
tremes of  heat  and  cold,  and  the  other  composed  of  long  shin- 
ing coarser  hairs,  which  permit  the  animal  to  glide  easily  through 
the  water.  In  producing  the  beautiful  otter  furs  of  fashion 
these  long  hairs  are  plucked  out,  leaving  only  the  softer  down 
next  the  hide.  The  food  of  the  otter  mostly  consists  of  fish, 
for  the  pursuit  of  which  he  has  been  admirably  endowed  by 
nature.  His  body  is  lithe  and  supple,  and  his  feet  are  furnished 
with  a  broad  web,  which  connects  the  toes,  and  is  of  infinite  ser- 


THE   OTTER.  187 

vice  in  propelling  the  animal  through  the  water  when  in  search  of 
his  finny  prey.  His  long,  broad  and  flat  tail  serves  as  a  most  effec- 
tual rudder,  and  the  joints  of  his  powerful  legs  are  so  flexible 
as  to  permit  of  their  being  turned  in  almost  any  direction. 

The  habitation  of  the  otter  is  made  in  the  banks  of  the  river 
which  it  frequents,  or  sometimes  in  a  hollow  log  or  crevice  be- 
neath rocks.  The  animal  generally  prefers  to  adopt  and  occupy 
a  natural  hollow  or  deserted  excavation,  rather  than  to  dig  a 
burrow  for  itself.  The  nest  is  composed  of  dry  rushes,  grasses 
and  sticks,  and  the  young,  three  or  four  in  number,  are  pro- 
duced in  early  spring. 

The  track  which  the  otter  makes  in  the  mud  or  snow  is  easily 
distinguished  from  that  of  any  other  animal,  on  account  of  the 
"seal  "or  impression  which  is  made  by  a  certain  ball  on  the 
sole  of  the  foot.  Otter  hunting  is  a  favorite  sport  in  England, 
and  indeed  in  the  northern  parts  of  our  own  country.  Hounds 
are  used  to  pursue  the  animal,  and  on  account  of  the  powerfully 
scented  secretion  with  which  the  creature  is  furnished  by  na- 
ture, its  track  is  readily  followed.  When  attacked,  the  otter  is 
a  fierce  and  terrible  fighter,  biting  and  snapping  with  most 
deadly  energy  and  never  yielding  as  long  as  hfe  remains  in  the 
body.  The  bite  of  an  angry  otter  is  extremely  severe,  and  for 
this  reason  we  would  caution  the  amateur  trapper  on  handling 
the  animal  should  one  be  taken  alive. 

Although  £0  fierce  and  savage  when  attacked,  the  otter  is 
easily  tamed  when  taken  young,  and  can  be  taught  to  catch  fish 
for  the  service  of  its  master,  rather  than  for  the  gratification  of 
its  own  palate. 

In  the  winter  when  the  snow  is  on  the  ground,  the  otter  navi- 
gates by  sliding,  and  when  on  the  ice  he  may  often  be  seen  to 
run  a  few  steps  and  then  throw  himself  on  his  belly  and  slide 
the  distance  of  several  feet.  They  are  very  fond  of  playing  in 
the  snow,  and  make  most  glorious  use  of  any  steep  snow-cover- 
ed bank,  sloping  toward  the  river.  Ascending  to  the  top  of  such 
an  incline  they  throw  themselves  on  the  slippery  surface  and 
thus  slide  swiftly  into  the  water.  This  pastime  is  often  con- 
tinued for  hours,  and  is  taken  advantage  of  in  trapping  the  play- 
ful creatures.  A  short  search  will  reveal  the  place  where  they 
crawl  from  the  water  on  to  the  bank,  and  at  this  spot,  which  will 
generally  be  shallow,  a  steel  trap  should  be  set,  on  the  bed  of 
the  river,  about  four  inches  under  water.  The  trap  should  be 
secured  by  a  stout  chain,  the  latter  being  ringed  to  a  sliding 
pole,  page  145,  which  will  lead  the  animal  when  caught  into  deep 
water.     If  deeu  water  is  not  near  at  hand,  the  spring  pole,  page 


l88  HOW   TO    TRAP. 

144,  may  be  used,  the  object  of  either  being  to  prevent  the  am= 
mal  from  gnawing  off   its  leg  and  thus  making  its  escape. 

The  trap  may  also  be  placed  at  the  top  or  the  slide,  two  or 
three  feet  back  of  the  slope,  a  place  being  hollowed  out  to  re- 
ceive it  and  the  whole  covered  with  snow.  To  make  success 
more  certain  a  log  may  be  laid  on  each  side  of  the  trap,  thus 
forming  an  avenue  in  which  the  animal  will  be  sure  to  run  be- 
fore throwing  itself  on  the  slope.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
handle  nothing  with  the  bare  hands,  as  the  otter  is  very  keen 
scented  and  shy.  Anoint  the  trap  with  a  few  drops  of  fish  oil 
or  otter  m^usk,  see  page  151.  If  none  of  these  are  handy,  ordi- 
nary musk  will  answer  very  well. 

The  trap  may  also  be  set  and  weighted  with  a  heavy  stone 
and  chain,  as  described  for  trapping  the  beaver.  Another 
method  still  is  to  find  some  log  in  the  stream  having  one  end 
projecting  above  water.  Sprinkle  some  musk  on  this  project- 
ing end  and  set  the  trap  on  the  log  in  three  or  four  inches  of 
water,  securing  it  firmly  by  a  chain,  also  beneath  the  water. 

A  rock  which  projects  over  the  stream  may  also  be  utilized  in 
the  same  way  as  seen  in  the  page  title  at  the  opening  of  this 
section.  Smear  the  musk  on  the  edge  which  juts  into  the 
water,  and  secure  the  trap  by  the  chain  as  before.  When  the 
animal  is  caught  he  will  fall  or  jump  into  the  water,  and  the 
weight  of  the  trap  and  chain  will  sink  him.  In  every  case  it  is 
necessary  to  obliterate  every  sign  of  human  presence  by  throw- 
ing water  over  every  foot  print,  and  over  everything  with  which 
the  naked  hands  have  come  in  contact.  Where  the  traps  are 
thus  set  in  the  water  it  should  be  done  while  wading  or  in  a 
boat.  In  the  winter  when  the  ponds  and  rivers  are  frozen  over 
the  otters  make  holes  through  the  ice  at  which  they  come  up  to 
devour  their  prey.  Where  the  water  is  a  foot  deep  beneath  any 
of  these  holes  the  trap  may  be  set  in  the  bottom,  the  chain  be- 
ing secured  to  a  heavy  stone.  When  the  otter  endeavors  to 
emerge  from  the  hole  he  will  press  his  foot  on  the  trap  and  will 
thus  be  caught.  If  the  water  is  deep  beneath  the  hole  the  trap 
may  be  baited  v;ith  a  small  fish  attached  to  the  pan,  and  then 
carefully  lowered  with  its  chain  and  stone  to  the  bottom.  For 
this  purpose  the  Newhouse,  No.  3,  ,  is  best  adapted,  as  the 
otter  is  in  this  case  caught  by  the  head. 

The  beaten  track  of  the  animal  may  often  be  discovered  in 
the  snow  in  the  winter  time,  and  a  trap  carefully  sunk  in  such  a 
furrow  and  covered  so  as  to  resemble  its  surroundings,  will  be 
likely  to  secure  the  first  otter  that  endeavors  to  pass  over  it.  A 
tra;3  set  at  the  mouth  of  the  otter's  burrow  and  carefully  cover- 


THE   MINK.  l8g 

ed  is  also  often  successful,  using  the  sliding  pole,  page  145,  to 
lead  him  into  deep  water. 

Every  trapper  has  his  pet  theories  and  methods  of  trapping  all 
the  different  animals,  and  the  otter  has  its  full  share.  We  have 
given  several  of  the  best  methods  ;  and  any  one  of  them  will 
secure  the  desired  result  of  capture,  and  all  of  them  have  stood 
the  test  of  time  and  experience. 

The  skin  of  the  otter  should  be  removed  whole,  and  the  oper- 
ation may  be  performed  in  the  following  manner :  Slit  down 
the  hind  legs  to  the  vent ;  cut  the  skin  loose  around  the  vent, 
and  slit  up  the  entire  length  of  the  tail,  freeing  it  from  the  bone. 
With  the  aid  of  the  knife  the  skin  should  now  be  peeled  off, 
drawing  it  backward  and  carefully  cutting  around  the  mouth  and 
eyes  before    taking  it  from  the  head. 

With  the  fur  thus  inside,  the  skin  is  ready  for  the  stretcher  as 
described  on  pag::^  273,  and  the  tail  should  be  spread  out  and 
tacked  around  the  edges. 

THE    MINK. 

This  animal,  as  will  be  seen  by  our  illustration,  has  a  long, 
slender  body,  something  like  the  weasel,  to  which  scientific 
family  it  belongs.  It  inhabits  the  greater  part  of  North  Ameri- 
ca, and  is  also  found  abundantly  in  Northern  Europe.  The 
color  of  its  fur  varies  considerably  in  different  individuals,  the 
general  tint  being  a  rich,  dark  brown.  The  chin  and  throat  are 
light  colored,  sometimes  white,  and  this  spot  varies  considera- 
bly in  size  in  different  individuals,  sometimes  extending  down 
on  the  throat  to  a  considerable  distance.  The  total  length  of  the 
animal  is  from  thirteen  to  sixteen  inches,  its  size  being  variable. 

The  fur  of  the  mink  is  excellent  in  quality,  and  has  for  many 
years  been  one  of  the  "fancy  furs"  of  fashion,  a  good  prime 
skin  often  bringing  from  ten  to  twelve  dollars.  The  introduc- 
tion of  the  fur  seal,  however,  and  the  universal  demand  for  this 
as  well  as  otter  fur,  has  somewhat  thrown  the  mink  into  compa- 
rative shade,  although  extra  fine  skins  will  still  command  high 
prices. 

The  mink  is  an  aquatic  animal,  inhabiting  small  rivers  and 
streams,  and  living  somewhat  after  the  manner  of  the  otter. 
It  has  a  most  wide  range  of  diet,  and  will  eat  almost  anything 
which  is  at  all  eatable.  Fishes,  frogs,  and  muskrats  are  his 
especial  delight,  and  he  will  occasionally  succeed  in  pouncing 
upon  a  snipe  or  wild  duck,  which  he  will  greedily  devour.    Craw 


IQO 


HOW   TO   TRAP. 


fish,  snails,  and  water  insects  of  all  kinds  also  come  within  the 
range  of  his  diet,  and  he  sometimes  makes  a  stray  visit  to  some 
neighboring  poultry  yard  to  satisfy  the  craving  of  his  abnormal 
hunger.  A  meal  off  from  his  own  offspring  often  answers  the 
same  purpose ;  and  a  young  chicken  in  the  egg  he  considers  the 
ne  plus  ultra  of  delicacies.  The  voracity  of  this  animal  is  its 
leading  characteristic,  and  is  so  largely  in  excess  of  its  cunning 
or  sagacity  that  it  will  often  run  headlong  into  a  naked  trap. 


Its  sense  of  smell  is  exceedingly  well  developed,  and  through 
this  faculty  it  is  often  enabled  to  track  its  prey  with  ease  and 
certainty.  The  mink  lives  in  burrows,  in  steep  banks,  or  between 
rocks  or  the  roots  of  trees,  and  the  young,  five  or  six  in  number, 
are  brought  forth  in  May. 

The  chief  occupation  of  the  mink  consists  in  perpetual  search 
for  something  to  eat,  and,  when  so  engaged,  he  may  be  seen 
running  along  the  bank  of  the  stream,  peering  into  every  nook 
and  corner,  and  literally  *' leaving  no  stone  unturned"  in  its 
eager  search.  Taking  advantage  of  this  habit,  it  becomes  an 
easy  matter  to  trap  the  greedy  animal.  Set  your  trap,  a  New- 
house  No  2,  in  an  inch  of  water  near  the  edge  of  the  stream, 
and  directly  in  front  of  a  steep  bank  or  rock,  on  which  you  can 
place  your  bait.     The  bait  may  be  a  frog,  fish,  or  head  of  a 


THE   MINK.  191 

bird,  suspended  about  eighteen  inches  above  the  water,  and 
should  be  so  situated  that  in  order  to  reach  it,  the  mink  will  be 
obliged  to  tread  upon  the  trap.  The  trap  may  also  be  set  in 
the  water  and  the  bait  suspended  eighteen  inches  above  it,  by 
the  aid  of  a  switch  planted  in  the  mud  near  the  trap.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  scent  the  bait  with  an  equal  mixture  of  sweet  oil 
and  peppermint,  with  a  little  honey  added.  If  there  is  deep 
water  near,  the  sliding  pole,  page  145,  should  be  used,  and 
if  not,  the  "  spring  pole  "  in  every  case,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
captured  mink  from  becoming  a  prey  to  larger  animals,  and  also 
to  guard  against  his  escape  by  amputation,  which  he  would 
otherwise  most  certainly  accomplish. 

The  trap  may  be  set  on  the  land,  near  the  water's  edge,  bait- 
ing as  just  described,  and  lightly  covered  with  leaves  or  dirt. 
Any  arrangement  of  the  trap  whereby  the  animal  is  obliged  to 
tread  upon  it  in  order  to  secure  the  bait,  will  be  found  effectual. 

The  trap  maybe  set  at  the  foot  of  a  tree,  and  the  bait  fastened 
to  the  trunk,  eighteen  inches  above  it.  A  pen,  such  as  is  de- 
scribed on  page  144,  may  be  constructed,  and  the  trap  and  bait 
arranged  as  there  directed.  Minks  have  their  regular  beaten 
patlis,  and  often  visit  certain  hollow  logs  in  their  runways.  In 
these  logs  they  leave  unmistakable  signs  of  their  presence,  and 
a  trap  set  in  such  a  place  is  sure  of  success. 

Some  trappers  set  a  number  of  traps  along  the  stream  at  in- 
tervals of  several  rods,  connecting  them  by  a  trail,  see  page 
153,  the  mink  being  thus  led  directly  and  almost  certainly  to 
his  destruction.  This  trail  is  made  by  smearing  a  piece  of 
wood  with  the  ^'medicine"  described  at  page  153,  and  drag- 
ging it  on  the  line  of  the  traps.  Any  mink  which  crosses 
this  trail  will  follow  it  to  the  first  trap,  when  he  will,  in  all 
probabihty,  be  captured.  A  dead  muskrat,  crow,  fish,  or  a  piece 
of  fresh  meat  dragged  along  the  line  answers  the  same  purpose. 
The  beaten  tracks  of  the  mink  may  often  be  discovered,  and  a 
trap  set  in  such  a  track  and  covered  with  leaves,  dirt  or  the 
like,  will  often  be  successful. 

Minks  may  also  be  easily  caught  in  the  dead-fall.  Garrote 
trap  or  a  twitch-up,  baiting  with  fish,  muskrat,  flesh,  or  the 
head  of  a  bird,  of  which  the  animal  is  especially  fond.  A  liberal 
use  of  the  "medicine  "  is  also  desirable. 

The  fur  of  the  mink  is  in  its  best  condition  in  the  late  autumn, 
winter,  and  early  spring,  and  the  animal  should  be  skinned  as 
described  for  the  fox. 


192 


HOW  TO   TRAP. 


THE   PINE   MARTEN. 

This  animal  belongs  to  the  tribe  of  "  weasels,"  and  is  closely 
allied  to  the  celebrated  sable,  which  it  greatly  resembles.  The 
pine  marten  is  so  called  because  it  inhabits  the  northern  cli- 
m.ites  where  pine  forests  abound,  and  spends  much  of  its  life 
in  the  trees  in  search  of  its  prey.  Its  general  appearance  is 
truly  represented  in  our  illustration,  its  fur  being  of  a  rich  brown 
color,  with  a  hghter  or  white  patch  on  the  throat.  Its  total 
length,  including  the  tail,  is  about  twenty-eight  or  thirty  inches, 
of  which  the  tail  represents  ten  inches.     It  is  mostly  confined 


to  the  forests  in  the  far  north,  and  is  comparatively  rare  further 
south  than  the  latitude  of  Maine  and  the  lakes.  The  fur  of  the 
pine  marten  is  of  considerable  value,  particularly  if  the  animal 
be  killed  in  the  winter.  A  really  fine  skin  is  but  little  inferior 
to  the  celebrated  sable,  and  is  hardly  distinguishable  from  it. 
The  hair  is  long  and  glossy,  and  the  under  fur  is  beautifully 
soft  and  very  thick.  The  dark  colored  skins  are  the  most 
valuable.  Although  so  nearly  like  the  sable,  the  same  com- 
parison does  not  exist  in  regard  to  their  proportionate  market 
values,  the  marten  fur  bringing  a  much  lower  price. 

The  marten  is  a  shy  and  wary  animal,  withdrawing  itself  as 
far  as  possible  from  the  sight  of  man,  and  building  its  habita- 
tion in  the  tops  of  trees,  often  seizing  on  the  ready  nest  of  some 
squirrel  or  bird,  and  adapting  it  to  its  purposes. 


THE   PINE   MARTEN  193 

It  is  a  night  prowler,  and  in  the  dark  hours  it  traverses  the 
trunks  and  branches  of  the  trees  in  search  of  its  prey.  It 
moves  with  wonderful  stealth  and  activity,  and  is  enabled  by  its 
rapid  and  silent  approach  to  steal  unnoticed  on  many  an  unfor- 
tunate bird  or  squirrel,  seizing  it  in  its  deadly  grip  before  the 
startled  creature  can  think  to  escape.  Coming  across  a  bird's 
nest,  it  makes  sad  havoc  with  the  eggs  or  young,  often  adding 
the  parent  bird  to  his  list  of  victims.  Rabbits,  partridges,  and 
mice  also  fall  into  the  marten's  "  bill  of  fare,"  and  the  list  is 
often  further  increased  by  a  visit  to  a  poultry  yard,  when  the 
animal  murders  and  eats  all  it  can  and  kills  the  rest  for  sport.  In 
pouncing  upon  its  prey,  the  marten  invariably  seizes  its  victim 
by  the  throat,  often  dispatching  the  luckless  creature  with  a 
single  bite. 

The  martens  generally  are  said  to  be  very  susceptible  to 
human  influence  when  taken  young,  and  are  very  lively  in  a  state 
of  domestication.  They  are  among  the  most  graceful  of  ani- 
mals, and  in  place  of  the  disagreeable  scent  which  renders 
many  of  their  tribe  offensive,  this  creature  possesses  an  odor 
which  is  quite  agreeable,  and  for  this  reason  is  often  called  the 
sweet  marten  in  contradistinction  to  the  foul  marten  or  pole  cat 
of  Britain,  which  is  like  unto  our  skunk  in  the  disgusting 
stench  which  it  exhales. 

The  dead-fall  and  Garrote  traps  are  very  successful  in  trap- 
ping the  marten.  They  should  be  set  several  rods  apart,  in  the 
forest  or  on  the  banks  of  streams,  and  a  trail  established  by 
dragging  a  dead  or  roasted  crow,  entrails  of  a  bird,  or  fresh 
meat  from  one  trap  to  another,  as  described  in  relation  to  the 
mink,  page  190.  The  twitch-up  may  also  be  used,  and 
possesses  the  additional  advantage  of  acting  as  a  spring 
pole,  thus  holding  the  captured  victim  out  of  reach  of  larger 
animals,  to  which  it  might  otherwise  become  a  prey.  Any  of 
the  varities  described  under  the  title  of  "twitch-up"  will  an- 
swer the  purpose,  and  a  little  experimenting  will  soon  prove 
which  one  will  be  the  most  successful  for  this  particular  animal. 
The  bait  may  consist  of  a  bird's  or  fowl's  head,  fish,  livei,  or 
any  fresh  meat  or  entrails. 

The  common  box  trap,  page  103,  or  the  box  snare,  page 
56,  may  also  be  used  to  good  purpose,  but  the  former  will 
need  to  be  carefully  watched  lest  the  enclosed  prisoner  gnaw 
his  way  out  and  thus  escape. 

When  the  steel  trap  is  employed,  it  should  be  of  the  size  of 
Newhouse,  No.   ^y^,  set  on  th(i  ground    beneath    some   rock, 


19  h  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

and  covered  with  leaves,  rotten  wood,  or  earth,  and  the  bait  fas- 
tened or  suspended  about  eighteen  inches  above  it,  in  such  a 
position  that  the  animal  will  be  obliged  to  step  upon  the  trap 
in  order  to  reach  it.  An  enclosure  maybe  constructed  of  stones 
piled  together,  the  trap  being  set  and  covered  in  the  opening 
and  the  bait  secured  at  the  back.  A  staked  pen,  such  as  is 
described  on  page  143,  with  the  trap  and  bait  arranged  as  there 
directed,  also  works  well.  Wherever  or  however  the  trap  is 
set,  the  bait  should  be  so  placed  that  the  animal  cannot  possi- 
bly climb  on  any  neighboring  object  to  reach  it.  The  hollow  of 
a  tree  trunk  forms  an  excellent  situation  lor  the  trap,  and  the 
same  hollow  may  also  be  baited  at  the  back  and  a  dead-fall 
constructed  across  its  opening.  The  box  or  barrel  pit-fall, 
described  on  page  127,  is  said  to  be  very  successful  in  trap- 
ping tlie  marten,  always  baiting  it  with  the  platform  secure  for 
a  few  days  before  setting  for  capture.  The  same  methods  di- 
rected for  the  capture  of  the  mink  are  also  useful  in  trapping 
the  marten.  The  animal  should  be  skinned  as  described  for 
the  fox. 

THE  FISHER. 

This  animal  is  classed  among  the  martens,  and  is  principally 
to  be  found  in  Canada  and  the  Northern  United  States,  where 
it  is  known  as  the  black  cat,  or  woodshock.  In  our  natural 
histories  it  is  described  under  the  name  of  the  pekan. 

In  general  habits,  this  species  resembles  the  other  martens, 
but  its  body  inclines  more  to  the  weasel  shape.  The  fur  is  quite 
valuable,  and  much  resembles  the  sable.  Its  color  is  generally 
of  a  greyish  brown,  the  grey  tint  being  found  chiefly  on  the 
back,  neck,  head  and  shoulders,  the  legs,  tail,  and  back  of  the 
neck  being  marked  with  dark  brown.  Like  the  marten,  the 
fisher  prowls  by  night,  frequenting  swamjDy  places  in  quest  of 
food. 

It  builds  its  habitation  in  hollov/  trees,  and  in  burrows, 
which  it  excavates  in  the  banks  of  rivers  or  streams,  and  its 
young  (generally  twins)  are  produced  in  early  spring.  The  trap- 
ping season  for  the  fisher  commences  at  about  the  middle  of 
October,  and  extends  to  the  middle  of  May,  after  which  time 
the  fur  decreases  in  value. 

In  trapping  the  fisher,  the  same  plans  may  be  used  as  for  the 
marten  and  mink,  as  these  animals  much  resemble  each  other 
in  general  habits.     The  steel  trap  arranged  in  an  artificial  or 


THE   SKUNK.  1 95 

natural  enclosure,  or  otherwise  so  set  as  that  the  animal  will  be 
obliged  to  step  on  it  in  order  to  reach  the  bait,  will  be  success- 
ful and  the  use  of  composition  "scent  bait,"  described  on  page 
153  will  be  found  to  enhance  success.  In  every  case  where  the 
steel  trap  is  used  the  spring  pole,  page  144,  should  always  be 
employed,  for  the  reasons  already  described. 

Dead-falls,  garrotes,  box-traps,  twitch-ups,  or  pit-falls,  may  all 
be  employed  to  good  advantage.  Bait  with  a  fish  or  bird,  or 
fresh  meat  of  any  kind,  and  connect  the  various  traps  by  a  trail, 
as  described  for  the  mink  and  marten. 

Remove  the  skin  as  directed  for  the  fox,  and  stretch  as  de- 
scribed on  page  273. 

THE  SKUNK. 

This  disgusting  animal  has  won  the  unenviable  but  deserving 
reputation  of  being  the  most  foul-smelling  creature  on  the  face 
of  the  globe.  He  belongs  to  the  weasel  tribe,  and  all  these  ani- 
mals are  noted  for  certain  odors  which  they  possess,  but  the 
skunk  is  pre-eminent  in  the  utter  noisomeness  of  the  horrid  efflu- 
vium which  it  exhales. 

This  scent  proceeds  from  a  liquid  secretion  which  collects  in 
a  gland  beneath  the  insertion  of  the  tail,  and  the  animal  has 
the  power  to  eject  or  retain  it  at  will. 

It  must  have  been  given  to  the  creature  as  a  means  of 
defence,  for  there  seems  to  be  no  animal  that  can  withstand  the 
influence  of  its  fetid  stench.  Dogs  are  trained  to  hunt  the  ani- 
mal, but  until  they  have  learned  from  experience  the  right 
method  of  attacking  the  fetid  game,  and  have  discovered  the 
whereabouts  of  the  animal's  magazine  of  amunition,  they  are  of 
little  use  to  the  hunter,  and  are  only  too  glad  to  plunge  into 
some  neighboring  brook,  or  roll  in  some  near  earth,  in  hopes 
of  ridding  themselves  of  the  stench  which  almost  distracts 
them.  The  offensive  propensities  of  the  skunk  are  only  ex- 
ercised when  the  animal  is  alarmed  or  frightened.  There  are 
generally  certain  "  premonitory  symptoms  "  of  attack  which  the 
creature  usually  exhibits,  and  it  is  well  to  retire  from  his 
"  shooting  range  "  as  soon  as  they  are  observed. 

When  the  animal  is  ready  to  discharge  his  battery,  he  sud- 
denly elevates  his  large  bushy  tail,  over  his  body,  and  turns  his 
back  on  his  enemy.  The  result  of  the  discharge  fills  the  air  for 
a  great  distance  around,  and  man  and  beast  fly  from  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  indescribable  and  fetid  effluvium,  which  fairly 
makes  one's  nostrils  ache. 


196 


HOW   TO   TRAP. 


A  single  drop  of  this  disgusting  secretion  on  tlie  clothes  is 
enough  to  scent  the  whole  garment,  and  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  rid  the  tainted  fabric  from  the  odor. 

It  is  extremely  acrid  in  quality,  and  if  a  very  small  quantity 
fall  upon  the  eyes,  it  is  very  apt  to  produce  permanent  blind- 
ness. 

Dogs,  in  their  first  experiences  with  the  skunk,  are  frequently 
thus  blinded,  and  there   are   well  authenticated  instances   of 


human  beings  who  have  been  deprived  of  their  sight  through 
their  close  proximity  to  an  infuriated  skunk. 

The  writer,. in  his  extreme  youth,  learned,  through  dear  expe- 
rience, the  putrid  qualities  of  this  noisome  quadruped.  It  Avas 
on  one  bright  Sunday,  in  New  England,  and  he  was  out  in  his 
Sunday  clothing,  gathering  wild  strawberries.  He  suddenly 
discovered  a  pretty  little  playful  animal  with  bushy  tail,  romp- 
ing in  the  grass  near  him.  The  creature  was  seemingly  gentle, 
and  showed  no  inclination  to  run  away,  and  the  pet-loving  nature 
of  the  writer  prompted  an  irresistible  desire  to  capture  so 
pretty  a  creature.  Encouraged  by  its  gentle  manner,  he  eagerly 
ran  towards  the  tempting  prize,  and  grasping  it  by  the  bushy 
tail,  v>'hich  the  animal  had  raised  perpendicularly,  as  if  for  a 


THE   SKUNK. 


197 


handle,  the  pretty  creature  was  locked  in  the  affectionate  em- 
brace of  its  youthful  admirer.  But  alas  !  he  soon  repented  his 
rashness,  and  the  treacherous  "pet"  was  quickly  flung  away, 
leaving  its  victim  in  such  a  foul  state  of  overwhelming  astonish- 
ment as  can  be  more  easily  imagined  than  descril^ed. 

Every  article  of  clothing  worn  on  that  eventful  Sunday  had 
to  be  buried,  and  it  took  weeks  of  Sundays  before  the  odor  . 
could  be  thoroughly  eradicated  from  the  hair  and  skin  of  the 
individual  who  wore  those  Sunday  garments.  After  this  adven- 
ture, the  youth  became  more  cautious  with  respect  to  pretty  lit- 
tle playful  animals,  with  black  and  white  fur  and  bushy  tails. 

There  is  hardly  a  farmer  in  the  country  but  what  has  had 
some  amusing  or  serious  experience  with  the  skunk,  and  almost 
every  trapper  has,  at  one  time  or  another,  served  as  a  target  for 
his  shooting  propensities.  Natural  histories  are  replete  with 
anecdotes  of  which  this  animal  is  the  mephitic  hero,  and  vol- 
umes might  be  filled  to  the  glory  of  his  strong-smelling  qual- 
ities. 

Perhaps  it  is  through  the  prejudice  of  the  writer  that  he  can- 
not enthusiastically  recommend  the  skunk  as  a  domestic  pet ; 
but  it  is  neverthless  asserted,  on  good  authority,  that  these  ani- 
mals,-when  reared  from  the  young,  become  very  interesting  and 
f  layful  in  the  household,  and  completely  shut  down  on  their 
objectionable  faculties. 

Our  illustration  gives  a  very  good  idea  of  the  animal,  and  it 
is  so  unHke  any  other  creature  that  a  further  description  will  not 
be  necessary.  The  prevaihng  colors  are  white  and  black ;  but 
these  vary  much  in  proportion,  the  animal  sometimes  being 
almost  totally  white,  or  altogether  black.  The  fur  is  long,  and 
comparatively  coarse,  being  intermixed  with  long,  glossy  hairs, 
and  is  most  valuable  in  the  black  animal.  The  body  of  the 
creature  is  about  a  foot  and  a  half  in  length,  exclusive  of  the 
tail,  which  adds  about  fourteen  inches  more. 

The  skunk  is  generally  nocturnal  in  its  habits,  secreting  itself 
during  the  day  in  hollow  trees,-  or  crevices  in  rocks,  or  wood- 
piles. At  night  it  ventures  forth  in  quest  of  its  food,  which 
consists  chiefly  of  grasshoppers,  worms  and  other  insects,  wild 
fruit  and  such  small  animals  in  the  shape  of  frogs,  mice  and 
birds  as  it  can  capture.  The  poultry  yard  often  offers  an  irre- 
sistible temptation,  and  both  fowls  and  eggs  often  serve  to  ap- 
pease his  appetite. 

The  skunk  is  common  throughout  the  greater  part  of  North 
A.merica,  and  in  many  localities   the   numbers  increase    very 
14 


198  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

rapidly  unless  checked.  The  young  are  brought  forth  in  bur- 
rows or  holes  in  rocks  during  April  or  May,  and  are  from  six  to 
nine  in  number. 

"  Skunk  fur  "  does  not  sound  well  when  thought  of  in  con- 
nection with  a  set  of  fashionable  furs  ;  and  few*' this  reason  the 
pelt  of  this  animal  is  dignified  by  the  name  of  Alaska  sable  by 
all  dealers  in  the  article.  When  known  by  this  fancy  title  it 
suddenly  becomes  a  very  popular  addition  to  fashion's  winter 
wardrobe,  and  is  one  of  the  leading  furs  which  are  exported  to 
meet  the  demand  of  foreign  countries.  Foul  as  the  animal  is, 
it  seldom  soils  its  own  fur  with  its  offensive  fluid  ;  and  when 
carefully  skinned  the  fur  is  as  saleable  as  that  of  any  other 
animal. 

The  Skunk  is  trapped  in  a  variety  of  ways  ;  and  as  the  animal 
is  not  cunning,  no  great  skill  is  required.  The  steel  trap  is 
most  commonly  used,  as  other  wooden  varieties,  box  traps  or 
dead-falls,  for  instance,  are  apt  to  absorb  and  retain  the  stench 
of  the  animal.  In  using  the  steel  trap  the  size  No.  2  shoukl 
be  taken.  It  may  be  set  at  the  entrance  to  their  burrows  or  in 
their  feeding  grounds.  It  should  be  covered  with  loose  earth 
or  chaff,  or  some  other  light  substance,  and  baited  with  small 
bits  of  meat,  dead  mice,  or  eggs  placed  around  it.  The  enclo- 
closure  illustrated  on  page  143  also  answers  well,  and  in  all 
cases  the  spring  pole,  page  144,  should  be  used.  The  dead-fall, 
page  107,  is  often  employed,  and  the  twitch-up,  page  43,  is  a 
particularly  effective  contrivance  for  their  capture,  often  pre- 
venting the  evil  consequences  of  the  odor  by  causing  instant 
dislocation  of  the  neck,  and  this  without  injuring  the  fur.  A 
stroke  upon  the  backbone  near  the  tail,  by  producing  paralysis 
of  the  parts,  also  prevents  the  animal  from  using  his  offensive 
powers,  and  a  dead-fall  so  constructed  as  to  fall  upon  the  animal 
at  this  part  will  accomplish  the  same  effect.  To  manage  this  it 
is  only  necessary  to  place  the  bait  far  back  in  the  enclosure,  so 
that  the  skunk  on  reaching  it  will  bring  the  rear  portion  of  his 
body  beneath  the  suspended  log.  The  scent  of  the  skunk  is  as 
we  have  said,  almost  ineradicable,  but  we  would  recommend 
chloride  of  lime  as  the  most  effectual  antidote. 

It  is  also  said  by  some  trappers  that  the  odor  may  be  dissi- 
pated by  packing  the  garment  in  fresh  -hemlock  boughs,  letting 
it  thus  remain  for  a  couple  of  days.  This  is  certainly  a  valua- 
ble hint  if  true,  and  is  well  worth  remembering. 

For  skinning  the  skunk,  see  Beaver,  Otter  and  Fox. 


THE  WOLVERINE. 
THE  WOLVERINE. 


199 


This,  one  of  the  most  ferocious  as  well  as  detestable  of 
American  animals,  is  principally  found  in  British  America  and 
the  upper  portion  of  the  United  States.  It  has  won  a  world 
wide  reputation  for  its  fierceness  and  voracity,  and  on  this  ac- 
count is  popularly  known  as  the  Glutton.  It  is  not  confined  to 
America,  but  is  also  found  in  Siberia  and  Northern  Europe. 


The  general  appearance  of  this  animal,  ugly  in  disposition  as 
in  appearance,  is  truthfully  given  in  our  illustration.  It  is  not 
unlike  a  small  bear  in  looks,  and  was  formerly  classed  among 
that  genus. 

The  general  color  of  the  wolverine  is  dark  brown.  The 
muzzle,  as  far  back  as  the  eye-brows,  is  black,  and  the  immense 
paws  partake  of  the  same  hue.     The  claws  of  the  animal  are 


200  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

long  and  almost  white,  forming  a  singular  contrast  to  the  jetty 
fur  of  the  feet.  So  large  are  the  feet  of  this  animal,  and  so 
powerful  the  claws,  that  a  mere  look  at  them  will  tell  the  story 
of  their  death  dealing  quaUties,  a  single  stroke  from  one  of  them 
often  being  sufficient  for  a  mortal  wound.  Although  the  wol- 
verine is  not  as  large  as  the  bear,  its  foot  prints  in  the  snow  are 
often  mistaken  for  those  of  that  creature,  being  nearly  of  the 
same  size. 

The  glutton  feeds  largely  on  the  smaller  quadrupeds,  and  is  a 
most  determined  foe  to  the  beaver  during  the  summer  months  ; 
the  ice-hardened  walls  of  their  houses  serving  as  a  perfect  pro* 
tection  against  his  attacks  in  the  v/inter  time. 

To  the  trapper  of  the  north  the  wolverine  is  a  most  detested 
enemy,  following  the  rounds  of  the  traps  and  either  detaching 
the  baits  or  tearing  away  the  dead  animals  which  have  fallen  a 
prey  to  them.  The  trapper's  entire  circuit  will  be  thus  followed 
in  a  single  night,  and  where  the  veritable  "glutton"  does  not 
care  to  devour  its  victim  it  will  satisfy  its  ferocious  instinct  by 
scratching  it  in  pieces,  leaving  the  mutilated  remains  to  tell  the 
story  of  its  nocturnal  visit. 

The  wolverine  is  a  dangerous  foe  to  many  animals  larger 
than  itself,  and  by  the  professional  hunter  it  is  looked  upon  as 
an  ugly  and  dangerous  customer. 

There  are  several  methods  of  trapping  this  horrid  creature, 
and  in  many  localities  successful  trapping  of  other  animals  will 
be  impossible  without  first  ridding  the  neighborhood  of  the 
wolverines.  Dead-falls  of  large  size  will  be  found  to  work  suc- 
cessfully, baiting  with  the  body  of  some  small  animal,  such  as  a 
rat  or  squirrel.  A  piece  of  cat,  beaver  or  muskrat  flesh  is  also 
excellent,  and  by  slightly  scenting  with  castoreum  success 
will  be  made  sure.  Several  of  these  traps  may  be  set  at  inter- 
vals, and  a  trail  made  by  dragging  a  piece  of  smoked  beaver 
meat  between  them.  The  gun  trap,  as  described  on  page  20, 
will  also  do  good  service  in  exterminating  this  useless  and 
troublesome  animal. 

Steel  traps  of  size  No. 3or4are  commonly  used  to  good 
purpose.  They  may  be  arranged  in  any  of  the  various  meth- 
ods already  described,  the  plan  of  the  enclosure,  page  143,  being 
particularly  desirable.  In  all  cases  the  trap  should  be  covered 
with  leaves,  moss  or  the  hke,  and  the  bait  slightly  scented  with 
castoreum.  Like  all  voracious  animals,  the  perpetual  greed  of 
the  wolverine  completely  overbalances  its  caution,  and  thus 
renders  its  capture  an  easy  task. 


THE   OPOSSUM. 


The  home  of  the  animal  is  generally  in  a  crevice  or  cave  be- 
tween rocks,  and  its  young,  two  or  three  in  number,  are  brought 
forth  in  May. 

In  removing  the  skin,  it  may  be  ripped  up  the  belly,  or  taken 
off  whole,  as  described  for  the  fox. 


THE    OPOSSUM. 


The  opossum  is  found  more  or  less  throughout  nearly  all  the 
United  States.     In  size  it  equals  a  large  cat,  the  tail  being  aboat 


nfteen  inches  long,  very  flexible  and  covered  with  scales.     The 
general  color  of  the  fur  is  irravish-whitc,  slisfhtlv  tinned  with  vel- 


202  HOW   TO    TRAP. 

low,  and  the  legs  are  of  a  brownish  hue,  which  color  also  sur- 
rounds the  eyes  to  some  extent. 

The  fur  is  comparatively  soft  and  wooly,  and  thickly  sprinkled 
with  long  hairs,  white  at  the  base  and  brown  at  the  tips.' 

The  nature  and  habits  of  the  animal  are  very  interesting.  Its 
nest  is  made  in  some  sheltered  hollow  in  an  old  fallen  or  live 
tree,  or  beneath  overhanging  roots  or  rocks,  and  composed  of 
moss  and  dead  leaves.  The  young  are  produced  in  several  lit- 
ters during  the  year,  and  when  born  are  transferred  by  the 
mother  to  a  pouch  situated  in  the  lower  front  portion  of  her 
body.  Here  they  remain  and  are  nourished  by  the  parent  until 
they  are  five  weeks  old,  at  which  time  they  emerge  and  travel 
with  their  mother,  and  their  little  ring  tails  do  them  good  ser- 
vice in  holding  fast  to  their  guardian.  It  is  an  amusing  sight  to 
see  a  family  of  young  'possums  thus  linked  together,  and  so  "  at- 
tached to  each  other." 

The  opossum  is  a  voracious  and  destructive  animal,  prowling 
about  during  the  hours  of  darkness  and  prying  into  every  nook 
and  corner  in  hope  of  finding  something  that  may  satisfy  the 
cravings  of  imperious  hunger.  Rats,  mice,  nuts,  berries,  birds, 
insects  and  eggs  are  all  devoured  by  this  animal ;  and  when  not 
content  with  these  he  does  not  hesitate  to  insinuate  himself 
into  the  poultry  yard,  and  make  a  meal  on  the  fowls  and  young 
chickens.  His  fondness  for  fruit  and  Indian  corn  often  leads 
him  to  commit  great  havoc  among  plantations  and  fruit  trees,  and 
his  appetite  for  the  fruit  of  the  persimmon  tree  is  proverbial. 
While  feeding  on  these  fruits  he  frequently  hangs  by  his  tail,  as 
seen  in  our  illustration,  gathering  the  persimmons  with  his  fore 
paws  and  eating  them  while  thus  suspended.  He  is  a  most  agile 
climber,  and  his  tenacity  and  terminal  resources  in  this  direction 
are  admirably  depicted  in  that  well  known  Methodist  sermon,  as 
follows  :  "  An'  you  may  shake  one  foot  loose,  but  'tothers  thar ; 
an'  you  may  shake  all  his  feet  loose,  but  he  laps  his  tail  around 
the  Hm'  an'  he  clings  forever." 

He  is  an  adept  at  feigning  death,  "playing  'possum"  so  skil- 
fully as  frequently  to  deceive  an  expert. 

"'Possums"  are  hunted  in  the  Southern  States  much  after  the 
manner  of  coons ;  and  to  the  negroes  a  "  'possum  hunt "  signi- 
fies most  unbounded  sport. 

Though  cunning  in  many  ways,  the  opossum  is  singularly 
simple  in  others.  There  is  hardly  any  animal  more  easily  cap- 
tured ;  for  it  will  walk  into  the  clumsiest  of  traps,  and  permit 
itself  to  be  ensnared  by  a  device  at  which  an  American  rat 
would  look  with  utter  contempt. 


THE   WOODCHITCK.  203 

The  dead-fall,  garrote,  or  stout  snare  may  all  be  employed, 
bemg  baited  v/ith  any  of  the  substances  already  described.  The 
steel  trap  2>^  or  3  is  most  commonly  used,  being  set  in  the 
haunts  of  the  animal,  and  slightly  scented  with  musk. 

See  Fox  and  Beaver,  for  directions  for  skinning,  stretching, 
etc.,  etc. 

THE   RABBIT. 

The  rabbit  or  "cotton  tail,"  as  he  is  familiarly  termed,  is 
too  well-known  to  need  any  description  here.  From  Maine  to 
Texas  our  woods  abound  with  these  fleet-footed  little  creatures, 
of  which  there  are  several  American  species.  They  are  the 
swiftest  of  all  American  quadrupeds,  and  have  been  known  to 
clear  over  twenty  feet  in  a  single  leap.  They  are  all  natural  bur- 
rowers,  although  they  often  forego  the  trouble  of  excavating  a 
home  when  one  can  be  found  already  made,  and  which  can  be 
easily  modified  or  adapted  to  their  purposes.  The  common 
rabbit  of  New  England  often  makes  its  home  or  "form," 
beneath  a  pile  of  brush  or  logs,  or  in  crevices  in  rocks.  Here  it 
brings  forth  its  young,  of  which  there  are  often  three  or  four 
litters  a  year.  The  creature  becomes  a  parent  at  a  very  early 
age,  and  by  the  time  that  a  rabbit  is  a  year  old  it  may  have 
attained  the  dignity  of  a  grand  parent. 

The  food  of  the  rabbit  consists  of  grasses,  bark,  leaves, 
bulbs,  young  twigs,  buds,  berries  and  the  like,  and  of  cultivated 
vegetables  of  all  kinds,  when  opportunity  favors.  When  sur- 
prised in  the  woods  it  manifests  its  alarm  by  violently  striking 
the  ground  with  its  feet,  causing  the  j^eculiar  sound  so  often 
noticed  at  their  first  jump.  The  animal  is  fond  of  pursuing  a 
beaten  path  in  the  woods,  and  is  often  snared  at  such  places. 
Its  enemies,  beside  man,  are  the  lynx,  and  other  carnivorous 
animals,  hawks,  owls,  and  even  the  domestic  cat. 

The  rabbit  is  a  favorite  game  with  all  amateur  sportsmen, 
and  the  devices  used  in  its  capture  are  multitudinous.  It  is  by 
no  means  a  difficult  animal  to  trap,  and  a  glance  through  the 
second  and  fourth  sections  of  our  book,  will  reveal  many  ingen- 
ious snares  and  other  contrivances,  commonly  and  successfully 
used. 

The  Box  trap,  page  103,  is  perhaps  the  most  universal  exam- 
ple of  rabbit  trap,  but  the  Self-setting  trap,  page  no,  and 
Double-ender,  page  109,  are  also  equally  effective  where  the 
animal  is  desired  to  be  taken  alive.  If  this  is  not  an  object, 
the  snare  is  to  be  recommended  as  simple  in  construction  and 
sure  in  its  result. 


204  HOW    TO    TRAP. 

The  above  constitute  the  only  devices  commonly  used  iot 
the  capture  of  the  rabbit,  the  steel  trap  being  dispensed  with. 
On  page  109  will  be  found  additional  remarks  concerning  the 
rabbit  and  many  hints  no  baiting,  etc.,  are  also  given  under  the 
heads  of  the  various  traps  above  alluded  to. 

The  skin  of  the  rabbit  is  very  thin  and  tender,  and  should 
be  carefully  removed,  either  as  described  for  the  fox,or  in  tlie 
ordinary  method,  by  incision  up  the  belly.  Full  directions  for 
curing  and  tanning  the  skins  will  be  found  under  its  proper 
head  in  a  later  portion  of  this  work. 

THE  WOOD-CHUCK. 

This  animal  also  called  the  marmot,  is  so  well-known  to  most 
of  our  readers,  that  a  detailed  description  will  not  be  necessary, 
suffice  it  to  say  that  the  general  color  is  brownish  grey  above, 
changing  to  reddish  brown  on  the  under  parts.  The  head,  tail 
and  feet  partaking  of  a  darker  color.  The  length  of  the  animal 
is  about  a  foot  and  a-half,  exclusive  of  the  tail,  which  is  four 
inches  long. 

The  woodchuck  is  a  clumsy  looking  animal,  and  anything 
but  active  in  its  movements.  It  is  very  unintelligent,  and  is 
always  too  ready  to  use  its  powerful  teeth  on  the  hand  of  any 
one  who  may  attempt  to  handle  it.  It  is  naturally  a  timid 
animal,  but  when  cornered  or  brought  to  bay,  it  fights  most 
desperately. 

The  woodchuck  is  an  expert  excavator,  and  where  the 
animals  exist  in  large  numbers  great  damage  is  done  by  their 
united  burrowing.  They  generally  remain  in  their  burrows 
during  the  day,  only  venturing  out  casually  to  see  what  is  going 
on,  and  keeping  near  their  entrance.  Towards  evening  they 
start  out  to  feed,  devouring  certain  grasses  and  weeds,  and 
also  pumpkins  and  green  corn  with  avidity,  ever  and  anon 
sitting  upright  on  their  haunches,  to  see  if  the  coast  is  clear. 
In  case  they  are  surprised  in  their  meal,  they  hurry  home  in  a 
pell-mell  sort  of  a  way,  giving  as  much  the  appearance  of  roll- 
ing as  running,  but,  nevertheless,  getting  over  the  ground  with 
fair  speed  for  such  an  unwieldly  animal.  The  skin  is  loose  and 
very  tough,  and  possesses  no  commercial  value,  being  princi- 
pally used  for  whiplashes.  Their  burrows  are  generally  on  the 
slope  of  a  hill,  and  often  at  the  foot  of  a  rock  or  tree.  These 
tunnels  vary  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  sloping  down- 
ward from  the  opening,  afterward  taking  an  upward  turn  and 
terminating  in  a  roomy  chamber,  in  which  the   animal  sleeps  iu 


THE   GOPHER.  205 

winter  and  where  the  young  from  three  to  eight  in  number  are 
brought  forth.  The  woodchuck  is  found  throughout  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  United  States,  and  is  especially  abundant  in 
New  England,  where  it  is  a  decided  nuisance.  It  is  found  as 
far  south  as  Tennessee,  and  westward  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  flesh  of  the  woodchuck  is  by  many  much  esteemed  as 
food,  particularly  in  the  Fall.  When  used  for  this  purpose,  the 
animal  should  be  skinned  and  carefully  cleaned  immediately 
after  death,  taking  especial  care  to  remove  the  masses  of  fat 
which  lie  inside  of  the  legs,  as  these,  if  allowed  to  remain,  are 
sure  to  taint  the  flesh  in  cooking. 

The  animals  are  easily  caught  by  setting  the  traps  at  the 
entrance  of  their  burrows,  and  carefully  covering  them 
with  loose  earth,  no  bait  being  required.  They  may  also 
be  captured  by  the  aid  of  a  spring-pole,  with  noose  attached, 
the  pole  being  bent  down  and  caught  under  a  notched  stick, 
and  the  noose  being  arranged  at  the  opening  of  the  burrow, 
see  page  43,  the  Woodchuck  in  passing  in  or  out  will  become 
entangled  in  the  noose,  and  in  his  efforts  to  escape  the  pole 
will  be  loosened  from  the  peg,  thus  lifting  the  animal  in  mid- 
air. Woodchucks  are  also  sometimes  drowned  out  of  their 
holes,  and  the  turtle  is  often  put  to  good  use  for  the  purpose  of 
smoking  the  animals  from  their  subterranean  dwellings.  A 
ball  of  wicking  saturated  with  kerosene  is  attached  by  a  wire 
to  the  tail  of  the  reptile.  When  the  ball  is  ignited  the  creature 
is  introduced  into  the  entrance  of  the  hole,  and  of  course  in 
fleeing  from  its  fiery  pursuer  it  traverses  the  full  length  of  the 
burrow,  and  as  another  matter  of  course  drives  out  its  other 
occupants,  which  are  shot  or  captured  as  they  emerge. 

The  woodchunk's  skin  is  generally  taken  off  as  described 
for  the  muskrat,  and  stretched  accordingly. 

THE   GOPHER. 

This  remarkable  little  animal  somewhat  resembles  the  Mole 
in  its  general  appearance  and  habits.  It  is  also  commonly 
known  as  the  Canada  Pouched  Rat,  and  is  principally  found 
west  of  the  Mississippi  and  northward.  It  is  a  burrowing  ani- 
mal, and  like  the  Mole  drives  its  subterranean  tunnels  in  all  di- 
rections, throwing  up  little  hillocks  at  regular  intervals  of  from 
five  to  twenty  feet.  Its  body  is  thick  set  and  clumsy  and  about 
ten  inches  long,  and  its  Mole -like  claws  are  especially  adapted 
Its  food  consists  of  roots  and  vegetables,  and  its 


2o6  HOW   TO    TRAP. 

long  and  projecting  incisors  are  powerful  agents  in  cutting  the 
roots  which  cross  its  path  in  making  its  burrow.  The  most 
striking  characteristic  of  the  animal,  and  that  from  which  it 
takes  its  name,  consists  in  the  large  cheek  pouches  which  hang 
from  each  side  of  the  mouth  and  extend  back  to  the  shoulders. 
They  are  used  as  receptacles  of  food  which  the  animal  hurriedly 
gathers  when  above  ground,  afterward  returning  to  its  burrow 
to  enjoy  its  feast  at  its  leisure.  It  was  formerly  very  commonly 
and  erroneously  believed  that  the  Gopher  used  its  pouches  in 
conveying  the  earth  from  its  burrow,  and  this  is  generally  sup- 
posed at  the  present  day,  but  it  is  now  known  that  the  animal 
uses  these  pockets  only  for  the  conveyance  of  its  food. 

The  color  of  the  fur  is  reddish-brown  on  the  upper  parts, 
fading  to  ashy-brown  on  the  abdomen,  and  the  feet  are  white. 

In  making  its  tunnels,  the  dirt  is  brought  to  the  surface, 
thus  making  the  little  mounds  after  the  manner  of  the  mole. 
After  having  dug  its  tunnel  for  several  feet  the  distance  be- 
comes so  great  as  to  render  this  process  impossible,  and  the  old 
hole  is  carefully  stopped  up  and  a  new  one  made  at  the  newly 
excavated  end  of  the  tunnel,  the  animal  continuing  on  in  its  la- 
bors and  dumping  from  the  fresh  orifice.  These  mounds  of 
earth  occur  at  intervals  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  al- 
though no  hole  can  be  discovered  beneath  them,  they  neverthe- 
less serve  to  indicate  the  track  of  the  burrow,  which  lies  several 
inches  beneath. 

The  Gopher  is  a  great  pest  to  western  cultivators,  and  by  its 
root  feeding  and  undermining  propensities  does  entensive  in- 
jury to  crops  generally.  They  may  be  successfully  trapped  in 
the  following  manner :  Strike  a  line  betv/een  the  two  most  re- 
cent earth  mounds,  and  midway  between  them  remove  a  piece 
of  the  sod.  By  th-e  aid  of  a  trowel  or  a  sharp  stick  the  burrow 
may  now  be  reached.  Insert  your  hand  in  the  tunnel  and  en- 
large the  interior  sufficiently  to  allow  the  introduction  of  No.  (o) 
steel  trap.  Set  the  trap  flatly  in  the  bottom  of  the  burrow,  and 
then  laying  a  piece  of  shingle  or  a  few  sticks  across  the  excava- 
tion replace  the  sod.  Several  traps  may  be  thus  set  in  the  bur- 
rows at  considerable  distances  apart,  and  a  number  of  tlie  ani- 
mals thus  taken.  The  traps  are  sometimes  inserted  in  the  bur- 
rows from  the  hillocks,  by  first  finding  the  hole  and  then  enlarg- 
ing it  by  inserting  the  arm  and  digging  with  the  hand  beneath. 
The  former  method,  however,  is  preferable. 

The  skin  of  the  Gopher  may  be  pulled  off  the  body  either  by 
cutting  up  the  hind  legs,  as  described  in  reference  to  the  Fox, 


THE    MOLE.  207 

or  by  making  the  incision  from  the  lower  jaw  down  the  neck,  as 
decided  for  thp  muskrat,  a   simple  board  stretcher  being  used. 

THE   MOLE. 

Of  all  the  mammalia  the  Mole  is  entitled  to  take  the  first  place 
in  the  list  of  burrowers.  This  extraordinary  creature  does  not 
merely  dig  tunnels  in  the  ground  and  sit  at  the  end  of  them,  as 
is  the  case  with  many  annuals,  but  it  forms  a  complicated  sub- 
terranean dwelling  place  with  chambers,  passages  and  other  ar- 
rangements of  wonderful  completeness.  It  has  regular  roads 
leading  to  its  feeding  grounds  ;  estabhshes  a  system  of  commu- 
nication as  elaborate  as  that  of  a  modern  railway,  or,  to  be  more 
correct,  as  that  of  the  subterranean  network  of  the  sewers  of  a 
city.  It  is  an  animal  of  varied  accomphshments.  It  can  run 
tolerably  fast,  it  can  fight  like  a  bull-dog,  it  can  capture  prey 
under  or  above  ground,  it  can  swim  fearlessly,  and  it  can  sink 
wells  for  the  purpose  of  quenching  its  thirst.  Take  the  mole 
out  of  its  proper  sphere,  and  it  is  awkward  and  clumsy  as  the  sloth 
when  'placed  on  level  ground,  or  the  seal  when  brought  ashore. 
Replace  it  in  the  familiar  earth  and  it  becomes  a  different  being, 
full  of  life  and  energy,  and  actuated  by  a  fiery  activity  which 
seems  quite  inconsistent  with  its  dull  aspect  and  seemingly  in- 
ert form. 

We  all  know  that  the  mole  burrows  under  the  ground,  raising 
at  intervals  the  little  hillocks  or  "  mole  hills  "  with  which  we  are 
so  familiar  ;  but  most  of  us  little  know  the  extent  or  variety  of 
its  tunnels,  or  that  the  animal  works  on  a  regular  system  and 
does  not  burrow  here  and  there  at  random.  How  it  manages  to 
form  its  burrows  in  such  admirably  straight  lines,  is  not  an  easy 
problem,  because  it  is  always  done  in  black  darkness,  and  we 
know  of  nothing  which  can  act  as  a  guide  to  the  animal.  As 
for  ourselves  and  other  eye-possessing  creatures,  the  feat  of 
walking  in  a  straight  line  with  closed  eyelids  is  almost  an  im- 
possibility, and  every  swimmer  knows  the  difficulty  of  keeping 
a  straight  course  under  water,  even  with  the  use  of  his  eyes. 

The  ordinary  mole  hills,  so  plentiful  in  our  fields,  present 
nothing  particularly  worthy  of  notice.  They  are  merely  the 
shafts  through  which  the  quadruped  miner  ejects  the  material 
which  it  has  scooped  out,  as  it  drives  its  many  tunnels  through 
the  soil,  and  if  they  be  carefully  opened  after  the  rain  has  con- 
soHdated  the  heap  of  loose  material,  nothing  more  will  be  dis- 
covered than  a  simple  hole  leading  into  the  tunnel.     But  let  us 


208  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

strike  into  one  of  the  large  tunnels,  as  any  mole  catcher  will 
teach  us,  and  follow  it  up  to  the  real  abode  of  the  animal.  The 
hill  under  which  this  domicile  is  hidden,  is  of  considerable  size, 
but  is  not  very  conspicuous,  being  always  placed  under  the 
shelter  of  a  tree,  shrub,  or  a  suitable  bank,  and  would  scarcely 
be  discovered  but  by  a  practiced  eye.  The  subterranean  abode 
within  the  hillock  is  so  remarkable  that  it  involuntarily  reminds 
the  observer  of  the  well-known  "maze,"  which  has  puzzled  the 
earliest  years  of  youth  throughout  many  generations.  The 
central  apartment,  or  "  keep,"  if  we  so  term  it,  is  a  nearly 
spherical  chamber,  the  roof  of  which  is  almost  on  a  level  with 
the  earth  around  the  hill,  and  therefore  situated  at  a  consider- 
able depth  from  the  apex  of  the  heap.  Around  this  keep  are 
driven  two  circular  passages  or  galleries,  one  just  level  with 
the  ceiling  and  the  other  at  some  height  above.  Five  short 
descending  passages  connect  the  galleries  with  each  other,  but 
the  only  entrance  into  the  keep  is  from  the  upper  gallery,  out  of 
which  three  passages  lead  into  the  ceiHng  of  the  keep.  It  will 
be  seen  therefore  that  when  the  mole  enters  the  house  from 
one  of  its  tunnels,  it  has  first  to  get  into  the  lower  gallery  to 
ascend  thence  into  the  upper  gallery,  and  so  descend  into  the 
central  chamber.  There  is,  however,  another  entrance  into  the 
keep  from  below.  A  passage  dips  downward  from  the  centre 
of  the  chamber,  and  then,  taking  a  curve  upwards,  opens  into 
one  of  the  larger  burrows  or  high  roads,  as  they  may  be  fit^y 
termed.  It  is  a  noteworthy  fact  that  the  high  roads,  of  which 
there  are  several  radiating  in  different  directions,  never  open 
into  the  gaJlery  opposite  one  of  the  entrances  into  the  upper 
gallery.  The  mole  therefore  is  obliged  to  go  to  the  right  or  left 
as  soon  as  it  enters  the  domicile  before  it  can  find  a  passage  to 
the  upper  gallery.  By  the  continual  pressure  of  the  moles  upon 
the  walls  of  the  passages  and  roof  of  the  central  chamber,  they 
become  quite  smooth,  hard,  and  pohshed,  so  that  the  earth  will 
not  fall  in,  even  after  the  severest  storm. 

The  use  of  so  complicated  a  series  of  cells  and  passages  is 
extremely  doubtful,  and  our  total  ignorance  of  the  subject  affords 
another  reason  why  the  habits  of  this  wonderful  animal  should 
be  better  studied. 

.  About  the  middle  of  June  the  moles  begin  to  fall  in  love,  and 
are  as  furious  in  their  attachments  as  in  all  other  phases  of 
their  nature.  At  that  time  two  male  moles  cannot  meet  without 
mutual  jealousy,  and  they  straightway  begin  to  fight,  scratcliing, 
tearing,  and  biting  with  such  insane  fury  that  they  seem  uncon- 


THE   MOLE.  209 

scious  of  anything  except  the  heat  of  battle.  Indeed  the  whole 
life  of  the  mole  is  one  of  fury,  and  he  eats  like  a  starvini:^ 
tiger,  tearing  and  rending  his  prey  with  claws  and  teeth,  and 
crunching  audibly  the  body  of  the  worm  between  the  sharp 
points.  Magnify  the  mole  to  the  size  of  the  lion  and  you  will 
have  a  beast  more  terrible  than  the  world  has  yet  seen. 
Though  nearly  blind,  and  therefore  incapable  of  following  its 
prey  by  sight,  it  would  be  active  beyond  conception,  springing 
this  way  and  that  way  as  it  goes  along,  leaping  with  lightness 
and  quickness  upon  any  animal  which  it  meets,  rending  it  in 
pieces  in  a  moment,  thrusting  its  blood-thirsty  snout  into  the 
body  of  its  victim,  eating  the  still  warm  and  bleeding  flesh,  and 
instantly  searching  for  fresh  prey.  Such  a  creature  would, 
without  the  least  hesitation,  devour  a  serpent  twenty  feet  in 
length,  and  so  terrible  would  be  its  voracity  that  it  would  eat 
twenty  or  thirty  of  such  snakes  in  a  day  as  easily  as  it  devours 
the  same  number  of  worms.  With  one  grasp  of  its  teeth  and 
one  stroke  of  its  claws,  it  could  tear  an  ox  asunder;  and  if  it 
should  happen  to  enter  a  fold  of  sheep  or  enclosure  of  cattle, 
it  would  kill  them  all  for  the  mere  lust  of  slaughter.  Let,  then, 
two  of  such  animals  meet  in  combat,  and  how  terrific  would  be 
the  battle !  Fear  is  a  feeling  of  which  the  mole  seems  to  be 
utterly  unconscious,  and,  when  fighting  with  one  of  its  own 
species,  he  gives  his  whole  energies  to  the  destruction  of  his 
opponent  without  seeming  to  heed  the  injuries  inflicted  upon 
himself.  From  the  foregoing  sketch  the  reader  will  be  able  to 
estimate  the  extraordinary  energies  of  this  animal,  as  well  as 
the  wonderful  instincts  with  which  it  is  endowed. 

The  fur  of  the  mole  is  noted  for  its  clean,  velvety  aspect;  and 
that  an  animal  should  be  able  to  pass  unsoiled  through  earth  of 
all  textures  is  a  really  remarkable  phenomenon.  It  is  partly  to 
be  explained  by  the  character  of  the  hair,  and  partly  by  that  of 
the  skin.  The  hair  of  the  mole  is  peculiar  on  account  of  its 
want  of  ''  set."  The  tops  of  the  hairs  do  not  point  in  any  par- 
ticular direction,  but  may  be  pressed  equally  forward  or  back- 
ward or  to  either  side.  The  microscope  reveals  the  cause  of 
this  peculiarity.  The  hair  is  extremely  fine  at  its  exit  from  the 
skin,  and  gradually  increases  in  thickness  until  it  reaches  its 
full  width  when  it  again  diminishes.  This  alternation  occurs 
several  times  in  each  hair,  and  gives  the  peculiar  velvet-like 
texture  with  which  we  are  all  so  familiar.  There  is  scarcely 
any  coloring  matter  in  the  slender  portion  of  the  hair, 
ajiS   the    beautiful   changeable    coppery   hues    of  the  fur  is 


2IO  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

owing  to  this  structure.  Another  reason  for  the  cleanliness 
of  the  fur  is  the  strong,  though  membranous  muscle  be- 
neath the  skin.  While  the  mole  is  engaged  in  traveUing,  par- 
ticularly in  loose  earth,  the  soil  for  a  time  clings  to  the  fur; 
but  at  tolerably  regular  intervals  the  creature  gives  the  skin  a 
sharp  and  powerful  shake,  which  throws  off  at  once  the  whole 
of  the  mould  that  has  collected  upon  the  fur.  Some  amount  of 
dust  still  remains,  for,  however  clean  the  fur  of  a  mole  may 
seem  to  be,  if  the  creature  be  placed  for  an  hour  in  water,  a 
considerable  quantity  of  earth  will  be  dissolved  away  and  fall 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  improvement  in  the  fur  after 
being  well  washed  with  soft  tepid  water  and  soap,  is  almost 
incredible.  Many  persons  have  been  struck  with  such  admira- 
tion for  the  fur  of  the  mole,  that  they  have  been  desirous  of 
having  a  number  of  the  skins  collected  and  made  into  a  waist- 
coat. This  certainly  can  be  done,  but  the  garment  thus  made 
is  so  very  hot  that  it  can  only  be  worn  in  winter.  Such  gar- 
ments are  very  expensive,  and  owing  to  the  tender  quality  of 
the  skin,  possess  but  little  lasting  powers.  There  is  also  a 
wonderfully  strong  smell  about  the  mole  ;  so  strong,  indeed, 
that  dogs  will  sometimes  point  at  moles  instead  of  game,  to  the 
great  disgust  of  their  masters.  This  odor  adheres  obstinately 
to  the  skin,  and  even  in  furs  which  have  been  dried  for  more 
than  ten  years,  this  peculiar  savor  has  been  noticed. 

We  have  given  much  space  to  the  mole,  not  particularly  on 
account  of  its  particular  usefulness  to  the  trapper,  but  because 
of  its  many  claims  to  our  notice.  If  the  creature  were  a  rare 
and  costly  inhabitant  of  some  distant  land,  how  deep  would  be 
the  interest  which  it  would  incite.  But  because  it  is  a  creature 
of  our  country,  and  to  be  found  in  every  field,  there  are  but  few 
who  care  to  examine  a  creature  so  common,  or  who  experience 
any  feelings  save  those  of  disgust  when  they  see  a  mole  making 
its  way  over  the  ground  in  search  of  a  soft  spot  in  which  to 
burrow. 

In  many  localities  this  interesting  animal  exists  in  such  num- 
bers as  to  become  a  positive  nuisance,  and  the  invention  of  a 
trap  which  would  effectually  curtail  their  depredations  has  been 
a  problem   to  many  a  vexed  and  puzzled  farmer. 

Mole  traps  of  various  kinds  have  found  their  way  into  our 
agricultural  papers,  but  none  has  proved  more  effectual  than 
the  one  v/e  describe  on  page  119.  An  arrangement  of  the 
figure  four  ^^-x^;^  107,  is  also  sometimes  employed  with  good 
success.     In  this  case  the  bait  stick  crosses  the  upright  stick 


SQUIRRELS.  211 

close  to  the  ground,  and  rests  over  the  burrow  of  the  mole,  the 
earth  being  previously  pressed  down  to  the  surrounding  level. 
The  stone  should  be  narrow  and  very  heavy,  and  of  course  no 
bait  is  required. 

The  pieces  should  be  set  carefully,  and  so  adjusted  that  the 
lifting  of  the  soil  beneath  the  stick  as  the  mole  forces  its  way 
through  the  compressed  earth  will  dislodge  the  bait  stick  and 
let  down  the  stone  with  its  crushing  weight. 

Another  method  consists  in  embedding  a  deep  flower  pot  in 
one  of  the  main  tunnels  of  the  animal,  and  carefully  replacing 
the  soil  above.  The  mole  in  traversing  his  burrow  thus  falls 
into  the  pit  and  is  effectually  captured.  This  i§  a  very  inge- 
nious mode  of  taking  the  animal,  and  rewarded  its  inventor 
with  seven  moles  on  the  first  night  of  trial. 

There  are  a  number  of  other  devices  said  to  w^ork  excellently, 
but  the  above  we  believe  to  be  the  most  effectual  of  all. 

There  are  several  sjDccies  of  American  moles,  the  star-nosed 
variety  being  familiar  to  most  of  us.  The  most  common  moles 
are  the  shrew  moles,  with  pointed  noses.  The  silver  mole  is  a 
large  species,  of  a  changeable  silvery  color,  found  on  the 
Western  prairies.  The  Oregon  mole  is  nearly  black,  with  pur- 
plish or  brownish  reflections. 

The  most  beautiful  of  all  the  moles  is  found  at  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  It  is  of  about  the  size  of  the  ordinary  American 
species,  and  its  soft  fur  glistens  with  brilliant  green  and  golden 
reflections.  The  fur  of  this  species  is  probably  the  most  won- 
derful and  beautiful  in  the  whole  animal  kingdom. 

SQUIRRELS. 

There  are  many  species  of  squirrels  found  in  the  United 
States,  but  their  fur  is  of  little  value,  and  of  trifling  importance 
in  the  fur  trade  ;  the  squirrel  fur  of  our  markets  being  that  of 
a  small  grey  European  variety.  Squirrels,  as  a  class,  possess 
much  the  same  peculiarities  and  habits.  Their  claws  are  par- 
ticularly adapted  for  life  among  the  trees ;  their  tails  are  long 
and  bushy,  covering  over  the  backs  of  the  animals  when  in  a 
sitting  posture.  They  are  all  lithe  and  quick  of  movement, 
and  their  senses  of  sight  and  hearing  are  especially  keen.  They 
are  constantly  on  the  alert,  and  are  full  of  artifice  when  pur- 
sued. Their  food  consists  chiefly  of  nuts,  fruits,  and  grain,  but 
when  pushed  by  hunger,  there  is  no  telling  what  they  will  not 
eat.     They  generally  provide  for  the  winter  months  by  laying 


U2 


HOW   TO    TRAP. 


up  a  store  of  the  foregoing  provisions,  either  in  holes  in  trees 
or  interstices  in  the  bark,  or  in  cavities  under  ground.  The 
shag-bark  hickory  offers  an  especial  inducement  to  these  prov- 
ident creatures  in  the  numerous  crevices  and  cracks  through- 
out the  bark.  It  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to  find  whole  hand- 
fuls  of  nuts  carefully  packed  away  in  one  of  these  cracks,  an  1 


a  sharp  stroke  with  an  ax  in  the  trunk  of  one  of  these  trees 
will  often  dislodge  numbers  of  the  nuts.  The  writer  has  many 
a  time  gone  "nutting  "  in  this  way  in  the  middle  of  winter  with 
good  success.  The  nests  of  squirrels  are  generally  built  in 
trees,  either  in  a  crotch  between  the  branches  or  in  some  de- 
serted woodpecker's  hole.  Some  species  live  in  burrows  in 
the  ground,  and  those  individuals  who  are  lucky  enough  to 
be  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  barn  often  make  their  abode 
therein,  taking  their  regular  three  meals  a  day  from  the  gran- 
ary. In  many  localities  these  animals  thus  become  a  perfect 
pest  to  the  farmers,  and  their  destruction  becomes  a  matter  of 
urgent  necessity. 

Squirrels,  although  resembling  cacli  other  much  as  regards 


SQUIRRELS.  213 

their  general  habits,  differ  considerably  in  the  size  and  color  oi 
the  different  species. 

The  principal  varieties  found  on  our  continent  are  : — 

The  large  grey  squirrel,  which  is  common  in  the  Eastern  and 
Middle  States,  and  which  is  about  two  feet  in  length,  including 
the  tail.  The  common  red  squirrel,  or  chicaree,  smaller  than 
the  foregoing,  and  found  more  or  less  all  through  the  United 
rstates.  The  black  squirrel,  which  is  about  the  size  of  the  grey, 
•■nd  found  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  the  United  States,  near 
tlie  great  lakes.  In  the  Southern  States  there  is  a  variety 
known  as  the  fox  squirrel,  about  the  size  of  the  red  squirrel, 
and  quite  variable  in  color.  The  Middle  States  furnishes  a 
species  called  the  cat  squirrel,  rather  smaller  than  the  preced- 
ing. Its  tail  is  very  broad,  and  its  color  varies  from  very  light 
to  very  dark  grey. 

The  ground  squirrel,  or  chipmuck,  with  its  prettily  striped 
sides,  is  common  to  most  of  our  readers,  its  general  color  being 
red  and  the  stripes  being  black  and  white. 

Another  burrowing  species,  known  as  the  Oregon  or  downy 
squirrel,  is  found  in  the  Territory  from  which  it  takes  its  name, 
and  also  northward  in  British  America.  In  size  it  resembles  the 
chipmuck,  and  its  color  is  light  red  above,  pure  white  beneath, 
and  silver  grey  at  the  sides. 

The  beautiful  silky  variety,  known  as  the  flying  squirrel,  with 
its  grey  chinchilla-like  fur  and  loose  skin,  is  found  throughout 
the  United  States  east  of  the  Mississippi. 

Louisiana  and  Texas  furnish  the  golden-bellied  squirrel, 
which  is  about  twenty  inches  in  length,  with  tail  golden  yellow 
beneath,  and  golden  grey  above.  The  sooty  squirrel  is  also 
found  in  this  locality,  being  about  the  same  size  as  the  last 
mentioned,  and  black  above  and  brownish  red  beneath. 

There  are  other  varieties  in  California  known  as  the  woolly, 
soft-haired,  and  weasel  squirrels ;  and  in  the  Western  States 
we  find  the  large  red-tailed  squirrels,  which  are  about  the  size 
of  the  large  grey  variety  of  the  Eastern  and  Middle  States. 

Squirrels,  as  a  tribe,  are  much  sought  for  as  pets,  and  most  of 
the  species  are  easily  tamed. 

Box  traps  of  various  kinds  are  used  in  taking  them  alive. 
The  varieties  on  pages  103, 106 and  1 10  are  especially  adapted  for 
this  purpose,  and  should  be  set  either  in  the  trees  or  on  the 
ground,  and  baited  with  an  apple,  a  portion  of  an  ear  of  corn, 
or  of  whatever  the  animal  is  particularly  fond. 

When  the  animals  exist  in  such  numbers  as  to  become  a  de- 

15 


214  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

structive  nuisance  to  the  farm,  the  small-sized  steel  trap,  No.  o, 
arranged  with  bait  hung  above  it,  will  work  to  good  advantage. 
Twitch-ups  are  also  successful,  and  we  might  also  recommend 
the  traps  on  pages  107,  116  and  128  as  worthy  of  trial  when  the 
animal  is  not  desired  to  be  captured  alive. 

Squirrels  may  be  skinned  either  by  ripping  up  the  belly,  or 
in  a  whole  j^iece,  as  described  in  regard  to  the  fox. 

We  pause  before  going  further  into  the  mysteries  of  trapping 
in  connection  with  the  animals  which  we  are  about  to  consider, 
as  they  are  generally  exempt  from  the  wiles  of  the  trapper's  art, 
coming  more  properly  in  the  field  of  the  hunter  or  sports- 
man. The  idea  of  trapping  a  deer,  for  instance,  seems  barba- 
rous indeed ;  but  are  not  all  the  ways  of  deceiving  and  killing 
these  splendid  animals  equally  so  ?  Are  not  the  various  strate- 
gies and  cunning  devices  of  thesportsman,  by  which  these  noble 
creatures  are  decoyed  and  murdered,  equally  open  to  the  same 
objection  ?  As  far  as  barbarity  goes,  there  is  to  us  but  little 
choice  between  the  two  methods ;  and,  generally  speaking,  we 
decry  them  both,  and  most  especially  do  not  wish  to  be  under- 
stood as  encouraging  the  trapping  of  these  animals,  except 
where  all  other  means  have  failed,  and  in  cases  where  their  cap- 
ture becomes  in  a  measure  a  matter  of  necessity.  This  is  often 
the  case  in  the  experience  of  professional  trappers.  The  life 
of  the  trapper  during  the  trapping  season  is  spent  almost  en- 
tirely in  the  wilderness,  often  many  miles  from  any  human 
habitation  ;  and  at  times  he  is  solely  dependent  upon  his  gun  or 
trap  for  his  necessary  food. 

Sometimes  in  a  dry  season,  when  the  leaves  and  twigs 
crackle  under  foot,  the  rifle  is  as  good  as  useless,  for  it  becomes 
impossible  to  approach  a  deer  within  shooting  range.  And 
there  are  other  times  when  ammunition  is  exhausted,  and  the 
trapper  is  thus  forced  to  rely  only  on  his  traps  for  his  supply  of 
food.  In  such  circumstances,  the  necessities  of  the  trapper 
are  paramount,  and  the  trapping  of  deer,  in  such  straits,  as  the 
most  desirable  food  is  rather  to  be  recommended  than  con- 
demned. The  same  remarks  also  in  a  measure  apply  to  the 
moose  and  prong-horn  antelope,  as  well  as  to  several  other  ani- 
mals hereinafter  mentioned,  as  they  are  generally  considered 
more  in  the  light  of  the  hunter's  than  the  trapper's  game. 


THE  DEER.  215 

THE  DEER. 

There  are  upwards  of  eight  varieties  of  this  animal  which 
inhabit  North  America.  The  common  red  or  Virginian  deer 
is  found  throughout  the  United  States.  The  stag  or  Wapiti 
deer  is  now  chiefly  confined  to  the  country  west  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  northward  to  British  America.  The  moose  we  shall 
speak  of  hereafter.  The  Rocky  Mountain  mule  deer,  and  the 
long-tailed  deer  of  the  same  locality,  are  two  more  species,  and 
there  are  also  the  black-tailed  deer  and  the  reindeer,  the  latter 
of  which  is  a  native  of  British  America.  The  scope  of  our 
volume  will  not  of  course  admit  of  detailed  directions  for 
trapping  each  variety,  but,  as  the  habits  of  all  the  species  are 
in  a  measure  similar,  our  remarks  will  apply  to  them  in  general, 
and  particularly  to  the  red  or  Virginian  deer,  which  is  the  most 
important  to  American  trappers. 

The  trap  for  taking  deer  should  be  large,  strong,  and  covered 
with  spikes.  The  Newhouse  (No.  4)  is  particularly  adapted, 
and  is  especially  arranged  for  this  purpose. 

When  the  path  of  the  deer  is  discovered  on  the  border  of  a 
stream  or  lake,  the  trap  should  be  set  beneath  the  surface  of 
the  water,  near  the  tracks  of  the  animal,  and  covered  by  a  hand- 
ful of  dried  grass  thrown  upon  it.  When  thus  set,  it  may  either 
be  left  to  run  its  chances,  or  success,  further  insured  by  the  fol- 
lowing precaution:  In  winter  the  principal  food  of  the  deer 
consists  of  the  twigs,  buds,  and  bark  of  various  forest  trees,  and 
particularly  those  of  the  basswood  and  maple.  In  the  season 
when  the  traps  are  set  as  above  described,  a  most  tempting 
bait  is  furnished  by  a  large  branch  of  either  of  those  trees, 
freshly  cut,  and  laid  near  the  trap.  The  deer  in  feeding  are 
thus  almost  sure  to  be  captured.  There  are  certain  glands 
which  are  located  on  the  inner  side  of  tlie  hind  legs  of  the  deer, 
and  which  emit  a  very  strong  and  peculiar  odor.  The  scent 
of  these  glands  seems  to  attract  the  animal,  and  for  this  reason 
are  cut  out  and  used  by  trappers  as  a  scent-bait.  In  the  case 
already  described,  it  is  'well  to  rub  the  glands  on  the  twigs  of 
the  trees,  thus  serving  as  an  additional  attraction  to  the  bait. 
There  is  still  another  method  of  trapping  deer,  which  is  com- 
monly employed  in  the  winter  time.  The  trap  is  sunk  in  the 
snow  at  the  foot  of  a  tree,  and  the  bait,  consisting  of  an  ear  of 
corn  or  a  few  beards  of  other  grain,  is  fastened  to  the  tree, 
above  the  trap,  three  or  more  feet  from  the  ground.  The  ani- 
mal, in  reaching  for  the  bait,  places  its  foot  in  the  trap  and  is 
secured. 


2l6  HOW   TO    TRAP. 

When  first  caught,  the  deer  becomes  very  wild  and  violent; 
so  much  so  that  if  the  trap  \vere  chained  or  retarded  by  a  heavy 
clog,  the  chain,  or  even  the  trap  itself,  would  most  likely  be 
broken.  The  weight  of  a  trap  of  this  size  is  generally  a  suffi- 
cient impediment,  no  clog,  or  at  best  a  very  light  one,  being  re- 
quired. The  first  frantic  plunge  being  over,  the  entrapped 
creature  immediately  yields  and  lies  down  upon  the  ground,  and 
is  always  to  be  found  within  a  few  rods  of  where  the  trap  was 
first  sprung  upon  him.  During  the  winter  the  traps  may  also 
be  set  in  the  snow,  using  the  same  bait  already  described.  It 
is  a  common  method  to  fell  a  small  tree  for  the  purpose,  setting 
the  traps  beneath  the  snow,  around  the  top  branches.  The 
deer,  in  browsing  in  the  tender  twigs  or  buds,  are  almost  cer- 
tain to  be  captured.  Dead-falls  of  different  kinds  are  some- 
times used  in  trapping  the  deer,  with  good  success  ;  using  the 
scent  bait  already  described,  together  with  the  other  bait.  The 
food  of  the  deer  during  the  summer  consists  of  nuts,  fruits, 
acorns,  grass,  berries,  and  water  plants,  and  when  in  conve- 
nient neighborhood  of  cultivated  lands,  they  do  not  hesitate  to 
make  a  meal  from  the  farmer's  turnips,  cabbages,  and  grain. 

As  we  have  said,  the  winter  food  consists  chiefly  of  the  twigs 
of  trees.  When  the  snow  is  deep  the  deer  form  what  are  called 
"yards,"  about  such  trees  as  they  particularly  select  for  their 
browsing.  These  yards  are  made  simply  by  tramping  down 
the  snow,  and  large  numbers  of  the  deer  are  often  thus  found 
together.  As  the  supply  of  food  is  consumed,  the  yard  is  en- 
larged, so  as  to  enclose  other  trees  for  browsing,  and  where 
deep  snows  abound  throughout  the  winter,  these  enclosures 
often  become  quite  extensive  in  area.  Panthers,  wolves,  and 
wolverines  take  especial  advantage  of  these,  and  easily  secure 
their  victims.  By  wolves  especially  entire  herds  of  deer  are 
thus  destroyed,  and  whole  yards  depopulated  in  a  single  night. 
Panthers  secrete  themselves  in  the  trees  above  the  boughs 
overhanging  the  "yards,''  and,  with  stealthy  movements,  ap- 
proach and  pounce  upon  their  unsuspecting  prey.  The  blood- 
thirsty wolverine  secretes  himself  in  the  nooks  and  by-ways  to 
spring  upon  its  tawny  victim  unawares.  These,  together 
with  man,  form  the  principal  foes  of  the  deer,  and  we  can  truth- 
fully assert  that  the  hunter  is  much  more  its  enemy  than  the 
trapper. 

As  we  do  not  wish  to  encourage  the  wanton  trapping  of  this 
noble  creature,  it  would  perhaps  be  well  for  us  to  devote  also  a 
few  words  in  dcscribinc:  the  various  modes  of  huntino:  the  ani- 


THE   DEER.  217 

mal,  adopted  by  the  "professional  sportsmen"  throu2:hout  the 
land.  The  most  common  method  is  that  called  "  still  huntino^," 
most  generally  pursued  in  winter.  The  hunter  is  shod  with 
deer-skin  or  other  soft  sandals,  and  starts  out  with  his  rifle  and 
ammunition.  Finding  the  fresh  track  of  the  deer,  he  cautiously 
and  noiselessly  follows  up  the  trail,  keeping  a  sharp  lookout 
ahead.  A  practised  deer-hunter  becomes  very  skillful  and 
accurate,  and  the  animal  is  nearly  always  tracked  to  discovery, 
when  he  is  shot.  The  deer's  sense  of  smell  is  extremely  acute, 
and,  when  in  shooting  range,  it  is  very  necessary  to  approach 
them  in  the  face  of  the  wind,  the  direction  of  which  may  be 
easily  determined  by  holding  the  finger  in  the  mouth  for  a  mo- 
ment, afterward  pointing  it  upward  toward  the  sky.  The  cool 
side  of  the  finger  will  indicate  the  direction  from  which  the 
wind  blows,  and  toward  that  direction  the  deer  should  always 
be  approached,  or  as  far  toward  that  direction  as  possible.  It 
will  sometimes  happen  that  the  hunter  will  surprise  the  buck, 
doe,  and  fawn  together.  In  order  to  secure  the  three,  shoot  the 
doe  first.  The  buck  and  fawn  will  remain  near  the  spot.  The 
buck  should  next  be  shot,  and  then  the  fawn,  the  charge  being 
aimed  at  the  breast.  Never  approach  a  wounded  deer  without 
reloading  the  gun,  as  he  is  often  more  frightened  than  hurt,  and 
is  likely  to  start  and  run  away,  unless  prevented  by  anothei 
shot.  During  the  snow  season,  deer  are  always  watchful  of 
their  back  track.  They  are  generally  at  rest  during  the  day, 
starting  out  late  in  the  afternoon  on  their  usual  ramblings, 
which  they  continue  through  the  night.  During  the  dark  hours 
they  love  to  resort  to  the  water  side  in  quest  of  aquatic  plants, 
and  are  here  often  taken  by  hunters,  many  of  which  consider 
"night  hunting  "  the  favorite  and  most  exciting  sport.  It  is 
pursued  in  the  following  manner:  The  hunter  requires  a  boat 
or  canoe,  page  261,  a  good  rifle,  and  a  lamp.  The  lamp,  with 
a  screen  or  reflector  behind  it,  is  placed  at  the  bow  of  the  boat. 
One  hunter  takes  the  oar,  and,  with  noiseless  paddle,  propels 
or  sculls  the  boat  from  the  stern.  The  armed  hunter  crouches 
behind  the  light,  with  the  muzzle  of  his  rifle  projecting  beyond 
the  screen  sufficiently  to  easily  show  the  forward  sight  on  the 
tip  of  the  barrel.  A  dark  lantern  is  sometimes  used  as  a  light. 
The  eyes  of  the  deer  shine  very  perceptibly  at  night,  and  his 
prev:cnce  on  the  banks  is  thus  easily  detected.  If  he  is  noise- 
lessly approached,  he  will  remain  transfixed  by  the  effect  of 
the  light  from  the  boat,  and  he  may  be  neared  even  to  a  very 
close  range,  when  he  is  easily  despatched.     Hundreds  of  deer 


2l8  HOW   TO   TRAP. 

are  thus  taken  during  the  summer  and  autumn.  Deer  are  also 
chased  by  dogs  until  they  are  forced  to  take  refuge  in  the  near- 
est rivers  or  lakes,  when  the  hunter  in  his  canoe  overtakes  and 
shoots  them.  Another  method  is  frequently  employed  in  the 
hunting  of  the  deer.  These  animals  are  very  fond  of  salt,  and 
with  it  they  are  often  decoyed  to  a  spot  where  the  hunter  lies 
in  wait  tor  them.  These  places  are  called  ^'  deer  licks,"  or 
salting  places,  and  can  be  made  as  follows  :  Select  a  locality 
where  deer  are  known  to  frequent,  and  place  a  handful  of  salt 
either  on  a  smooth  spot  of  ground  or  in  the  hollow  of  a  log.  A 
section  of  a  log  is  sometimes  slightly  dug  out  at  one  end  and 
the  other  inserted  in  the  earth,  the  salt  being  placed  in  the  hol- 
low. The  hunter  secretes  himself  in  a  neighboring  tree,  some- 
times erecting  a  bench  or  scaffolding  for  comfort,  and,  provided 
with  gun  and  ammunition,  he  awaits  the  coming  of  the  deer. 
Hunters  say  that  a  deer  seldom  looks  higher  than  his  head,  and 
that  a  sportsman  on  one  of  these  scaffoldings,  even  though  he 
is  clumsy  in  his  movements,  is  seldom  noticed  by  the  animal. 

The  salt  lick  is  also  utilized  for  night  hunting.  A  head- 
lantern  is  generally  required.  This  can  be  made  in  the  follow- 
ing manner :  Construct  a  cylinder  of  birch  bark  or  paste-board 
or  any  like  substance,  ten  inches  in  height,  and  of  sufficient 
size  to  fit  closely  on  the  head.  A  circular  partition  should  next 
be  firmly  inserted  at  about  the  middle  of  the  cylinder,  and  the 
centre  of  the  partition  should  be  provided  with  a  socket  for  the  re- 
ception of  a  candle.  On  this  end  of  the  cylinder  a  piece  should 
now  be  cut  to  admit  of  the  passage  of  light  from  the  candle  on 
that  side.  Having  this  fire-hat  at  hand  wait  patiently  for  the  game. 
When  a  significant  noise  is  heard  light  the  candle  and  place  the 
cylinder  on  the  head,  with  the  open  cut  in  front,  thus  directing 
the  light  toward  the  ground.  As  the  deer  approaches,  his  fiery 
eyes  will  easily  be  seen,  and  the  light  from  the  candle  will  shine 
sufficiently  on  the  rifle  to  cleady  reveal  the  sights  and  admit 
of  a  sure  aim.  There  is  still  another  method  of  night  hunting 
by  the  salt  lick.  The  rifle  is  aimed  directly  at  the  salted  spot, 
and  thus  firmly  fixed — this  preparation  being  made  in  the  day- 
time. When  night  approaches,  the  hunter  finds  a  piece  of 
phosphorescent  wood  or  "  fox  fire,"  and  places  it  on  the  ground, 
at  a  point  which  he  has  previously  determined  to  be  on  a  direct 
line  of  the  aim  of  his  gun.  The  "fox  fire  "  is  plainly  seen  from 
the  tree,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  darkened  he  knows  that  it  is  ob- 
scured by  the  deer,  and  he  pulls  the  trigger  and  kills  his  game. 

Deer  are  hunted  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  but  ought  not  to 


THE   MOOSE. 


219 


be  hunted  during  the  summer.  The  sport  legitimate  y  begins 
in  September,  when  the  buck  begins  to  harden  his  horns,  and 
when  his  flesh  is  in  its  best  condition  for  food.  In  October  the 
deer  is  more  shy,  and  during  this  month  and  after,  the  sport  is 
at  its  height.  The  deer  should  be  skinned  from  an  incision 
down  the  belly,  and  the  hide  spread  on  a  hoop  stretcher,  paga 
275- 

THE   MOOSE. 

We  have  already  given  so  much  space  to  the  hunting  of  the 
deer  that  we  shall  be  obliged  to  cut  short  our  remarks  on  the 
Moose,  particularly  as  it  is  a  representative  of  the  same  family. 


This  animal  is  the  largest  of  the  Deer  tribe,  being  seven  or  eight 
feet  in  height  and  often  weighing  over  fifteen  hundred  pounds. 
It  is  supplied  with  immense  flat  spreading  horns,  sometimes  ex- 
panding to  the  distance  of  six  feet  between  the  tips.  It  is  found 
in  Maine,  Oregon  and  Washington  Territories,  and  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  great  lakes,   and  inhal:)its  the  regions  as   far 


220  HOW   TO    TRAP. 

north  as  the  Arctic  Sea.  Its  color  is  yellowish  brown.  The 
fur  is  thicker  in  winter  than  summer,  and  on  the  neck  of  the 
animal  the  hair  is  very  coarse  and  hangs  in  an  immense  tuft  of 
over  a  foot  in  length.  The  flesh  is  most  excellent  food  and  is 
much  esteemed  by  trappers.  The  habits  of  the  moose  are  in 
most  respects  identical  with  the  deer,  already  described,  and  like 
them  they  form  '^  yards  "  during  the  winter  season. 

In  the  North  the  moose  is  hunted  on  snow-shoes  by  the 
natives,  and  in  summer  they  are  shot  like  the  deer.  They  are 
often  very  dangerous  and  terrible  creatures  to  hunt,  and  the 
utmost  care  and  skill,  as  described  in  regard  to  the  deer,  is  re- 
quired on  the  part  of  the  hunter  in  order  to  avoid  detection 
through  the  exquisite  sense  of  smell  which  the  animal  pos- 
sesses. The  moose  is  easily  trapped.  The  Newhouse,  No. 
6,  is  especially  adapted  for  the  purpose,  and  it  should  be  chained 
to  a  clog  of  stone  or  wood  of  over  fifty  pounds  in  weight.  Set 
the  trap  in  the  '*  yard,"  or  beneath  the  snow  where  the  moose 
frequents,  or  in  the  summer,  or  fall  seasons,  as  described  for  the 
deer,  using  the  same  methods  in  regard  to  baiting,  etc. 

Skin  after  the  manner  of  cattle,  and  stretch  the  hide  on  a 
hoop-spreader.      Page  275. 

ROCKY    MOUNTAIN    SHEEP. 

These  creatures  are  natives  of  the  entire  range  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  are  especially  prized  on  account  of  the  superior 
quality  of  their  flesh  as  food.  They  are  much  larger  and  more 
powerful  than  the  domestic  sheep,  and  the  ram  is  provided  with 
enormous  curved  horns.  The  wool  of  the  animal  is  intermixed 
with  coarse  grey  hairs,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  fur  is 
russet  grey,  with  the  exception  of  the  rump  and  under  parts, 
which  are  of  a  dirty  white  color.  The  animal  is  generally  very 
wary  and  retiring,  and  inhabits  the  most  secluded  and  inaccess- 
ible mountain  regions  and  rocky  cliffs. 

They  are  easily  captured  by  the  steel  trap  (No.  5)  set  in  their 
haunts.  The  dead-fall  is  also  used  in  some  instances.  Re- 
move thxi  skin  as  described  for  the  deer. 

THE   BUFFALO. 

The  Buffaloes  or  Bison  of  the  Western  plains  is  too  well  known 
to  need  description.  They  travel  in  migrating  herds  of  thou- 
sands, and  are  found  from  Texas  to  British  America.    Their  food 


THE    PRONG    HORN   ANTELOPE.  221 

consists  chiefly  of  grass,  of  which  the  "  Buffalo  grass  ''  is  their 
great  delight.  They  graze  and  travel  through  the  day  and 
rest  by  night.  They  are  more  the  game  of  the  hunter  than  the 
trapper,  although  the  largest  side  Newhouse  would  effectually 
secure  one  of  the  animals.  The  Buffalo  is  generally  hunted  on 
horseback,  the  usual  method  being  that  of  stealing  into  the 
drove  while  grazing,  always  moving  against  the  wind  in  order 
to  avoid  being  scented.  The  flesh  is  palatable  and  by  many 
much  relished.  The  Buffalo  skins  of  commerce  are  furnished 
by  the  cows.  The  bull  skins  are  almost  devoid  of  fur  on  the 
hinder  parts,  the  hair  being  confined  to  the  huge  heavy  mass  on 
the  hump  and  mane.  Skin  the  animal  as  described  for  the 
Moose. 

THE  PRONG  HORN   ANTELOPE. 

This  sole  American  representative  of  the  Antelope  tribe  we 
believe  is  seldom  trapped  ;  but  as  it  is  a  well-known  animal  on 
the  Western  plains,  a  short  mention  of  it  is  required  here.  In 
general  shape  this  creature  bears  considerable  resemblance  to 
the  deer,  the  form  of  the  horn  being  its  chief  jDeculiarity,  each 
one  of  v/hich  is  provided  with  a  single  prong,  from  which  the 
animal  takes  its  name,  of  Prong  Horn.  The  color  of  the  body  is 
brownish-yellow,  with  the  exception  of  the  rump  and  belly  which 
are  almost  white.  The  Antelopes  generally  travel  in  herds,  and 
are  much  hunted  by  the  Indians  who  surround  them  and  destroy 
them  with  heavy  clubs.  Like  the  deer,  their  sense  of  smell  is 
especially  keen  and  the  same  caution  is  required  in  hunting 
them.  In  size  they  are  about  the  same  as  the  Virginian  Deer. 
They  are  wonderfully  graceful  in  all  their  movements,  and  are 
even  more  fleet  of  foot  than  the  deer.  These  Antelopes  inhabit 
the  Western  Prairies  and  wooded  borders  from  New  Mexico 
northward,  and  their  flesh  is  much  esteemed  as  an  article  of  diet. 
They  may  be  caught  in  their  feeding  places,  as  recommended 
for  the  deer,  using  the  same  sized  trap. 

The  dead  fall  is  also  efficacious  in  their  capture,  and  they  are 
also  sometimes  taken  in  kirge  pit-falls  covered  over  with  light 
sticks  and  leaA^es,  to  resemble  the  natural  surroundings.  On  this 
false  covering,  the  bait,  consisting  of  green  corn  or  other  veget- 
ables, is  strewn  and  a  high  wall  of  logs  or  stones  is  erected 
around  it,  in  order  that  the  animal  will  be  obliged  to y/^//^/  slight- 
ly in  order  to  reach  the  bait. 

Remove  the  hide  as  recommended  for  the  deer. 


222  HOW   TO    TRAP. 

SHOOTING  AND   POISONING. 

Until  the  introduction  of  the  steel-trap,  shooting  was  a  common 
method  of  taking  fur  bearing  animals,  and  even  to  the  present 
day  it  is  quite  prevalent  in  some  localities.  Any  one  who  has 
had  any  experience  with  the  fur  trade  must  have  learned  that 
furs  which  are  *'  shot,"  are  much  affected  in  value .  Some 
furriers  will  not  purchase  such  skins  at  any  price  ;  and  they 
never  meet  with  any  but  a  very  low  offer.  ^-Trapped  furs" 
and  ''  shot  furs  "  are  terms  of  considerable  significance  in  the 
fur  trade,  and  any  one  who  wishes  to  realize  from  a  profitable 
sale  of  his  furs,  should  use  his  gun  as  little  as  possible.  A 
shot  grazing  through  the  fur  of  an  animal  cuts  the  hairs  as  if 
with  a  knife,  and  a  single  such  furrow  is  often  enough  to  spoil 
a  skin.  It  is  these  oblique  grazing  shots  which  particularly 
damage  the  fur,  and  an  animal  killed  with  a  shot  gun  is  seldom 
worth  skinning  for  the  value  of  its  pelt.  If  firearms  are  used, 
the  rifle  is  preferable.  If  the  animal  chances  to  be  hit  broadside 
or  by  a  direct  penetrating  bullet,  the  two  small  holes  thus  made 
may  not  particularly  effect  the  value  of  its  skin,  although  even 
then  the  chances  are  rather  slight. 

Trapped  furs  are  of  the  greatest  value. 

The  use  of  poison  is  objectionable  as  a  means  ot  capture  in 
animals  especially  desired  for  their  fur.  Strychnine  is  the  sub- 
stance generally  employed,  and  unless  its  victim  is  skinned  im- 
7nediately  after  death  the  pelt  becomes  considerably  injured  by 
the  absorption  of  the  poison.  It  has  the  effect  of  loosening  the 
tur  and  the  hair  sheds  easily. 

The  poison  is  principally  used  in  the  capture  of  Wolves  and 
animals  considered  in  the  light  of  vermin.  For  a  wolf  or  fox, 
the  poison  is  mixed  with  lard  or  tallow  and  spread  on  pieces  of 
meat,  or  a  small  amount  of  the  powder  is  inclosed  in  an  incision 
in  the  bait.  The  amount  sufficient  for  a  single  dose  may  be 
easily  held  on  the  point  of  a  knife  blade,  and  death  ensues  in  a 
a  very  few  moments  after  the  bait  is  taken.  For  a  Bear  the 
dose  should  be  a  half  thimbleful,  and  it  should  be  deposited  in 
the  centre  of  a  piece  of  honey  comb,  the  cells  being  emptied  of 
their  honey  for  that  purpose. 

Other  animals  may  be  taken  by  proportionate  quantities  of 
the  poison,  but  for  general  purposes  we  discourage  its  use. 


BOOK   VII. 

CAMPAIGN   LIFE    IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 

T  has  been  the  author's  object  in  the  preparation  of 
this  book  not  simply  to  content  the  reader  with  a  mere 
superficial  knowledge  of  so-called  "Amateur  trap- 
ping," but  to  carry  him  further  into  the  art  profession- 
ally considered,  and  for  this  reason  we  present  in  the 
following  chapter  a  full  catalogue  of  the  trapper's  outfit, 
containing  detailed  descriptions  of  all  the  necessaries 
for  a  most  thorough  campaign,  including  boats  and 
canoes,  log  cabins,  shanties  and  tents,  snow  shoes  and 
camp  furniture  of  all  kinds,  together  with  numerous  and 
valuable  hints  on  trapper's  food. 

PLAN   OF   CAMPAIGN. 

The  first  thing  to  be  considered  in  reference  to  a  campaign  is 
the  selection  of  a  trapping  ground,  and  it  is  always  desirable  to 
choose  a  locality  where  travel  by  water  can  be  resorted  to  as 
much  as  possible.  Otter,  mink,  beaver  and  muskrat  are  among 
the  most  desirable  game  for  the  trapper,  and  as  these  are  all 
amphibious  animals,  a  watered  district  is  therefore  the  best  on 
all  accounts.  Lakes,  ponds,  and  streams,  bordered  by  wild 
woods,  form  the  best  possible  grounds  for  general  trapping,  and 
the  mountain  lakes  of  the  Adirondacks  and  Alleghenies,  and 
all  similar  regions  are  especially  desirable  on  this  account. 
Almost  any  wild  country,  intersected  with  streams,  lakes,  and 
rivers,  is  apt  to  abound  with  game,  and  some  trappers  confine 
their  labors  to  the  borders  of  a  single  lake,  and  adjoining  for- 
est. This  plan  is  especially  to  be  recommended  to  the  ama- 
teur, as  much  of  the  travelling  to  and  fro  can  be  done  by  boat, 


225  THE    CAMPAIGN. 

the  labor  being  thus  much  lightened.  Having  decided  upon  the 
seat  of  operations,  the  young  trappers  should  immediately  set  to 
work  at  building  their  shanties  and  boats.  The  home  shanty  is 
of  the  greatest  importance,  and  should  be  constructed  first. 
Select  some  flat  bit  of  land  near  the  water  and  clear  it  of  brush 
wood,  or  other  rubbish  and  proceed  to  work  as  described  on 
page  242.  A  good  axe  is  the  only  tool  required  by  an  experi- 
enced trapper  in  the  construction  of  such  a  shanty.  Should  the 
trapping  lines  be  very  extensive,  additional  bark  shanties,  page 
245,  will  require  to  be  made  at  intervals  along  the  line,  for  sleep- 
ing stations  and  shelters  in  case  of  storm.  The  professional 
trapper  generally  attends  to  the  building  of  his  shanties  and 
boats  before  the  trapping  season  commences,  and  thus  has 
everything  in  readiness  for  his  campaign.  If  in  a  birch  bark 
country  the  Indian  canoe,  page  260,  is  the  most  desirable 
craft,  on  account  of  its  lightness  and  portability.  The  dug-out, 
or  bateau,  described  on  page  259,  will  also  do  good  service. 

The  trapping  season  begins  in  October,  and  everything 
should  be  in  readiness  at  this  time,  so  that  the  trappers  may 
devote  all  their  time  strictly  to  business. 

The  route  of  the  professional  trapper  often  extends  over  fifty 
miles,  and  the  number  and  weight  of  traps  and  provisions  which 
these  rough-and-ready  individuals  often  carry  as  personal  luggage 
is  most  astounding.  Fifty  or  sixty  pounds  apiece  is  considered 
2c  fair  burden,  and  they  deem  no  one  a  fit  physical  subject  for  a 
campaign  who  cannot  at  least  manage  thirty  pounds  with  com- 
parative ease.  The  number  of  the  trapping  party  generally 
consists  of  from  two  to  four.  A  few  days  prior  to  the  opening 
of  the  trapping  season,  the  party  start  out,  laden  vv^ith  their  bur- 
den of  traps  and  provisions,  and  deposit  them  at  intervals  along 
the  line,  the  provisions  being  mainly  kept  in  the  "  home  shanty." 
Several  trips  may  be  necessary  to  complete  these  preparations, 
unless  the  trapping  ground  is  readily  accessible  by  wagon  or 
boat,  in  which  case  the  transportation  is  much  easier. 

The  'Miome  shanty"  is  generally  built  only  when  the  trap- 
ping grounds  are  far  in  the  wilderness,  miles  away  from  civili- 
zation. If  the  line  extends  from  the  outskirts  of  some  town  or 
village,  such  a  hut  may  be  dispensed  with.  It  is  used  princi- 
pally as  a  storehouse  for  furs,  provisions,  ammunition,  tools,  and 
other  valuables,  and  also  serves  as  a  point  of  rendezvous,  or  a 
home,  for  the  trappers,  one  of  the  number  being  generally  left 
in  charge  to  "keep  shanty"  while  his  companions  are  on  their 
tramps  in  search  of  game.     If  desired,  a  boy  may  be  taken 


PLAN    OF    CAMPAIGN.  227 

along  for  this  especial  purpose.  In  every  case,  some  suc^  guar- 
dian is  very  necessary,  and  particularly  in  wild  districts,  abound- 
ing in  wolves  and  bears,  as  these  animals  have  an  odd  trick  of 
breaking  into  unguarded  shanties,  and  often  make  sad  havoc  with 
its  stores.  Steel  traps  are  almost  exclusively  used  by  the  pro- 
fessional trapper,  and  the  supply  for  a  single  campaign  will  often 
exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty.  Many  of  the  traps  described  in 
the  early  part  of  this  work  are  also  used,  and  for  the  amateur 
who  has  not  the  ready  cash  to  lay  out  in  steel  traps,  are  decid- 
edly to  be  recommended  and  will  be  found  very  efficient.  From 
thirty  to  fifty  traps  would  be  a  fair  number  for  an  ordinary  ama- 
teur trapping  season,  and  the  probable  cost  of  such  a  lot  would 
be  from  ^15  to  $25.  The  sizes  of  the  traps  will  depend  upon 
the  game  sought.  No.  2J^ being  a  good  average.  With  this  sup- 
ply, relying  somewhat  on  dead-falls,  twitch-ups,  and  the  vari- 
ous other  devices  described  in  our  early  pages,  we  can  guaran- 
tee lively  sport,  of  course,  presuming  that  good  judgment  has 
been  used  in  the  selection  of  a  trapping  ground.  In  later  arti- 
cles, under  the  proper  headings,  we  give  full  details  concerning 
food  and  cooking  utensils,  shelter  and  bedding,  as  well  as  many 
other  requisites  for  the  trapper's  comfort.  To  complete  the  list 
he  should  provide  himself  with  a  good  sharp  axe,  and  hatchet, 
and  if  the  log  canoe  is  in  anticipation  he  will  also  require  the 
other  tools  mentioned  on  page  259  an  oilstone  being  carried 
in  order  to  keep  the  various  tools  in  good  repair  ;  an  auger,  saw, 
and  some  large  nails  are  also  to  be  desired,  and  a  small  parcel 
containing  needles,  thread,  jDins,  scissors,  etc.,  will  be  found  in- 
dispensable. *' Cleanliness  is  next  to  Godliness,"  and  there  are 
no  more  luxurious  necessities  in  camp  life  than  a  piece  of  soap 
and  a  clean  towel.  For  light  it  is  advisable  to  carry  a  supply  of 
candles,  or  a  lantern  with  a  can  of  oil.  The  latter  is,  of  course, 
more  bulky,  and  for  a  campaign  wholly  on  foot  is  hardly  to  be 
recommended  on  this  account. 

Each  trapper  should  be  provided  with  a  stout  jack-knife, 
pocket-compass,  and  a  supply  of  matches,  a  number  of  these 
being  always  carried  on  the  person  to  provide  for  the  emergen- 
cies to  v/hich  the  hunter  is  always  subject. 

One  of  the  party  should  carry  a  double-barrelled  shot-gun  and 
another  a  rifle,  or  both  may  be  combined  in  a  single  weapon. 
A  revolver  is  also  a  desirable  acquisition.  Purified  neats-foot 
oil  should  be  used  on  the  fire-arms,  and  in  lieu  of  this,  some 
trappers  use  the  melted  fat  of  the  grouse  for  the  same  purpose. 
A  good  supply  of  fishing  tackle  is  almost  indispensable,  and 


228  THE   CAMPAIGN. 

with  these  valuable  equipments  the  young  trapper  may  defy  the 
wilderness  with  all  its  hazards.  With  his  traps,  gun  and  rod, 
together  with  his  store  of  provisions,  he  may  look  forward  to  a 
larder  well  stocked  and  may  calculate  on  an  appetite  which  will 
do  it  justice. 

The  list  of  portable  provisions  and  cooking  utensils  best 
adapted  for  a  campaign  are  given  under  their  proper  title,  and 
will  be  found  to  cover  all  the  wants  of  the  most  fastidious.  The 
stove  is  the  most  cumbersome  article,  but  trappers  generally 
dispense  with  its  use  altogether,  looking  at  it  rather  in  the  light 
of  a  luxury  as  well,  as  a  nuisance.  The  open  camp  fire  will 
answer  every  purpose,  both  for  cooking  and  for  comfort  in  cold 
weather. 

For  clothing  it  is  desirable  to  carry  at  least  two  suits,  in  order 
to  have  a  "change."  They  should  be  of  woolen,  and  from  the 
hunter^ s  point  of  view,  should  be  of  a  sombre  shade,  so  as  to 
be  as  inconspicuous  as  possible.  The  use  of  high-top  boots  is 
to  be  deprecated,  as  they  are  tiresome  and  unwieldy.  Short 
boots,  with  thick,  iron-pegged  soles,  are  generally  preferred  by 
trappers,  and  in  order  to  render  them  soft,  pliable,  and  water- 
proof they  may  be  soaked  or  smeared  with  a  hot  mixture,  com- 
posed of  one  part  rosin,  two  parts  beeswax,  and  three  parts 
tallow.  Simple  tallow,  or  even  the  fat  of  the  deer,  is  some- 
times used  for  the  same  purpose. 

Calculating  on  a  successful  campaign,  a  supply  of  board- 
stretchers,  page  273, will  be  needed  for  the  curing  of  the  skins, 
and  if  our  adventurous  enthusiasts  should  extend  their  experi- 
ence along  into  the  winter,  the  toboggan  and  snow-shoes  will 
come  into  good  use  for  convenient  winter  travel. 

The  trapping  season  properly  commences  in  October  and 
ends  in  April.  The  pelts  of  fur  bearing  animals  are  in  their 
best  condition  during  this  time,  and  in  the  winter  are  in  their 
prime.  The  various  modes  of  setting  and  baiting  traps  for  all 
our  leading  animals  are  clearly  set  forth  in  another  part  of  this 
volume.  And  in  the  accompanying  engravings  will  be  found 
life  like  representations  of  each  species. 

In  a  trapping  campaign  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  select  a 
central  point  for  the  home  shanty,  extending  the  trapping  lines 
in  several  directions  therefrom,  following  the  borders  of  the  lakes 
or  streams  for  the  otter,  beaver,  mink  and  muskrat ;  and  setting 
a  few  lines  inland  for  the  capture  of  martens,  racoons,  foxes, 
etc. 

For  an  amateur  campaign  this  a  most  excellent  and  convenient 


PLAN    OF    CAMPAIGN.  229 

arrangement,  the  lines  may  extend  all  the  way  from  one  to  fiv^c 
miles  each,  and  connect  at  their  edges,  the  whole  ground  plan 
resembling  the  form  of  a  wheel,  the  shanty  corresponding  to  the 
hub,  and  the  trapping  lines  the  spokes,  the  tire  representing 
the  circuit  connecting  the  various  lines.  Where  the  latter  ex- 
tend over  many  miles  it  is  well  to  construct  bark  shanties  at  the 
limits.  Let  each  trapper  take  a  certain  "  spoke,"  and  follow  it 
to  its  terminus,  returning  on  the  adjacent  line.  On  his  arrival 
at  the  shanty  he  should  immediately  set  to  work  skinning  the 
animals  taken,  and  stretching  their  furs.  Full  directions  for 
skinning  the  various  game  are  given  under  their  respective  titles, 
and  the  curing  of  skins  is  treated  in  detail  in  another  chapter  of 
this  work.  We  also  present  a  table  of  the  comparative  values 
of  the  various  American  furs  at  the  present  date  of  publication. 
Of  course  these  values  are  constantly  varying,  but  the  table  will 
serve  at  least  to  gauge  the  relative  values  of  common  and  scarce 
furs.  Great  care  should  always  be  used  in  removing  the  skins 
from  the  various  animals,  as  the  final  value  of  the  fur  much  de- 
pends upon  this.  They  should  not  be  removed  from  the  stretchers 
until  perfectly  dry,  and  should  then  be  laid  iji  a  cool,  airy  place. 
When  near  a  village  or  settlement  it  is  advisable  to  send  "  into 
town  "  every  few  days  with  a  batch  of  furs  for  safe  keeping,  and 
particularly  so  when  the  skins  are  valuable,  and  in  cases  where 
the  home  shanty  is  left  unguarded.  The  value  of  prime  otter 
or  mink  pelt  is  a  matter  of  no  small  importance,  and  a  good  trap- 
ping ground  furnishes  a  rare  field  for  light  fingered  prowlers  who 
are  well  posted  on  the  market  price  of  raw  furs,  and  who  are 
constantly  on  the  lookout  for  such  prizes,  either  in  the  shape  of  the 
prepared  skin,  or  on  the  back  of  the  live  animal.  These  "  trap 
robbers,"  or  poachers,  are  the  pests  of  trappers,  and  many  have 
learned  from  dear  experience  the  advisability  of  placing  their 
choice  furs  beyond  the  reach  of  the  marauders. 

The  hut  in  which  they  are  stored  is  nearly  always  kept 
guarded,  and,  where  this  is  impracticable,  the  skins  are  hid  in 
hollow  trees,  or  carried  to  some  near  settlement,  as  we  have 
already  mentioned. 

If  the  campaign  proves  successful  and  promises  well  for 
another  season,  it  is  customary  to  hide  the  traps  Ijcneath  rocks, 
thus  saving  the  labor  of  a  second  transportation.  In  order  to  keep 
the  traps  from  rusting,  it  is  well  to  cover  them  with  oat  or  buck- 
wheat chaff.  The  rock  should  be  first  rolled  from  its  resting  place, 
and  a  bed  of  the  chaff  made  beneath  it,  in  which  the  traps  should 
be  covered,  the  rock  being  afterwards  replaced.  In  a  few  such 
16 


230  THE    CAMPAIGN. 

places  all  the  traps  may  be  effectually  stored  away,  and  they 
will  be  found  in  prime  order  and  ready  for  business  on  the  iot 
lowing  season. 

In  the  months  of  September  and  October  trappers  are 
much  annoyed  by  gnats  and  mosquitoes,  and,  as  a  preventive 
against  the  attacks  of  these  pests,  we  give  on  page  255  some 
valuable  receipts,  which  have  stood  the  test  of  time,  and  are  still 
the  most  effective  remedies.  The  ^'  smudge,"  consisting  of  a 
smouldering  pile  of  birch  bark  is  also  used  where  the  insects 
infest  the  tents  or  shanties  by  night.  The  bark  should  be  dry, 
and  should  not  be  allowed  to  blaze.  The  smudge  is  generally 
placed  at  the  entrance  of  the  tent,  and  the  trapper  may  then 
take  his  choice  between  smoke  or  mosquitoes,  both  cannot  exist 
together,  and  a  tent  infested  with  the  blood-thirsty  pests  may  be 
effectually  cleared  in  a  few  minutes  by  the  introduction  of 
smoking  brand  for  a  few  seconds.  If  luc  tent  is  now  closely 
buttoned  and  the  smudge  kept  burning  directly  outside,  there 
will  be  no  further  trouble  with  the  mosquitoes,  and  the  odor  of 
the  smoke  is,  after  all,  but  a  slight  annoyance  and  to  some  is 
even  enjoyable  after  being  once  accustomed  to  it.  When 
the  home  shanty  is  infested,  it  may  be  cleared  in  the  same  way, 
and  by  the  aid  of  two  or  more  smudges  on  the  v/indward  side 
may  be  kept  free  from  the  insects. 

FOOD   AND    COOKING   UTENSILS. 

The  professional  trapper  on  a  campaign  depends  much  upon 
his  traps  for  his  food,  and  often  entirely  contents  himself  with  the 
subsistence  thus  gained.  We  encourage  and  believe  in  "  roughing 
it  "  to  a  certain  extent,  but  not  to  that  limit  to  which  it  is  often 
carried  by  many  professional  "followers  of  the  trap  "  throughout 
our  country.  The  course  of  diet  to  which  these  individuals  subject 
themselves,  Avould  often  do  better  credit  to  a  half  civilized  bar- 
barian than  to  an  enlightened  white  man,  and  when  it  comes  to 
starting  on  a  campaign  with  no  provision  for  food  excepting  a  few 
traps,  a  gun,  and  a  box  of  matches,  and  relying  on  a  chance  chip 
for  a  frying-pan,  he  would  rather  be  "  counted  out."  In  ordinary 
cases  we  see  no  necessity  for  such  deprivation,  and,  on  the  other 
hand,  we  decry  the  idea  of  transporting  a  whole  kitchen  and  larder 
into  the  woods.  There  is  a  happy  medium  between  the  two  ex- 
tremes, whereby  a  light  amount  of  luggage  in  the  shape  of 
cooking  utensils  and  closely  packed  portable  food,  may  render 
the  wild  life  of  the  trapper  very  cozy  and  comfortable,  and  his 


FOOD   AND   COOKING   UTENSILS. 


231 


meals  a  source  of  enjoyment,  instead  of  a  fulfilment  of  physical 
duty.  What  with  the  stock  of  traps,  necessary  tools,  blankets, 
etc.,  the  trapper's  burden  is  bound  to  be  pretty  heavy,  and  it  be- 
comes necessary  to  select  such  food  for  transportation  as  shall 
combine  the  greatest  amount  of  nutriment  and  the  least  possible 
weight,  and  to  confine  the  utensils  to  those  absolutely  necessary 
for  decent  cooking. 

The  trapper's  culinary  outfit  may  then  be  reduced  to  the  fol- 
lowing items,  and  in  them  he  will  find  a  sufficiency  for  very  pas- 
sable living. 

One  of  the  most  nutritious  and  desirable  articles  of  food  con- 
sists of  fine  sifted  Indian  meal;  and  it  is  the  only  substantial 
article  of  diet  which  many  trappers  will  deign  to  carry  at  all. 

By  some  ifc  is  mixed  with  twice  its  quantity  of  wheat  flour,  and 
is  thus  used  in  the  preparation  of  quite  a  variety  of  palat- 
able dishes.  One  or  two  pounds  of  salt  pork  will  also  be  found 
a  valuable  addition  ;  boxes  of  pepper  and  salt  and  soda  should 
also  be  carried.  With  these  simple  provisions  alone,  relying 
on  his  gun,  traps  and  fishing  tackle  for  animal  food,  the  young 
trapper  may  rely  on  three  enjoyable  meals  a  day,  if  he  is  any- 
thing of  a  cook.  Pork  fritters  are  not  to  be  despised,  even  at 
a  hotel  table  ;  and  with  the  above  they  can  be  made  to  suit  the 
palate  of  the  most  fastidious. 

Indian  meal  is  a  valuable  accessory  with  cooks  generally,  and 
to  the  trapper  it  often  becomes  his  great  "  staff  of  life."  If  our 
young  enthusiast  desires  to  try  his  hand  at  roughing  it  to  the 
fullest  extent,  compatible  with  common  sense  and  the  strength 
of  an  ordinary  physical  constitution,  he  may  endeavor  to  con- 
tent himself  with  the  above  portable  rations  ;  but  with  anything 
less  it  becomes  too  much  like  starva- 
tion to  arouse  our  enthusiasm.  For 
cooking  utensils,  a  small  frying-pan  and 
a  deep  tin  basin  are  indispensable  ;  and 
a  drinking  cup  is  also  to  be  desired. 
The  kind  known  as  the  telescope  cup, 
constructed  in  three  parts,  which  close 
within  each  other,  when  not  in  use,  pos- 
sesses great  advantages  on  account  of 
its  portability.  With  these  one  can  get 
along  pretty  decently. 

The  pork  fritters  already  mentioned 
form  a  favorite  dish  with  trappers 
generally,  and  can  be  made  in  the  fol- 


232  THE    CAMPAIGN. 

lowing  way;  have  at  hand  a  thick  batter  of  the  Indian 
meal  and  flour;  cut  a  few  shces  of  the  pork,  and  fry  them  in  the 
frying-pan  until  the  fat  is  tried  out ;  cut  a  few  more  slices  of 
the  pork  ;  dip  them  in  the  batter  and  drop  them  in  the  bubbling 
fat,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper ;  cook  until  light  brown  and 
eat  while  hot.  The  question  now  arises,  "What  shall  we  eat 
them  with  ?  "  If  you  are  "  roughing  it,"  such  luxuries  as  plates 
and  knifes  and  forks  are  surely  out  of  the  question ;  and  you 
must  content  yourself  with  a  pair  of  chop  sticks  "  a  la  Chinee," 
or  make  your  jackknife  do  double  purpose,  using  a  flat  chip  or 
stone  as  a  plate.  A  small  tin  plate  may  be  added  to  the  list  of 
utensils  if  desired,  but  we  are  now  confining  ourselves  to  the 
*' lowest  limit"  of  absolute  necessities.  That  wholesome  dish 
known  as  "  boiled  mush,"  may  come  under  the  above  bill  of  fare  ; 
and  fried  mush  is  an  old  stand-by  to  the  rough  and  ready  trap- 
per. In  the  first  case  the  Indian  meal  is  slowly  boiled  for  one 
hour,  and  then  seasoned  as  eaten.  It  is  then  allowed  to  cool, 
and  is  cut  in  slices  and  fried  in  fat.  Indian  meal  cakes  are 
easily  made  by  dropping  a  quantity  of  the  hot  mush  in  the  fry- 
ing-pan, having  previously  stirred  in  a  small  quantity  of  soda, 
and  turning  it  as  soon  as  the  lower  side  is  browned.  A  Johnny 
cake  thus  made  is  always  appetizing,  and  with  the  addition  of 
a  little  sugar,  it  becomes  a  positive  luxury.  Hoe  cakes,  so 
much  relished  by  many,  can  be  made  by  mixing  up  a  quantity 
into  a  thick  mass,  adding  a  little  soda.  Bake  in  the  fire  on  a 
chip  or  flat  stone.  The  trapper's  ground  is  generally  in  the 
neighborhood  of  lakes  or  streams,  and  fresh  fish  are  always  to 
be  had.  They  may  be  cooked  in  a  manner  which  would  tempt 
a  city  epicure ;  and  when  it  comes  to  the  cooking  of  a  fresh 
brook  trout,  neither  a  Prof.  Blot  nor  a  Delmonico  can  compete 
with  the  trapper's  recipe.  The  trout  is  first  emptied  and  cleaned 
through  a  hole  at  the  neck,  if  the  fish  is  large  enough  to  admit 
of  it ;  if  not,  it  should  be  done  by  a  slit  up  the  belly.  The  in- 
terior should  be  carefully  washed  and  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper  ;  and  in  the  case  of  a  large  fish,  it  should  be  stuffed  with 
Indian  meal.  Build  a  good  fire  and  allow  the  wood  to  burn 
down  to  embers  ;  lay  the  fish  in  the  hot  ashes  and  cover  it  with 
the  burning  coals  and  embers ;  leave  it  thus  for  about  half  an 
hour,  more  or  less,  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  fish  (this  may 
be  easily  determined  by  experiment) ;  when  done,  remove  it 
carefully  from  the  ashes,  and  peel  off  the  skin.  The  clean 
pink  flesh  and  delicious  savor  which  now  manifest  themselves 
will  create  an  appetite  where  none  before  existed.    All  the  deli- 


FOOD   AND  UTENSILS.  233 

cate  flavor  and  sweet  juices  of  the  fish  are  thus  retained,  and 
the  trout  as  food  is  then  known  in  its  perfection. 

By  the  ordinary  method  of  cooking,  the  trout  loses  mucn  of  its 
original  flavor  by  the  evaporation  of  its  juices  ;  and  although  a 
delicious  morsel  in  any  event,  it  is  never  fully  appreciated  ex- 
cepting after  being  roasted  in  the  ashes,  as  above  described. 

The  other  method  consists  in  rolling  the  fish  in  the  Indian 
meal  and  frying  it  in  the  frying-pan  with  a  piece  of  the  salt 
pork.     Seasoning  as  desired. 

Partridges,  ducks,  quail,  and  other  wild  fowl  are  most  deli- 
cious when  cooked  in  the  ashes  as  described  for  the  trout.  The 
bird  should  be  drawn  in  the  ordinary  manner,  and  the  inside 
washed  perfectly  clean.  It  should  then  be  embedded  in 
the  hot  coals  and  ashes,  the  feathers  having  been  previously 
saturated  with  water.  When  done,  the  skin  and  feathers  will 
easily  peel  off,  and  the  flesh  will  be  found  to  be  wonderfully 
sweet,  tender,  and  juicy.  A  stuffing  of  pounded  crackers  and 
minced  meat  of  any  kind,  with  plenty  of  seasoning,  greatly  im- 
proves the  result,  or  the  Indian  meal  may  be  used  if  desired. 
A  fowl  thus  roasted  is  a  rare  delicacy.  A  partridge,  squirrel, 
pigeon,  woodcock,  or  any  other  game  can  be  broiled  as  well  in 
the  woods  as  at  home,  using  a  couple  of  green-branched  twigs 
for  a  spider  or  "toaster,"  and  turning  occasionally.  For  this 
purpose  the  bird  should  be  plucked  of  its  feathers,  cleanly 
drawn  and  washed,  and  spread  out  by  cutting  down  the  back. 
Venison,  moose,  or  bear  meat,  can  be  deliciously  roasted  in 
joints  of  several  pounds  before  a  good  fire,  using  a  green  birch 
branch  as  a  spit,  and  resting  it  on  two  logs,  situated  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  fire.  The  meat  can  thus  be  occasionally  turned 
and  propped  in  place  by  a  small  stick,  sprinkling  occasionally 
with  salt  and  pepper.  The  above  manner  of  making  the  fire  is 
that  adopted  by  most  woodsmen.  Two  large  green  logs,  of 
several  feet  in  length,  being  first  laid  down  at  about  three  feet 
distant,  between  these  the  fire  is  built,  and  when  a  kettle  is  used 
a  heavy  pole  is  so  arranged  as  to  project  and  hold  it  over  the 
fire.  A  cutlet  of  venison  fried  in  the  pan  is  delicious,  and  a 
*' Johnny  cake"  cooked  in  the  fat  of  this  meat  is  a  decided 
dainty. 

With  the  above  hints  for  a  "  rough  and  ready  "  campaign, 
we  think  the  young  trapper  ought  to  be  able  to  get  along  quite 
comfortably. 

We  will  now  pass  on  to  the  consideration  of  what  the  average 


234  THE    CAMPAIGN. 

professional  trapper  would  call  "luxuries."  The  stock  of 
these  depends  much  upon  the  location  of  the  trapping  ground. 
If  accessible  by  wagon  or  boat,  or  both,  they  may  be  carried  in 
unlimited  quantities,  but  when  they  are  to  be  borne  on  the  back 
of  the  trapper  through  a  pathless  wilderness  of  miles,  the 
supply  will,  of  course,  have  to  be  cut  short.  When  two  or 
three  start  out  together  it  becomes  much  easier,  one  carrying 
the  traps  and  tools ;  another  the  guns,  cooking  utensils,  etc. ; 
the  third  confining  his  luggage  to  the  food.  One  of  the  most 
necessary  requisites  for  a  journey  on  foot  consists  in  a  knap- 
sack or  large  square  basket,  which  can  be  easily  strapped  to  the 
back  of  the  shoulders,  thus  leaving  the  hands  free.  Matches 
are  absolutely  indispensable,  and  a  good  supply  should  be  car- 
ried. They  should  always  be  enclosed  in  a  large-mouthed  bot- 
tle with  a  close  fitting  cork,  to  prevent  their  being  damaged  by 
moisture.  For  further  safety  in  this  regard  the  matches  may 
be  rendered  perfectly  water-proof  by  dipping  their  ends  in  thin 
mastic  or  shellac  varnish.  If  not  at  hand,  this  varnish  can  be 
easily  made  by  dissolving  a  small  quantity  of  either  sort  of  gum 
in  three  or  four  times  its  bulk  of  alcohol.  It  is  well  to  dip 
the  whole  stick  in  the  solution,  thereby  rendering  the  entire 
match  impervious  to  moisture.  Lucifer  matches  are  the  best, 
and,  when  thus  prepared,  they  may  lay  in  water  for  hours  with- 
out any  injury.  It  is  a  fearful  thing  to  find  oneself  in  the  wil- 
derness, cold  and  hungry,  and  without  the  means  of  lighting  a 
fire,  and  to  prepare  for  such  an  emergency  it  is  always  advisable 
to  be  provided  with  a  pocket  sun  glass.  So  long  as  the  sun 
shines  a  fire  is  thus  always  to  be  had,  either  by  igniting  a  small 
quantity  of  powder  (which  the  trapper  is  always  supposed  to 
carry)  or  using  powdered  "touch  wood  "  or  "punk  tinder"  in 
its  place.  Fine  scrapings  from  dry  wood  will  easily  ignite  by 
the  sun  glass,  and  by  fanning  the  fire  and  adding  additional 
fuel  it  will  soon  burst  into  flame.  In  cloudy  weather,  and  in 
the  absence  of  matches,  a  fire  may  easily  be  kindled  by  sprink- 
ling a  small  quantity  of  powder  on  a  large  flat  stone,  setting  a 
percussion  cap  in  its  midst,  and  covering  the  whole  with  dry 
leaves.  A  smart  strike  on  the  cap  with  a  hammer  will  have  the 
desired  result,  and  by  heaping  additional  fuel  on  the  blazing 
leaves  the  fire  soon  reaches  large  proportions.  If  the  young 
trapper  should  ever  be  so  unfortunate  as  to  find  himself  in  the 
wild  woods,  chilled  and  hungry,  minus  matches,  powder,  caps, 
and  sun  glass,  he  may  as  a  last  resort  try  the  following :  Scrape 
some  lint  or  cotton  from  some  portion  of  the  garment,  or  some 


FOOD   AND   COOKING   UTENSILS.  235 

tinder  from  a  dry  stick,  and  lay  it  on  the  surface  of  some  rough 
rock,  white  quartz  rock  if  it  can  be  found.  Next  procure  a 
fragment  of  the  same  stone,  or  a  piece  of  steel  from  some  one 
of  the  traps,  and  strike  its  edge  sharply,  and  with  a  skipping 
stroke  into  the  further  side  of  the  tinder,  the  direction  being 
such  as  will  send  the  sparks  thus  produced  into  the  inflammable 
material.  Continue  this  operation  until  the  tinder  ignites.  By 
now  gently  fanning  the  smoking  mass  it  may  easily  be  coaxed 
into  flame.  At  least  so  our  Adirondack  guide  told  us  last  sum- 
mer. The  author  has  never  had  occasion  to  test  the  merits  of 
the  plan  for  himself,  and  has  no  special  desire  of  being  so 
placed,  as  that  his  life  will  hang  upon  its  success.  He  presents 
it  therefore  as  a  mere  suggestion  without  endorsing  its  prac- 
tibility,  and  would  rather  prefer  matches  in  the  long  run.  The 
open  fire  generally  serves  both  for  purposes  of  warmth  and 
cooking,  but  by  many,  a  camp  stove  is  considered  a  great  im- 
provement. Stoves  of  this  character,  and  for  this  especial  pur- 
pose, are  in  the  market.  They  are  small  and  portable,  with 
pipe  and  furniture,  all  of  which  pack  away  closely  into  the  in- 
terior. A  fire  is  easily  started  in  one  of  these  stoves,  and,  by 
closing  the  damper,  a  slow  fire  may  be  kept  up  through  the 
night.  The  stove  is  generally  set  up  at  the  entrance  of  the 
tent,  the  pipe  passing  through  the  top,  in  a  hole  near  the  ridge 
pole.  The  furniture  consists  of  three  pots  or  kettles,  which  pack 
easily  into  each  other,  and  when  in  the  stove  still  leave  ample 
room  for  a  considerable  amount  of  provisions. 

The  kettles  are  made  of  block-tin,  and  frying-pans  also,  as 
these  are  much  more  light  and  portable  than  those  made  of  iron. 
The  lid  may  be  used  as  a  plate,  and  for  this  purpose  the  han- 
dle consists  of  an  iron  ring,  which  will  fold  flat  against  the 
surface  when  inverted.  Knives,  forks,  and  spoons  are  easily 
stowed  away  in  the  stove  or  knapsack,  and  a  coffee-pot  should 
always  be  carried.  There  is  a  knife  known  as  the  combination 
camp-knife,  which  is  much  used  by  hunters  and  trappers,  and 
contains  a  spoon,  fork,  knife,  and  various  other  useful  append- 
ages, in  a  most  compact  form.  It  costs  from  one  to  two 
dollars. 

For  provisions,  potatoes  will  be  found  excellent,  both  on  ac- 
count of  their  portabihty  and  the  variety  of  ways  in  which  they 
may  be  served.  They  are  healthy  and  nutritious,  and  always 
palatable.  Beans  are  also  very  desirable  for  the  same  reasons. 
Wheat  flour  will  form  a  valuable  addition  to  the  trapper's  larder, 
and  particularly  so,  if  the  "self-raising  "  kind  can  be  had.  This 


236  THE    CAMPAIGN. 

flour  contains  all  the  required  ingredients  for  light  bread  and 
biscuit,  and  is  sold  by  grocers  generally,  in  packages  of  various 
sizes,  with  accompanying  recipes.  We  strongly  recommend  it 
where  a  stove  is  employed ;  and  to  any  one  who  is  fond  of  bis- 
cuit, bread,  or  pancakes,  it  Avill  be  appreciated.  Butter,  lard, 
sugar,  salt,  pepper  and  mustard  are  valuable  accessories,  and 
curry-powder,  olive  oil,  and  vinegar  will  often  be  found  useful. 
Olive  oil  is  often  used  by  camping  parties  with  the  curry  powder, 
and  also  as  a  substitute  for  lard  in  the  frying-pan.  Pork,  Indian 
meal  and  crackers,  wheaten  grits,  rice,  and  oat-meal  are  desira- 
ble, and  coffee  and  tea  are  great  luxuries.  For  soups,  Liebig's 
extract  of  beef  is  a  most  valuable  article,  and  with  the  addition 
of  other  ingredients,  vegetables  or  meat,  the  result  is  a  most 
delicious  and  nutritious  dish.  This  extract  is  obtainable  at 
almost  any  grocer's,  and  full  directions  and  recipes  accompany 
each  jar.  Canned  vegetables  are  much  to  be  desired  on  ac- 
count of  their  portability,  and  are  never  so  delicious  as  when 
cooked  over  a  camp  fire.  Lemonade  is  always  a  luscious  bev- 
erage, but  never  so  much  so  as  to  a  thirsty  trapper.  A  few 
lemons  are  easily  carried  and  will  repay  the  trouble. 

All  provisions,  such  as  meal,  flour,  sugar,  salt,  crackers,  and 
the  like,  should  be  enclosed  in  water-proof  canvas  bags,  and 
labelled.  The  bags  may  be  rendered  water-proof  either  by 
painting,  (in  which  case  no  lead  or  arsenic  paints  should  be 
used)  or  by  dipping  in  the  preparation  described  on  page  247. 
If  these  are  not  used,  a  rubber  blanket,  page  250,  may  be  sub- 
stituted, the  eatables  being  carefully  wrapped  therein,  when  not 
in  use.  The  butter  and  lard  should  be  put  up  in  air-tight  jars, 
and  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  place,  either  on  the  ground  in  a 
shady  spot,  or  in  some  cool  spring. 

For  a  campaign  on  foot,  the  knapsack,  or  shoulder-basket, 
already  alluded  to  on  page  234,  is  an  indispensable  article.  It 
should  be  quite  large  and  roomy,  say  fifteen  inches  in  depth  and 
ten  by  twelve  inches  in  its  other  dimensions.  The  material 
should  be  canvas,  rubber  cloth,  or  wicker,  and,  in  any  case, 
the  opening  at  the  top  should  have  a  v/ater-proof  covering  ex- 
tending well  over  the  sides.  The  straps  may  consist  of  old 
suspender  bands,  fastened  crosswise  on  the  broad  side  of  the 
bag.  The  capacity  of  such  a  knapsack  is  surprising,  and  the 
actual  weight  of  luggage  seems  half  reduced  when  thus  carried 
on  the  shoulders.  When  three  or  four  trappers  start  together, 
which  is  the  usual  custom,  and  each  is  provided  with  such  a 
shoulder  basket,  the  luggage  can  be  thus  divided,  and  the  load 
for  each  individual  much  liditened. 


FOOD    AND    COOKING    UTENSILS.  237 

Venison  is  the  trapper's  favorite  food,  and  in  mild  weather 
it  sometimas  happens  that  tlie  overplus  of  meat  becomes  tainted 
before  it  can  be  eaten.  To  overcome  this  difficulty  the  following 
process  is  resorted  to,  for  the  preservation  of  the  meat,  and  the 
result  is  the  well-known  and  high-priced  "  jerked  venison " 
of  our  markets.  The  flesh  is  first  cut  into  small,  thin  strips, 
all  the  meat  being  picked  off  from  the  bones.  The  pieces  are 
then  placed  on  the  inside  of  the  hide  of  the  animal  and  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  salt,  a  pint  and  a  half  being  generally  suffi- 
cient. The  salt  being  well  worked  in,  the  fragments  should  be 
carefully  wrapped  in  the  hide,  and  suffered  to  remain  in  this 
condition  for  two  or  three  hours.  The  meat  is  then  ready  to  be 
dried, — "jerked." 

Four  forked  poles  should  be  first  driven  into  the  ground, 
about  six  feet  apart,  in  the  form  of  a  square,  the  forks  being 
four  feet  above  ground.  Lay  two  poles  of  green  wood 
across  the  forks  on  the  two  opposite  sides  of  the  square,  and 
cover  the  space  between  them  by  other  poles  laid  across  them, 
an  inch  or  two  inches  apart.  On  to  this  mammoth  gridiron  the 
strips  of  flesh  should  now  be  spread,  and  a  steady  fire  of  birch 
or  other  clean,  fresh  wood  should  be  kept  steadily  burning  be- 
neath for  about  twenty-four  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the 
meat  will  have  reduced  much  in  size  and  weight.  The  salt  will 
have  been  thoroughly  dried in^  and  the  flesh  so  prepared  maybe 
kept  for  almost  any  length  of  time.  In  its  present  condition  it 
is  excellent  eating,  and  it  is  always  at  hand  for  frying,  and  may 
be  cooked  in  a  variety  of  ways.  Moose  and  bear  meat  may  be 
dried  in  a  similar  manner,  using  a  proportionate  amount  of  salt. 
Fish  may  also  be  prepared  in  the  same  way,  for  which  purpose 
they  should  be  scaled  as  usual  and  afterward  spread  open  by 
cutting  down  the  back,  the  bone  being  removed.  We  cor- 
dially recommend  this  method  of  preparing  both  flesh  and  fish, 
and  no  trapper's  "  recipe  book  "  is  complete  without  it. 

In  localities  where  wolves  abound,  the  nocturnal  invasions  of 
these  creatures  often  render  the  keeping  of  fresh  meat  a  very 
difficult  task,  and  in  this  connection  it  may  be  well  to  give  di- 
rections for  the  preservation  of  game  desired  to  be  used  either 
as  fresh  meat  or  for  purposes  of  drying. 

The  spring-pole  is  most  commonly  and  successfully  used. 

Select  some  stout  sapHng,  bend  it  down,  and  cut  off  a  limb 
several  feet  from  the  ground.  Hang  the  meat  in  the  crotch 
thus  formed,  and  allow  the  tree  to  swing  back.  By  dividing 
the  meat  into  several  parts  it  may  thus  all  be  protected.   When 


238  THE   CAMPAIGN. 

a  moose  or  deer  is  killed  at  such  a  time  or  place,  or  under  such 
circumstances  as  render  its  immediate  dressing  impossible,  its 
carcass  may  be  defended  against  mutilation  by  another  means. 
Wolves  are  naturally  sly  and  sagacious,  and  have  a  wholesome 
fear  of  a  trap.  Any  unnatural  arrangement  of  logs  and  stones 
immediately  excites  their  suspicion,  and  the  trapper  takes  ad- 
vantage of  this  wary  peculiarity  to  good  purpose.  Laying  his 
dead  game  near  some  fallen  tree  or  old  log  he  strews  a  few 
branches  over  the  carcass,  or  perhaps  rests  a  log  over  it.  Some- 
times he  hangs  the  entrails  of  the  animal  over  the  body,  on  a 
forked  stick,  any  one  of  which  devices  is  said  to  have  the  de- 
sired result.  The  wolverine  is  another  pest  to  the  trapper,  and 
not  being  so  sly  as  the  wolf,  never  hesitates  to  pounce  upon  any 
flesh  within  its  reach.  The  former  method,  therefore,  is  always 
the  safest  plan  for  absolute  protection  against  all  animals. 

The  moose  and  deer  are  the  favorite  food  of  trappers  in  the 
country  where  these  animals  abound,  and  the  trappers  of  the 
Far  West  find  in  the  flesh  of  the  Moufflon,  or  Rocky  Moun- 
tain sheep,  a  delicacy  which  they  consider  superior  to  the  finest 
venison.  The  prong-horn  antelope  of  the  Western  plains  is 
another  favorite  food-animal  with  hunters,  and  the  various 
"small  game,"  such  as  squirrels,  rabbits,  woodchucks,  etc.,  are 
by  no  means  to  be  despised.  The  author  once  knew  a  trapper 
who  was  loud  in  his  praises  of  "  skunk  meat "  for  food,  and 
many  hunters  can  testify  to  its  agreeable  flavor  when  properly 
dressed  and  cooked.  It  is  hard,  to  be  sure,  to  get  up  much  en- 
thusiasm over  a  skunk,  dead  or  alive,  but  where  other  food  is  not 
to  be  had  we  would  discourage  the  young  trapper  from  being 
too  fastidious. 

The  buffalo,  or  bison,  is  the  great  resource  of  the  trappers  of 
the  West.  The  tongue,  tenderloin  and  brisket  are  generally 
preferred,  but  all  the  meat  is  eatable.  The  flesh  of  the  cow  is 
best.  It  much  resembles  beef,  but  has  a  more  gamey  flavor.  In 
winged  game  there  is  no  food  superior  to  the  flesh  of  the  grouse, 
and  the  great  number  of  the  species  and  wide  range  of  territory 
which  they  inhabit  render  them  the  universal  food  game  of  traj> 
pers  throughout  the  world.  The  ruffed  grouse  or  partridge, 
pinnated  grouse  or  prairie  hen,  spruce  or  Canada  grouse,  and 
the  cock-of-the-plains  or  sage  cock,  are  familiar  American  exam- 
ples of  the  family,  and  their  near  relatives,  the  ptarmigans,  afford 
a  valuable  source  of  food  to  the  trappers  and  hunters,  as  well 
as  general  inhabitants  of  our  northern  cold  countries.  Here 
they  are  known  as  "  snow  grouse,"  and  there  are  several  spe- 


FOOD   AND   COOKING   UTENSILS.  239 

cies.  The  willow  ptarmigan  is  the  most  common,  and  in  some 
localities  exists  in  almost  incredible  numbers.  Flocks  number- 
ing several  thousand  have  been  frequently  seen  by  travellers  in 
the  Hudson's  Bay  territory ;  and  the  surface  of  the  snow  in  a 
desirable  feeding  ground,  is  often  completely  covered  by  the 
birds,  in  quest  of  the  willow  tops,  which  form  their  chief  food 
during  the  winter  season.  The  Indians  and  natives  secure  the 
birds  in  large  numbers,  by  the  trap  described  on  pa^e  75,  and 
Hearne,  the  traveller  and  explorer  of  the  Hudson's 'Bay  region, 
asserts  that  he  has  known  over  three  hundred  to  be  thus  caught 
in  a  single  morning,  by  three  persons. 

Of  water  fowl,  ducks  and  geese  are  especially  to  be  recom- 
mended. The  former  are  hunted  with  decoys  and  boats,  and 
are  sometimes  trapped,  as  described  on  pages  94.  The  species 
are  distinguished  as  sea  ducks  and  river  or  inland  ducks. 
The  latter  are  considered  the  most  desirable  for  food,  being 
more  delicate  and  less  gamey  in  flavor  than  the  salt-water,  or 
fish-eating  varieties.  The  mallard,  teal,  muscovy,  widgeon,  and 
wood-duck  are  familiar  species  of  the  inland  birds,  and  the 
merganser  and  canvass-back  are  the  two  most  esteemed  salt-water 
varieties.  Wild  geese  are  common  throughout  North  America, 
and  may  be  seen  either  in  the  early  spring  or  late  fall  migrating 
in  immense  numbers.  They  form  a  staple  article  of  food  in 
many  parts  of  British  America,  and  great  numbers  are  salted 
down  for  winter  supply.  They  are  trapped  in  large  numbers, 
as  described  on  page  75,  and  are  hunted  with  tame  geese  as 
decoys,  the  hunter  being  secreted  behind  a  screen  or  covert, 
and  attracting  the  game  by  imitating  their  cries. 

Fish  form  an  agreeable  change  to  the  trapper's  diet,  and  may 
be  caught  by  the  hook  and  Hne,  or  by  spearing.  The  latteV 
method  requires  considerable  practice  and  skill,  but  is  very  suc- 
cessful. The  Indians  of  the  North  are  great  experts  in  the  use 
of  the  spear,  and  the  number  of  salmon  taken  by  them  annu- 
ally is  enormous.  The  spear  generally  consists  of  five  or  six 
steel  prongs  an  inch  apart  and  barbed  at  the  ends.  It  is 
mounted  on  a  heavy  handle,  and  when  it  strikes  its  victim  its 
grip  is  sure  death.  The  spearing  is  generally  performed 
either  at  the  spawning  beds  or  at  the  falls. 

Salmon  trout  are  generally  speared  in  the  night  time  by  boat, 
the  spawning  ground,  generally  a  gravel  bank  near  the  shore,  be- 
ing the  seat  of  operations.  A  fire  of  pitch  pine  and  birch  bark 
is  ignited  on  an  elevated  ''jack"  in  the  bow  of  the  boat,  the 
"jack"  consisting  of  an  ox-muzzle,  or  other  concave  wire  con- 


240  THE   CAMPAIGN. 

trivance  which  will  hold  the  inflammable  materials.  This  is  se- 
cured to  a  post  or  crotched  stick,  as  a  prop,  and  the  spearman 
stands  near  the  burning  mass  with  his  spear  in  readiness.  As  his 
companion  in  the  stern  of  the  boat  paddles,  he  keenly  watches 
for  his  victim,  and,  seeing  his  opportunity,  makes  his  lunge  and 
lands  his  prize.  To  become  a  successful  spearman  requires 
much  practice  and  no  small  degree  of  skill.  To  retain  one's 
balance,  acquire  quickness  of  stroke,  and  withal  to  regulate  the 
aim  so  as  to  allow  for  the  refraction  of  the  light  in  the  water, 
all  tend  to  invest  the  sport  with  a  degree  of  skill  which  only 
experience  can  master. 

Fishing  through  the  ice  in  winter  is  a  rare  sport,  and  large 
numbers  of  brook  and  lake  trout  are  often  taken  at  this  season 
by  cutting  holes  through  the  ice  and  fishing  with  hook  and  line. 
The  baits  commonly  used  consist  of  cow's  udder  or  hog's  liver, 
these  being  especially  jDreferred  on  account  of  their  toughness. 
Angle  worms  are  also  excellent,  and  any  kind  of  raw  meat  may 
be  used  if  other  bait  is  not  to  be  had. 

It  is  asserted  by  some  sportsmen  that  bait  scented  with  assa- 
foetida  is  much  more  attractive  to  the  fish,  and  will  insure  a  cap- 
ture which  would  otherwise  be  impossible.  Sweet  cicily  and 
anise  are  also  used  for  the  same  purpose.  When  the  trout  bite 
lively,  fishing  through  the  ice  is  a  most  exciting  sport,  and  by 
the  aid  of  ^'tip-ups"  a  single  person  may  command  a  great  num- 
ber of  lines.  The  winter  resort  of  the  brook  trout  is  in  water 
two  or  three  feet  deep,  over  sandy  beds.  The  lake  trout  fre- 
quent deeper  water. 

The  holes  are  made  in  the  ice  at  intervals  of  one  or  two  rods, 
and  a  line  set  in  each  hole. 

The  "  tip-up  "  consists  of  a  narrow  strip  of  lath  or  shingle, 
with  a  hole  bored  through  it  near  the  large  end.  At  this  end 
the  line  is  attached,  and  the  hook  thrown  in  the  water.  A 
branch  is  now  inserted  through  the  aperture,  and  its  ends  are 
rested  across  the  opening  in  the  ice.  No  sooner  does  the  fish 
bite  than  the  long  end  tips  straight  in  the  air,  and  thus  betrays 
its  captive.  Ten  or  fifteen  of  these  contrivances  will  often 
keep  one  pretty  busy,  and  do  good  service.  By  some  an  ordi- 
nary cut  fish  pole,  arranged  on  a  crotch,  is  used  instead  of  the 
tip-ups  just  described.  Pickerel  fishing  through  the  ice  is  a 
favorite  winter  sport  in  many  localities.  The  line  should  be 
about  thirty  feet  in  length,  and  the  bait  should  consist  of  a 
small,  live  fish,  hooked  through  the  back.  A  small  cork  float 
should  be  attached  to  the  line  at  such  a  distance  as  will  keep 


FOOD   AND   COOKING    UTENSILS.  241 

the  bait  above  the  bottom,  and  the  superfluous  line  should  be 
laid  in  a  loose  coil  near  the  hole,  the  end  being  attached  to  a 
small  switch  or  bush,  stuck  up  in  the  ice  near  by.  The  pick- 
erel, on  taking  the  bait,  should  be  allowed  to  play  out  the  whole 
line  before  being  pulled  in,  as  the  fish  requires  this  time  to  fully 
swallow  his  prey,  after  which  the  hook  is  sure  to  hold  him  firmly. 
Twenty  or  thirty  lines  may  thus  be  attended  at  once,  the  bush 
or  twig  acting  the  part  of  a  tii>up,  or  sentinel. 

Pickerel  spearing  is  another  successful  mode  of  capture  dur- 
ing the  winter  months.  A  large  hole  is  made  in  the  ice,  in 
about  two  feet  of  water,  and  covered  by  a  spacious  box  or  board 
hut,  six  or  seven  feet  square,  and  provided  with  a  door.  The 
spearman,  concealed  within,  lowers  his  bait,  consisting  of  an 
artificial  fish  with  silver  fins,  made  especially  for  the  purpose. 
This  he  continually  twirls  in  the  water,  and  as  the  pickerel  ap- 
proaches the  bait,  he  gradually  raises  it,  until  the  fish  is  decoyed 
nearly  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  when  a  quick  stroke  of  the 
spear  secures  his  victim,  and  the  fine  is  again  lowered.  This  is 
capital  sport,  and  is  very  successful. 

There  is  a  very  curious  device  for  fishing  by  night  commonly 
employed  by  some  anglers,  and  sometimes  known  as  the  "lantern, 
or  fish  trap."  Many  kinds  of  fish  are  attracted  by  alight,  but  to 
use  a  light  as  a  bait,  submerged  beneath  the  water,  certainly 
seems  odd.  It  may  be  done,  however,  in  the  following  way : 
The  "fish  lantern"  used  for  this  purpose  consists  of  a  bottle 
containing  a  solution  of  phosphorus  in  sweet  oil.  Procure  a 
piece  of  the  stick  phosphorus  the  size  of  a  small  cherry,  and 
submerging  in  a  saucer  of  water,  proceed  to  cut  it  into  small 
pieces.  Have  in  readiness  a  three-ounce  white  glass  bottle  half 
filled  with  sweet  oil.  Drop  the  pieces  of  phosphorus  into  the 
oil  and  cork  the  bottle  tightly.  In  the  space  of  a  few  hours  the 
phosphorus  will  have  been  completely  dissolved,  and  the  con- 
tents of  the  bottle  will  present  a  thick,  luminous  fluid,  which 
in  a  dark  room,  will  afford  considerable  light.  This  is  the  fish 
lantern.  To  use  it,  the  cork  is  firmly  inserted  and  the  bottle, 
with  fish  line  attached,  is  lowered  through  the  hole  in  the  ice. 
The  water  becomes  luminous  for  several  feet  around,  and  the 
unusual  brightness  attracts  the  fish  in  large  numbers.  ^  They 
are  plainly,  discernible,  and  are  readily  dispatched  with  the 
spear,  or  captured  by  a  circular  net,  sunk  on  the  bottom,  be- 
neath the  luminous  bait.  This  is  certainly  an  odd  way  of  catch- 
ing fish,  but  it  is  often  a  very  efficacious  method. 

It  has  not  been   our  intention  to  enter  very  extensively  into 


242  THE    CAMPAIGN. 

the  subject  of  fishing,  but  only  to  give  such  hints  as  will  be 
found  especially  useful  and  practical  to  the  trapper  in  relation 
to  his  food.  The  above  methods,  together  with  those  of  troll- 
ing and  fly-fishing,  are  those  most  commonly  employed  by  trap- 
pers and  hunters  generally,  and  we  commend  them  to  the 
amateur. 

We  give,  on  page  120,  a  unique  device  for  the  capture  of 
fish,  which  might  also  be  found  useful. 

With  the  above  general  remarks  on  the  campaign,  together 
with  what  follows  in  the  detailed  articles  on  the  subject,  we 
think  that  the  ground  will  have  been  completely  covered.  Every 
possible  requirement  has  been  anticipated,  and  every  ordinary 
emergency  forseen  and  provided  against. 

THE   trapper's    SHELTER. 

The  life  of  the  professional  trapper  is  a  life  of  hardship  and 
severe  exposure,  and  a  man  not  only  requires  considerable  cour- 
age, but  also  great  bodily  vigor,  in  order  to  combat  successfully 
the  dangers  of  such  a  wild,  adventuresome  existence. 

The  cold  and  the  storm  not  only  imperil  his  life,  but  he  is 
often  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  wild  beasts.  A  shelter,  there- 
fore, in  one  form  or  another,  becomes  a  necessity  while  it  is 
always  a  decided  comfort,  in  comparison  to  a  campaign  with- 
out it. 

The  reader  will  find  below  descriptions  of  the  various  shel- 
ters alluded  to  in  other  parts  of  this  work,  and  used  by  trappers 
throughout  the  land. 

The  most  substantial  of  these  is  the  log  shanty,  commonly 
known  among  trappers  as  the  "home  shanty,'^  on  account  of  its 
being  constructed  as  the  only  permanent  shelter  on  the  trap- 
ping line. 

It  is  used  as  a  "home,"  a  place  of  rendezvous,  and  a  store- 
house for  provisions,  furs,  and  other  necessities  and  valuables. 
Other  temporary  shelters,  known  as  bark  shanties,  are  also  con- 
structed along  the  trapping  lines  at  intervals  of  five  or  ten  miles, 
as  resting  places.     These  we  describe  under  the  proper  title. 

Although,  to  the  amateur  trapper,  the  log  shanty  is  not  likely 
to  become  a  necessity,  we  will  nevertheless  describe  its  mode  of 
construction,  in  order  to  satisfy  our  more  earnest  and  adventur- 
ous readers,  who  aspire  to  a  full  taste  of  wild  life. 

Our  illustration  gives  a  very  clear  idea  of  such  a  shanty. 

It  may  be  constructed  of  any  size,  but  one  of  about  twelve 


THE  TRAPPER  S  SHELTER. 


243 


The  Home  Shanty. 


244  THE   CAMPAIGN., 

by  ten  feet  will  be  found  large  enough  for  ordinary  purposes. 
Select  straight  logs,  about  eight  inches  in  diameter.  The  whole 
■number  required  will  be  thirty-six.  Of  these  one-half  should 
be  twelve  feet  in  length  and  the  other  ten.  These  should  now  be 
built  up  in  the  square  form,  on  a  level  piece  of  ground,  laying 
the  ends  of  the  logs  over  each  other,  and  securing  them  by 
notches  at  the  corners,  so  deep  as  to  allow  the  edges  of  the  logs  to 
meet.  Lay  two  short  logs  first,  and  continue  building  until  all  the 
thirty-six  logs  are  used,  and  we  will  now  have  four  symmetrical 
sides  about  six  feet  in  height.  The  place  for  the  door  should  now 
be  selected.  The  uppermost  log  should  form  its  upper  outline, 
and  the  two  sides  should  be  cleanly  and  straightly  cut  with  a  cross- 
cut saw.  The  window  openings,  one  or  more,  may  next  be  cut, 
commencing  beneath  the  second  log  from  the  top,  and  taking  in 
three  beneath  it.  Replace  the  logs  above,  and  on  the  ends 
of  those  thus  cut,  both  in  windows  and  doors,  proceed  to  spike 
a  heavy  plank,  driving  two  nails  into  each  log,  about  five  inches 
apart,  one  above  the  other.  This  will  hold  them  firmly  in  place, 
and  offer  a  close-fitting  jam  for  the  door,  and  neat  receptacle 
for  the  window  sashes,  which  latter  may  now  be  put  in  after  the 
ordinary  manner. 

The  gable  ends  should  next  be  built  upon  the  smaller  sides 
of  the  hut.  Commence  by  laying  a  long  log  (notched  as  before) 
across  the  top  of  the  frame  work,  and  about  two  feet  inside  the 
edge.  This  should  of  course  be  done  on  both  .sides  of  the  hut, 
after  which  they  should  be  overlapped  at  the  corners  with  logs 
eight  feet  in  length.  Next  lay  two  more  long  logs,  parallel  with 
the  first  two,  and  about  a  foot  inside  them,  notching  as  before. 
The  ends  of  these  should  be  spanned  with  beams  eight  feet  in 
length.  Two  more  long  logs  are  next  in  order — let  them  be 
one  foot  inside  the  last  two.  Overlap  these  with  beams  five 
feet  and  a  half  in  length,  and  in  the  exact  centre  of  these  last 
pieces  chop  notches  for  a  heavy  log  for  a  ridge  pole.  The  gable 
outline,  direct  from  the  ridge  pole  to  the  eaves,  should  now  be 
cut  off  by  the  aid  of  a  sharp  axe.  This  may  be  done  either 
while  the  pieces  are  in  position,  or  the  line  may  be  marked  with 
a  piece  of  chalk,  and  the  logs  taken  down  in  order  to  accom- 
plish it.  The  roof  is  now  required.  This  should  consist  either 
of  strips  of  bark  or  the  rounded  sides  of  logs  split  off  and  hol- 
lowed into  troughs.  The  latter  method  is  preferable,  on  account 
of  its  greater  strength  and  durability,  but  the  bark  will  answer 
the  purpose  very  well,  and  is  much  more  easily  obtained.  The 
manner  of  adjusting  the  roof  pieces  is   clearly  shown  in  our 


DARK   SHANTY.  245 

illustration.  The  first  row  is  laid  on  with  the  hollow  side  up, 
securing  them  at  top  and  bottom  by  nails  driven  through 
each  into  the  ridge  pole  and  eaves-log,  care  being  taken  that 
one  of  these  pieces  projects  well  over  the  gable,  on  both  ends 
of  the  hut.  These  pieces  are  now  overlapped  by  the  second 
row,  and  v/ith  the  addition  of  the  large  piece  which  covers 
them  all  at  the  ridge  pole,  the  roof  is  complete,  and  will  stand 
a  heavy  rain  with  little  or  no  leaking.  The  crevices  should  now 
be  stopped  with  moss,  dried  grass  or  clay,  after  which  the  log 
cabin  is  complete.  "VV'hen  the  bark  roof  is  made,  additional 
poles  may  be  inserted  beneath  as  props.  They  should  be  three 
or  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  run  parallel  with  the  ridge  pole, 
at  intervals  on  the  slope,  notches  being  cut  to  secure  them. 

Our  engraving  represents  a  chimney,  which  may  be  con- 
structed if  desired,  but  the  necessity  of  this  may  be  done  away 
with  by  using  a  small  camp  stove,  and  making  a  small  opening 
in  the  gable  end  of  the  hut  for  the  passage  of  the  pipe.  If  a 
stove  should  not  be  at  hand,  and  our  amateur  should  decide  to 
"rough  it"  to  the  full  extent,  he  may  build  his  fire-place  and 
chimney  as  follows  :  It  v/ill  be  necessary  to  cut  away  an  open- 
ing in  the  logs  at  the  gable  end,  as  was  done  for  the  door  and 
windows.  This  should  be  about  three  feet  square,  and  the  fire 
place  should  be  built  of  stone  and  clay,  or  cement,  to  till  the 
opening,  and  project  inside  the  hut. 

The  chininey  may  then  be  built  up  outside  in  the  same  man- 
ner, sufficiently  high  to  overtop  the  gables. 

Inside  the  hut  overhead  will  be  found  abundant  room  for  the 
hanging  of  the  skins,  and  any  number  of  cross-poles  may  be 
rested  across  the  beams.  There  are  facilities  for  the  swinging 
of  a  hammock,  if  desired,  and,  in  fact,  a  hut  constructed  like 
the  foregoing  is  a  perfect  one  in  its  way.  There  are  other 
methods  of  building  a  log  cabin,  but  we  will  content  ourselves 
with  what  v/e  consider  the  best  way  of  all,  and  pass  on  to  the 

BARK   SHANTY. 

This  is  made  by  first  driving  into  the  ground  two  foiked 
poles  seven  or  eight  feet  in  height  and  stout  enough  to  sustain 
a  ridge  pole  of  moderate  size.  Against  this  ridge  pole  other 
poles  should  be  rested  at  intervals  of  two  feet,  and  sloping  to 
the  angle  of  forty-five  degrees.  The  frame-work  thus  formed 
should' now  be  covered  with  bark,  commencing  at  the  ground 
and  allowing  the  edge  of  each  piece  to  overlap  the  one  beneath 

17 


24^  THE    CAMPAIGN. 

after  the  manner  of  shingles,  in  order  to  shed  the  rain  in  case 
of  storm.  Spruce  or  birch  bark  are  excellent  for  this  purpose, 
and  the  pieces  may  be  secured  with  nails,  and  kept  flat  by  the 
weight  of  another  series  of  poles  rested  against  them.  The 
sides  of  the  shelter  should  be  treated  similarly,  the  front  being 
usually  left  open  to  face  the  fire,  which  the  trapper  generally 
builds  a  few  feet  distant.  In  constructing  a  bark  shanty,  it  is 
well  to  select  some  spot  protected  from  the  wind,  close  to  the 
foot  of  a  mountain  or  in  the  midst  of  trees,  always  letting  the 
open  side  face  the  direction  most  sheltered. 

If  desired,  the  front  can  be  enclosed  after  the  manner  of  the 
sides  and  top,  but  this  is  not  required  where  the  fire  is  used. 

This  style  of  shelter  is  represented  in  our  page  title  to  this 
section,  and  certainly  looks  very  comfortable. 

TENTS. 

Shanties  like  the  foregoing  are  in  general  use  among  the  old 
veteran  trappers  of  all  countries,  and  even  to  the  amateur  there 
is  a  charm  in  a  shelter  constructed  from  the  rude  materials  of 
the  woods  which  the  portable  tents  do  not  possess. 

Tents,  however,  are  much  used  both  by  professionals  and  ama- 
teurs, and  are  indeed  valuable  acquisitions  to  the  trapper's  outfit, 
and  where  time  is  valuable,  do  away  with  the  labor  which  the 
construction  of  a  hut  or  shanty  involves. 

Tents  are  of  several  kinds.  Those  most  commonly  used  by 
the  trapper  are  the  house-tent,  fly-tent,  and  half-tent,  or  shelter- 
tent. 

The  first  of  these  is  made  for  prop-poles  and  a  ridge  pole, 
closed  on  one  end  and  buttoning  up  at  the  other.  The  sides  are 
perpendicular  for  two  or  three  feet,  before  the  slope  commences, 
and  the  stay-ropes  are  fastened  to  the  eaves. 

The  fly-tent  is  generally  a  large,  square  piece  of  canvas,  with 
ropes  extending  from  opposite  sides.  This  is  thrown  over  a  ridge 
pole,  or  over  a  rope  extending  between  two  trees,  and  the  sides 
are  held  to  the  proper  slope  by  tightening  and  pegging  the  side 
ropes  to  the  ground.  Fly-tents  are  also  made  with  ends,  which 
can  be  lowered,  and  the  whole  tent  may  be  pegged  close  to  the 
ground. 

The  shelter-tent,  when  erected,  resembles,  in  general  shape, 
the  bark  shanty  already  described.  It  consists  of  a  strip  of 
canvas,  having  each  end  cut  off  to  a  point.  The  tent  is  pitched 
over  three  slanting  poles,  and  the  ends  are  brought  down  and 
securely  pegged.     This  is  clearly  shown  in  our  illustration. 


TENTS. 


247 


We  do  not  propose  giving  any  extended  directions  for  mak- 
ing tents,  as  they  are  a  staple  article  of  trade,  and,  as  a  general 
thing,  can  be  bought  for  a  figure  which  would  render  their  do- 
mestic manufacture  of  little  saving  or  profit.  The  shelter-tent, 
however,   is   so  useful   an   affair,   and  withal  so  very  simple 


made,  that  we  will  give  a  few  directions  in  regard  to  its  manu- 
facture. It  should  be  made  from  stout  cotton  drilling,  or  very 
heavy  sheeting.  Let  the  piece  be  about  thirteen  feet  in  length 
by  six  in  width.  Each  end  of  the  piece  should  now  be  cut  to 
a  rectangular  point,  commencing  to  cut  at  a  distance  of  three 
feet  from  each  corner.  In  order  to  render  the  cloth  water- 
proof, it  should  now  be  dipped  in  a  pail  containing  a  solution  of 
equal  parts  of  alum  and  sugar  of  lead,  a  couple  of  handfuls  of 
each,  in  tepid  water.  It  should  be  allowed  to  remain  several 
minutes  in  soak,  being  dipped  and  turned  occasionally,  after 
which  it  should  be  spread  out  to  dry.  This  treatment  not  only 
renders  the  cloth  impervious  to  rain,  but  the  alum  tends  to 
make  it  fire-proof  also.  A  spark  from  the  fire  falling  upon  a 
tent  thus  prepared,  will  often  rest  upon  the  cloth  until  it  goes 
out,  without  doing  the  slightest  damage. 


248 


THE    CAMPAIGN. 


The  manner  of  pitching  the  tent  has  already  been  alluded  to, 
and  is  clear  from  our  illustration.  The  poles  should  be  three 
or  four  in  number,  and  seven  feet  in  length,  inserted  in  the 
ground  at  the  angle  denoted.  The  two  outside  poles  should  be 
seven  feet  apart,  and  the  intermediate  ones  equally  disposed. 
The  tent  piece  should  now  be  laid  over  the  poles,  and  the  ends 
brought  down  and  pegged  to  the  ground  at  the  apex,  and  rear 
comers  of  each  side  through  loops,  which  should  have  been 
previously  attached  to  these  parts.  A  tent,  thus  arranged, 
affords  a  safe  shelter  from  the  wind  or  a  moderate  storm,  and 
with  a  bright  fire  in  front,  is  warm  and  comfortable. 

BEDS   AND  BEDDING. 

Many  a  trapper  does  away  with  these  commodities,  merely 
rolling  himself  in  a  blanket  and  using  his  arm  for  a  pillow  ;  but 
we  do  not  propose  to  encourage  or  recommend  any  such  half- 
way comfort  as  this,  when  by  a  very  little  labor  a  portable  bed 


can  be  prepared  on  which  the  weary  hunter  can  rest  as  serenely 
as  if  slumbering  on  the  congenial  softness  of  a  hair  mattrass. 
A  bed  of  this  kind  we  illustrate,  and  it  can  be  made  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner  :  Procure  a  large  piece  of  canvas,  sacking  or 
other  strong,  coarse  material  six  and  a  half  feet  square.  If  a 
single  piece  of  this  size  cannot  be  found,  several  parts  may  he 
sewed  together  to  the  required  dimensions.  After  which  two 
opposite  s]^s  should  be  firmly  stitched  together,  thus  forming 


BEDS   AND    BEDDING. 


249 


a  bottomless  bag,  if  we  may  be  allowed  to  use  the  expression. 
Two  stout  poles  seven  or  eight  feet  in  length  and  as  large  as  the 
wrist  should  now  be  cut.  Insert  them  through  the  bag,  allow- 
ing the  ends  to  project  equally  on  each  side.  These  ends 
should  now  be  rested  on  two  logs,  one  placed  across  each  end  of 
the  canvas.  In  order  to  hold  the  poles  in  place  notches  should 
be  cut  in  the  logs  at  such  distances  as  will  draw  the  bag  to  its 
full  width.  The  interior  of  the  canvas  should  now  be  filled 
with  dried  grass,  leaves,  moss  or  spruce  boughs,  after  which 
the  bedstead  and  bed  is  complete. 

The  yielding  elasticity  of  the  poles  and  the  softness  of  the 
warm  filling  in  the  bag,  give  the  effect  of  a  spring  and  straw 
mattrass  combined,  lifting  the  sleeper  above  the  cold,  damp 
ground,  and  by  the  addition  of  a  blanket  above,  insuring 
warmth  on  all  sides.  If  the  logs  are  not  at  hand  four  forked 
stakes  may  be  used,  driving  them  firmly  into  the  ground  at 
such  distances  as  will  draw  the  bag  to  its  full  width,  when  the 
poles  are  rested  upon  them.  If  by  the  weight  of  the  body  the 
forked  props  should  tend  to  incline  towards  each  other  this 
trouble  may  be  easily  remedied  by  inserting  short  poles  as  braces 
between  them.  If  desired  a  bed  of  this  kind  may  be  used  as  a 
hammock  and  hung  in  a  tree  without  much  trouble.  It  is  only 
necessary  to  secure  the  long  poles  firmly  at  their  full  width  by 
a  stout  brace  pole  at  the  ends,  letting  the  latter  be  deeply  notch- 
ed at  the  tips  in  order  to  receive  the  bed  supports.  The  joints 
should  then  be  tightly  bound  with  stout  twine  in  order  to  pre- 
vent shpping,  after  which  the  bed  may  be  hung  in  mid-air  by 
ropes  at  each  end,  and  the  tired  trapper  may  swing  himself  to 
sleep  with  perfect  comfort  and  safety.  For  this  purpose  the 
ropes  should  be  attached  at  the  joints,  using  a  loop  of  six  feet 
for  each  end.  In  the  centre  of  this  loop  a  small  one  should  be 
made  by  doubling  the  rope  and  winding  twine  about  it,  leaving 
only  a  small  aperture.  Through  these  small  loops,  by  the  aid  of 
other  ropes,  the  bed  is  attached  to  the  tree.  By  using  this  pre- 
caution the  unpleasant  experience  of  being  turned  or  dumped 
out  of  bed  will  be  impossible.  For  bed  clothes  a  woollen 
blanket  should  always  be  carried,  and  if  convenient  a  large  bag 
of  thick  Canton  flannel  is  a  most  excellent  acquisition. 

Bags  of  this  sort  are  in  common  use  among  amateur  trappers, 
hunters  and  camping  parties,  and  are  very  warm  and  comfort- 
able. They  should  be  nearly  seven  feet  in  length  and  of  a 
*" loose,  easy  fit."  With  one  of  these  contrivances  it  is  impos- 
sible to  "  kick  the  clothes  off"  and  the  warmth  is  continual  in- 


250  THE   CANPAIGN. 

stead  of  "  intermittent,"  and  even  on  the  bare  ground  it  is  said 
to  be  sufficient  protection.  Hammocks  are  also  in  very  general 
use,  but  we  can  confidently  recommend  the  suspended  bed 
above  described  as  decidedly  preferable. 

There  are  various  kinds  of  hammocks  in  the  market,  from  the 
light  fibred  silk,  weighing  only  a  few  ounces,  to  the  large  corded 
variety  of  several  pounds  weight  and  capable  of  holding  many 
persons.  They  are  an  established  article  of  trade,  and  as  the 
details  of  their  manufacture  would  be  of  little  practical  use  to 
the  reader,  we  will  leave  them  without  further  consideration. 
They  can  be  had  at  almost  any  sporting  emporium,  at  com- 
paratively small  cost. 

TENT    CARPETING. 

We  have  described  a  most  excellent  contrivance  for  a  bed- 
stead and  recommend  its  use  v/henever  possible  ;  but  when  the 
bed  is  desired  to  be  made  on  the  ground  the  following  method 
is  usually  employed,  by  which  the  whole  interior  of  the  tent, 
hut  or  shanty  is  carpeted  with  a  soft,  even  covering  of  green. 

Spruce  or  hemlock  boughs  are  generally  used,  and  should  be 
from  the  tips  of  the  branches  where  the  wood  is  not  too  large. 
Commence  at  the  back  part  of  the  shelter,  and  lay  doAvn  a  row 
of  the  boughs  with  the  butt  of  the  branch  towards  the  front. 
Overlap  these  with  another  nearer  row  and  continue  the  opera- 
tion, laying  the  evergreen  as  evenly  as  possible  until  the  whole 
interior  is  smoothly  covered.  The  projecting  ends  at  the  front, 
should  now  be  secured  by  the  weight  of  a  medium  sized  log,  or 
by  a  pole  pegged  down  firmly  at  intervals.  A  similar  log  should 
now  be  laid  at  the  back  portion  of  the  shelter  over  the  tips  of 
the  boughs  after  which  the  bed  is  complete,  and  will  be  found 
easy  and  comfortable  in  proportion  to  the  care  and  skill  shown 
in  its  construction.  A  blanket  should  be  thrown  over  the 
boughs  before  reclining  to  rest,  as  the  fresh  green  gives  forth 
considerable  dampness. 

If  possible  a  rubber  blanket  should  be  used  for  this  purpose. 
These  consist  of  thick  Canton  flannel,  coated  on  one  side  with 
Indian  rubber,  and  are  used  with  the  rubber  side  down.  They 
are  warm  and  comfortable,  and  a  valuable  acquisition  to  the 
trapper's  outfit.  There  is  a  thinner  and  cheaper  variety,  having 
equal  water-proof  qualities  but  which  does  not  possess  the 
warmth  of  the  former.     Either  will  be  found  useful. 

So  much  for  beds  and  bedding.     If  the  reader  will  now  turn 


TENT   CARPETING. 


25' 


his  attention  to  the  following  section,  ^'The  Trapper's  Miscel- 
lany," he  will  find  much  in  detail  of«what  has  only  been  alluded 
to  in  the  present  chapter,  besides  other  hints  of  great  value  In 
reference  to  a  trapping  campaign. 


BOOK  VIII. 

THE  TRAPPER'S  MISCELLANY. 

UR  enthusiastic  novice,  as  he  starts  out  into  the 
wilderness,  should  not  be  unmindful  of  the 
swarms  of  blood-thirsty  flies,  gnats  and  mosqui- 
toes, which  infest  the  woods  in  the  summer  and 
early  autumn,  and  are  there  lying  in  wait  for  him. 
These  often  become  a  source  of  great  annoyance 
to  the  woodsman,  and  more  often  a  source  of 
positive  bodily  suffering. 

Although  trapping  is  not  generally  carried  on 
during  this  season,  the  preparations  for  the  com- 
ing campaign,  including  the  building  of  shanties, 
transporting  of  traps,  etc.,  are  generally  made  at 
this  time,  and  unless  some  perventive  is  used, 
the  persecutions  of  the  mosquitoes  and  other 
winged  vermin,  become  almost  unbearable. 

INSECT   OINTMENTS. 

These  insects  seem  to  have  a  special  aversion  for  the  scent 
of  pennyroyal — an  herb  growing  commonly  in  sandy  localities — 
and  a  single  plant  rubbed  upon  the  face  and  hands  will  often 
greatly  check  their  attacks. 

The  oil  of  pennyroyal  is  better,  however,  and  an  ointment 
made  by  straining  one  ounce  of  the  oil  into  two  or  three  ounces 
of  pure  melted  lard,  or  mutton  tallow,  forms  an  excellent  anti- 
dote. This  may  be  carried  in  a  little  box  or  bottle,  in  the 
pocket,  and  applied  as  occasion  requires.  Plain  mutton  tallow 
is  also  a  most  excellent  ointment  for  general  use,  and  in  the  case 
of  bruises  or  slight  wounds,  will  give  great  relief. 

Another  preparation  in  very  common  use  amongst  hunters  and 
woodsmen,  although  not  quite  as  agreeable  in  odor,  consists  of 
a  mixture  of  common  tar  and  sweet  oil,  in  equal  parts.  By 
some  this  liniment  is  considered  superior  to  the  other,  inasmuch 
as  it  also  prevents  tanning,  and  is  beneficial  to  the  complexion. 

2:5 


256  THE   trapper's    MISCELLANY. 

During  the  night  time,  the  tent  or  shanty  often  becomes 
swarmed  with  the  winged  pests,  and  their  nocturnal  assaults  are 
proverbial  for  their  pertinacity  and  severity.  Their  thirst  for  blood 
overcomes  every  other  instinct,  and  pennyroyal  often  ceases  to 
have  any  effect.  Our  Adirondack  guide,  in  narrating  his  expe- 
rience with  these  insect  vampires,  even  says  that  on  a  cer- 
tain night,  becoming  exasperated  at  their  indomitable  persever- 
ance, and,  getting  tired  of  the  monotonous  occupation  of  spread- 
ing ointment,  he  arose,  lit  his  candle,  and  drove  the  creatures 
out  of  the  tent.  He  then  buttoned  up  the  opening,  and  retired 
to  rest.  A  storm  came  up  in  the  night,  and  so  completely  had 
his  canvas  been  riddled  by  the  bills  of  the  mosquitoes,  that  the 
rain  poured  through  his  tent  as  through  a  sieve. 

We  have  heard  of  the  man  who,  when  pursued  by  hungry 
mosquitoes,  took  refuge  beneath  a  large  chaldron,  and,  by  the 
aid  of  a  stone,  clinched  the  blood-thirsty  bills  as  they  protru- 
ded in  quest  of  his  hfe-blood,  until,  by  the  united  efforts  of  the 
winged  captives,  the  chaldron  was  lifted  and  wafted  out  of  sight, 
as  if  it  were  a  feather. 

One  story  is  just  as  true  as  the  other,  and  a  summer  in  the 
Adirondack  woods  will  tend  to  strengthen,  rather  than  diminish, 
the  behef  in  either. 

The  smoke  of  smouldering  birch  bark  will  effectually  drive 
away  the  mosquitoes  from  the  tents  at  night.  This  method  is 
commonly  known  as  "  the  smudge,"'  and  is  more  fully  described  in 
another  part  of  this  work. 

The  smell  of  the  smoke  is  often  unpleasant  at  first,  but  it  is 
always  preferable  to  the  insect  bites. 

Mosquitoes  are  not  the  only  vampires  which  infest  our  wooded 
lands.  The  "punkeys"  and  "  midgets  "  can  outstrip  t^.iemfor 
voracity,  and  the  painful  character  of  the  wound  which  they  in- 
flict. The  "punkey,"  or  "black-fly,"  as  it  is  called,  is  a  small, 
black  gnat,  about  the  size  of  a  garden  ant,  and  the  bite  of  the 
insect  often  results  very  seriously.  The  midget  is  a  minute  lit- 
tle creature,  and  is  the  most  everlastingly  sticky  and  exasperat- 
ing pest  in  the  catalogue  of  human  torments.  They 
fly  in  swarms  of  thousands,  and  go  for  tlieir  victim  "  en  masse" 
and  the  face,  hands  and  neck  are  soon  covered  as  if  with  "  hay 
seed."  They  stick  where  they  first  light,  and  commence  0])era- 
tions  immediately.  All  endeavors  to  shake  them  off  are  fruit- 
less, and  their  combined  attacks  are  soon  most  painfully  reahzed. 
Their  bites  produce  great  redness  and  swelling,  and  the  itching 
is  most  intolerable.     Happily  for  the  v/oodsman,  the  "smudge  " 


INSECT   OINTMENTS. 


257 


and  pennyroyal  ointment  are  effectual  preventives  against 
the  attacks  of  both  midgets  and  black  flies,  as  well  as  mosqui- 
toes :  and  no  one  who  values  his  life  or  good  looks  should  ven- 
ture on  a  woodland  excursion  in  the  summer  months  without  a 
supply  of  this  latter  commodity.  In  conclusion,  we  would  re- 
mark that,  to  the  mosquito  the  blood  of  the  intemperate  seems 
to  have  a  special  attraction,  and  any  one  who  wishes  to  enjoy 
comparative  freedom  from  the  attacks  of  these  pests,  should 
abstain  from  the  use  of  alcoholic  stimulants.  It  is  a  too  preva- 
lent idea  among  trappers  that  whiskey  and  rum  are  necessary 
adjuncts  to  a  trapping  campaign,  and  many  a  trapper  would 
about  as  soon  think  of  leaving  his  traps  at  home  as  his  whisky 
bottle.  This  is  all  a  mistake.  Any  one  who  has  not  sufficient 
strength  of  constitution  to  withstand  the  hardships  and  expo- 
sures of  a  trapping  life,  without  the  especial  aid  of  stimulants, 
should  stay  at  home.  We  are  now  alluding  to  the  habitual  use 
of  such  stimulants.  It  is  always  well  to  be  provided  with  a  flask 
of  wliisky  or  brandy,  in  case  of  illness,  but  it  should  only  be  re- 
sorted to  in  such  an  event.  For  a  mere  chill,  we  recommend 
the  use  of  red  pepper  tea.  A  simple  swallow  of  this  drink, 
(made  simply  by  soaking  a  red  pepper  in  a  cup  of  hot  water) 
will  restore  warmth  much  quicker  than  three  times  the  amount 
of  any  alcoholic  stimulant.  It  is 
not  our  purpose  to  extend  into  a 
lengthened  temperance  lecture,  but 
only  to  discourage  the  wide-spread 
idea  that  stimulants ^lxq  necessities 
in  the  life  of  the  trapper.  Midg- 
ets, mu^>  qui  toes  and  punkeys  de- 
light over  a  victim  with  alcohol  in 
his  vein>,  and  while  to  a  healthy 
subject  the  bites  are  of  only  brief 
annoyance,  to  the  intemperate  they 
often  result  in  painful,  obstinate 
sores. 

In  addition  to  the  various  oint- 
ments used,  it  is  well  to  be  pro- 
vided with  a  head-net,  such  as  we 
illustrate.  Nets  of  this  kind  are 
specially  made  for  sportsmen, 
and  consist  of  a  spiral  wire 
frimework,  covered  with  mosquito  netting,  and  of  such  a  size  an 
to  slip  easily  on  the  head. 


z^S 


THE   TRAPPER  S   MISCELLANY. 


They  are  easily  made,  as  our  engraving  would  indicate. 
A  netting  attachment  for  the  hat  is  also  an  acquisition,  espe- 
cially in  open  woods,  free  from  overhanging  branches  or  dense 
thickets.  Such  a  netting  may  be  secured  to  the  edge  of  the  hat 
brim,  and  gathered  with  an  elastic  at  the  lower  edge.  This 
elastic  will  close  snugly  around  the  neck  when  in  use,  and  at 
other  times  may  be  drawn  above  the  brim  and  allowed  to  rest 
on  top  of  the  crown. 

The  portable  hat  brim,  which  we  illustrate,  is  an  article  of  trade 
in  common  use  among  sportsmen,  and  particularly  the 
angler.  Our  engraving  (a)  shows  the  article  separate.  It  is 
made  of  cloth,  and  is  kept  in  its  circular  shape  by  a  steel 
spring  band    at  the    circumference,  between  the  two  sides.     It 

may  be  attached  to  any  hat, 
and  will  act  as  a  most  effec- 
tual shelter  to  the  rays  of 
a  hot  sun. 

The  netting  above  allu- 
ded to  may  be  attached  to 
such  a  brim,  and  applied  to 
the  edge  of  the  hat  when 
desired.  This  is  shown  at 
(d),  which  also  indicates 
the  manner  of  adjustment 
of  the  brim.  Such  a  brim 
"will  often  do  good  service, 
and  may  be  obtained  at  al- 
most any  sporting  emporium 
at  trifling  cost.  It  is  porta- 
ble in  every  sense  of  the  word,  being  easily  bent  and  packed 
away  in  the  pocket. 


"  DUG  OUT,"  OR   LOG   CANOE. 


259 


BOAT   BUILDING. 

Where  trapping  is  carried  on  along 
the  banks  of  the  lakes  aid  rivers,  a  boat 
oi  some  kind  becomes  almost  a  positive 
necessity. 

The  following  examples  represent 
those  in  most  general  use.  Perhaps 
the  most  common  form  of  the  "rough 
and  ready "  order  of  boats,  is  that 
called  the — 

"DUG-OUT,"   OR  LOG  CANOE. 

It's  general  appearance  is  well  indica-t^r^ 
ted    by   the  accompanying    illustration,  fjj 
With  the  proper  tools,  one  of  these  ca- 
noes is    easily  made.      A  sharp  axe,  an  '  ^^i^^affll|||N||||{JBff/^^ 
adze,   a  shaving  knife,  a  round   edged 
adze,  and  a  small  auger,  are  principally  * 
necessary ;  and  a  cross-cut  saw,  broad- 
axe,  sledge,  and  large  sized  chisel,  will 
also  be  found  useful. 

In  any   case   the  log  should   not  be 
much    less  than  two  feet  in  diameter, 
perfectly  sound,  and  free  from  knots.  If 
this  precaution  is  observed,  the   result 
will  be  all  the  more  satisfactory,  and  the       -Mj_ 
canoe  can  be  cut  so  tliin,  as  to  render  it     3*j&Bllll|l|B>?" 
a  light  burden  ;    being  easily  carried  on      "^^■||1B^^^^^ 
the  shoulders. 

A  pine  log  is  generally  chosen  for 
a  dugout,  on  account  of  the  lightness 
of  the  wood,  and  the  ease  with  which 
it  can  1  :e  worked.  Butternut,  cotton- 
wood  and  white  wood,  are  also  excellent,  ^ 
and  indeed  almost  any  sound  log  of  y)f| 
large  size  will  answer  the  purpose.  ^  *  '  

For   a  dug-out  of  good   size,  the  log      *     ^^^HIE^ 
should  be  ten  or  more  feet  in   length. 
The  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  cut  a  ^JIP^C?''^^ 

flat  surface  on  one  side  of  the  log,  from  " ""  "^    ' 

€nd  to  end.     This  indicates  the  bottom  *  ^'  '  '^.j-^ 

of   the  canoe.     On  the  upper  side  the  wood   should  be    hewn 
away,  in  the  curve  shown  on  the  upper  outline  of  our  illustration. 


26o  BOAT-BUILDING. 

It  is  well  to  divide  the  log  by  notches  into  three  equal 
lengths.  In  the  centre  division,  the  wood  may  be  cut  down 
to  a  straight  line  to  a  depth  of  about  eight  inches  from  the 
upper  surface.  The  gradual  curve  to  the  bow  and  stern  of 
the  canoe  should  start  from  each  end  of  this  flat  cut,  and 
extend  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  log,  the  guiding  line  being 
made  on  the  sides  of  the  log  by  a  piece  of  chalk.  The  adze 
will  come  into  good  use  in  trimming  off  the  wood  on  these 
curves.  AVhen  this  upper  outhne  is  accomplished,  the  log  may 
be  turned  bottom  side  up,  and  the  sides  of  the  extremities 
rounded  off.  This  may  be  done  with  an  axe  and  adze,  and 
when  performed,  the  bottom  curves  should  be  made  by  chopping 
away  the  wood  in  the  curves  shown  in  the  lower  outline  of 
our  illustration.  This  curve  should  also  be  marked  out  with 
chalk,  and  should  commence  a  little  nearer  the  end  of  the  log 
than  the  curve  on  the  upper  side.  Shave  off  the  wood  to  a 
blunt  edge  on  this  curve,  at  both  bow  and  stern.  The  rough 
form  of  the  canoe  is  now  obtained,  and  by  the  aid  of  the  draw- 
knife,  or  shaving-knife,  it  can  be  neatly  and  smoothly  finished. 

It  is  then  ready  to  be  "dug-out."  The  tools  most  useful 
for  this  purpose  are  the  adze  and  axe,  and  sometimes  the  sledge 
and  chisel.  The  digging  out  is  of  course  the  most  tedious 
part ;  but  with  sharp  tools  it  is  a  comparatively  easy  matter. 
When  the  great  bulk  of  the  wood  is  taken  out,  the  interior 
should  be  finshed  with  a  howel  or  round  adze ;  and  the  sides 
may  be  worked  to  one  inch  and  a  half  in  thickness  if  desired. 
The  writer  once  saw  one  of  these  canoes  of  most  exquisite 
workmanship,  being  only  one  inch  in  thickness,  and  so  light  as 
to  be  easily  lifted  with  one  hand.  Of  course  such  perfection  as 
this  is  fiot  necessary  for  ordinary  purposes  ;  although  where  the 
canoe  is  expected  to  be  carried  any  great  distance,  it  is  well 
to  thin  it  as  much  as  possible.  A  gimlet  or  small  auger  may 
be  used  to  gauge  the  thickness  of  the  canoe,  using  it  in  the 
following  manner:  Supposing  the  required  thickness  of  the 
wood  is  two  inches,  proceed  to  bore  the  hole  from  the  inside  of 
the  canoe,  and  continue  until  the  point  of  the  gimlet  or  auger 
barely  makes  its  appearance  on  the  outside.  Draw  out  the 
tool,  and  if  the  thickness  measures  more  than  is  required, 
insert  into  the  hole  a  slender  piece  of  wood  exactly  two  inches 
in  length ;  push  it  in  as  far  as  it  will  go,  and  you  may  safely 
work  until  you  reach  the  end  of  it.  By  this  method  the  thick- 
ness may  be  gauged  in  different  parts  of  the  boat  sufficiently 
to  acquire  a  fair  average  thickness,  and  there  is  no  danger  of 


THE   INDIAN   OR   BIRCH-BARK   CANOE.  26 1 

cutting  through.  The  gimlet  should  be  allowed  to  extend  out- 
side of  the  canoe  only  sufficiently  to  be  detected,  and  the  holes 
thus  made  will  seldom  give  any  trouble  as  leaks.  If,  however, 
this  should  be  the  case,  a  little  putty  or  pitch  will  remedy  the 
difficulty. 

The  "dug-out"  maybe  constructed  of  any  size,  and  of  any 
desired  shape,  but  the  above  is  the  usual  type. 

When  leaks  or  cracks  occur,  they  may  be  caulked  with  hemp, 
and  smeared  with  pitch,  which  will  render  them  thoroughly  water- 
proof. 

For  lightness  and  portabihty  there  is  no  boat  more  desirable 
or  more  unique  than — 

THE    INDIAN    OR  BIRCH-BARK   CANOE. 

Where  the  white  birch  grows  in  perfection,  and  the  trees  at- 
tain a  large  size,  the  chief  material  of  the  birch  bark  canoe  is  at 
hand;  and  although  we  ordinary  mortals  could  not  be  expected 
to  attain  to  that  perfection  of  skill  which  the  Indians  exhibit  in 
the  manufacture  of  these  canoes,  we  nevertheless  can  succeed 
sufficiently  well  to  answer  all  practical  purposes.  The  Indian 
canoes  are  often  perfect  marvels  of  skill  and  combined  strength 
and  lightness.  These  half-civilized  beings  seem  to  take  as  nat- 
urally to  the  making  of  these  commodities,  as  if  it  were  almost 
an  hereditary  habit  with  them ;  and  few  men,  even  with  the  most 
exhaustive  practice,  can  compete  with  the  Indian  in  the  combined 
result  of  strength,  lightness,  durability,  external  beauty,  and 
nicety  of  work,  which  are  the  united  characteristics  of  the 
typical  bark  canoe. 

The  average  length  of  the  "Bark,"  as  used  by  trappers,  is 
about  twelve  feet,  but  they  may  be  constructed  of  any  desired 
dimensions,  to  the  length  of  forty  feet.  A  canoe  of  this  size 
will  carry  fifteen  or  twenty  persons,  and  may  be  transported 
with  ease  upon  the  shoulders  of  two  strong  men.  The  smaller 
size,  above  mentioned,  is  capable  of  carrying  two  persons,  and  is 
a  light  load  for  a  single  man. 

In  constructing  the  bark  canoe  the  first  requisite  is  the  gun- 
wale, or  upper  framework.  This  should  consist  of  four  strips 
of  cedar,  ash,  or  other  light,  strong  wood ;  two  for  each  side  of 
the  boat.  For  an  ordinary  sized  canoe,  their  length  should  be 
about  twelve  feet,  width  one  inch,  and  thickness  one-quarter  of 
an  inch.  They  should  be  tied  together  in  pairs  at  the  ends,  and 
the  two  pairs  then  joined  at  the  same  place.  The  object  of 
18 


262  BOAT-BUILDING. 

these  pieces  is  to  give  strength  and  form  to  the  canoe,  and  to 
offer  a  firm  security  for  the  edges  of  the  bark,  which  are  secured 
between  them.  The  gunwale  being  prepared,  we  are  now  ready 
for  the  birch  bark.  The  bottom  of  a  well  made  canoe  should  be 
in  one  large  piece,  as  our  illustration  indicates,  if  possible.  Select 
some  large  tree  with  the  trunk  free  from  knots  or  excrescences. 
Mark  off  as  great  a  length  as  possible,  and  chop  a  straight  cut 
in  the  bark  through  the  v/hole  length  of  the  piece,  after  which 
it  should  be  carefully  peeled  from  the  wood.  It  will  sometimes 
happen,  where  large  birches  exist  in  perfection,  that  a  single 
piece  may  be  found  of  sufficient  size  for  a  whole  canoe,  but  this 
is  rather  exceptional,  and  the  bottom  is  generally  pieced  out,  as 
seen  in  our  drawing.  This  piecing  may  be  accomplished  with 
an  awl  and  Indian  twine,  or  by  the  aid  of  a  large  needle  threaded 
with  the  same,  sewing  with  an  over-and-over  stitch  around  the 
edge  of  each  piece.  Use  as  large  pieces  as  are  attainable,  and 
continue  to  sew  them  on  until  the  area  of  bark  measures  about 
four  and  a  half  feet  in  width  by  twelve  feet  in  length,  the  dark 
colored  sides  of  the  bark  all  facing  the  same  way.  Next 
select  a  flat  piece  of  ground,  and  mark  off  a  distance  of  ten 
feet,  or  two  feet  less  than  the  length  of  tlie  gunwales.  At  each 
end  of  the  space  two  tall  stakes  should  be  driven  into  the 
ground  about  three  inches  apart.  Now  turn  the  bark  on  the 
ground  with  its  white  side  uppermost,  and  fold  it  loosely  and 
evenly  through  the  long  centre.  In  this  folded  condition  it 
should  now  be  lifted  by  the  upper  edge  and  set  between  the 
stakes.  There  will  then  be  about  a  foot  of  projecting  bark  be- 
yond each  pair  of  stakes.  These  ends  should  now  be  covered 
by  folding  another  piece  of  bark  over  them,  sewing  the  edges 
firmly  to  the  sides  of  the  rude  form  of.  the  canoe,  which  now 
presents  itself.  When  this  is  done,  each  end  should  be  sup- 
ported on  a  log  or  stone ;  this  will  cause  the  bottom  line  to  sink 
downwards  at  about  the  proper  curve.  We  are  now  ready  for 
the  gunwale.  Lay  it  in  the  proper  position,  fitting  the  edges  of 
the  bark  between  the  two  strips  on  each  side,  and  sewing 
around  the  whole  with  a  winding  stitch,  exactly  after  the  manner 
of  the  edge  of  an  ordinary  palm-leaf  fan.  The  inside  of  the 
canoe  should  now  be  lined  with  long  strips  of  cedar  running 
through  the  entire  length  of  the  boat  if  possible,  but  if  not, 
should  be  so  cut  as  to  neatly  overlap  at  the  ends.  These  pieces 
should  be  an  inch  or  two  in  width,  and  from  a  quarter  to  half 
an  inch-in  thickness.  The  ribs  are  then  to  be  put  in.  These 
are  generally  made  from  ash,  one  or  two  inches  in  width,  and 


THE    INDIAN    OR    BIRCH-BARK   CANOE. 


263 


a   quarter  of  an   inch  in    thickness. 
Any  light  flexible  wood   will  answer 
the  purpose,  and  even  barrel  hoops 
when   attainable   will    do   very  well. 
These  ribs  should  be  bent  to  fit  the 
interior  of  the  canoe  crosswise,  either 
close  together,  or  with  equal  distances 
between   them  and  the  ends  should 
then   be  firmly  secured  beneath  the 
gunwales  by  a  continuous  loop-stitch 
through    the   bark.     For  a  canoe    of 
twelve  feet  in  length,  the  width  should 
be  about  two  feet,  and  in  order  to  keep 
the  gunwales  firm,  two  or  more  cross- 
pieces  should  be  inserted,  and  lashed  ' 
firmly  at  their  ends  as  our  illustration  55:5^ 
shows.    The  centre  third  of  the  length  ,Y' 
of  the  canoe  should  be  parallel  at  the  '-:^^ 
sides,  and  if  two  braces,  two  feet  in  ^ 
length  are  placed  at  each  end  of  this  C5v^ 
third,  the  shape  will  be  about  perfect.  v-^\^ 
We  now  have  a  bark  canoe  of  consid-  ' 
erable    strength   and    durabiHty,  and  .^ 
it  only  awaits  to  be  made  water-proof  ^^ 
for  final  use.     In  order  to  accomplish  v^ 
this   all  the  seams  outside,   and  the      "''* 
entire  interior  of  the  canoe  should,  be 
smeared  with  pitch,  after   which   its  • 
floating  qualities  may  be  tested  with 
confidence.     Should  any  leaks  occur 
their  where-abouts  are  easily  detected, 
and  an  additional  application  of  pitch 
will   remedy  the  difficulty.     The   In- 
dians in  sewing  their  bark  canoes  use 
tamarack   roots,  fibrous    plants,  and 
grasses,  in   lieu   of   thread,  and  even 
with  these    inferior    materials    often 
attain  to  such  perfection  in  compact 
sewing,  as  to  render  the  use  of  pitch 
unnecessary  for  water-proof  purposes. 
Such  skill  is  rarely  attained  by  the 
white  man,  and  the  art   of  making  a 

water-proof  canoe,  even  out  of  a  single   piece   of  bark,  is 
no  means  an  easy  task  without  the  aid  of  tar  or  pitch. 


264  THE   trapper's    MISCELLANY. 

For  the  trapper  we  strongly  recommend  the  birch  "bark."  With 
the  above  directions  we  are  sure  no  one  could  go  actray,  and  we 
are  equally  sure  that  a  canoe  made  as  we  describe,  would  pre- 
sent advantages  of  lightness  and  portability  which  no  other  style 
of  boat  v/ould  possess.  For  temporary  purposes,  canoes  can  be 
made  from  basswood,  hemlock,  or  spruce  bark ;  but  they  are  at 
best,  very  rude  and  clumsy  in  comparison  with  the  birch  bark. 
They  are  generally  made  after  the  principles  of  the  above  de- 
scribed ;  either  sewing  or  nailing  the  edges  of  the  bark  together, 
and  smearing  every  joint  and  seam  profusely  with  pitch,  and  add- 
ing gunwales,  lining,  and  ribs. 

A   LIGHT   HOME-MADE   BOAT. 

The  follov/ing  gives  an  easy  method  of  making  a  light  and 
serviceable  bateau,  v/hich  any  boy,  with  moderate  ingenuity  or 
skill,  could  easily  construct : — 

Select  two  boards,  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, eighteen  or  twenty  inches  in  width,  and  twelve  feet  in 
length,  which  we  will  consider  the  required  length  of  the  boat. 
These  boards  should  be  well  seasoned,  and  free  from  knots,  and 
at  least  one  of  the  sides  should  be  straight. 

Next,  vv^ith  the  aid  of  a  draw-shave,  proceed  to  shape  the 
ends  of  one  of  the  boards,  as  seen  on  our  diagram,  (e)  repre- 
senting the  forward,  (^)  the  stern.  The  curve  of  the  bow  should 
commence  at  about  four  feet  from  the  end,  and  take  a  rounded 
slope  upward,  leaving  about  ten  inches  of  width  at  the  end  of 
the  board  (e).  The  stern  should  be  cut  at  the  angle  shown  at 
(g)y  commencing  at  about  two  and  a  half  feet  from  the  extrem- 
ity of  the  board  and  continuing  upward  to  about  ten  inches  from 
the  upper  edge.  The  board  thus  shaped  should  now  be  laid 
evenly  on  the  other,  and  the  outline  of  the  cut  portions  care- 
fully scratched  upon  it,  after  which  the  second  board  should  be 
cut  in  a  similar  manner  as  the  first,  so  as  to  form  an  exact  du- 
plicate . 

This  being  accomplished,  the  two  should  be  laid  evenly,  one 
over  the  other,  and  the  exact  center  of  their  long  edges  ascer- 
tained. Marking  off  about  five  inches  on  each  side  of  this  cen- 
tre on  both  boards. 

Next  procure  another  board  about  ten  inches  in  width,  three 
feet  in  length,  and  perfectly  squared  at  the  ends.  Nail  each  end , 
of  this  piece  securely  and  squarely  in  the  space  marked  on  each 
of  the  long  boards.     Then   turn  the  pieces  carefully  over  and 


A    LIGHT    HOME    MADE    BOAT. 


265 


nail   another  board  across  the  bottom,  directly   opposite 
first.     We    will  now  leave    them  and  give    our   at- 
tention   to  the  bow    piece,   which   is    the    next    re-  ^iij 

quisite.  This  is  shown  at  {a\  and  consists  of  a  solid 
piece  of  oak,  or  other  hard  wood,  well  seasoned,  and 
hewn  out  in  the  arrow  shape,  indicated  in  our  illus- 
tration. It  should  first  be  cut  three-cornered,  the 
inside  face  being  about  eight  inches,  and  the  other 
two  ten  inches.  Its  length  should  be  about  eleven 
inches,  and  its  under  side  should  be  sloped  off  on  a 
line  with  the  under  curve  of  the  bows.  At  about  //'  ,j'f 
five  inches  from  the  inner  face,  and  on  each  side,  a 
piece  should  be  sawn  out,  one  inch  in  thickness,  thus 
leaving  on  each  side  a  notch  which  will  exactly  receive 
the  side-boards  of  the  boat,  as  seen  at  {a). 

The  piece  being  thus  ready,  the  bow  ends  of  the 
boards  should  be  drawn  together,  fitted  in  the  notches 
and  securely  spiked  with  large  nails.  A  bow  piece 
of  this  kind  adds  greatly  to  the  strength  of  a  boat, 
and  will  stand  much  rough  usage.  The  board  for 
the  stern  should  next  be  prepared.  This  should  be 
ten  inches  in  width  and  two  feet  in  length,  and  should 
be  securely  nailed  between  the  ends  of  the  boards' 
at  the  stern,  as  shown  at  {g\  being  afterwards  over-' 
lapped  on  the  top  by  a  board  of  similar  size,  as  our 
illustration  shows,  at  (c).  The  bottom  of  the  boat  is 
now  easily  made  by  naihng  boards  crosswise,  sawing  j  ' 
off  the  projecting  ends  close  to  the  curve  of  the:  11' 
side-boards.  After  the  pieces  are  all  nailed  in  place, 
the  seams  and  crevices  should  be  caulked  with  hemp, 
using  a  blunt  chisel,  or  hard  wooden  wedge,  and  a 
mallet.  The  seats  should  now  be  put  in,  as  these  are  j 
not  only  a  matter  of  comfort,  but  of  necessity,  acting 
as  braces  to  the  sides  of  the  boat.  They  should  be 
two  in  number,  one  being  placed  three  feet  from  the 
stern  and  the  other  one  foot  beyond  the  brace  board 
originally  nailed  across  the  top  of  the  boat.  The 
seats  should  be  cut  at  the  ends  in  a  curve  corres- 
ponding to  the  part  of  the  boat  in  which  they  are 
placed,  and  should  be  situated  about  a  foot  from  the 
bottom  of  the  boat,  their  ends  resting  on  short  boards 
beneath   them  against  the  sides  of  the  boat.     These  "^■ 

are  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  (h  h)  in  the  diagram.     When 


'  L 


2^6 


THE   TRAPPER'S    MISCELLANY. 


thus  resting  they  should  be  securely  fastened  in  place  by  strong 
screws,  driven  through  the  sides  of 
the  boat  into  their  ends  {ff\  allow- 
ing some  one  to  sit  on  the  seat  mean- 
while to  keep  it  in  place.  Small  cleats 
should  now  be  tacked  to  the  bottom 
of  the  boat,  beneath  the  seat  and  un- 
derneath the  seat  itself,  in  order  to 
keep  the  props  in  place  ;  after  which 
the  original  brace  board  across  the 
top  of  the  boat  may  be  knocked  off 
and  the  bateau  is  complete  and  ready 
for  service.  A  boat  thus  made  is 
quite  comely  in  shape,  and  may  be 
painted  to  suit  the  fancy.  Should  a 
rudder  be  required,  the  broad  board  at 
the  stern  offers  a  good  place  of  attach- 
ment, and  oar-locks  may  be  adjusted 
at  the  proper  places.  These  may  con- 
sist of  a  pair  of  cleats  attached  to  the 
inside  of  the  boat,  as  seen  in  the 
illustration.  In  case  it  may  be  found 
difficult  to  obtain  the  large  single 
boards  for  the  sides  of  the  boat, 
two  or  more  narrow  ones  will  answer 
the  purpose,  although  not  as  per- 
fectly. In  this  case  they  should  first 
be  firmly  attached  together  by  cleats, 
securely  screwed  to  the  inside.  When 
first  put  on  the  water  the  boat  will 
probably  leak  in  places,  but  if  left  to 
soak  for  a  few  hours  the  wood  will 
generally  swell  sufficiently  to  com- 
pletely close  the  crevices.  If,  how- 
ever, the  leak  should  continue,  that 
particular  part  of  the  boat  should  be 
re-caulked  and  smeared  with  pitch. 
This  latter  substance  is  of  great 
value  to  the  trapper,  not  only  in  boat 
building  but  in  the  construction  of 
his  shanties  and  in  other  various 
^^  ways.     It  will  most   effectually   stop 

almost  any  leak  in  a  canoe  or  boat,  and  of  course  should  always 

be  applied  hot. 


SNOW-SHOES.  267 

THE  SCOW. 

The  bateau  we  have  above  described  is  built  so  as  to  allow 
for  considerable  speed  in  the  water,  either  in  rowing  or  scull- 
ing ;  but  where  this  speed  is  not  especially  desired  the  pointed 
bows  may  be  dispensed  with,  and  the  sides  of  the  boat  made 
perfectly  straight.  In  this  case  the  bottom  takes  equal  slopes 
at  the  ends,  and  both  bow  and  stern  are  of  the  same  width,  and 
an  ordinary  flat-bottomed  boat  with  parallel  sides  is  the  result. 
In  many  cases  a  scow  of  this  kind  answers  every  purpose,  and 
is  certainly  much  more  easily  made. 

We  have  thus  described  a  few  of  the  most  common  instances 
of  boats  used  by  trappers,  and  with  our  full  description  and  il- 
lustrations no  one  can  go  astray.  A  boat  of  some  kind  is  almost 
an  indispensable  requisite  to  the  trapper,  and  any  one  of  the 
foregoing  will  be  found  sufficient  for  all  ordinary  purposes. 

A  paddle  may  be  used,  and  in  shallow  or  muddy  water  a 
pusher  or  mud-stick  will  be  found  useful.  This  should  consist 
of  a  pole  seven  or  eight  feet  in  length,  supplied  at  the  ends  with 
an  attachment  of  the  shape  of  the  letter  U.  This  may  be  con- 
structed in  two  pieces,  firmly  screwed  to  opposite  sides  of  the 
end  of  the  pole,  and  so  formed  as  to  present  a  curved  crotch. 
Such  a  stick  will  be  found  very  useful  for  pushing  through 
weeds  and  muddy  places.  A  simple  pole  trimmed  so  as  to  leave 
a  crotch  at  the  end  will  also  answer  the  purpose  very  well. 

SNOW-SHOES. 

These  commodities  are  almost  indispensable  to  the  trapper 
where  he  pursues  his  vocation  in  the  winter  time,  during  the" 
prevalence  of  deep  snows.  When  properly  made  they  permit 
the  wearer  to  walk  over  the  surface  of  the  snow  with  perfect 
ease ;  where,  without  them,  travel  would  be  extremely  difficult 
if  not  impossible. 

In  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow,  and  also  in  Canada  and 
neighboring  districts,  snow-shoes  are  very  commonly  worn.  In 
the  latter  localities  the  "  snow-shoe  race  "forms  one  of  the  favor- 
ite sports  of  the  season,  and  young  and  old  alike  join  in  its 
mysteries.  Like  riding  on  the  velocipede,  walking  on  snow- 
shoes  looks  '^  easy  enough,"  but  we  notice  that  a  few  somer- 
saults are  usually  a  convincing  argument  that  the  art  is  not  as 
simple  as  it  appears.     The  first  experience  on  snow-shoes  is  apt 


268  THE   trapper's    MISCELLANY. 

to  be  at  least  undignifying,  if  not  discouraging,  and  in  order  to  get 
used  to  tiie  strange  capers  and  eccentricities  of  an  ordinarily 
well-behaved  snow  shoe,  it  requires  considerable  patience  and 
practice.  There  is  no  telling  where,  in  an  unguarded  moment, 
they  will  land  you,  and  they  seem  to  take  especial  delight  in 
stepping  on  each  other  and  turning  their  wearer  upside  down. 
The  principal  secret  of  success  (and  one  may  as  well  know  it  at 
the  start,  as  to  learn  it  at  the  expense  of  a  pint  of  snow  down 
his  back)  consists  in  taking  steps  sufficiently  long  to  bring  the 
widest  portion  of  the  stepping  shoe  beyond  that  of  the  other, 
keeping  the  feet  rather  far  apart  and  stepping  pretty  high.  By 
observing  these  precautions,  and  trusting  in  Providence,  much 
embarrassment  may  be  saved,  and  an  hour's  effort  will  thor- 
oughly tame  the  unruly  appendages,  which  at  best  do  not  per- 
mit of  much  grace  or  elegance  of  gait. 

To  the  moose  hunter  snow-shoes  are  often  an  absolute  ne- 
cessity, and  trapping  in  many  cases  would  be  impossible  with- 
out them.  They  are  thus  brought  fully  within  the  scope  of  our 
volume,  and  we  give  a  few  simple  directions  for  their  manufac- 
ture. Our  illustration  gives  the  correct  shape  of  the  shoe. 
The  framework  should  consist  of  a  strip  of  ash,  hickory  or 
some  other  elastic  wood,  bent  into  the  form  indicated  and 
wound  around  the  ends  with  twine  or  strips  of  hide.  The 
length  of  the  piece  should  be  about  six  feet,  more  or  less,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  size  of  the  individual  who  proposes  to  wear  the 
shoe.  If  the  bending  should  prove  difficult  it  may  be  rendered 
an  easy  matter  by  the  application  of  boiling  water.  Across  the 
front  part  two  strips  of  stout  leather,  or  other  tough  hide,  are 
then  fastened,  and  these  further  secured  together  by  three  or 
four  bands  on  each  side  of  the  middle,  as  our  drawing  shows. 

In  the  original  Indian  snow-shoe,  from  which  our  drawing 
was  made,  the  net  work  was  constructed  from  strips  of  moose 
hide,  which  were  interlaced  much  after  the  manner  of  an  ordi- 
nary cane-seated  chair.  Strips  of  leather,  deer  skin,  or  even 
split  cane,  above  alluded  to,  may  also  be  used,  and  the  lacing 
may  be  either  as  our  illustration  represents,  or  in  the  simpler 
rectangular  woof  seen  in  ordinary  cloth. 

In  order  to  attach  the  interlacing  to  the  bow  the  latter  should  be 
wound  with  wide  strips  of  cane,  if  it  can  be  procured,  or  otherwise 
with  strips  of  tough  skin.  The  loops  thus  formed  offer  a  con- 
tinuous security,  and  the  whole  interior,  with  the  exception  of 
the  space  at  the  front  between  the  cross  pieces,  should  be 
neatly  filled  with  the  next  work.    It  is  well  to  run  the  first  lines 


SNOW-SHOES. 


269 


across  the  shoe,  from  side  to  side,  passing  through  the  wind- 
ings of  the  bow.  Across  them,  in  the  form  of  the  letter 
X,  the  two  other  cords  should  be  in- 
terlaced, after  the  manner  shown  in 
the  cut.  This  forms  a  secure  and 
not  very  complicated  network,  and 
is  the  style  usually  adopted  by  the  In- 
dian makers. 

There  is  another  mode  of  attach- 
ing the  lace-work  to  the  bow  which  is 
also  commonly  employed,  and  con- 
sists in  a  series  of  holes  bored  at 
regular  intervals  through  the  wood. 
The  winding  is  thus  dispensed  with, 
but  the  bow  is  sometimes  weakened 
by  the  operation,  and  we  are  inclined 
to  recommend  the  former  method  in 
preference.  In  attaching  the  shoe, 
the  ball  of  the  foot  should  be  set  on 
the  second  cross  piece,  and  there  se- 
cured by  a  strip  of  hide,  which  should 
be  first  adjusted  as  seen  in  the  en- 
graving, being  afterward  tied  over  the 
foot  and  then  behind  the  ankle. 

Snow-shoes  are  made  in  other  ways, 
but  we  believe  that  the  typical  Indian 
snow-shoe  above  described  is  the 
best. 

THE  TOBOGGAN  OR  INDIAN  SLEDGE. 

For  winter  traffic  over  deep  snows 
there  is  no  better  sled  in  the  world 
than  the  Indian  toboggan.  To  the 
trapper  during  a  winter  campaign  it  is 
often  an  indispensable  convenience, 
and  without  it  the  Indian  hunters  of  the 
North  would  find  great  difficulty  in 
getting  their  furs  to  market.  All 
through  the  winter  season  the  various 
trading  posts  of  Canada  are  constantly 
visited  by  numbers  of  Indian  trappers,  many  of  whom  have 
travelled   hundreds   of   miles   on   their    snow-shoes  with  their 


270  THE    TRAPPERS    MISCELLANY. 

heavily  laden  toboggans.  Arrived  at  their  market  they  sell  or 
trade  their  stock  of  furs,  and  likewise  dispose  of  their  tobog- 
gans, reserving  only  their  snow-shoes  to  aid  them  in  their  long 
tramp  homewards. 

In  Canada  and  northward  the  toboggan  is  in  ver}^  extensive 
use,  both  for  purposes  of  traffic  and  amusement.  It  is  quite 
commonly  met  with  in  the  streets  of  various  Canadian  cities,  and 
is  especially  appreciated  by  the  youthful  population,  who  are 
fond  of  coasting  over  the  crust  of  snow.  For  this  purpose  there 
is  no  other  sled  like  it,  and  a  toboggan  of  the  size  we  shall  de- 


scribe will  easily  accommodate  two  or  three  boys,  and  will  glide 
over  a  crust  of  snow  with  great  ease  and  rapidity.  To  the  trap- 
per it  is  especially  valuable  for  all  purposes  of  transportation. 
The  flat  bottom  rests  upon  the  surface  of  the  snow,  and  the 
v/eight  being  thus  distributed  a  load  of  two  or  three  hundred 
pounds  will  often  make  but  little  impression  and  can  be  drawn 
v/ith  marvellous  ease.  Our  illustration  gives  a  very  clear  idea 
of  the  sled,  and  it  can  be  made  in  the  following  Avay:  the  first 
requisite  is  a  board  about  eight  feet  in  length  and  sixteen  or 
more  inches  in  width.  Such  a  board  may  be  procured  at  any 
saw- mill.  Oak  is  the  best  wood  for  the  purpose,  although  hick- 
ory, basswood  or  ash  will  do  excellently.  It  should  be  planed 
or  sawed  to  a  thickness  of  about  a  third  of  an  inch,  and  should 
be  free  from  knots.  If  a  single  board  of  the  required  width  is 
not  easily  found,  two  boards  may  be  used,  and  secured  side  by 
side  by  three  cleats,  one  at  each  end  and  the  other  in  the  mid- 
dle, using  wTouifrht  nails  and  clinching  them  deeply  into  the  board 
on  the  under  side.  The  single  board  is  much  to  be  preferred, 
if  it  can  be  had.  The  next  requisites  are  seven  or  eight  wooden 
cross-pieces  of  a  length  equivalent  to  the  width  of  the  board. 
Four  old  broom-sticks,  cu!^,  in  the  required  lengths,  will  answer 


THE    TOBOGGAN    OR    INDIAN    SLEDGE.  27 1 

this  purpose  perfectly,  and  if  these  are  not  at  hand  other  sticks 
of  similar  dimensions  should  be  used.  Two  side  pieces  are 
next  needed.  These  should  be  about  five  feet  in  length,  and  in 
thickness  exactly  similar  to  the  cross  pieces.  Next  procure  a 
few  pairs  of  leather  shoe-strings  or  some  strips  of  tough  calf 
skin.  With  these  in  readiness  we  may  now  commence  the  work 
of  putting  the  parts  together.  Begin  by  laying  the  cross  pieces 
at  equal  distances  along  the  board  ;  across  these  and  near  their 
ends  lay  the  two  side  pieces,  as  seen  in  the  illustration.  By  the 
aid  of  a  gimlet  or  awl,  four  holes  should  now  be  made  through 
the  board,  beneath  the  end  of  each  cross  piece,  and  also  directly 
under  the  side  piece.  It  is  well  to  mark  with  a  pencil,  the  va- 
rious points  for  the  holes,  after  which  the  sticks  can  be  removed 
and  the  work  much  more  easily  performed.  The  four  holes 
should  be  about  an  inch  apart,  or  so  disposed  as  to  mark  the 
four  corners  of  a  square  inch.  It  is  also  necessary  to  make 
other  holes  along  the  length  of  the  cross  pieces,  as  seen  in  the 
illustration.  The  line  on  these  can  also  be  marked  with  the 
pencil  across  the  board,  and  the  holes  made  afterwards.  1  hese 
should  also  be  an  inch  apart,  and  only  tw^o  in  number  at  each 
point,  one  on  each  side  of  the  stick.  When  all  the  holes  are 
made  the  board  should  be  turned  over,  in  order  to  complete 
preparations  on  the  other  side.  The  object  of  these  various 
holes  is  for  the  passage  of  the  leather  shoe-strings  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  the  cross  pieces  firmly  to  the  board.  In  order  to  pre- 
vent these  loops  from  wearing  off  on  the  under  side,  small  grooves 
should  next  be  made  connecting  the  holes  beneath,  thus  allowing 
the  leather  string  to  sink  into  the  weed,  where  it  is  securely  pro- 
tected from  injury.  A  narrow  chisel  is  the  best  tool  for  this 
purpose,  the  making  of  the  grooves  being  much  more  easily  and 
perfectly  accomplished  with  this  than  w^ith  the  jack-knife.  When 
the  under  side  is  thus  finished  the  board  may  be  turned  over  and 
the  cross  pieces  and  sides  again  arranged  in  place  as  already  de- 
scribed. Secure  the  pieces  to  the  board  by  the  leather  strings 
through  the  various  holes,  always  knotting  on  the  upper  surface, 
and  taking  care  that  the  knots  are  firmly  tied.  The  ends  of  all  the 
cross  pieces  will  require  a  double  cross  stitch  through  the  four 
holes  beneath,  in  order  to  secure  the  side  pieces  as  well.  This 
is  plainly  shown  in  the  small  diagram  {a).  The  front  end  of  each 
side  piece  underneath  should  now  be  sharpened  to  a  point,to  allow 
for  the  bend  at  the  front  of  the  toboggan.  The  cross  piece  at 
this  end  should  be  secured  to  the  under  side  of  the  board,  so 
that  as  it  bends  over  it  will  appear  on  the  upper  edge,  as  our 


272  THE   TRAPPERS    MISCELLANY. 

illustration  shows.  The  board  should  next  be  bent  with  a  grace- 
ful curve,  and  thus  held  in  position  by  a  lope  or  strip  of  leather 
at  each  extremity  of  the  end  cross  piece  and  attached  to  the 
ends  of  the  third  cross  piece,  as  seen  in  the  engraving.  If  the 
bending  is  difficult  and  there  is  danger  of  breaking  the  board,  the 
application  of  boiUng  water  will  render  it  pliable.  The  draw 
strings  should  then  be  attached  to  the  ends  of  the  second  cross 
piece,  and  our  toboggan  is  now  complete. 

It  may  now  be  laden  with  two  or  three  hundred  pounds  of 
merchandize  and  will  be  found  to  draw  over  the  surface 
of  the  snow  with  perfect  ease.  For  coasting  over  the  crust 
there  is  nothing  like  it.  Such  a  toboggan  as  we  have  described 
will  easily  accommodate  three  boys,  the  one  at  the  stern  being 
provided  with  a  sharp  stick  for  steering,  and  the  front  occupant 
holding  firmly  to  the  draw  strings.  The  toboggan  is  easily 
made,  and  will  do  good  service  either  for  traffic  or  sport. 

CURING   SKINS. 

This  department  of  the  trapper's  art  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant and  necessary,  as  affecting  pecuniary  profits.  The 
value  of  a  skin  in  the  fur  market  depends  entirely  upon  the  care 
with  which  it  is  taken  from  the  animal  and  afterward  prepared, 
and  without  a  knowledge  on  this  subject  the  young  trapper  will 
in  vain  seek  for  high  prices  for  his  furs.  Large  quantities  of 
valuable  skins  are  sent  to  our  markets  annually  by  inexperi- 
enced amateur  trappers,  and  in  many  cases  rare  and  beautiful 
furs  have  been  almost  spoiled  by  want  of  care  in  skinning  and 
curing.  The  rules  are  simple  and  easily  followed,  a  little  care 
being  all  that  is  necessary  to  insure  most  perfect  success.  In 
every  case  the  skin  should  be  removed  shortly  after  death,  or  at 
least  before  it  has  become  tainted  with  decay.  Great  pains 
should  be  taken  in  skinning.  Avoid  the  adherence  of  flesh  or 
fat  to  the  skin,  and  guard  against  cutting  through  the  hide,  as  a 
pierced  skin  is  much  injured  in  value.  The  parts  about  the 
eyes,  legs  and  ears  should  be  carefully  removed.  The  various 
methods  of  skinning  are  described  in  our  section  on  trapping, 
and  in  all  cases  the  furs  should  be  allowed  to  dry  in  a  cool, 
airy  place,  free  from  the  rays  of  the  sun  or  the  heat  of  a  fire, 
and  protected  from  rain. 

Astnngent  preparations  of  various  kinds  are  used  by  many 
trappers,  but  they  are  by  no  means  necessary.  The  most 
common  dressing  consists  of  equal  parts  of  rock  salt  and  alum, 
dissolved  in  water.     Into  this  a  sufficient  amount  of  coarse  flour 


STRETCHERS. 


273 


or  wheat  bran  is  stirred  to  give  the  mixture  the  consistency  of 
batter,  after  which  it  is  spread  thickly  over  the  skin  and  allowed 
to  dry. 

It  is  afterwards  scraped  off,  and  in  some  cases  a  second  ap- 
plication is  made.  This  preparation  is  much  used  in  dressing 
beaver,  otter,  mink  and  muskrat  skins,  but  as  many  of  our  most 
successful  and  experienced  trappers  do  without  it,  we  fail  to  see 
the  advantage  of  using  it,  as  it  is  only  an  extra  trouble.  The 
simplest  and  surest  v/ay  is  to  stretch  the  skin  and  to  submit  it 
to  a  gradual  process  of  natural  drying  Avithout  any  artificial  heat 
or  application  of  astringents  to  hasten  the  result. 

A  very  common  mode  of  stretching  skins  consists  in  tacking 
them  to  a  board,  with  the  fur  inwards,  and  allowing  them  to  dry 
as  already  described. 

This  method  does  very  well  for  small  skins,  but  for  general 
purposes  the  "  stretchers  "  are  the  only  means  by  which  a  pelt 
may  be  properly  cured  and  prepared. 

STRETCHERS. 

The  board  stretcher  is  the  simplest  form  and  is  in  most  com- 
mon use  among  trappers  for  the  smaller  animals.  These  stretch- 
ers are  of  two  kinds,  the  plain  and  the  wedged.  The  plain 
stretcher  consists  of  a  piece  of  board  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  about  eighteen  inches  long  and  six  inches  in  width. 


One  end  of  this  board  is  rounded  off,  as  seen  in  our  illustration, 
and  the  sides  should  also  be  whittled  and  smoothed  to  a  blunt 
edge. 

The  board  stretchers  are  used  only  for  those  skins  which 
are  taken  off  whole,  that  is,  as  described  in  the  chapter  on  the 
otter.  The  skin  should  be  drawn  tightly  over  the  blunt  end  of 
the  board,  and  its  edges  either  caught  in  notches  cut  in  the 
edjres   of  the  square   end  or   secured  by  a  few  tacks.     This 


2  74  THE    trapper's    MISCELLANY. 

stretcher  is  particularly  adapted  to  the  skins  of  muskrats,  minks 
and  animals  of  a  like  size.  They  are  known  in  New  England 
as  "  shingle  stretchers,"  and  are  much  to  be  recommended  on 
account  of  their  lightness  and  the  ease  with  which  they  can  be 
made  and  carried. 

The  wedge  stretcher  is  rather  more  elaborate  than  the  fore- 
going, and  is  said  to  be  an  improvement. 

The  first  requisite  is  a  board  of  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  m 


thickness,  tw^o  feet  or  more  in  length,  and  three  and  a  half  inches 
at  one  end  tapering  to  the  width  of  two  inches  at  the  other. 
This  end  should  now  be  rounded,  and  the  edges  of  the  board 
whittled  off  to  a  blunt  edge,  as  already  described  in  the  fore- 
going, commencing  near  the  centre  of  the  board,  and  thinning  to 
the  edge,  and  finishing  with  the  notches  at  the  square  end. 
Now,  by  the  aid  of  a  rip-saw,  sever  the  board  through  the  mid- 
dle lengthwise. 

The  wedge,  is  the  next  thing  to  be  constructed,  and  should 
consist  of  a  piece  of  wood  the  thickness  of  the  centre  of  the 
board  and  of  the  same  length,  tapering  from  an  inch  in  width  at 
one  end  to  half  an  inch  at  the  other. 

To  use  the  stretcher  the  two  boards  are  inserted  into  the  skin, 
(the  latter  with  the  fur  side  inward).  The  wedge  is  then  inserted 
between  the  large  ends  of  the  boards  and  driven  in  sufficiently 
to  stretch  the  pelt  to  its  full  capacity,  securing  it  in  the  notches 
by  slight  cuts  in  the  hide,  or  by  a  tack  or  two  at  the  edge.  It 
should  then  he  hung  in  a  cool,  airy  place,  and  the  pelt  left  to 
" season." 

The  bow  stretcher  is  another  contrivance  very  commonly 
used  for  small  skins  like  the  foregoing.  When  this  is  used  the  pelt 
should  be  skinned  as  described'on  page  185,  the  initial  cut  com- 
mencing at  the  lower  jaw  and  extending  down  between  the  fore 
legs,  all  the  feet  being  previously  cut  off.  The  bow  may 
consist  of  a  switch  of  any  elastic  Avood,  such  as  hickory,  iron 
wood,  elm  or  birch.  It  should  be  about  three  or  more  feet  in 
length,  and  as  large  as  a  man's  thumb  at  the  butt  end.  By  bend- 
ing it  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  U  it  may  easily  be  inserted  in 


THE    HOOP    STRETCHER.  275 

the  skin,  the  latter  being  fastened  by  catching  the  lip  on  each 
side  into  a  sliver  notch  cut  on  each  end  of  the  bow,  as  our  illus- 
tration indicates. 


For  large  animals,  such  as  the  deer,  bear,  beaver,  the  hoop 
stretcher  is  generally  employed. 

THE   HOOP   STRETCHER. 

This  consists  of  a  hoop  made  from  one  or  more  flexible 
switches  tied  together  so  as  to  form  a  circle.  In  order  to  be 
adapted  to  this  mode  of  stretching,  the  skin  should  be  flat,  /.  e. 
taken  off  as  described  on  page  172,  the  initial  cut  extending  from 
the  lower  jaw  to  the  vent.  The  size  of  the  hoop  required  depends 
upon  the  dimensions  of  the  skin.  Lay  the  latter  upon  some  flat 
surface  and  so  gauge  the  hoop  as  that  it  shall  surround  the  pelt 
on  all  sides ;  after  which  the  latter  should  be  secured  or  laced 
to  the  hoop  with  twine  at  the  edges.  All  loose  parts  should  be 
drawn  up,  and  the  skin  should  everywhere  be  stretched  hke  a 
drum  head.  When  this  is  accomplished  it  is  the  custom  with 
many  trappers  to  apply  the  2^reparation  described  on  page  273, 
particularly  where  the  skin  is  thick  and  fatty.  But  we  are 
rather  disposed  to  discourage  the  use  of  any  preparation  what- 
ever, in  any  case,  as  they  are  by  no  means  necessary. 

In  using  the  board  stretchers  the  fur  should  ahvays  be  on  the 
inside,  and  when  the  hoop  or  bow  is  used  it  should  be  placed  in 
such  a  position  that  the  air  may  circulate  freely  on  both  sides 
of  the  skin,  which  should  not  be  removed  until  thoroughly  dry. 


276  TANNING  SKINS. 

TANNING  SKINS. 

m  case  some  of  our  readers  might  desire  to  tan  fur  skins  for 
their  own  domestic  purposes,  the  subjoined  directions  will  be 
found  to  be  reliable,  and  for  all  ordinary  requirements,  suf- 
ficiently adequate. 

For  tanning  with  the  hair  on,  the  skin  should  first  be  cleaned, 
every  particle  of  loose  fat  or  fiesh,  being  removed,  and  the  use- 
less parts  cut  away.  When  this  is  done,  it  should  be  soaked 
for  an  hour  or  two  in  warm  water.  The  following  mixture  should 
then  be  prepared :  Take  equal  parts  of  borax,  saltpetre,  and 
sulphate  of  soda,  and  with  them  mix  water  sufficient  to  produce 
the  consistency  of  thin  batter. 

This  preparation  should  be  painted  thickly  on  the  flesh  side 
of  the  skin,  after  which  these  sides  should  be  doubled  together 
and  the  pelt  left  in  an  airy  place. 

A  second  mixture  should  next  be  prepared.  This  should 
consist  of  two  parts  sal  soda ;  three  parts  borax  ;  four  parts 
Castile  or  other  hard  soap  :  all  to  be  melted  together  over  a 
slow  fire.  At  the  end  of  twenty-four  hours,  after  the  applica- 
tion of  the  first  mixture,  the  second  should  be  applied  in  a 
similar  manner,  and  the  fur  again  folded  and  left  for  the  same 
length  of  time.  Next,  make  a  mixture  equal  parts  of  salt  and 
alum,  dissolved  in  warm  water  and  thickened  with  coarse  flour 
to  the  consistency  of  thin  paste.  Spread  this  thickly  over  the 
skin  and  allow  it  to  dry,  after  which  it  should  be  scraped  oft 
with  the  bowl  of  a  spoon.  The  skin  should  be  tightly  stretched 
during  the  operation,  in  order  to  prevent  too  great  shrinkage. 
A  single  application  of  the  last-named  dressing,  is  generally 
sufficient  for  small  skins  ;  but  a  second  or  third  treatment  may 
be  resorted  to  if  required,  to  make  the  skin  soft  and  pliable, 
after  which  it  should  be  finished  off  with  sand-paper  and  pumice 
stone.  A  skin  may  be  thus  dressed  as  soft  as  velvet,  and  the 
alum  and  salt  will  set  the  hair  securely. 

The  above  directions  are  excellent,  for  all  general  purposes, 
but  we  subjoin,  in  addition,  a  few  other  valuable  hints  and  spe- 
cific recipes  in  common  use.  Every  trapper  has  his  own  pecu- 
liar hobby  in  regard  to  his  tanning  process,  and  the  recipes  are 
various  and  extensive.  The  above  is  one  of  the  most  reliable 
for  general  use.  A  common  mode  of  tanning  mink  and  musk- 
rat  skins  is  given  in  the  following : — 

TO   TAN    MINK   AND   MUSKRAT   SKINS. 

Before  tanning,  the  skin  should  always  be  thoroughly  cleansed 


TO   TAN    MINK   AND    MUSKRAT   SKINS.  277 

in  warm  water,  and  all  fat  and  superfluous  flesh  removed.  It 
should  then  be  immersed  in  a  solution  made  of  the  following 
ingredients  :  Plve  gallons  of  cold  soft  water  ;  five  quarts  wheat 
bran  ;  one  gill  of  salt ;  and  one  ounce  of  sulphuric  acid.  Allow 
the  skins  to  soak  in  the  liquid  for  four  or  five  hours.  If  the 
hides  have  been  previously  salted,  the  salt  should  be  excluded 
from  the  mixed  solution.  The  skins  are  now  ready  for  the 
tanning  hquor,  which  is  made  in  the  following  way :  into  five 
gallons  of  warm,  soft  water,  stir  one  peck  of  wheat  bran,  and 
allow  the  mixture  to  stand  in  a  warm  room  until  fermentation 
takes  place.  Then  add  three  pints  of  salt,  and  stir  until  it  is 
thoroughly  dissolved.  A  pint  of  sulphuric  acid  should  then  be 
poured  in  gradually,  after  which  the  liquor  is  ready.  Immerse 
the  skins  and  allow  them  to  soak  for  three  or  four  hours.  The 
process  of  ''  fleshing  "  is  then  to  be  resorted  to.  This  consists 
in  laying  the  skin,  fur  side  down,  over  some  smooth  beam,  and 
working  over  the  flesh  side  with  a  blunt  fleshing  tool.  An  old 
chopping  knife,  or  tin  candlestick,  forms  an  excellent  substitute 
for  the  ordinary  fleshing  knife,  and  the  process  of  rubbing  should 
be  continued  until  the  skin  becomes  dry,  after  which  it  will  be 
found  to  be  soft  and  pliable.  The  skin  of  the  muskrat  is 
quite  tender,  and  the  fleshing  should  be  carefully  performed. 

HOW  TO   TAN  THE   SKINS   OF   BEAVER,   OTTER,  RACCOON,   AND 
MARTEN. 

These  should  be  stretched  on  a  board  and  smeared  with  a 
mixture  composed  of  three  ounces  each,  of  salt  and  alum  ; 
three  gills  of  water,  and  one  drachm  of  sulphuric  acid.  This 
should  be  thickened  with  wheat  bran  or  flour,  and  should  be  al- 
lowed to  dry  on  the  skin,  after  which  it  should  be  scraped  off 
with  a  spoon.  Next,  take  the  skin  from  the  board,  roll  it  with 
the  fur  inside,  and  draw  it  quickly  backward  and  forward,  over 
a  smooth  peg,  or  through  an  iron  ring.  The  skin  should  then 
be  unfolded  and  rolled  ag^in  the  opposite  way,  and  the  opera- 
tion repeated  until  the  pelt  is  quite  soft  and  flexible.  This  is  a 
good  way  of  softening  all  kinds  of  skins,  and  the  above  prepara- 
tion will  be  found  excellent  for  all  ordinary  purposes.  The 
muskrat  skin  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  above, 
if  desired,  and  the  process  directed  on  the  muskrat  skin 
may  also  be  applied  to  the  pelts  of  the  other  animals. 

To  remove  the  fur  for  a  simple  tanned  skin,  the  hide  should 
be  immersed  in  a  liquid  composed  of — soft  water,  five  gallons  ; 
slaked  lime,  four  quarts  ;  and  wood  ashes,  four  quarts.     Allow 

19 


278  OBSERVATIONS   ON 

the  skin  to  soak  for  a  couple  of  days,  after  which  the  fur  will 
readily  slip  off. 

Another  method — Take  equal  parts  wood  ashes  and  slaked 
lime,  and  add  water  to  the  consistency  of  batter.  Spread  this 
over  the  inside  of  the  skin,  roll  it  up,  and  place  it  in  a  pail, 
covering  it  with  water.  Here  let  it  remain  from  one  to  five 
days,  or  until  the  hair  will  shed  easily,  after  which  it  should 
be  finished  with  the  fleshing  knife  and  velveted  with  sand  paper. 

OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE     HISTORY     OF   FURS     AND     THE    FUR 

TRADE. 

In  all  cold  climates,  man  has  availed  himself  liberally  of  the 
warm  covering  with  which  nature  has  clothed  the  animals  around 
him ;  but  the  wealth  of  the  most  favored  nations  has  drawn  to 
them  the  most  beautiful  furs,  in  whatever  part  of  the  world  they 
are  procured.  Skins  of  animals  were  among  the  first  materials 
used  for  clothing.  Before  Adam  and  Eve  were  driven  from 
the  Garden  of  Eden,  they  were  furnished  with  coats  of  skins. 
The  ancient  Assyrians  used  the  soft  skins  of  animals  to  cover 
the  couches  or  the  ground  in  their  tents,  and  the  Israelites  em- 
ployed badger's  skins  and  ram's  skins,  as  ornamental  hangings 
for  the  Tabernacle.  The  ancient  heroes  of  the  Greeks  and 
Romans,  are  represented  as  being  clothed  in  skins,  ^neas, 
wearing  for  an  outer  garment,  that  of  the  lion,  and  Alcestes 
being  formidably  clad  in  that  of  the  Libyan  Bear.  Herodotus 
speaks  of  those  living  near  the  Caspian  Sea  wearing  seal 
skins,  and  Caesar  mentions  that  the  skin  of  the  reindeer  formed 
in  part  the  clothing  of  the  Germans.  In  the  early  period,  furs 
appear  to  have  constituted  the  entire  riches  of  the  Northern 
countries,  and  they  were  almost  the  only  exports.  Taxes  were 
paid  on  them,  and  they  were  the  medium  of  exchange.  So  it 
was  also  in  our  own  Western  territories  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
last  century,  and  is  to  the  present  day,  to  a  great  extent,  among 
the  Indians.  In  the  eleventh  century,  furs  had  become  fashion- 
able throughout  Europe,  and  the  art  of  dyeing  them,  was  prac- 
ticed in  the  twelfth.  In  the  history  of  the  Crusades,  frequent 
mention  is  made  of  the  magnificent  displays  by  the  European 
Princes,  of  their  dresses  of  costly  furs,  before  the  Court  at 
Constantinople.  But  Richard  I.  of  England,  and  Philip  II.  of 
France,  in  order  to  check  the  growing  extravagance  in  their 
use,  resolved  that  the  choicer  furs,  ermine  and  sable  amongst 
the  number,  should  be  omitted  from  their  kingly  wardrobes. 
Louis. IX.  followed  their  example  in   the  next  century,  but  not 


FURS  AND  THE  FUR  TRADE.  279 

until  his  extravagance  had  grown  to  such  a  pitcli,  that  seven 
Jmndred  and  forty-six  ermines  were  required  for  the  lining  of 
one  of  his  snrcoats.  In  these  times,  the  use  of  the  choicer 
furs,  as  those  of  the  sable,  ermine,  gris,  and  Hungarian  squir- 
rel, was  restricted  to  the  royal  families  and  the  nobility,  to 
whom  they  served  as  distinctive  marks  and  badges  of  rank. 
These  privileged  persons  applied  them  lavishly  to  their  own 
use,  and  the  "fashion  extended  to  the  princes  of  other  less 
civilized  nations.  Their  royal  use  soon  extended  to  Tartary, 
and  the  tents  of  the  Khan  were  bedecked  with  the  most  rich  and 
costly  furs.  In  the  following  century,  furs  were  commonly  worn  in 
England  until  their  use  was  prohibited^ by  Edward  1 1 1.,  to  all  per- 
sons whose  purse  would  not  warrant  a  yearly  expenditure  of  ^100. 

The  early  fur  trade  of  Western  Europe,  was  conducted 
through  the  merchants  on  the  south  coast  of  the  Baltic,  who 
received  goods  from  the  ports  of  Livonia.  In  the  sixteenth 
century,  a  direct  trade  was  opened  between  the  English  and 
Russians ;  and  a  company  of  the  former,  protected  by  the  Czar, 
established  trading  posts  on  the  White  Sea,  and  a  warehouse 
at  Moscow,  whence  they  sent  trading  parties  to  Persia  and  the 
countries  on  the  Caspian  Sea.  The  Czar  sent  rich  presents  of 
beautiful  furs,  to  Queen  Mary  and  Queen  Elizabeth  ;  but  the 
latter  prohibited  the  wearing  of  any  but  native  furs,  and  the 
trade  soon  declined  and  was  abandoned.  In  the  17th  century, 
Siberia  was  conquered  by  the  Russians,  and  its  tribute  was 
paid  in  furs.  Large  quantities  were  also  furnished  to  China, 
but  the  choicest  kinds — the  precious  ermine,  the  brilliant,  fiery 
foxes,  and  the  best  sables,  were  taken  to  Moscow,  for  the  use 
of  the  princes  and  nobles  of  Russia,  Turkey,  and  Persia. 

In  our  own  country,  the  early  settlers  of  the  Northern  prov- 
inces, soon  learned  the  value  of  the  furs  of  the  numerous  ani- 
mals which  peopled  the  extensive  rivers,  lakes,  and  forests  of 
these  vast  territories.  They  collected  the  skins  in  abundance, 
and  found  an  increasing  demand  for  them,  with  every  new  arri- 
val of  immigrants  from  the  mother  country.  Trinkets,  liquors, 
and  other  articles  sought  for  by  the  native' tribes,  were  shipped 
to  Quebec,  and  from  thence  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal, 
which  soon  became  the  great  trading  post  of  the  country.  The 
various  tribes  of  Indians  were  stimulated  by  trifling  compensa- 
tion, to  pursue  their  only  congenial  and  peaceful  occupation ;  and 
the  French  settlers,  readily  assimilating  to  the  Indian  habits, 
became  themselves  expert  hunters,  trappers,  and  explorers. 

The  business  prospered,  and  the  English  soon  became  in- 
terested and  secured  a  share   of  the  valuable   trade.     Many 


28o  OBSERVATIONS    ON 

wealthy  and  influential  parties,  connected  with  the  government 
of  Great  Britain, — Prince  Rupert  and  Lord  Ashley,  among  the 
number — became  deeply  interested  in  this  source  of  revenue  ; 
and  after  a  successful  enterprise,  they  obtained  from  Charles 
II.,  a  charter  of  incorporation,  giving  to  them  full  posses- 
sion of  the  territory  within  the  entrance  of  Hudson's  Straits, 
not  already  granted  to  other  subjects,  or  possessed  by  those  of 
any  other  Christian  prince  or  State.  In  this  charter  was  in- 
cluded the  monopoly,  of  all  trade  in  these  regions,  and  thus  we 
see  the  origin  of  the  Great  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  is 
to-day,  one  of  the  largest  organizations  of  its  kind  on  the 
globe.  The  territory  they  claimed,  extended  from  Hudson's 
Bay,  west  to  the  Pacific,  and  north  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  except- 
ing that  occupied  by  the  French  and  Russians.  They  soon 
formed  settlements  upon  the  various  rivers  which  empty  into 
Hudson's  Bay,  and  carried  on  their  operations  with  immense 
vigor  and  success.  They  met  with  much  opposition  and  open 
hostility  from  the  French,  and  were  subjected  to  vast  expenses 
and  losses,  but  in  spite  of  all,  they  continued  to  prosper.  Their 
forts  or  factories  were  extended  further  into  the  interior  of 
British  America,  and  their  power  was  supreme  throughout  the 
country,  and  in  a  great  measure  over  the  Indians,  whom  they  em- 
ployed to  collect  their  skins.  In  the  course  of  time,  the  French 
Canadians  organized  themselves  into  a  united  band,  under  the 
name  of  the  North  West  Company,  and  established  their  head- 
quarters at  Montreal.  Their  operations  were  carried  on  with 
great  energy  and  profit,  and  many  factories  were  built  in  the 
western  portion  of  the  Province.  The  company  thus  soon 
became  a  formidable  competitor  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, and  for  a  period  of  two  years,  an  actual  state  of  war  ex- 
isted between  them.  This  condition  of  affairs  finally  termin- 
ated in  a  consolidation  of  the  two  organizations,  under  the 
name  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  privileges  of  which 
extended  over  all  the  territory  formerly  occupied  by  both. 

Thus,  we  have  the  history  of  the  famous  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  from  its  origin  to  its  perfect  organization.  It  is  a 
most  stupendous  concern,  and  its  annual  shipment  of  furs,  is 
something  amazing.  Their  great  sales  take  place  in  the 
month  of  March,  in  order  to  be  completed  before  Easter ; 
and  again  in  September,  every  year  at  London,  and  are  at- 
tended by  purchasers  from  nearly  all  parts  of  the  world. 
Leipsic,  the  famous  fur  mart  of  Germany,  is  also  the  scene  of 
a  great  annual  fair,  for  the  sale  of  skins.* 

The  importance  of  the  fur  trade  in  this  country,  led  to  the 


FURS  AND  THE  FUR  TRADE.  28 1 

early  settlement  of  the  Western  territories  of  the  United  States ; 
and  many  a  frontier  city,  like  St.  Paul,  has  been  built  up  by 
the  enterprise  of  the  trapper.  Mackinaw  and  Montreal  owe 
much  of  their  growth  to  the  traffic  of  the  fur  trade ;  and  many 
a  kingly  fortune — John  Jacob  Astor's,  for  instance — has  been 
founded  on  peltry. 

Besides  the  above  fur  sales  in  London  a  moderate  portion  of 
those  annually  collected  in  the  United  States  are  retained  for 
use,  amounting  to  about  150,000  mink  and  750,000  muskrat 
skins,  besides  a  number  of  other  furs  which  are  manufactured 
and  worn. 

The  annual  yield  of  raw  furs  throughout  the  whole  world  is 
estimated  at  over  twenty  millions  of  dollars  in  value ;  and  when 
we  include  the  manufactured  articles  therefrom,  the  amount  will 
swell  to  a  hundred  milHons  or  over.  This  will  serve  to  give 
some  idea  of  the  immensity  and  value  of  the  business. 

American  dealers  divide  our  native  furs  into  two  classes,  viz., 
home  and  shipping  furs ;  the  former  being  chiefly  utilized  in 
our  own  country,  while  the  latter  are  exported  to  all  parts  of 
the  world.  New  York  City  is  the  great  fur  mart  and  depot  for 
the  shipping  trade  in  this  country,  and  the  annual  value  of  its 
exports,  in  this  one  branch  of  trade  is  enormous. 

The  principal  shipping  furs  are  the  silver,  red  and  cross  Fox, 
Wild  Cat,  Raccoon,  Fisher,  Muskrat  and  Skunk. 

Among  the  home  furs  are  the  Marten.  Mink,  Opossum,  Wolf 
and  Muskrat,  the  latter  being  extensively  used  both  here  and 
abroad. 

In  the  following  chapter  will  be  found  more  detailed  notes  on 
the  leading  American  furs,  including  their  various  uses  and  the 
different  countries  for  which  they  are  the  especial  staples. 

In  order  to  give  the  reader  some  idea  of  the  variety  and  mag- 
nitude of  the  yield  of  furs  from  our  own  country,  we  annex  a 
table  (p.  282)  showing  the  sales  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
at  London,  in  the  year  1873. 

MARKET   VALUE   OF   FUR   SKINS. 

Below  will  be  found  "an  authentic  table  of  the  comparative 
values  of  the  various  American  furs  at  the  present  date  of  pub- 
lication. Tiie  quotations  are  those  of  one  of  our  largest  fur 
dealers,  as  published  in  *'  The  Hat,  Cap  and  Fur  Trade 
-  Review,''  the  leading  journal  of  the  trade  in  America.  Of 
course  these  values^re  constantly  varying— keeping  pace  with  the 
eccentricities  of  fashion  and  the  demands  of  the  fur  trade  ;  but 


282   OBSERVATIONS  ON  FURS  AND  THE  FUR  TRADE, 


Kinds. 

•1  -^ 

0      rt 

12;  § 

No.  cf  Sldns. 
Sept.  Sale. 

0' 
12: 

0 
H 

Price  according  to 

quality. 

Estimated 
average  price 
per  skin. 

Badger 

2,700 
5.217 

111,993 
2,843 
90 
1,818 
6,930 
6,914 
540 
7,312 
2,468 

47,878 
31,802 

651,498 
8,571 

2,794 

37,052 
779 

471 

***i,*383 
148 

1,652 

18,955 

12,896 

316,488 

2,681 

98 

"*3,V82 

"*"iS8 
320 

2,700 
8,011 
149,045 
3,622 
90 
2,289 

6,930 

8,297 

688 

7,312 

4,120 

66,833 

44,698 

767,896 

11,252 

98 
10,029 

1^69 1 
6,404 
2,090 

IS.  to  7s. 
5  s.  to  £8  I  OS. 
4s.  3d.  to  38s.  6d. 
8s.  to  £3  5s. 
iSs.  to  .£4. 
5s.  to  £4. 
2s.  8d.  to  28s.  lod. 
4s.  6d.  to  17s. 
£3  los.  to  £21. 
2s.  to  14s.  9d. 
9s.  6d.  to  £1  14s. 
I  OS.  to  £3  19s. 
4s.  to  £1  8s.  6d. 
3d.  to  i6d. 
14s.  to  £3  i8s. 
£4  I  OS.  to  £32. 
3d.  to  4d. 
IS.  to  3s.  3d. 
2s.  to  7s. 
6s.  to  £2  15s. 
Ss.toXi  IS. 

£    s.    d. 
I  06 

Bear 

5     0  00 
I  00  00 

Beaver 

Fisher 

2  10  00 

Fox,  Blue. 

"     Cross 

«     Kitt 

*'     Red 

"     Silver 

"    White 

Lynx 

2  10  00 
I  10  00 

3  00 

10  00 

10  00  00 

7  00 
18  00 

Marten 

I  10  00 

Mink.. 

i^  00 

00    8 

2  10  00 

Muskrat 

Otter 

"    Sea 

15  00  00 

00    3 

2    6 

Rabbit 

10,029 

Raccoon 

Skunk 

1,691 
6,216 

1,77c 

4  00 
15  00 
15  00 

Wolf 

Wolverine 

the  table  will  serve  at  least  to  gauge  the  relative  values,  as  be- 
tween the  two  extremes  of  common  and  scarce  furs.  The 
fur  market  is  a  great  deal  like  the  stock  market.  It  is  constant- 
ly fluctuating,  and  a  fur  which  is  to-day  among  the  novelties, 
may  next  year  find  itself  on  the  low  priced  list.  The  demand 
for  furs  of  any  kind  is  nearly  always  governed  by  fashion,  and 
of  course  the  value  is  estimated  on  the  demand.  If  the  con- 
vention of  fur  dealers  should  decide  to  usher  in  Mtiskrat  fur 
as  the  leading  and  most  fashionable  article  in  that  line,  the 
fashion  would  create  the  demand,  the  demand  would  be  in  turr 
supplied  by  the  trappers  throughout  the  country,  and  in  pro- 
portion as  the  Muskrat  skins  became  scarce,  so  their  value 
would  increase.  In  this  way  a  skin  which  may  be  worth  fifty 
cents  at  one  time  may  soon  acquire  a  value  of  twenty  times  that 
amount.  The  comparative  value  of  skins  is,  therefore,  constant- 
ly varying  more  or  less  ;  but  the  annexed  table  (page  283)  will  be 
found    useful    for    general    reference,    and    for    approximate 


AMERICAN    FUR   SKINS.  283 

AMERICAN   FUR   SKINS — TABLE    OP    VALUES.* 


Badger 

Bear,  Black 

"      Cub 

"      Brown 

Beaver,  California per  lb. 

*'      Southern 

"      Upper  Missouri 

"      Lake  Supr.  and  Canada 

Cat,  Wild 

"    House 

Deer,  Florida per  lb 

"     Missouri 

Elk  and  Moose per  lb, 

j^isher,  Southern 

"         Eastern  and  Canada 

Fox,  Silver 

"      Cross 

"      Blue 

"      White 

"      Red 

♦'      Gray 

"      Kitt 

Lynx,  Minnesota 

"      Canada 

Marten,  Dark 

"      Small  Pale 

Mink,  Southern.  

•'       Western 

"       Middle  States 

"      Minnesota 

"       New  England 

"      Quebec  and  Halifax 

Muskrat,  Southern 

"  Western 

"  Northern 

*'  Eastern   

Opossum,  Ohio 

"  Southern 

Otter,  Southern 

"        Northern 

Rabbit 

Raccoon,  Southern 

"  Western 

"  Michigan 

Seal,  Hair 

"      Fur 

Skunk,  Black  Cased 

"         Half  Stripe 

"         White 

Wolf,  Timber 

"       Prairie 

Wolverine 


Prime. 


18.00 

10  00 

7.00 

1.25 

1. 00 

1-75 

2.50 

40 

15 
20 
20 

35 
7.00 
10.00 
ICO. 00 
3.00 
15.00 
3.00 

1-75 
3-0O 

50 
2.50 
4.00 
10.00 
2.00 
1. 00 
1.25 
2.00 
2.50 

3-50 

4.00 
28 
30 
32 
35 
30 
20 

5.00 

10.00 

3 

50 

1.00 

1-25 

60 


Seconds . 


$0.50 
9.00 
5.00 
4.00 

75 

75 

1.5c 

1-75 


25 
5.00 
8.00 
25.00 
1.50 
5.00 
1.50 
1,00 
1.50 

25 
1,00 

2-00 
6.00 
1. 00 

50 
1. 00 
1.25 
1.50 

1-75 
2.00 

25 
28 
30 
30 


3.00 
6.00 


60 
50 
10 

I-50 
75 

2.00 


Thirds. 


;po.io 
1. 00 
1. 00 
1.00 

50 
40 

50 
75 


1. 00 
2.00 

I.OD 


2.00 
50 
25 
50 
50 

75 
1. 00 
1.00 

15 

18 
20 


2.00 
2.00 


Fourths. 


*  From  the  "  Hat,  Cap  and  Fur  Trade  Review." 


284  MARKET    VALUE   OF    FUR    SKINS. 

figures,  will  j^robably  answer  every  jDurposc  for  some  time  to 
come. 

i  Notwithstanding  all  these  advertised  prices,  the  young  trap- 
per often  experiences  great  difficulty  in  a  profitable  disposal  of 
his  furs.  Like  every  other  business,  the  fur  trade  runs  in  its 
regular  grooves,  and  the  average  furrier  will  often  pay  an  ex- 
perienced professional  five  dollars  for  a  skin  for  which  he  would 
not  offer  a  dollar  to  an  amateur.  This  certainly  seems  discour- 
aging, but  the  knowledge  of  the  fact  is  calculated  to  prevent 
greater  discouragement. 

We  often  see  fancy  prices  advertised  by  fur  dealers  for  first- 
class  skins  ;  but  when  the  furs  are  sent,  only  a  few  are  selected 
as  "- prime ^^"^  the  rest  being  rejected  as  worthless,  or  perhaps 
meeting  with  a  meagre  offer  far  below  the  regular  rates.  In 
this  way  the  dealers  have  the  opportunity  of  choice  selection 
without  incurring  any  risk.  Many  a  young  trapper  has  been 
thus  disappointed,  and  has  seen  his  small  anticipated  fortune 
dwindle  down  to  very  small  proportions. 

The  fur  trade  is  suppHed  through  regular  professional  chan- 
nels ;  and  in  giving  our  advice  to  the  novice,  we  would  recom- 
mend as  the  most  satisfactory  and  profitable  plan  that  he  should 
make  his  sales  to  some  local  hunter  or  trapper,  who  has  had  ex- 
perience with  the  fur  trade,  and  who  is  satisfied  to  pay  a  fair 
price  for  the  various  skins  with  the  probability  of  selling  at  an 
advance,  and  thus  realizing  a  profit. 

In  nearly  every  trapping  locality  such  men  are  to  be  found, 
and  although  the  prices  earned  may  be  below  the  market  rates, 
the  amateur  takes  none  of  the  speculative  risks  of  the  business, 
and  should  be  willing  to  take  lower  prices  on  this  account. 

AMERICAN   FUR   SKINS — THEIR   USES   AT   HOME  AND    ABROAD. 

In  the  early  history  of  fur  apparel,  its  use  was  determined  by 
clmiate;  to-day,  and  especially  in  this  country,  it  is  regulated  by 
the  caprice  of  fashion.  The  mink  for  many  years  took  the 
lead  in  the  list  of  fashionable  furs,  but  has  of  late  been  super- 
seded by  the  introduction  of  the  fur  seal.  The  most  choice  and 
costly  of  our  American  furs  at  the  present  day  is  the  Silver  Fox. 
When  highly  dressed  they  are  worth  from  10  to  50  guineas  each 
in  the  European  market.  They  are  principally  bought  by  the 
Russians  and  Chinese. 

The  skins  of  the  Red  Fox  are  purchased  by  the  Chinese, 
Greeks,  Persians,  and  other  Oriental  nations.  They  are  made 
into  linings  for  robes,  etc.,  and  ornamented  with  the  black  fur 
of  the  paws  which  is  set  on  in  spots  or  waves.     The  fur  of  tbe 


AMERICAN   FUR  SKINS — ^THEIR   USES,    ETC.  285 

Beaver  was  formerly  highly  prized  in  the  manufacture  of  hats, 
and  yielded  a  large  portion  of  the  profits  of  the  Fur  Companies, 
constituting  the  largest  item  in  value  among  furs.  Cheaper 
materials  have  since  been  substituted  in  making  hats,  and  the 
demand  for  this  purpose  has  been  greatly  reduced.  By  a  new 
process  the  skin  is  now  prepared  as  a  handsome  fur  for  col- 
lars and  gauntlets,  and  its  fine  silky  wool  has  been  successfully 
woven.  The  Isoft,  white  fur  from  the  belly  of  the  animal,  is 
largely  used  in  France  for  bonnets. 

Raccoon  skins  are  the  great  staple  for  Russia  and  Germany, 
where,  on  account  of  their  durability  and  cheapness,  they  are 
in  demand  for  linings  for  coats,  etc.  Among  the  Bearskins, 
those  of  the  black  and  grizzly  are  extensively  used  for  miUtary 
caps,  housings,  holsters,  sleigh  robes,  etc. 

The  fur  of  the  Lynx  is  soft,  warm  and  light,  and  is  commonly 
dyed  of  a  beautiful  shining  black.  It  is  used  for  the  facings  and 
linings  of  cloaks,  chiefly  in  America. 

The  Fisher  yields  a  dark  and  full  fur  which  is  largely  used  in 
fashionable  winter  apparel. 

The  skin  of  the  Marten,  is  richly  dyed  and  utilized  in  choice 
furs  and  trimmings. 

The  Mink,  like  the  two  foregoing,  belongs  to  the  same  genus 
as  the  Russian  Sable,  and  its  fur  so  much  resembles  the  latter 
as  to  be  sometimes  mistaken  for  it.  It  is  one  of  fashion's 
furs,  and  the  hair  of  the  tail  is  sometimes  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  artist's  pencils. 

The  Muskrat  produces  the  fur  most  worn  by  the  masses,  and 
is  largely  exported  into  Germany,  France  and  England.  It  is 
estimated  that  over  six  millions  of  muskrat  skins  are  annually 
taken  in  America,  and  of  that  number  one-half  are  used  in  Ger- 
many alone. 

The  skin  of  the  Otter  is  at  present  classed  among  the  lead- 
ing fashionable  furs  in  this  country.  They  are  dyed  of  a  deep 
purplish  black  color,  and  are  made  into  sacques,  muffs,  etc.  It 
is  also  used  by  the  Russians,  Greeks  and  Chinese.  It  is  mostly 
an  American  product,  but  is  also  procured  to  some  extent  in 
the  British  Isles  from  a  smaller  variety  of  the  species. 

The  skins  of  the  Wolf  are  chiefly  used  for  sleigh  robes  and 
such  purposes.  The  fur  of  the  Rabbit  is  mainly  employed  in 
the  manufacture  of  felt,  and  is  also  utilized  for  lining  and  trim- 
ming. The  business  of  breeding  rabbits  for  their  fur  has  been 
introduced  into  the  United  States,  and  large  numbers  have  been 
successfully  raised  in  Danbury,  Conn.,  for  felting  purposes  con* 
nected  with  the  manufacture  of  hats. 


586 


AMERICAN     FUR    SKINS THEIR    USES,    ETC. 


The  fur  of  theWoIverinc  or  Glutton, finds  a  market  for  the  most 
part  in  Germany,  where  it  is  used  for  trimmings  and  cloak  linings. 

The  Skunk  furnishes  the  fur  known  as  Alaska  Sable,  which 
forms  one  of  our  staple  pelts,  many  thousands  being  annually 
exported  to  Poland  and  the  adjacent  provinces. 

The  Badger  yields  a  valuable  and  fashionable  fur,  which  is 
also  extensively  used  in  the  manufacture  of  artist's  brushes ; 
a  good  "  badger  blender  "  forming  a  valuable  'accessory  to  a 
painter's  outfit.  Shaving  brushes  by  the  thousand  are  annually 
made  from  the  variegated  hair  of  the  badger. 

The  Opossum  yields  a  fur  in  very  common  use  among  the 
masses,  and  the  skins  of  the  domestic  Cat  are  utiHzed  to  a  con- 
siderable extent  in  the  manufacture  of  robes,  mats,  etc.  The 
fur  of  the  Puma  and  Wild  Cat  are  also  employed  in  this  form, 
and  may  often  be  seen  handsomely  mounted  and  hanging  on  the 
backs  of  sleighs  on  our  fashionable  thoroughfares.  Among  the 
small  game  the  skins  of  Squirrels  are  used  for  linings,  and  the 
soft,  velvety  fur  of  the  Mole  is  manufactured  into  light  robes, 
and  very  fine  hats,  and  in  theatrical  paraphernalia  is  sometimes 
employed  for  artificial  eyebrows. 

Fu-1  descriptions  of  the  color  of  the  various  furs  will  be  found 
ia  our  lengthy  illustrated  chapter  on  our  American  animals. 


Adirondack  experiences  with  mosquitoes, 

256. 
Advice  to  the  Novice  on  the  sale  of  Furs, 

283. 
Air-tight  Jar,  for  butter,  &c.,  236. 
Alaska  Sable,  286. — See  also  Skunk. 
Alcohol,  its  use  and  abuse,  257. 
Alum— used  in  waterproofing,  249. 
"Amateur  Trapping,"  225. 
Amber,  Oil  of,  used  in  the  art  of  Trap- 
ping, J  52. 
American  Fur  Skins. — Table  of  values, 

284. 

Their  uses  at  Home  and  Abroad,  284. 
American  Lion. — See  Puma. 
Amputation,  self  inflicted,  as  a  means  of 

escape  with  captured  animals,  144. 

To  prevent,  144,  145. 
Ancient  uses  of  Furs,  278. 
Anise,  On.  OF. — 

Its  use  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 

As  bait  for  fish,  240. 
Annual  yield  of  Furs  throughout  the  world, 

281. 
Apparatus  for  stretching  skins,  273. 
Arrows,  poisoned,  26. 
Arrow  Traps,  23,  25. 
Artificial  Eyebrows  of  Mole  Fur,  286. 
Art  of  Trapping,  148. 
assafcetida. — 

Its  use  by  the  Trapper,  151. 

As  scent  bait  for  fish,  240. 
AsTOR,  John  Jacob,  and  the  Fur  Trade, 

281. 
Astringent  Preparations,  use  of,  in  drying 
Skins,  273,  276. 


B 

Badger,  the. — 

Nature  and  habits  of,  175. 

Skinning  the,  177. 

Trapping  the,  175. 

Uses  of  Fur,  286. 

Value  of  Fur,  284. 
Bags,  Waterproof,  for  food,  236W 
Baiting  the  Steel  Trap,  143. 
Baits  for  fishing,  240. 
Baits,  scent,  149. 
Bait,  Trapping  without,  148. 
Bark  Shanty. — 

Hints  on,  266. 

Details  of  construction,  245. 
Bark-Stone. — See  Castoreum. 
Bark-Stone  composition.— See  Castoreum, 
"  Barque." — See  Birch  Bark  Canoe. 
Barrel  Hoops  used  in  canoe  building,  264. 
Barrel  Traps,  125,  127,  133. 
Basket  for  the  shoulders,  234,  236. 
Basswood-bark  canoes,  264. 
Bateaux,  264. 
Bat  Fowling  Net,  70. 
Baking,  recipe  for,  253. 
Bay  Lynx.— See  Wild  Cat. 
Beans  as  food,  235. 
Bear. — 

Nature  and  habits  of,  168,  227. 

'I'rapping  the,  168. 

Traps  for,  17,  29,  143. 

Various  species  of,  168. 

Directions  for  removing  skin,  172. 

Use  of  skin,  285. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
"  Bear  Tamer,"  137,  142. 
"  Bear  Chasing,"  dangers  of  the  sport,  170. 


290 


INDEX. 


Bear  Grease,  171. 
Bear  Meat,  to  roast,  233. 

*'        "      to  dry,  237. 
Beaver.— 

Nature  and  habits  of,  1 77, 

Trapping  the,  177. 

Skinning  the,  182. 

Skin,  to  tan,  277. 

Use  of  fur,  285. 

Vahie  of  skin,  284. 
Beds  and  Bedding,  248. 
Bed,  spring,  248. 

"    hammock,  swinging,  249. 
Bed  clothes,  249. 
Big  Horn,  the,  220. 

As  food,  220,  238' 

Nature  and  habits  of,  220. 

Trapping  the,  220. 
Birch  Bark  Canoe,  remarks  on,  226. 

Directions  for  making,  261. 
Bird-Catching  Net,  70. 
Bird  Lime,  97. 

Masticated  Wheat  used  as,  99. 

Recipe  for  making,  98. 

Used  in  capture  cf  Puma,  35. 

Used  for  capture  cf  Hummuig  Bird, 
99. 

Used  in  making  Fly-paper,  136. 

Used  with  an  Owl  as  decoy,  98. 

With  paper  cone,  as  a  Crow  trap,  96. 
Bird  Traps,  65. 

"     Box,  88,  90,  gi. 
Bird  Whistle,  72. 
Bison.— See  Buffalo. 
Black  Fly. — See  "  Punkey." 
Blanket,  woollen,  250. 

Rubber,  236. 

Use  of,  250. 
Block-tin,  used  for  kettles,  &c.,  235. 
Blossom,  utilized  as  a  trap,  99. 
Blow-gun,  used  in  the  capture  cf   Ilum- 

ing  Bird,  99. 
Board  Flap,  the,  130. 
Board  Stretchers,  273. 
Boats,  remarks  on,  226. 

Manufacture  of,  259. 

The  dug-out,  or  log  canoe,  259. 

The  birch-bark  canoe,  261. 

The  bateau,  264. 

The  scow,  267. 

The  flat-bottomed  boat,  267. 
Boiled  Mush,  232. 

"  to  fry,  232. 

Boiling  water  used  in  bending  wood,  268, 

272. 
Book    I.  Traps  for  Large  Game,  17. 
IL  Snares  or  Noose  Traps,  39. 

in.  Traps  for  Feathered  Game, 
65. 


IV.  Miscellaneous  Traps,  103. 
V.  Household  Traps,  125. 
VI.  Steel  Traps  and  THE  Art  OF 
Trapping,  137. 

VII.  The  Campaign,  225, 
VIII.  The  Trapper's  Miscellany, 
255. 
Boots,  hints  on,  228. 

Grease  for,  228* 
Bottle  Lantern,  241. 

"     Match  Safe,  234. 
Bow  Stretcher,  for  skins,  274. 
Bow  Traps,  23,  25,  116. 
Bowl  Traps,  135,  136. 
Box  Bird  Traps,  55,  88,  90,  91. 
Box  Dead  Fall,  128. 
Box  Hut,  used  in  Pickerel  fishing,  241. 
Box  Owl  Trap,  88. 
Box  Pit-fall,  131. 
Box  Snares,  55,  56. 
Box  Trap,  the,  103 

Two  modes  of  setting,  105. 
Box  Traps,  55,  56,  88,  90,   91,    103,  106, 

109,  no. 
Box  Trap,  pendent,  91. 
15randy  on  a  trapping  campaign,  257 
Brass  wire  nooses,  41. 
Brick  Trap,  66. 
Broiling,  recipes  for,  233. 
Brook  Trout,  fishing  through  the  ice,  240. 

"      To  cook  deliciously,  232. 
Bruises,  ointment  for,  255. 
Buckskin  gloves,  in  handling  trails,  149. 
Building  the  camp  fire,  233. 
Buffalo,  the,  220. 

As  food,  221,  238. 

How  hunted  and  trapped,  221. 
Building  boats,  259. 
Butternut  log,  for  canoe,  239. 
Butter,  to  keep  on  a  campaign,.  236. 

C 

Cage  traps  for  birds,  76. 
"  "   mice,  134. 

Call  Birds,  how  used,  72. 
Campaign  Life  in  the  Wilderness, 

225. 
Campaign,  Plan  of,  225. 
Camp  fire,  228. 

To  build,  233. 
Camp  Kettle,  235. 

"      Knife,  235- 

"      Stove,  228,  235. 
Canada  Grouse,  238. 

"     Lynx. — See  Lynx. 

"     Moose. — See  Moose. 
Candles,  in  camp,  227. 

**      Novel  way  of  using,  2 18. 


INDEX. 


291 


Canned  vegetables,  236. 
Canoes,  remarks  on,  226. 
"  Basswood-bark,  264. 
**  Birch-bark,   directions    for  building, 

261. 
"  Hemlock  bark,  264. 
"  Log. — Sec  Dug-out. 
"  Spruce  bark,  264. 
Canton  flannel  bags,  for  bed  clothes,  249. 
Canvass-back  Duck,  as  food,  239. 
Canvas  bags,  waterproof,  236. 
Caps,  percussion,  used  in  lighting  fire,  234. 
Capture  of  Animals,  154- 
Carpeting  Tents,  250. 
Castoreum,  or  Barkstone,  150. 

How  obtained,  150. 

How  used. — See  Beaver. 
Castoreum  composition,  150. 
Cat,  domestic,  use  of  skin,  286. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Cat,  wild.— See  Wild  Cat. 
Caulking  boats,  261,  266. 
Caution  in  baiting  steel  traps,  143. 
Caution  in  handling  steel  traps,  149. 
Chill,  remedy  for,  257. 
Chimney-fire  in  log  shanty,  245. 
Chip  as  a  plate,  232. 
Chip,  for  a  frying  pan,  230,  232. 
Chloride  of  Lime,  as  an  antidote,  152. 
Choosing  a  trapping  ground,  225. 
Cicely,  Sweet,  as  scent  bait  in  fishing,  240- 
Cities  built  up  by  the  fur  trade,  281. 
Clap  Net,  72. 
Clearing  tents  and  shanties  from  insects, 

230. 
Climate  and  fur  apparel,  284. 
Clog,  the,  146. 
Cloth  for  tent  making,  247. 

"  Wateri^roof  preparation  for,  247. 
Clothing,  hints  on,  228. 
Coasting  on  the  Indian  sled,  270. 
Cock  of  the  plains,  238. 
Coffee,  236. 
Coffee-pot,  235. 
Cold,  remedy  for,  257. 
Combination  camp-knif'^,  235. 
Common  Box  Trap,  103. 
Compass,  pocket,  227. 
Compound  scent-bait,  150,  153. 
Concealing  steel  traps,  229. 
Cone  of  paper  as  a  trap,  96. 
Corrall,  African  trap,  34. 
Cooking  Utensils  for  a  Campaign, 

230,  235- 
Coon. — See  Raccoon. 
Coop  Trap,  67. 

*'  For  large  game,  33. 
Cotton  drilling,  used  for  making  tents,  247. 
"  Waterproof  preparation  for,  247. 


"  Cotton  Tail."— See  Rabbit. 

Cougar. — See  Puma. 

Cow's  udder,  as  fish  bait,  240. 

Crackers  as  food,  236. 

Crow  trap,  96. 

Cummin,  used  in  trapping,  152. 

Cup,  portable,  231. 

Curing  Skins,  272. 

Current  price  list  of  American  furs,  284. 

D 

Dark  lantem,  used  by  bird  catchers,  71. 

Deer  hunters,  217. 
Dead-Falls,  17,  29,  107,  iii,  113. 
"  Box,  128. 
"  For  large  game,  17. 
"  How  set  for  the  fox,  113. 
"  Stone,  29. 

**  Weighted  haqooon,  26. 
"  With  figure  four  trap,  114. 
Dead  fish,  valuable  in  making  trails,  153. 
Decoys,  72,  76,  94. 
Decov  traps,  72,  76,  94. 
*'  Whistle,  74. 
"  Owl  used  as,  98, 
Deer,  214. 

As  food,  233,  237,  23S. 
How  to  skin  the,  219. 
Hunting  at  night,  217,  210. 
Luminosity  of  eyes  at  night,  217,  21 S. 
Natural  characteristics  of,  214. 
Salt  as  bait  for,  218. 
Season  for  hunting,  218. 
Trapping  the,  214,  215. 
Various  modes  of  hunting,  217. 
Various  species  of,  215. 
Deer  lick,  the,  215. 
Deer  meat,  to  dry,  237. 
Deer  meat,  to  roast,  233. 
Delmonico  outdone,  232. 
Detecting  the  direction  of  the  wind  by  the 

finger,  217. 
Devices  used  in  connection  with  the  steel 

trap,  144,  147. 
Devils'  Lantem,  241. 
Diet  of  the  Trapper,  230. 
"Double  Ender,"  the,  107. 
Double  traps,  57,  109,  110,  129. 
Down  Fall,  the,  26. 
Dressing  for  fur  skins,  273,  276. 
Dressing  for  leather,  228. 
Dressing  skins  for  market,  272. 

"  Home  use,  276. 
Dried  fish,  237. 
Dried  venison,  237. 
Drilling,  as  tent  material,  247. 
*'  Waterproof  preparation  for,  247. 


292 


INDEX. 


Drinking  cup,  portable,  231. 
Drying  skins,  272,  273,  276. 
Ducks,  various  species  of,  239. 

As  food,  239 

To  cook  deliciously,  233. 
Duck  Traps,  94,  95. 
"  Dug-Out,"  the,  hints  on,  226. 

Detailed  directions  for  making,  259. 


Eels,  oil  prepared  from,  151. 
Elk. — See  Moose. 
"  Ephraim." — See  Bear. 
Escaping  from  the  mosquitoes,  255. 
Exports  of  furs,  281,  285. 
Extemporized  frying  pan,  232. 

"Toaster,"  233. 
Extract  of  beef,  Liebig's,  236. 
Extravagance  in  fur  apparel,  279. 


False  bottom  traps,  127,  131,  133. 
Fashion  and  fur,  279,  283,  285. 
Feathered  Game,  Traps  for,  65. 
Felt,  use  of  rabbit-fur  in  making,  286. 
Fennel,  Oil  of,  used  in  trapping,  152. 
Fenugreek,   Oil  of,  used  in  trapping, 

152. 
Figure  Four  Snare,  6r. 
Figure  Four  Trap,  107. 

"  Used  with  Dead-Fall,  114. 
Finger,  as  a  weather  vane,  217. 
Fire,  to  build,  227. 
"  To  light  without  matches,  234. 
"  With  powder  and  cap,  234, 
"  Without  "  anything,"  235. 
Fire  arms,  227. 
*'  Oil  for,  227. 
Fire  bottle,  241. 

Fire  Hat  for  night  hunting,  218. 
Fire-proof  preparations  for  tents,  247. 
Fish,  to  bake,  232. 

To  dry,  237. 

To  fry,  233. 
Fisher  Marten. — 

How  to  trap  the  animal,  194. 

Its  nature  and  habits,  194. 

Its  common  mode  of  release  from  cap- 
ture,  144. 

Method  of  skinning,  195. 

Use  of  skin,  285. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Fish-hook,  trap  for  ducks,  95. 
Fishing,  hints  on,  239. 

At  night,  239. 


Through  the  ice,  240. 

Various  baits,  240. 

With  tip-ups  240. 

For  pickerel,  240. 
Fishing  tackle,  227,  240,  241. 
Fish  lantern,  241. 
Fish  Oil,  used  in  the  art  of  trapping,  151. 

How  obtained,  151. 
Fish,  scent  baits  for,  240. 

Spearing,  239. 
Fish  traps,  120,  241. 
Flat  bottomed  boats,  264,  267. 
Flat  bottomed  sled. — See  Toboggan 
Flat  stone,  as  a  frying  pan,  232. 
Flower,   converted  into  a  trap,  99. 
Fly,  black. — See  "  Punkey." 
Fly-paper,  to  make,  136. 
Fly  Tent,  the,  246. 
Fly  traps,  136. 
Food,  portable,  230. 
Food  and  Cooking  Utensils,  230. 
"  Fools'  Cap"  Trap  for  Crows,  96. 
Forks,  235- 

Fortunes  founded  on  peltrj-,  281. 
Fowling  Net,  the,  70. 
Fox.— 

Nature  and  habits  of,  154. 

Trapping  the,  154. 

Trapped  by  a  dead-fall,  iii,  113 

Varieties  of,  154. 

Directions  for  skinning,    158.  —  See 
also  Red  and  Silver  Fox. 
"  Fox  fire,"  used  in  capture  of  deer,  218. 
Fritters,  pork,  to  cook,  231. 
Fi-yirgpan,  231,  235. 

"  An  extemporized,  232. 
Fur  Market,  eccentricities  of,  283. 
Furs,  ancient  uses  of,  278. 

Annual  yield  throughout  the  world, 
281. 
Furs,  best  season  for,  147. 

"  Home,"  281. 

Sale  of,  by  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
28r. 

"  Shipping,"  281. 

Table  of  market  values,  282. 
Fur  skins,  to  cure  for  market,  272. 

To  tan,  276. 

Hints  on  selling  for  profit,  283. 

Various  uses  of,  285. 
Fur  Trade,  Observations  on,  278. 

Immensity  of,  281. 


Game,  protected  from  wolves,  237. 
Garotte  Trap,  114. 
Gloves  to  be  used  in  trapping,  149. 
Glutton. — See  Wolverine. 


INDEX. 


293 


Gnats,  230,  256. 

Painful  effects  of  their  bites,  256. 

Remedies  for  their  bites,  255. 

Driven  away  by  the  "  Smudge,"  230. 
Gnat,  black.-^See  "  Punkey." 
Goose  trap,  75. 
Gopher. — 

Nature  and  habits  of,  205. 

Trapping  the,  205. 

Traps  for,  119,  120,  140. 

Directions  for  skinning,  206. 
Grappling  iron,  the,  146. 
Grease  for  boots  and  shoes,  228. 
*'  Great  Bear  Tamer,"  the,  142. 
Grizzly  Bear. — 

Nature  and  habits  of,  169. 

Trapping  the,  169. 

Traps  for,  17,  142. 

Use  of  fur,  285. 
Ground  plan  of  trapping  lines,  228. 
Ground,  selection  for  trapping,  225. 
Ground  Snares,  44. 
Grouse,  as  food,  233,  238. 

Bait  for,  42. 

Oil  of,  for  fire  arms,  227. 

Peculiarities  of,  42. 

Snares  for,  39. 

To  cook  deliciously,  233. 

Various  species  of,  238. 
Gun  Trap,  20. 


H 

Hair  Nooses,  41. 

Half  tent,  246. 

Hammocks,  250. 

Hammock  bed,  249, 

Handling  steel  traps,  caution  in,  149. 

Hanging  bed,  249, 

Hare.— See  Rabbit. 

Harpoon  Trap  of  Africa,  26. 

Hat  Brim,  portable,  258. 

Netting  attachment  for,  258. 
Hat  lantern  for  night  hunting,  2i8. 
Hawk  snare,  43. 
Hawk  Trap,  93. 

Head  lantern  used  in  deer  hunting,  218. 
Head  Net,  257. 
Hedge  Nooses,  41. 
Hemlock  bark  canoes,  264. 
Hemlock  boughs,  as  bedding,  250. 
Hemp,  used  in  caulking  boats,  261,  266. 
"Hiding"  steel  traps,  229. 
High  top  boots,  228. 
Hints  on  baiting  the  steel  trap,  143. 
Hints  on  selection  of  trapping  ground, 

225. 


Hints  on  skinning  animals,  272. 

Hints  on  trapping,  148. 

Hints  on  plans  of  trapping  lines,  228. 

Hints  on  sale  of  furs,  283. 

Hippopotamus  trap,  26. 

Historical  items  relating  to  furs  and  the 

fur  trade,  278. 
Hoe  cake,  to  cook,  232. 
Hogs  carried  off  by  bears,  170. 
Hog's  liver  used  as  fish  bait,  240. 
"  Home  Furs,"  281. 
Home-Made  Boat,  264. 
Honey  as  bait„  19,  31,  170. 
Hook  trap  for  ducks,  95. 
Hopo,  African  trap,  34. 
Hoop  nooses,  40. 
Hoop  Stretcher  for  skins,  275. 
Horse  hair  nooses,  to  make,  41. 
Hot  drink  for  chills,  257. 
Household  Traps,  125. 
House  Tent,  247, 
How  to  select  a  steel  trap,  138. 
How  to  Trap,  153. 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  origin  of,  280. 

Sales  of,  281,  282. 
Humming  bird,  killed  by  concussion,  99, 

"  Snare,  99. 

"  Trap,  99. 

"  Various  modes  of  capture,  99. 
Hunting  the  deer,  217. 
Hunting  from  trees,  218. 
Hut,  Log.— See  Log  Shanty. 


Implements  required  on  a  trapping  cam- 

paign,  227. 
Improved  springle,  60. 
Indian  CANOE.-See  Birch  bark  canoe. 
Indian  meal,  as  food,  231. 
Indian  Sledge. —  See  Toboggan. 
Indian  Snow  Shoe,  268. 
India-rubber  blanket,  236. 

How  used,  250. 
Insect  Ointments,  2(;5. 
Insect  bites,  remedies  for,  255. 

"  Sores  resulting  from,  257. 
Insects,  to  drive  out  from  tent  or  shanty, 

230,  256. 
Intemperance,  257. 


Jack  knife,  a  valuable  tool,  227. 
I  Jar,  as  a  trap,  135. 


294 


INDEX. 


Tar,  air-tight,  foi  butter,  236. 

Jerked  Venison,"  237. 
John  Jacob  Astor,  and  the  fur  trade, 

2S1. 
Johnny  cake,  to  cook,  232. 


K 

Kettk,  camp,  235. 
Knapsack,  234. 

Directions  for  making,  236. 
Knife,  a  necessary  implement,  227. 
Knife,  the  combination  camp,  235. 
Knives,  table,  235. 


Lake  trout,  fishing  for,  240. 

To  cook  deliciousJy,  232. 
Lantern  for  the  head,  used  by  deer  hunt- 
ers, 218. 
Lantern  used  by  bird  catchers,  71 . 
Lantern  trap  for  fish,  241. 
Large  game,  traps  for,  17. 
Lavender,  used  in  the  art  of  trapping, 

152. 
Leather  preservative,  228. 
"  Le  Chat."— See  Lynx. 
Lemonade,  236. 
Lens,  to  light  fire  with,  234. 
Lever  for  setting  large  steel  traps,  142. 
Liebig's  extract  of  beef,  236. 
Light,  the  trapper's,  227. 
Light  for  the  head  in  night  hunting,  2i8. 
Light  home-made  boat,  264. 
Lime,  chloride  of,  as  a  disinfectant,  152. 
Liniment  for  wounds  and  bruises,  255. 

*'  Insect  bites,  255. 
Linseed  oil,  used  as  bird  lime,  98. 
Lion,  American. — See  Puma. 
List  of  Prices  of  American  Furs,  284. 
Liver,  as  fish  bait,  240. 
Log  Cabin.— See  Log  Shanty. 
Log  Canoe. — See  Dug-Out. 
Log  Coop  Trap,  33. 
Log  Shanty,  hints  on,  226,  229. 

Detailed  directions  for  building,  244. 

Site  for  building,  244,  287. 

To  clear  of  gnats  and  mosquitoes,  230. 
Lucifer  Matches. — See  Matches. 
"  Luxuries,"  234. 
Lynx,  the  Canadian,  164. 

Natural  characteristics  of,  164. 

Trapping  the,  164. 

Traps  for,  17,  20,  23,  29,  33,  35,  141. 


Lynx — 

Directions  foi  skinning,  166. 
Use  of  skin.  28s. 
Value  of  skin,  284. 

M 

Mackinaw  and  the  Fur  Trade,  281. 
Mallard  Duck  as  food,  239. 
"    to  Cook.— See  Duck. 
Market  Value  of  Fur  Skins,  281. 
Marmot. — See  Woodchuck. 
Marten  : — 

Nature  and  habits  of,  192. 

Trapping  the,  192. 

Its  common  mode  of  escape,  144. 

Directions  for  removing  skin,  194. 

How  to  tan  the  Skin,  277. 

Value  and  use  of  skin,  284,  285. 
Mastic  Varnish  used  in  water-proofing,  234 
Matches,  227. 

Bottle  used  for  carrying,  234. 

To  render  water-proof,  234. 
Meal,  Indian,  as  food,  231. 
Meat,  to  dry,  237. 

'•  Medicines,"  or  Scent  Baits,  149. 
Menagerie  Whistle,  74. 
Merganser,  the,  as  food,  239. 

To  cook. — See  Duck. 
Midgets,  256. 

Painful  effect  of  their  bites,  256. 

Driven  away  by  the  "  Smudge,"  230^ 

Ointments  for  bites,  255. 

Serious  effects  of  bites  on  the  intem- 
perate, 257. 
Mink  : — 

Nature  and  habits  of,  189. 

Trapping  the,  189. 

Traps  for,  43,  i4i' 

Its  common  mode  of  escape  from  the 
steel  trap,  144-. 

Directions  for  skinning,  191. 

To  tan  skin  of,  277. 

Extensive  use  of  skins  m  America, 
281. 

Uses  of  skin,  285. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Miscellaneous  hints  on  trapping,  148. 
Miscellany,  the  Trapper's,  255. 
Miscellaneous  Traps,  103. 
Mole,  207. 

Beauty  of  fur,  209,  211. 

Life  and  habits  of,  207. 

Trapping  the,  119.  210. 

Traps  for,  119,  120,  140. 

Varieties  of,  211. 

Directions  for  skinning.^See  Gopher. 

Use  of  fur,  286. 


295 


Montreal  and  the  Fur  Trade,  281. 
Moose  : — 

Nature  and  habits  cf,  21c. 
Trapping  the,  220. 
"Yards,"  220. 
Flesh  as  food,  220,  223,  238. 
How  to  skin  the  animal,  220. 
Moose  meat,  to  roast,  233. 

"  Meat  to  dry,  237. 
Mosquitoes,  230. 

Painful  effects  of  their  bites,  257. 
Ointments  for  bites,  255. 
Driven  away  by  the  **  Smudge,"  230. 
Adirondack  experiences  with,    255, 

256. 
Head-net,  257. 

Serious  effects  of  bites  on  the  intem- 
perate, 257. 
Mouse  Traps,  124,  130,  1311  i34«  i35- 
Mud  Stick  or  Pusher,  267. 
Mush,  to  boil,  232. 

to  fry,  232. 
Musk: — 

Its  use  in  the  art  of  trapping,  151. 
How  obtained,  151. 
Muskrat:— 

Nature  and  habits  of,  182. 

Pit-fall  Trap  for,  133. 

Spearing  the,  183. 

Trapping  the,  182. 

Traps  for,  43,  107,  no,  in,  ii4»  i33f 

141. 
Its  common  mode  of  release,  144. 
Extensive  use  of  skins  in  America, 

281. 

Skin,  to  remove,  185. 

To  tan.  277. 

Use  of,  286. 

Value  of,  284. 

Muscovy  Duck  as  food,  239. 

To  cook. — See  Duck. 
Musquaw. — See  Bear. 


N 

Natural  Advantages  utilized  by  the  Trap- 

per,  149. 
Natural  History. 

Necessity  of  its  study  in  the  art  of 
Trappmp,  148. 
Neatsfoot  Oil  for  Fire  Arms,  227. 
Net: — 
"     r>at  fow'inGT,  70. 
"    Bird  catching,  70. 
'•    Clap,  72. 
"     Decoy,  72. 
"    Fish,  use  of,  241. 
20 


Net  for  the  head,  257. 

"  Fowling,  70. 
Net  traps,  70v73,  75i  80,  83,  85. 

For  Tiger,  Puma,  or  Wild  Cat, 

35- 
Spring,  80. 
The  upright,  85. 
Wild  Duck,  94. 
Wild  Goose,  75. 
Netting  attachment  for  Hat  brim,  258. 
Newhouse  Trap,  the,  138. 
Night-hunting,  217,  218. 
Night-fishing,  239. 
Nooses : — 

Horse  hair,  41, 
In  hedge,  42. 
On  hoops,  40. 
On  string,  40. 
Noose  Traps,  39. 
Nooses,  wire,  41. 
Northwest  Fur  Company,  280. 
Nutting  in  Mid-winter,  212. 


O 

Oar-locks,  simple,  266. 
Oat-meal  as  food,  236. 
Observations  ON  the  History  of  Furs 

AND  THE  Fur  Trade,  278. 
Oil,  Fish.— 

Used  in  trapping,  151. 

How  obtained,  151. 
Oil  of  Amber. — 

Used  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 
Oil  of  Ambergris. — 

Used  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 
Oil  of  Anise  : — 

Its  use  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 
Oil  of  Cinnamon  : — 

Its  use  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 
Oil  of  Fennel  :— 

Its  use  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 
Oil  cf  Fenugreek  : — 

Its  use  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 
Oil  of  Lavender  :— 

Its  use  in  the  art  of  trapping,  152. 
Oil  of  Rhodium  : — 

Its  use  by  trappers,  151. 
Oil  of  Skunk  :— 

Its  use  by  trappers,  151, 
Oil  :— 

For  fire  arms,  227. 

For  light,  227.  > 

Oil  of  Partridge  : — 

Its  use,  227. 
Oil  of  Pennyroyal  : — 

For  insect  bites,  255. 


296 


INDEX. 


Ointment  for  Bruises  and  Wounds,  255. 
Ointment  for  Insect  Bites,  255. 
Old-fashioned  Springle,  58. 
Olive  Oil  in  cooking,  236. 
Opossum,  201. 

Nature  and  habits  of,  202 

Trapping  the,  201. 

Hunting  the,  202. 

Directions  for  skinning,       j 

Uses  of  skin,  286. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Otter :— 

Nature  and  habits  cf, 

Trapping  the,  186. 

Directions  for  skinning,  189. 

How  to  tan  the  skin,  277. 

Use  cf  skin,  286. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Owl  Trap,  88. 
Owl  :— 

Used  in  connection  with  bird  lime  as 
decoy,  98. 


Paint  as  a  water-proof  covering,  236. 
Painter,  the. — See  Puma. 
Panther,  the. — See  Puma.  I 

Paper  Cone  used  as  a  trap,  96. 
Partridge,  42,  238. 

As  food,  238. 

Fat  for  lire  arms,  227. 

Snares,  30,  etc. 

To  cook  deliciously,  233. 
Pekry  :— 

Fortunes  founded  on,  281. 

Cities  built  un  on,  281. 
Pendent  Box,  Bird  Trap,  91. 
Pennyroval  for  insect  bites,  255. 
Pepper  Tea  as  a  remedy,  257. 
Percussion  Cap  used  in  lighting  fire,  234. 
Peshoo,  the. — See  Lynx. 
Phosphorescent  wood  used  in  night-hunt- 
ing, 218. 
Phosphorus  lantern  for  catching  fish,  241. 
Pickerel  fishing,  240. 
"  Soearing,  241. 
"  Trap  for,  121. 
"  To  cook,  233. 
Pigeon  Net-tran,  72. 
Pigs  carried  off  by  Bears,  17:). 
Pine  Log  Canoe. — S*"e  Dug-out. 
Pinnated  Grouse,  238. 
Pitch  for  stopping  leaks,  261,  264,  266. 
Pit-fall  Traps. — 

For  large  game,  31. 

For  small  game,  125,  127,  131. 

Barrel,  127. 

Box,  131. 

For  Muskrat,  133. 


Plan  of  Trapping  Campaign,  225. 
Plates,  substitutes  f9r,  232,  235. 
Platform  snare,  61. 
Poachers,  or  trap  robbers,  229. 
Poacher's  Snare,  48. 
Pocket  compass,  227. 
Pocket  Hat  Brim,  258. 

"  Sun-glass,  234. 
Poisoned  arrows,  26. 
Poisoning,  222. 
Pop-corn  as  bait  for  Quail,  54. 
Portable  boats,  259. 

Portable  food  &  cooking  utensils,  230,  235. 
Portable  drinking  cup,  231. 

Hat  brim,  258. 
"   With  netting  attached,  2  58. 

Snares,  50,  52. 

Stove,  228,  235. 
Pork  as  food,  231. 
"   Fritters,  251. 
"        "  To  make,  232. 
"  Possum." — See  Opossum. 
Potatoes  as  food,  235. 
Pouched  Rat.— See  Gopher. 
Powder  used  in  lighting  fire,  234. 
Prairie  Hen,  238. 
Prairie  Whistle,  74 

Precautions  in  handling  steel  traps,  156. 
Preface,  3. 

Preparation  of  skins  for  market,  272. 
Preserve  jar  used  as  trap,  135. 
Price  Current  of  American  Furs,  284. 
Prime  fur,  best  season  for,  147. 
Prof.  Blot  outdone  in  cooking,  232. 
Profit  in  selling  furs,  233. 
Pronghorn  Antelope,  221. 

Nature  and  habits  of,  221. 

How  hunted  and  trapperl,  221,  238- 
Provisions,  to  protect  from  Wolves,  237. 
Ptarmigan,  to  cook,  233. 

Trap  for,  75, 

How  hunted  and  trapi>ed,  239. 

Various  species  of,  230. 
Puma : — 

Bait  for,  20,  3i».32,  163. 

Nature  and  habits  of,  161. 

Peculiarities  of,  20. 

Traps  for,  17,  20,  23,  29,  3'>  33)  M^* 

Trapping  the,  16  r. 

Directions  for  skinning,  164- 

Use  of  skin,  286. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Pumice  Stone,  used  in  finishing  skins,  276- 

"  PUNKEV."  — 

Description  of  the  Insect,  256. 
Severity  of  bites,  256. 
Ointment  for  bites,  255. 
Serious  effects  of  bites  on  the  intem- 
perate, 257. 


INDEX. 


297 


Punk  Tinder,  used  in  lighting  fire,  234. 
"  Pusher." — See  Mud  stick. 
Putty,  for  stopping  leaks,  261. 


Q 


Quail,  bait  for,  40,  54. 
"   Snares,  39,  40,  41,  etc. 
To  cook  deliciously,  233. 
Quotations  of  the  Fur  Market,  284. 


R 


Rabbit: — 

As  food,  238. 

Bait  for,  203. 

How  to  skin,  204. 

Nature  and  habits  of,  203. 

Salt  as  bait  for,  109. 

Traps  for,  43,  64,  103. 

Use  of  fur,  286. 

Value  of  fur,  284. 

Varieties  cf,  203. 
Raccoon  :— 

As  a  pet,  173. 

Nature  and  habits  cf,  172. 

Trapping  the,  172. 

Traps  for,  no,  116,  141. 

Hunting  the,  172. 

Directions  for  skinning^,  175. 

How  to  tan  the  skin,  277. 

Use  of  the  fur,  285. 

Value  of  the  fur,  284. 
Rat  :— 

Snares  for,  43. 

Trapping  the,  125. 

Traps  for,  43,  lis?  127,  128,  131,  13 
Ritions  for  a  Campaign,  230. 
Raw  Furs. — See  Furs. 
Recipe  for  insect  ointments,  255. 

Boot  grease,  228. 

For  cookin.g,  230. 

For  curing  skins,  272. 

For  tanning  skins,  276. 
Red  Fox.— See  Fox. 
Red  Fox.— 

Value  of  skin,  284. 

Use  of  skin,  285. 
Red  Pepper  Tea  as  a  remedy,  257. 
Red  Squirrel. — See  Squirrel. 
Remedies  for  insect  bites,  255. 

For  chills,  257. 
Rec^uisites  of  a  good  steel  trap,  138. 
'''     For  snaring,  39. 
"     For  a  good  trapping  ground,  225. 
"     For  a  trapping  campaign,  227. 


Revolver,  227. 

Reynard    outwitted    by  a  dead-fall,  in, 

113- 
Rhodium,  Oil  of: — 

Its  use  by  the  trapper,  151. 
Rice  as  food,  236. 
Rifle  and  Shot  Gun  combined,  227. 

Oil  for,  227. 
Rifle  Trap,  20. 
Roasting,  recipes  for,  233. 
Rocky  Mountain  Sheep. — See  Big  Horn. 
"  Roughing  it,"  230. 
Rubber  blanket,  236. 

How  used,  250. 
Ruffed  Grouse.— See  Partridge. 
Rum  on  a  trapping  campaign,  257. 


Sage  Cock,  the,  238. 

Sale  cf  furs  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, 282. 
Salmon,  spearinj',  239. 

"  Spear,  239. 
Salmon  Trout,  spearing,  239. 
Salmon,  to  cook  deliciously,  232. 
Salt  as  bait  for  Deer,  218. 

As  bait  for  Rabbit,  109. 
Salt  Lick,  the,  218. 

Sandpaper  used  in  softening  sHns,  276. 
Salt  Pork  as  feed..  231. 
Scent  Baitf,  149. 

"  Compound,  150,  153. 
Scented  baits  for  birds,  240. 
Scented  baits  for  fish,  240. 
Season  for  Deer  huntir.g,  218. 
Scow,  267. 

Season  for  trapping,  147. 
Selection  cf  trapping  ground,  225. 
Self-amputation    as  a    means  of  escape 

with  captured  animals,  144. 
Se;f-amputation,  to  prevent,  144,  145. 
Self-raising  flour,  235. 
Self-setting  Traps,  no,  125,  127,  131. 
Shanty: — 

Bark.— S«e  Bark  Shanty. 

"Home."— See  Log  Shanty. 

Log.— See  Log  Shanty- 
Sheeting  as  tent  material,  247. 

Watar-prorf,  preparation  for,  247. 
Shellac  Varnish  used  in  water-proofing, 

234. 
Shelter  : — The   trapper's  remarks  on, 

226. 
Shelter  tent,  247. 

Detailsof  construction,  242.    . 
Shingle  stretchers  for  skin?,  274. 


298 


INDEX. 


*' Shipping  furs,"  281. 

Shooting  and  Poisoning,  222. 

Shot-gan  Trap,  20. 

Shot-gun  combined  with  rifle,  267. 

Shoulder  basket,  234,  226. 

Sieve  Trap,  65. 

Silver  Fox,  154. 

Value  of  skin,  284,  285. 
Skinning  animals,  hints  on,  272. 
Skins : — 

Stretchers  for,  273. 

To  drj--,  272,  376. 

To  soften,  276,  277. 

To  tan,  276. 

Value  of,  2S4. 

Use  of,  285. 
Skunk,  195. 

Adventure  with,  196, 

As  food,  238- 

Nature  and  habits  of,  195. 

Trapping  the,  195. 

Traps  for,  43,  in,  114,  141. 

To  eradicate  odor  of,  152,  19S. 

Oil  of,  used  in  trapping,  151. 

Directions  for  skinning,  198. 

Use  of  skin,  286. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Sled,  Indian.— See  Toboggan. 
Sliding  Pole,  145. 
Slippery  Elm  used  for  bird-lime,  9S. 
*'  Small  Game  '^  as  food,  237. 
Smell,  acute  sense  of,  in  animals,  14S. 
Smoking  the  steel  trap,  128. 
Smouldering  birch  bark  to  drive  away  in- 
sects, 230. 
Smudge,  the,  230,  256. 
Snare. — 

Box,  55. 

Double  box,  56. 

Fig.  Four,  62. 

Hawk,  43. 

Hedge,  42. 

Hoop,  40. 

Humming-bird,  99. 

Knotted  string,  52,  53,  54. 

Pasteboard  box,  56. 

Platform,  61. 

Poacher's,  48. 

Portable,  48,  50,  52. 

Quail,  53. 

Rat,  43. 

"  Simplest,"  52. 

Springle,  58,  60. 

Stovepipe,  120. 

Tree,  42. 

Triangle,  42. 

Twitchun,  43. 

Wood  Chucic,  43, 
Snares,  or  Noose  Traps,  39. 


Snaring,  requisites  for,  39. 
Snow  Grouse,  the,  238. 
Snow-Shoes,  267. 
Snow-shoe  race,  267. 
Softening  skins,  276,  277. 
Sores  resulting  from  insect  bites,  257. 
Soups,  recipes  for,  236. 
Spearing  fish,  239,  241. 
Spearing  Muskrats,  183. 
Spider  for  cooking,  233. 
Spoons,  235. 
Spring-bed,  249. 
Springle,  58,  60. 
Spring-net  Traps,  80. 
Spring-pole,  the,  144. 
Spring,  to  temper,  84. 
Spruce  Bark  Canoes,  264. 
Spruce  boughs  as  bedding,  250. 
Spruce  Grouse,  23S. 
Squirrels,  211. 
As  food,  238. 
Nature  and  habits  ot,  211. 
Traps  for,  43,  103,  106,  107,  no,  116^ 

128,  140. 
Various  species  of,  213. 
To  cook,  233. 
Use  of  skins,  286. 
Steel  Traps,  137. 

Caution  in  handling,  149. 

Concealing  in  the  woods,  229. 

Various  modes  of  setting,  144. 

Requisite  number  for  a  campaign, 
227. 

To  set  for  rats,  128. 

To  select  judiciously,  138. 

Requisites  of,  138. 

Hints  on  baiting,  143. 
Steel  Tran  sprinr,  to  set  with  lever,  142. 
Steel  Traps  and  the  Art  of  Trap- 
ping, 137. 
Still  hunting,  217. 
Stimulants,  257. 
Stone  Dead-fall,  29. 
Storing  traps  in  the  woods,  229, 
Stove,  portable,  228,  235. 
Stovepipe  fish-trap,  120. 
St.  Paul,  Minn.,  and  the  Fur  Trade,  2S1. 
Stretchers  for  Skins,  273- 
Strychnine  poisoning,  222. 
Sucker  wire  nooses,  41. 
Sugar  of  lead  used  in  water-proofing,  247. 
Sun-glas'?,  234,  235. 
Sweet  Cicely  as  bait  for  fish,  240. 
Sweet  Fennel. — 

Oil  used  in  trappint^,  152. 
Sweet  Oil  and  Tar  Ointment   for  insc:.! 

bites,  255. 
Swinging  bed,  249. 


INDEX. 


299 


Table  knifa  and  bowl  trap,  135. 

Table  showing  sale  of  turs  by  Hudson 

Bay  Company,  282. 
Tallow,  mutton,  as  ointment,  255. 
Tame  Geese  as  decoys,  75. 
Tanning  skins,  276. 

Mixtures,  276,  277,  278. 

With  the  hair  on,  27b. 

Simple,  278. 
Tar  and  Sweet  Oil  ointment  for  insect 

bites,  255. 
Tar  for  water-proofing,  264. 
Tea,  236. 

Red  pepper,  as  a  remedy,  257. 
Teai  Ducks  as  food,  239. 

To  cook. — See  Duck. 
"Telescope"  Drinking  Cup,  231. 
Temperiv;S  iron  spring,  84. 
Tents,  246. 

House-tent,  246. 

Fly-tent,  247. 

Half-tent,  247. 

Shelter-tent,  247. 

Material?,  247. 

Water-procf  preparation  for,  247. 

Fire-prccf  preparation  for,  247. 

To  carpet  with  spruce,  250. 

To  clear  of  grats    and  musquito^s, 

Tent  CARP'tT'^NT,  2t;o. 

Thimble  used  with  bowl  as  Mouse  trap, 

136. 
T^eer  captured  with  bird  lime,  35. 
'^'-'prtrar,  31- 
T'nder,  234- 
Tip-uns,  240. 

Toaster,  an  extP^rorizec'.  2'^t' 
ToROGGAN.  OR  Indtan  Si.edge,  26n. 
Tools  required  on  a  trapping  campaign, 

Too^«;  reou're.-l  10^  cnnof*  buiM'P"',  2?n. 
Torch  for  the  head,  used  in  night  himting, 

"  Tonr^-wood  "  used  in  lighting  fire,  234. 
Trai'.  The.— 

Tfs  vriltie  in  t^«  tr^pr'''-,  15"?. 

Various  modes  ci  making',  153. 
Trap.— 

Arrow,  2-»,  21;. 

■R^rreU  12c,  i?j. 

F?ird,  6?,  70,  jf.  75,  88,  go,  gr,  g'l. 

T?ow.  27,  25,  116. 

T?ow!,  135. 

^^^1  55»  S^>  88,  go,  gr,  103,   10^,  icK'f 
110. 


Brick,  66. 

Cage,  76,  134. 

Cob  house,  67. 

Coon,  no,  116,  141. 

Coop,  33,  67,  70. 

Crow,  gb. 

Deaa-fall,  17,  107,  iiie 

Decoy,  72,  7b,  94. 

Double  erder,  icg. 

Down-fall,  26. 

Duck,  g4,  gs- 

Fish,  120. 

Fish  hook,  gs. 

Fly,  136. 

Fool's-cap,  g6* 

Garotte,  114. 

Gun,  20. 

Harpoon,  26. 

Hawk,  42,  g3. 

Hook,  gs- 

Jar,  135- 

Mole,  iig,  120. 

Mouse,  130,  13 !»  »34>  '35' 

Net,  70,  73»  75>  80,  83,  85. 

Owl,  88. 

Partridge,  43,  etc. 

Pendent  Box,  gi. 

PltfalU  It,  125,  127,  131. 

Ptarmigan,  75. 

Quail,  3g,  40,  41,  53* 

Rabbit,  43>  64,  103. 

R-'^  43,  125,  127,  128,  13 r,  138. 

Rlflf',  20. 

S^if-settinj]',  no,  125,  127,  131. 

Siev-^,  65. 

Snring  net,  So,  Si,  85. 

Steel,  f.o. 

The  "■  Newhrusc,"  140. 

Treo,  42,  OT. 

U'-'nVht  ret,  Fs* 

Wild  Duck,  g4,  95. 

Wild  Grose.  75. 

Woodchuck,  4'. 
Trapper's  beds  ard  heddirr,  248. 
"     Cooking  utensils,  230. 
"     Diet,  270. 
TRAppER^s  Miscellany,  255, 
*'    Shelter,  226.  742. 
**    Sled.— See  Toboggan. 
Trapping,  art  of,  148. 

Season  for,  147. 

Miscellaneous  hints  on,  148. 

CamnaiqTj,  plan  of.  22«;. 

Too^s  and  other  reruisiles,  227. 
O'-ound,  selection  of,  22 ^. 

V^^nh'e  sucjp'estions  (»n,  c:8. 
Trnnpinor  Tiinc:-,  226 
Trap  robber?,  220. 
Traps  for  large  game,  17. 


300 


INDEX. 


For  Feathered  Game,  65. 

Household,  125. 
Tree  hunting,  218. 
Tree  snare,  42. 

"   Traps,  42,  91- 
Triangle  Snake,  42. 
Trout,  to  cook  dehciously,  232. 
Trumpet  Creeper  flower  used  as  a  trap, 

99. 
Tumbler  fly-trap.  136. 
Twitch-up,  43,  62. 

Poacher's,  48. 

Portable,  50. 

"  Simplest,"  520 


U 


Upright  Net  Trap,  85. 

"       Saares  44,  58. 
Use  and  abuse  of  Alcohol,  257. 
Uses  of  fur  skins,  285. 
Utensils  for  cooking,  230,  235. 

V 

Value  of  fur  sVin-.,  table  of,  262. 
Various  uses  cf  fur  skins,  285. 
Varnish  water-procf  preparation  for  pre- 
serving matches,  234. 
Vegetables  for  i^od  on  a  campaign,  23  5. 

"      Canned,  236. 
Venison  as  food,  233,  237. 

To  roast,  233, 

To  preserve,  237, 

"Jerked,"  237. 

Dried,  237. 


W 


Walking  on  the  snow,  267. 
War  in  the  fur  trade,  281. 
Watch  crystal  as  sun  glass,  287 
Water  fowl  as  food,  239. 
Water-proof   application  for    boats,  261, 
264,  266. 

"   Canvas  bags,  for  food,  236. 
Match  safe,  234. 

"    Preparation,  236,  247,  266. 

"   Varnish  for  matches,  234. 
Water  traps,  no,  120. 
Wedge  stretcher  for  skins,  274. 
Weighted  harpoon  trap,  26. 
Wheaten  grits  as  trappers'  food,  236. 
Wheat  flour  as  food,  235. 
"       Seli-raising,  235- 


Wheel  form  of  trapping  lines,  229. 
Whiskey  on  a  trappmg  campaign,  257. 
Whip  lashes  from  vVoodchuck  hide,  204. 
Whistlebird,  74. 
White  Birch  Canoe,  261. 
White-wood  log  for  Dug-out,  259. 
Widgeon,  the,  as  food,  239. 
To  cook.  —See  Duck. 
Wild  Cat  : — 

Nature  and  habits  cf,  167. 

Snares  for,  43. 

Trapping  the,  166. 

Skinning  the,  168. 

Uses  of  skin,  286. 

Value  cf  skin,  284. 
Wild  Duck,  to  cook.  233. 
Wild  Duck,  traps,  94,  95. 
Wild  Goose  as  food,  239. 
Wild  Goose  to  cook,  233. 
Wild  Goose  trap,  75. 
Wind,  direction  cf,  to  detect  by  the  finger 

217. 
Winged  verrr.u"',  255. 
Winter  fishing,  240. 
Wire  cage  trap  for  birds,  76. 

"        "       For  mice,  134' 
Wire  nooses,  41. 
Wolf.— 

Nature  and  habits  of,  158. 

Trapping  the,  158. 

Poisoning  the,  222. 

Traps  for,  20,  141. 

To  protect  provisions  frcm,  237. 

Varieties  cf,  158.^ 

Directions  for  skinning,  161. 

Use  of  skin,  286. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
Wolverine  : — 

Nature  and  habits  of,  199,  238. 

Trapping  the,  199. 

Natural  enemy  to  the  Beaver,  200. 

Directions  for  skinning,  201. 

Use  of  skin,  286. 

Value  of  skin,  284. 
WooDCHUCK,  204. 

As  food,  238. 

Nature  and  habits  cf,  204. 

Snare,  205. 

Trapping  the,  204. 

Use  of  skin,  204. 

Smoked  from  its  burrow,  205. 

Removing  skin  of,  205. 
Woodcock,  to  cook,  233. 
Wood  Duck  as  food,  230. 

To  cook.— See  Duck. 
Woodland  beds  and  bedding,  249* 
Wounds,  ointment  for,  255. 


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